A quick questio my car is idling eratic when y get about the 1500 rpm, sugestions will be appreciated

u have to be really carefully

 

A little more info please. What do you mean by idling "eratic?" Does this happen when the engine is cold, like starting up the car first thing in the morning? Does it occur when the engine is at operating temp? Do you feel a difference when driving at "about the 1500 rpm?"

 

Just bought a 02 Maxima SE 6 speed. Car ran perfect when I bought it. 1 day later it has a p0300, p1800, and later a p0430 popped up. A 5 minute drive to the convenience store......the car was bucking and hesitating after a slightly longer than usual crank to start. Came out after my quick stop and the car started perfect and ran fine. 2 days after purchase(yesterday) the car cranks but will not start!

Any ideas? My mechanic lives next door to me and seems to be on vacation(not home, cell goes to vm immediately). What could be stopping the car from firing up? Also she almost comes to life every 3-5 starting attempts. Any suggestions, insight, or help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Holy batsh*t batman, I think you may have been hosed. But here it goes anyway, by DTC:

IMHO, I would check P0300 first as this deals with primary engine functions and can cause the most damage in the immediate term if not corrected.

P0300 = Misfire in multiple. Please let me your CEL was NOT blinking…blinking CEL = BAD. This code could mean a number of things but the most common are the ignition coils, spark plugs, Mass Air Flow sensor and O2 sensors.

To check which cylinder is misfiring, start the car. To identify a suspect ignition coil, disconnect one ignition coil at a time to see if there is any noticeable change in the rpm.

If none, check each spark plug for fouling. And while you have the spark plug out, check the compression and write down you results: Standard is 1,275 kPa (13.0 kg/cm2, 185 psi). Minimum is 981 kPa (10.0 kg/cm2, 142 psi). The difference between each cylinder should be no more than 98 kPa (1.0 kg/cm2, 14 psi).

See if these work and post your progress on a new thread if it doesn’t.

As far as the other DTCs. P1800 generally means a malfundtion with your intake manifold air control solenoid (VIAS).

For an exploded view: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml?ref=esp-img

On the 2002-2003, the VIAS has its default position as open, but is closed from 1800-3600 rpm via vacuum and ECM control, so when any part of that mechanism is faulty, the valve remains open throughout the RPM band.

Vacuum Hose: I would first check if the the hose leading to the VIAS box is kinked or cracked.

Wiring: I would check the VIAS control solenoid valve to see if it is operating properly. if you have a multimeter, check the terminal with the yellow/green wire running from the solenoid to the terminal 27 of your ECM . When the engine is running between 1,800 and 3,600 you should get a voltage reading of 0 - 1.0Volts, if the engine is running above 3,600, the voltage reading should be that of your car battery voltage ~12V.

Wiring Harness: Check this by measuring the power supply to the solenoid. First, turn ingition to off. Second, disconnect the wiring harness attached to the VIAS control solenoid valve. Third, turn iginition on. Fourth, check the voltage of terminal 1 or the harness. It should be the same voltage as the car battery ~12V.

For P0430 = heated O2 sensor bank 2. This is the O2 sensor behind your catalytic converter. Solution? I'm thinking fixing P0300 will address this code. But if it doesn't, just replace the O2 sensor.

GL.

 

hi, i got one....

i have 00 se maxima....i can't seem to put more than a $.50 worth of gas in the tank before it starts to click like its full. I had the car for a few months now....its been doing it since i got it....
I tried repositioning the nozzle...putting gas really slow (sometimes that allows me to get a couple bucks in before it clicks off). I tried shooting air in the vent line to remove anything clogging it as suggested by a mechanic...that didn't work.

Please any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated....i can't take putting gas in my car anymore....it takes 20 minutes to fill up!!!!

 

Your problem may be something in the actual filler tube itself then. The vent tube is a separate tube and evidently that is clear. Visually inspect the filler tube, it's behind the rear wheel. Look for severe dents, it is a round tube with no kinks. If it looks good, get something flexible and CLEAN, like a small plumber's snake and see if that goes down the filler tube.

 

What size bulbs does the 00-01 cluster use? want to change them to L.E.D

 

What can take the place of these? Boxed in the picture

Or...Where can I get them?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

i still don't have a car, but i want to get one need guidance

 

What KIND of guidance? Do you have questions that are slightly more specific than "can anyone give me guidance?"

 

Having issues diagnosing problems with my auto 2000 GLE. After starting it with the engine cold, it will idle fine for about 15 seconds then the revs drop and it idles rough for about 8 seconds. If I try to drive the car during this period it struggles to move and sometimes even stalls out. After the rough idling period it will do a short rev and resume normal idle. Normal driving seems to be unaffected but during moderate to heavy acceleration the tranny will kickdown but the car seems to have little power. It's throwing the P0171 Bank 1 'System too Lean' code so I replaced the corresponding o2 sensor but there was no noticeable change. I also changed the fuel filter screen. I'm thinking the issue is fuel related but I am not familiar with these cars.

 

My guess is either MAF or IACV.

 

Yo yo! So listen I've looked through the forums regarding 05 maxima steerin wheel issues and have found none else who has this issue but one other person who pm'd me about it. My steerin wheel tilt and telescope work GREAT! Use to have a minor squeak a couple times but went away.. Now I'm having a problem where my steering wheel is locked Into place right where I want it but if I push up on the steering wheel or just push the top of the steering wheel to the windshield it moves up n down like its loose. Almost as if a screw is missing or the motor is going on it? Possibly a bad bearing in the steering column? I have no idea and I've looked n looked and looked but found no quick fixes or even what the problem is.. My 05 max is out of warranty a long time ago hence I have 95000 miles. Any advice, repair cost or input on my problem would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance fellow
Maxima brothas!

 

^^ Your wheel is motorized?

 

Interesting, but why don't you ask the folks in the 6th gen forum who have cars similiar to yours? Our 5th gen Maximas don't have motors in the steering columns.

 

I have a very similar issue at idle when I start my car cold. It will idle just fine for a short while, then the RPM's drop suddenly to around 1100 or so from around 1500. It will idle rough for a short while, then it will smooth out. I dont seem to have the little power you are describing, nor do I have the trouble code. I researched this on the forum quite a bit, and I feel fairly confident it is the upper intake manifold gasket that needs to be replaced.

 

I agree with dj, sounds like maf sensor related. But before u venture to change it make sure all around the maf sensor that everything is tight and theres no vacums. o2 sensor are not gonna make your car run rough and hesitate. Had a bad sensor for about 40k miles now

 

Im as intrigue as djfrestyl when u said motorized? But in case you made a mistake your sterring wheel tilt shouldnt have to do with your steering colum. There should be a pedal looking stick on either side of the steering wheel that locks the steering wheel in place where you want it. Make sure is on lock position. If it is and still moves up and down then rhat locking mechanism is failing. Best way to figure it out open it up see whats causing it

 

Actually O2 sensors that return false results to the ECU will cause the motor to run rough, loose power, fuel economy will drop. My dad's Accord is experiencing this right now, the O2 sensor is reporting a lean condition so the ECU is dumping more fuel and the car is running horribly!

 

Oh ok. I can only speak for 5th gen maximas since thats what i got. Mine never ran rough kust other issues and ecu would throw me o2 sensor code. In the end it wad maf sensor but since i never did change (well did but a autozone bosh sensor didnt work for me) now i gotta change my catt.

 

Hi friends,

This question is for the fellows who've done the Block off Plate mod. Firstly, i want to give cred. to Aaron for an awesome product.

Secondly, so, the Instructions are very clear. Very easy to follow. The tools I have at my disposal however are total junk. Is there a preferred tool to loosen/remove the (3)12MM bolts on the OEM VIAS? I have a socket wrench, but it isn't helping. I don't want to slam it because i'll end up breaking something. The bolts are on too tight,and hand-force alone doesn't seem to be helping.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hey, my sister has a '00 Maxima SE, that I loved since she got it a year ago, and always wanted, but shes looking for a new car and I plan on buying hers for a small amount, maybe around $500. I love this maxima so much,but it has a FEW negatives. As of now it has 158k, it needs a catalytic converter and probably gonna need a seafoam cleanout because she would constantly ride on a quarter tank or below E . The front bumper needs a few clips because of some road debris smacking the bumper, also I have to thoroughly clean the interior, but thats the least of the problem. The check engine light is on im assuming because of the converter and keeps getting codes about a vacuum line or so and sometimes putters at startup, I think its all related, but im 18 and in college part time and could work enough to get these all fixed eventually. I love this Maxima so much even with all these problems, but am I in way over my head ? Im coming from a rusting '00 Ford Taurus with a torque converter thats waiting to give out . ANY input would be greatly appreciated. Thank You !

 

Mr wilson 44 post more info plz. Which codes are you getting? I to been needing a cat converter for a long time now but has given me no problems like what u mentiones. Also it could be a o2 sensor or maf sensor on the sputter when cold. However for the price sounds like a good deal. I got 190k on my 01 and still runs like new. Still post more info about the codes and symptoms

 

Sup dudes. I have just bought a 2002 SE 6sp MT Anni Edition (3.5L V6, chrome, leather, loaded) and I am in love.

Just got a couple noob questions so bare with me.. I bought the car used with a Stillen Hi flow Intake system. The cone type filter on the end of the pipe .. is that the only air filter I need to clean? Or is there something else further back I need to clean as well? Just wanted to clarify that. I can't quite get myself a definite answer. I'm pretty engine illiterate so I don't wanna go pulling things apart when I have no idea what I'm doing.

Now, as I understand it, my car contains the vq35de engine? Correct me if I'm wrong please .. but I'm hoping that's indeed the case because I also hear that's a particularly sweet engine.

Regardless, the car feels awesome, and come next summer I want to mod it up and make it into a super sleeper. I want to put a turbo system in it, probably upgrade the exhaust system further and get her lowered and sitting right, new shoes, some stereo stuff .. do the damn thang basically .. I want to shoot for 400+ whp and will be doing little, if any of the work myself. Just going to pay somebody, but I figure I should probably get an understanding of what I'm doing and why, and possibly form a better game plan through better understanding.

Basically .. I just want her to be fast as f***.

So, I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or insight for a guy who wants to turbo his maxima but knows nothing beyond the most basic of basic engine principles and will be paying other people to do the work. I know through my research thus far that turbo systems will require intense calibration, and I will have to add sensors/gauges to my dash .. I'll have to replace other parts of the engine to keep up with the new power .. no problem .. I won't be setting it all up and making it all work .. but I want to understand what that will mean for me as a driver? Will I have to be adjusting or monitoring things digitally all the time? Why would I want to adjust my boost? And anything else I should know about putting turbo in my car ..

I like how turbo sounds, and SCing seems to produce same kind of power increases, but is there any reason I might want to supercharge instead if it's all gonna be professionally installed?

Next, the car has 181k on it. I've been hearing that vq35de engines are a cheap swap .. like a few hundred, even .. is that right? So if my car is indeed holding a vq35de, might it be a good idea to swap a younger engine in there if I'm going to be spending all this money anyway, and the swap is so cheap?

This is my general direction for my 5.5 gen .. I wanna be posting some drool worthy pics next summer, so let's do this .. if you guys can offer any insight you think may help an engine illiterate noob looking to turn his maxima into a rocket, I'm all ears.

Like I said .. I just want her to be fast. Fast as f***. So am I on the right track?

I'll let you guys pick away at that.

Appreciate any advice.

I'll be back soon.

 

Hey guys anyone know why this is happening? This only happens after a cold start and for a few minutes. I only noticed it yesterday.

You can see the video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFwbAgWQRa0

 

Oh look, new car ambition. Never seen that before.

Srsly though, you lost me at '2002 Anni Edition'

 

Ever had your coolant flushed? How are your coolant levels in your reserve tank and radiator?

Does this occur at cold start? Warm start? Already warmed up?

Does your heater blow hot air properly? Do your fans turn on when the engine is hot?

NEED MOAR INFO.

 

Im new here and have a tire ?....Will 225/45/17 or225/55/17 fit on my 2000 max that came with 225/50/17.. have been givin a set of each and what to know if eairther set will rub

 

looks like temp sending unit my be failing or maybe bad ground

 

Are you lowered? 55 might rub since it's bigger, but 45 won't since it's smaller.

Either way, your speedo will be off slightly.

Use this VERY useful tool to understand how:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

 

ty for reply man no the car is stock

 

I don't know much but it sounds like you have a HUGE lack of knowledge. I wouldn't suggest going into forced induction until you've educated yourself more about it. Check out the forced induction section and see what people got....Maybe start with some beast bolt-ons? Assuming you have the money to boost..

 

Not only the money for the initial boost, but all the ancillary money needed to keep it going. Stuff breaks.

 

So the tires will fit. All you're doing is increasing/decreasing the sidewall.

But as mentioned, your speedometer will be slightly off.

I recommend you learn how tire sizing works. Understanding the dynamics of the numbers and how they relate will help in the future.

 

Too many dreamers on here...

 

No harm in dreaming.

But this is classic 'new car ambition.' Reality will set in soon.

 

I've only seen it happen this one time. I did another cold start today and it didn't do it. I have a remote starter installed so in the morning I usually start it while im walking downstairs and just get in to the car and go. But this time I manually started it and noticed this fluctuation.

Once I started moving it didn't do it any more. I got the car 3 weeks ago I haven't looked into the coolant, will be doing it tonight when I go to look at the rear brakes (when turning left I hear a grinding noise). Only fluid change I did was oil change, transmission fluid change and power steering fluid change.

 

ok got a quick question, will a 00-01 automatic gauge cluster work in a manual 00-01 maxima? reason i ask is, its hard to find a manual gauge cluster.

 

Okay fellas I really need your help.

Got a 2002 maxima se, 90k miles, owned since new, Never modified, has been running like a champ, never had a problem untill today. I go out to start it and it wont start. It cranks fine but won't start. I tried jumping it, didnt work, it cranks fine but just doesnt start like its not getting fuel. It has 1/4 tank and i can hear the fuel pump priming when i turn the key.

So i google search it and come up with someone who had the same prob. and mechanic recommended replacing the cam position sensor?

Before I spend $$, I wanted to know if there's anything I should try first? Is this a common problem? Will it work? I need to fix this car asap!

Thanks in advance.

 

I also have a 02 se with twice the mile(179K) with the same exact scenario down to the 1/4 tank lol! I was told by a former Nissan tech to start by removing the airbox and checking the ground wire attached to the transmission. If it's badly corroded or damaged this could be our issue.

A possible side effect of this simple issue is it could fry your ignition coils and/or the ECM. I'm going to remove my airbox this weekend and keep my fingers crossed.

By the way this was 2 days into ownership......