Rydicule

I've hit my rev limiter at 2500 RPM I have no idea what happened, was just driving home from the store about a month ago and when I started the car, I took off and the every time the tach got up to 2500, the car started jerking and the tach dropped and shot back up, as if I was pumping the gas. I would shift up and then it would be fine, until I got up to 2500 again. I got it into sixth where I could safely do 40mph at under 2k, and then I got to a stop light and turned the car off. Started it up a few seconds later, and it was fine. Was cautious for a couple of days but now I drive like normal, no problems since. Maybe I should be worried...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Sounds like you have a MAF problem.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=70
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....27#post2671827

clborden

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure this is a n00b question, but where would I find the regional forums? -THANX

clborden

iTrader: (2)

I was right! Very n00b question. I just found them. Thanks.

Canepole

Any1 know where I can find a cheap tire iron. The dealship is asking a pretty penny for cheap hunk of steel?


Also Is any1 good at recalabrating a speedometer, I'm close but it's still 5mph off.

ricodemus

I ended up buying a universal at walmart becasue the dealer didnt give me mine


Intro- whats up guys I'm Rick. I have had a 5spd 20th AE in grey for about about a year now. I'm a honda enthusiast who bought the max as my DD because I like the look of the AE, 4 doors, and theoretical reliability with decent power. I've been reading on here for a while, but I never really post.

My questions:

1) I recently cracked my rear lip. A new one at the dealer is 450+ paint with a discount! I was interested in an aftermarket replacement but I found that none of them fit with my AE mudflaps. any suggestions? should I scrap the mudflaps and keep the rest of AE kit (will it look like it matches)?

2) My fog light burnt out. I can't figure out how the hell to replace it - the manual I think said take it to the dealer - no thanks!

3) My car shakes and does not ride all that well from like 40-65mph. I've had the wheels balanced and it doesnt solve the problem. The car has ~100k on it. Are the struts bad or is there some other problenm that could cause this?

4) the car has nearly no power past 5k rpm. Did the 01's also have the VIAS problem that I've read about in the FAQ that seems to occur on the 00's? I don't drive it that hard, but if something is wrong I want to take care of it.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

There is a place you can send it for $50 and they'll recalibrate it perfectly.

As to tire iron..Wal Mart, any auto store. IMO you should buy a breaker bar, torque wrench, and correct size deep socket for the lug nuts.

Nobody should be putting wheels on without a torque wrench and correct settings....

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

can't help here, I know jack about kits, sorry

1. put car up on ramps or jack stands in front.
2. get under the car and remove splash guards underneath the burned out fog light. There is a screw on the side near the wheel, 2-3 small bolts toward the inside, and a couple of crappy plastic clips. Remove all these and pull down the splash guard below the light.
3. look up at bottom of fog light. you will see a screw/bolt facing down (philip's head). Unscrew.
4. Now, go to the front of the light and you should be able to wiggle it around until it pops out. Be careful, it will come out suddenly. There are 2 plastic clips holding it in there (I just broke them off since they annoy the hell out of me).
5. Open up assembly from the back of the light. Remove old bulb. Replece.
6. Install is reverse of removal.

If you are on all-original suspension parts with 100k miles, it is a good time to replace:
- struts (all)
- tie rod ends (2)
- front sway bar endlinks (2)

all of these are probably well past their service lives and should be replaced for the sake of safety, handling, and ride quality. All three will cause vibrations and ride quality issues.

yes, the VIAS issue is on all VQ30DE-K's...at 100K miles there is a very good chance yours is broken. It being broken won't hurt the car itself, it just hurts peak horsepower. If you don't drive hard or go high-rpms very often, it's almost not worth the trouble to fix it...

jtmoor002001

hey guys, the names Justin and i just got my first Max 2 weeks ago (02 SE) and love it maxima.org has definately been added to the sites i browse daily, spent the last few days just reading, time to start posting!


first things first im getting new wheels, found a pretty good deal on the g35 18's (400bucks for the set), ive read alot of ppl say the gap will look bad with new wheels at stock height. i dont wanna go very low, just want to make sure i get a good look with the new wheels. suggestions would be much appreciated cause i dont know much about suspensions

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

1. any larger-diameter wheel will make the wheel gap "look" bigger (even if it really isn't...it's a visual illusion)
2. regarding the G 18's, I'm quite partial to them, personally. READ: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=422495
3. If you want a subtle drop (not too low and still comfortable), I suggest H&R springs with Tokico Illumina or "Blue" struts. Do springs and struts at the same time. READ: http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/sp..._decision.html

as to other suspension stuff, read the stickies in here, and browse around the first few pages. There are tons of useful threads on suspension parts near the top all the time.

good luck.

jtmoor002001

yea, those g 18's look sweet and especially for the price.
thanks for the advice, its gonna be a fun project after i do some more how-to researching

400 a good deal for the wheels?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

yes, a very good deal. I paid quite a bit more for mine

raelity

Officially a newbie but have scoured your forums for over a year...
My 2000 is pinging (knocking). I used to have this problem years ago w a high compression Chevy, and even w high octane gas, proper timing was critical. If it was advanced too much, same exact sound, under similar conditions.

I have never used anything but good quality 93 Octane gas. I'm taking a step by step approach. 56k miles, today I replaced the plugs w stock Platinum NGK's. No luck. Runs great when engine cold (as always), but once it warms up and it's hot out too (80+), w light acceleration, the knock is still there. If you leave the same amount of pressure on the gas pedal, it will linger. If you let up or give it more gas the problem clears up temporarily.

I am confused. I have scoured through some VERY long threads hoping to get something solid but...

Some posts have said the alleged faulty ignition coils can do this but most posts on that talk about the issue being an engine "miss". I also see some posts about this being cleared up by the MAF being replaced, but most of those posts talk more about lack of power or serious flat spots in the power curve (above 4k rpm), not about knocking/pinging.

Where the heck is the "anti-knock sensor" that is supposed to retard timing to prevent knock, and is it possible it could go "bad"? It is so noticeable it seems like something went bad (but also odd because otherwise it runs great)!

Has anyone gone step by step and found SOMETHING that for sure licked this?

ricodemus

So of course a day after I'm checking out the forums and asking questions, my maxima acts up on the drive in to work today. It's hard to describe, but accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear from like 2-3k rpm caused this noise that kind of sounded like a flat tire (like an intermittent whirring), but it came from under the hood. I could feel it in the accelerator. it was weird because it had a frequency. I also have a weird creak coming from the brakes that is of a similar frequency when I'm braking lightly. I dont know if they're related. Anyone got a clue?

99blackmagic

ok i searched, browsed and still couldn't find anything related to this topic.

on my dash console, not the gauges, but the heater controls (i have the automatic controls 2000 GLE) i have some lights out.

is there a writeup or is it straight forward to replace these? my dealer quoted me about $300 to remove the dash and claims it's labor intensive.

any help to offer?

IloveVQ

iTrader: (1)

Hi I was wondering first what companys make a y pipe for an 02 max. second what type of whp gains im looking at. and third if it is worth spending the extra to get the stainless vs. the alluminized. if anyone can answer any or all of these that would be extremely helpful. thanks

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=484202

beancooker

Ok, put on a Y-pipe last week and feels like I lost bottem end power. Dabbled in a$$hattery, and removed a 2 foot section of my WAI, now it's a short ram intake. It feels like I gained back some of the lost power. does this seem normal, or was it the 2 beers making me think I gained power?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

What 2' section did you remove?

Unless you get a dyno, we cannot tell for sure.

99blackmagic

bump, no one has dash lights?!

MaxDallas

I am not sure if this is the right thread to post my question or not.
But i couldnt find any other place to ask this question.
I would appreciate if anyone of you could please help me understand how to get access to new threads.

I am new to this forums and anytime i try to post a new question by starting a new thread i get a message saying that i do not have permissions to start new thread.
Below is the message i get
"Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation"

Can anyone please tell what should i be doing to get privileges to start a new thread to ask any question related to my 2002 nissan maxima gle.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

if you have auto climate control, here's what you do:

1. remove upper vent assembly
2. remove shifter surround
3. unscrew the frame that holds the radio and climate control - 2 screws up top, 2 underneath (back behind the ashtray area)
4. pull entire assembly out, unplugging all wiring
5. unscrew side frame screws for climate control unit. These are VERY difficult to get unscrewed - make SURE you use a large philips-head...not a normal one, or you will strip them.
6. remove climate control assembly
7. Take all the little screws out that hold the climate control together
8. Thereare also littel tabs that hold it together.
9. Take climate control faceplate section off the body
10. you will see little blue bulb holdrs with tiny bulbs in them. They screw out, basically (BE CAREFUL!) You can order them from the dealer for a couple bucks - these are NOT sold at car-parts stores or anything, note.


This how-to is pretty basic. You need to closely observe what you are doing and LOOK at everything as you take it apart...it's pretty common-sense the way it comes apart, so DO NOT try to force it...be patient. Do it on a table in a well-lit room and take your time.

This probably WILL take you at least 3 hours - though it's a joke that Nissan will charge that much - I can do this whole process in under an hour (apart and back installed) having done it several times already. But the first time it's pretty time-consuming.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

To reduce spamming, it is required to have 15 or 20 (don't recall which) posts before you can start your own thread. Just spend some time browsing around threds and make some comments, discussion, etc.....make sure you comments are useful or "real' otherwise you'll get banned for post-whoring.

A good place to do this is in the "members rides" or "other cars" sections....Just go into people's threads about their cars and post things like "I really like your wheels, where did you get them?" or "What kind of exhaust setup is that?"

once you get to 20, post your own thread. But make sure it's not a stupid question that has been asked 100x before. Use the search feature (see stickies on how to do a "google" search on maxima.org - the search here isonly for donating members.

beancooker

The peice between the MAF and the filter. The filter now connects 4" in front of the MAF. I thought I read somewhere that a short ram would not kill your bottem end the way a WAI (Injen) would.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I think that piece is more like 9" or so, not 2 feet

beancooker

Long side, outside of 90* bend is 20". Short side inside of 90* bend is 16". But none the less can anyone answer the original question?

99blackmagic

thanks very much. i will let you know if i give it a go, or get a flashlight

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

if we have a meet at some point, I'm sure one of the locals can show you. Several of us have taken it apart before...

clborden

iTrader: (2)

Quick question. - My first mistake was buying mine with an automatic. I didnt think there would be that big of a performance gap between this and a t5. However, it is what it is. I need to know, should I do the VB mod and find a decent torque converter? Or would you recommend a t5 swap. The t5 swap is just so friggin involved and time consuming, so I would have to get it done, but that is so friggin expensive ( I was quoted 3500.00 installed). Oh, my second mistake was buying an injen. Obviously before I found the org..

Gemini67

Hey RICK, try this site.. the parts are unpainted, so after paint it may cost you the same.

http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/cgi-...l?img_num=1631

Sam524

hey guys. the lights on the shifter never turn on when i turn my lights on. i always have to hit the side of it for them to turn on. i tried getting to the connector to see if it wasn't connected all the way by moving the grey piece where it has the park, revers, neat, etc. it came up some, but won't move anymore because it's connected to the white people that connects the wires for the lighting. i can't even get it back on. anyone know how to remove it and/or put it back on right?

clborden

iTrader: (2)

......BUMP.....PLEASE

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Do whatever floats your boat and whatver you can afford.

PitchBlackMax

Hey everyone, I have a couple of questions that I would really appreciate some help on, regarding my 2000 Max 5 spd 3.0.

1. After smelling a musty odor from my vents, I ripped off the glove box and looked behind to find a place where it looks like an in-cabin air filter goes with none in there. But I cannot find one made for the car at any local auto stores. Is there one available for the 2000 Max, and if so, where do I get it? Or, can a retorfit one from another make / model in the slot?

2. I have searched for a thread on this, but I cant find it - someone hit my rear bumper, and now I have to put a new one on. Is there a thread where I might find instructions on how to take off my rear bumper cover? I have a painted new bumper taking up space in my living room, and I figure its smarter to look at something then just blindly rip it off, and try to put another one on.

3. Manual shift **** - How do I get this off? Does it twist off? I always feel like I am breaking it when I try to twist it. Or does it pull off, or is there a screw somewhere I am not seeing?

4 . Do the passenger side window switches malfunction for this year? they dont work for the passenger, but they work from the driver side master control panel. I just want to know if anyone had any suggestions before I give Nissan the $125 they want for a new switch assembly.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Most 2000s didn't come with the filter element for some reason (it was an "option"), but you can get them from the Nissan dealer.

can't help you there, but there should be fasteners in the wheel wells and under the bumper. Just look around and you should find them.

twist counter-clockwise. It's pretty hard the first time (use vise-grip pliars wrapped around a rag) but it will come off with enough force.

that's not a usual problem, but just pick up a used one for a couple bucks from a junkyard. Check www.car-part.com

gephelps

I have never done it. I will add though, as much as I have ever seen a question similiar to this the general response is to sell your vehicle and buy one that had a manual to begin with.

It can be done, and on almost every 4wd board the similiar question comes up if someone can convert 2wd to 4wd. Either case is possible, but most likely not worth the time and money to do it.

gephelps

Are you sure the driver lockout isn't switched?

If it still won't work pop the door panel and check for power. If that is ok then with the window half way I would jump it for a sec to see if the circuit completes without the switch.

Succinct

First, I want to thank irish44j for all of the time spent answering our noobie Q's! Thanks!

My first post was about 3 weeks ago (page 3 of this thread), when I was shopping for a replacement for my beloved-but-unreliable-and-expensive 540 6-speed. This week I finally found what I was seeking - a 2003 SE 6-speed with the "limited" (leather,etc) package, with JUST the ext/int colors I was seeking, at a fair price. My Q's:

1) I don't know whether it has LSD, but figure it has everything else, so it's probable. How can I tell for sure without the original window sticker?

2) The car has what seems like a rear tire imbalance and noisy rear tires. The front/steering is rock-steady. The tires are new Hankook Ventus HR2's. I figure it's probably the cheap tires creating all of the "ruckus". Any other theories?

3) The lower part of the center of the rear cross-member looks damaged, as if run up on a curb at some point. Is this common? How hard to fix?

I'm sure I'll have more Q's but for now will absorb all I can from the FAQs. This is my first Maxima!! (I've been a Honda guy, but nowadays that means Slushbox City, not for me)

gephelps

If you don't trust the drilled aluminum pedals then what you need to do is pop the hood and observe the tranny code stamped on the aluminum plate which is riveted to the firewall. The same plate that shows the VIN, the engine code (VQ35DE) will show the trans code. Nissan names their gearboxes almost the same way that they name their engines. The code for the HLSD equiped 6 speed is RS6F51H. The 'H' suffix denotes the Helical device. The 6F I believe denotes 6 forward gears. Other suffixes I know of include 'A' and 'V'. My '98 Maxima had RS5F50A. The 'A' meant the car had a regular diff. But my old SE-R has RS5F32V and of course the 'V' represented the viscous coupling limited slip diff. Perhaps someone could confirm for us that their non helical equiped transmission is coded RS6F51A.

Ripped from http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=hlsd

Succinct

Actually, I didn't know about the drilled aluminum pedals clue. The car I am buying has those, and I'll check the code after I pick it up Saturday (I can't WAIT!!)

Ask me almost anything about a BMW 540 or any Honda and I can help, but I have a LONG way to go in learning about Maximas. Thanks for the help!