5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
what's up guys I have stock HIDS on my car and i need to change the driver side one because of the ballast, it's not working no more I got a whole new set but the connection does not match they told me I have to rewire it because of the difference between stock and aftermarket HIDS and I'm also looking for a front lip 2002-2003 ! please help me
what's up guys I have stock HIDS on my car and i need to change the driver side one because of the ballast, it's not working no more I got a whole new set but the connection does not match they told me I have to rewire it because of the difference between stock and aftermarket HIDS and I'm also looking for a front lip 2002-2003 ! please help me
what's up guys I have stock HIDS on my car and i need to change the driver side one because of the ballast, it's not working no more I got a whole new set but the connection does not match they told me I have to rewire it because of the difference between stock and aftermarket HIDS and I'm also looking for a front lip 2002-2003 ! please help me
Stay OEM or pay a lot for a better brand.
Most aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts are not even good enough for the trash.
If they were cheap and you can't return them, burn it with fire.
ok so im having an issues with my driver side turn signal. its just not working, i checked the bulbs they work fine. i replaced a couple fuses that go to that headlight still no dice. so i'm kinda stuck dont really know where to go from here. any suggestions would be much appreciated. oh mind you i had to splice my wires because when i got the car i had absolutely no wiring harness for any of my headlights.
I would triple check your wiring and every fuse in all 3 fuse boxes (glove box and 2 under the hood)
Also FYI, turn signal goes through the relay in your hazard switch. So that's a good place to check for continuity.
Also FYI, turn signal goes through the relay in your hazard switch. So that's a good place to check for continuity.
5th Gen
I have a 2000 Nissan maxima I just replaced the IACV and had my computer repair but I still having a problem with getting my car started I have to press the gas twice just to keep it started every time I go to crank up. any ideas of what u think that could be happening?
Need more info...
What repair on your computer??
Whats your millage??
What have you repaired or replaced?
Is your car throwing codes IE is your check engine light on??
You list of possibles is about 10+ need more info...
What repair on your computer??
Whats your millage??
What have you repaired or replaced?
Is your car throwing codes IE is your check engine light on??
You list of possibles is about 10+ need more info...
You say the car was in an accident, what was the damage? Does it vibrate in park and drive or when moving? Is it manual or automatic?
It's manual, it was in a front end collision. The passenger side got most of the damage. They had to straighten the frame alil where the fender attaches to. The car vibrates in park I Dont really feel it in drive. I had to replace the radiator and fan and condenser.
Last edited by jaybenice; 05-25-2013 at 01:51 PM.
Our family owns a 2002 Maxima SE (Over 125k miles) and I had two questions:
1. It consumes a good bit of oil between changes. I always drain out much less that I put in, and I finally started searching and see that this is a common problem in this generation of Maxima. Other than checking my oil often, and replacing what I have lost, what can I possibly look into to reduce this consumption? Some threads suggested 1. Ring Job, 2. PCV valve replacement, 3. Just leave it alone and check oil often?
2. What is a good oil to use in this engine (I know this usually sparks a heated debate, and I cannot seem to find a general consensus after reading oil threads). I have heard to go conventional or high mileage for an oil burning 3.5VQ? Unfortunately the car has not seen consistent use of either conventional or synthetic as both have been used. I would like to use non high-mileage synthetic and was thinking about going with Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 full synthetic and sticking with that from now on? I hear good things about the Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra in VQ37 engines.
Thanks for any help!
Drew
1. It consumes a good bit of oil between changes. I always drain out much less that I put in, and I finally started searching and see that this is a common problem in this generation of Maxima. Other than checking my oil often, and replacing what I have lost, what can I possibly look into to reduce this consumption? Some threads suggested 1. Ring Job, 2. PCV valve replacement, 3. Just leave it alone and check oil often?
2. What is a good oil to use in this engine (I know this usually sparks a heated debate, and I cannot seem to find a general consensus after reading oil threads). I have heard to go conventional or high mileage for an oil burning 3.5VQ? Unfortunately the car has not seen consistent use of either conventional or synthetic as both have been used. I would like to use non high-mileage synthetic and was thinking about going with Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 full synthetic and sticking with that from now on? I hear good things about the Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra in VQ37 engines.
Thanks for any help!
Drew
Might also take it back to the repair shop. If there is further damage, the person who hit you should still be liable for that.
Regarding brand? Whatever you prefer. I stand by my position to avoid the cheap stuff. It costs less for a reason. AutoZone and Walmart branded stuff may be made by name brand manufacturers, but it's cheaper for a reason. They tend to lack additives which help prolong the oil's life and reduce sludge and gumming. I'd rather have that in my car. Regarding Conventional vs Synthetic.....I try to get a blend and search for whatever is on sale. Autozone has sales all the time (sure other places do to) and you can get a 5+ jug of blended oil for about the price of conventional most times. Personally, I try to stick with Valvoline or Castrol....but that's my personal preference.
Sorry, but there really is no straight forward answer on this. Try a couple things and see what works for you.
Hey I'm having issues with my driver side turn signal and my side markers . None of them work . Any suggestions. I've tried all the fuses, and checked to make sure my wires are getting power to them. So I'm lost , don't know what to do.
Keep it simple...check your bulbs first
Exactly where did you check for power? Did you take out a bulb and touch the contact in the socket?
There is no connection between the side markers and the turn signals as far as the power goes. If all the the non-working lights are in the one corner, you should check out the ground continuity to the lights, assuming you have power to the lamps.
Is it all the side markers or just the one on the driver's front?
Exactly where did you check for power? Did you take out a bulb and touch the contact in the socket?There is no connection between the side markers and the turn signals as far as the power goes. If all the the non-working lights are in the one corner, you should check out the ground continuity to the lights, assuming you have power to the lamps.
Exactly where did you check for power? Did you take out a bulb and touch the contact in the socket?There is no connection between the side markers and the turn signals as far as the power goes. If all the the non-working lights are in the one corner, you should check out the ground continuity to the lights, assuming you have power to the lamps.
New here and i have a suspension question.
Hey guys, im relatively new on the forums and im the proud owner of a 2001 nissan maxima and i've lowered it on tien springs and i need to change my suspension and i was wondering which brand to get. I've seen alot of people post up saying they have kyb agx or gr-2's on eibach lowering springs and i looked them up, and it says for my year it requires slight modification and if anybody has put them on, im wondering what modifcation do you have to make. Thanks for the help guys.
Hey guys, im relatively new on the forums and im the proud owner of a 2001 nissan maxima and i've lowered it on tien springs and i need to change my suspension and i was wondering which brand to get. I've seen alot of people post up saying they have kyb agx or gr-2's on eibach lowering springs and i looked them up, and it says for my year it requires slight modification and if anybody has put them on, im wondering what modifcation do you have to make. Thanks for the help guys.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=645426
Last edited by djfrestyl; 06-05-2013 at 11:18 AM.
Assistance with 2001 Maxima
Where do I start? I love my Maxima!
2001 SE - 252,000 miles
I am hoping someone can help as I have been victim of ECU blowing, and bad idle.
Steps I have done so far:
ECU repaired from Module Repair (removed link I dont want to advertise for anyone)
I Have replaced Idle air control valve
I have disconnected both motor mounts
Put in repaired ECU, tried to do idle relearn with no luck. (followed steps he gave me which are same steps on forum that involve disconnecting TPS for less than 5 seconds and reconnecting)
Before I completed transaction the person from Module Repair told me I NEED to replace TPS but I dont see anyone from this forum doing it.
MY IDLE IS STILL BAD. It still stutters if I dont press the gas while driving. it starts okay but while driving it may still die at a red light when i try and go from 0, or just while driving if i coast, then press the gas it will not idle correctly. it jumps everywhere
I am hoping someone can give me advice on this.
Should i replace TPS?
Should i clean my MAF
Is there any steps I am missing? I love this car and I dont want to give up on it. If someone could help me that would be awesome!!!!!!
2001 SE - 252,000 miles
I am hoping someone can help as I have been victim of ECU blowing, and bad idle.
Steps I have done so far:
ECU repaired from Module Repair (removed link I dont want to advertise for anyone)
I Have replaced Idle air control valve
I have disconnected both motor mounts
Put in repaired ECU, tried to do idle relearn with no luck. (followed steps he gave me which are same steps on forum that involve disconnecting TPS for less than 5 seconds and reconnecting)
Before I completed transaction the person from Module Repair told me I NEED to replace TPS but I dont see anyone from this forum doing it.
MY IDLE IS STILL BAD. It still stutters if I dont press the gas while driving. it starts okay but while driving it may still die at a red light when i try and go from 0, or just while driving if i coast, then press the gas it will not idle correctly. it jumps everywhere
I am hoping someone can give me advice on this.
Should i replace TPS?
Should i clean my MAF
Is there any steps I am missing? I love this car and I dont want to give up on it. If someone could help me that would be awesome!!!!!!
Last edited by Roc_Max; 06-05-2013 at 05:06 AM.
Cleaning the MAF is easy and costs less than $10. I don't think it will resolve your problem, but if never done, will not hurt and something I tend to think of as general maintenance anymore when running a cone filter/aftermarket intake or live in very dusty/pollinated area (which I do).
As far as replacing TPS, I'm assuming you're not getting any codes?
As far as replacing TPS, I'm assuming you're not getting any codes?
Where do I start? I love my Maxima!
2001 SE - 252,000 miles
I am hoping someone can help as I have been victim of ECU blowing, and bad idle.
Steps I have done so far:
ECU repaired from Module Repair (removed link I dont want to advertise for anyone)
I Have replaced Idle air control valve
I have disconnected both motor mounts
Put in repaired ECU, tried to do idle relearn with no luck. (followed steps he gave me which are same steps on forum that involve disconnecting TPS for less than 5 seconds and reconnecting)
Before I completed transaction the person from Module Repair told me I NEED to replace TPS but I dont see anyone from this forum doing it.
MY IDLE IS STILL BAD. It still stutters if I dont press the gas while driving. it starts okay but while driving it may still die at a red light when i try and go from 0, or just while driving if i coast, then press the gas it will not idle correctly. it jumps everywhere
I am hoping someone can give me advice on this.
Should i replace TPS?
Should i clean my MAF
Is there any steps I am missing? I love this car and I dont want to give up on it. If someone could help me that would be awesome!!!!!!
2001 SE - 252,000 miles
I am hoping someone can help as I have been victim of ECU blowing, and bad idle.
Steps I have done so far:
ECU repaired from Module Repair (removed link I dont want to advertise for anyone)
I Have replaced Idle air control valve
I have disconnected both motor mounts
Put in repaired ECU, tried to do idle relearn with no luck. (followed steps he gave me which are same steps on forum that involve disconnecting TPS for less than 5 seconds and reconnecting)
Before I completed transaction the person from Module Repair told me I NEED to replace TPS but I dont see anyone from this forum doing it.
MY IDLE IS STILL BAD. It still stutters if I dont press the gas while driving. it starts okay but while driving it may still die at a red light when i try and go from 0, or just while driving if i coast, then press the gas it will not idle correctly. it jumps everywhere
I am hoping someone can give me advice on this.
Should i replace TPS?
Should i clean my MAF
Is there any steps I am missing? I love this car and I dont want to give up on it. If someone could help me that would be awesome!!!!!!
No codes right now but I have only driven 20 miles since ecu installed
Last edited by Roc_Max; 06-05-2013 at 09:38 AM.
Remove your TPS and test it with an ohm meter. The switch should open and close (open / short circuit). The sensor should have a nice linear resistance to it, can't recall the initial and max values, so check the FSM.
Cleaning MAF is easy, get the spray and try it, however this frequently doesn't help and sometimes you just gotta get a new one to see if that solves the problem. Could get one from auto store and if doesn't help, just return it.
Is your new IACV a Nissan part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, good luck to ya!
I'd also take the cover off the ECU and just eyeball it and see that the STA509A mosfet looks ok, as well as the traces running to the connector. In fact, ohm them out too just to make sure the company did a good repair, there's been at least one person here recently who got an ECU back from one of these repair companies that was still not working, so you need to look into that as well, don't trust em, especially if idle's still not right.
Cleaning MAF is easy, get the spray and try it, however this frequently doesn't help and sometimes you just gotta get a new one to see if that solves the problem. Could get one from auto store and if doesn't help, just return it.
Is your new IACV a Nissan part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, good luck to ya!
I'd also take the cover off the ECU and just eyeball it and see that the STA509A mosfet looks ok, as well as the traces running to the connector. In fact, ohm them out too just to make sure the company did a good repair, there's been at least one person here recently who got an ECU back from one of these repair companies that was still not working, so you need to look into that as well, don't trust em, especially if idle's still not right.
Last edited by Pilm; 06-05-2013 at 02:32 PM.
yes, not all 2001 SE models are the AE. ALL AE's are SE model, but not all Se's are the AE.
AE has more than just shift **** to differentiate it. It's got different color wheels (center caps iirc), a factory body kit, and different headlights. The door sills are different as well as the gauge cluster iirc.
Remove your TPS and test it with an ohm meter. The switch should open and close (open / short circuit). The sensor should have a nice linear resistance to it, can't recall the initial and max values, so check the FSM.
Cleaning MAF is easy, get the spray and try it, however this frequently doesn't help and sometimes you just gotta get a new one to see if that solves the problem. Could get one from auto store and if doesn't help, just return it.
Is your new IACV a Nissan part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, good luck to ya!
I'd also take the cover off the ECU and just eyeball it and see that the STA509A mosfet looks ok, as well as the traces running to the connector. In fact, ohm them out too just to make sure the company did a good repair, there's been at least one person here recently who got an ECU back from one of these repair companies that was still not working, so you need to look into that as well, don't trust em, especially if idle's still not right.
Cleaning MAF is easy, get the spray and try it, however this frequently doesn't help and sometimes you just gotta get a new one to see if that solves the problem. Could get one from auto store and if doesn't help, just return it.
Is your new IACV a Nissan part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, good luck to ya!
I'd also take the cover off the ECU and just eyeball it and see that the STA509A mosfet looks ok, as well as the traces running to the connector. In fact, ohm them out too just to make sure the company did a good repair, there's been at least one person here recently who got an ECU back from one of these repair companies that was still not working, so you need to look into that as well, don't trust em, especially if idle's still not right.
I don't like the sounds of that. It is aftermarket. I will check out TPS as soon as possible. The repaired ecu came with a warranty sticker so I can't open it. The company gave me a flyer and seems legit. The car is running a lot better then it was before, but still has minor issues. I will get back on this as soon as I test. Thanks for the help!
hey im getting a code saying my purge valve solenoid or evap canister is bad. i changed the valve and canister. where exactly is the solenoid at. any information would be greatly appreciated. oh and i have a 2003 maxima
See page 24 and 25 of the EC section in the FSM - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf
How is it that the wheel bearing goes bad>?