jaybenice

My guess, is the previous owner must have replaced the 7.5 fuse with a higher amp fuse. So really it's just a matter of finding where. Because there is nothing labeled that even remotely sounds like it goes to console illumination or whatever it's called

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

the fuse for the cluster illumination is the same fuse for the brake lights under the hood on the driver side fender

jaybenice

ok so these are my fuse layouts would you mind pointing out the exact one or telling me what im missing. i replaced the one for the tail lamps and alternator s just in case. i also replaced the brake light fuse which is located under the dash. thanks and sorry if im not understanding ecatly what your saying

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

Sorry i missed informed you a bit there. The dash lights run on the same fuse as parking lights not the brake lights..... If your still having lighting issues I'd start looking at scamatics for the grounds and check those.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You are not missing any fuses that I can tell.

Nissan keeps changing the way they wire the dash lights. The dash lights in the 2003 run off of the tail lamp fuse under the hood and no other fuse is involved. The fuse for the alternator affects the charging of the alternator and has nothing to do with your instrument cluster lights.

I am not clear on dash lights other than the instrument cluster. Do the other dash lights work, like the radio, clock, glove box, auto trans shift lever, heater/ac controls? Does the dash light dimmer work? And is the ash tray light lighting up?

Did anyone mess with the radio? When people change the radio, there is a wire that causes the instrument cluster lights to not work.

Lastly, in your photo of the underhood fuses, at the bottom is a red wire spliced into a green wire. Any idea of what that is about?

jaybenice

Thanks, hmm my tail lamp fuse was fine. And I changed the radio a long time ago. But it was a swap . I didn't mess with any wires. The green wire splice was a wiring mess I had to clean up for my headlights. Now all my interior lights are out . Dash and all. And my right tail light went out. Do u think it could be a relay which is designated to the tail lamps. Thanks again

jaybenice

Ok, so I got my light cluster to work. Buuuut, my parking brake light and battery light won't turn off. And I'm sure my check engine light is on for another issue. Granted my tail light is probably just blown. But any thoughts on why the battery and brake light won't go out .

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The battery and brake lights at the same time is an indication of the alternator is not charging.

I hope you have a voltmeter because you need to find out if the alternator is charging or not. When the car is off, a good, fully charged battery should read around 12.3 to 12.5 volts. When the car is running, the voltage should be 13.8 to 14.3 volts.

You can check a 10 amp fuse for the alternator, fuse # 70 under the hood, the cover says ALT.S

You can also check that the 2 wire plug on the alternator is plugged in.

jaybenice

Funny thing, when I changed the alt s fuse earlier my light cluster started working. So I guess I'll check the alternator and it's plug and get back to you thanks.

jaybenice

So I just checked my battery, it's at 12 volts while running and 12.5 while it's off

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Your alternator is not charging. Exactly why, I don't know. Make sure the fuse by the battery is good.

You could pull the little 2 wire plug on the alternator and check that the black/red stripe wire has 12 volts on it. If it does, then I would have to say the alternator picked a hell of a time to die. Remove the alternator and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it.

If that wire does not have 12 volts on it, then either the fuse is bad or you have a wiring problem.

jaybenice

Aww man, I think I'm hoping it's just the alternator. I'd rather have to replace that then try to find a. Bad wire. I did just replace the "Alt s" fuse , if that's what your referring to. I heard the alternator can be a bit of a hassle to replace. So I guess I'll check the plug and get back. On Another note would u by any chance know what hoses go to the evap system. I'm guessing they either have a small leak or there is something blocking it. I just replaced both solenoids and my check engine light is still on.

Aaron Michael Farland

I've had a ticking noise under the hood with engine off since I did a motor swap. When I pull the ECCS fuse under the hood by the battery it stops. What does this fuse fully control? I've tried the relays near the interior fuse panel and no luck there. Hope to follow and figure it out. Any ideas?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The alternator fuse I referred to is the ALT.S fuse. And just because you changed a part on the car, DO NOT EVER think that the part you put in could not possibly be bad. When it comes to fuses, the best way to check a fuse is to test it for continuity. This means setting your voltmeter on ohms, removing the fuse and then measuring across both legs of the fuse. Just looking at it while it is still plugged in is at best 75% reliable. Removing the fuse and looking at it is probably 95% reliable. When you are caught between a rock and a hard spot, you have to do the extra effort stuff.

But if you do the voltage check on the wire that plugs into the alternator and have 12 volts, the fuse is good. Also while you are voltage checking at the alternator, check for voltage on the thick wire too. That wire goes directly to the battery, so it better have voltage present.

As for the EVAP hoses, I doubt if I can help. My car is a 2000 and all that stuff is quite different on your 2003. The service manual has the information in it, but the problem is that it wasn't written by someone from this planet.

If you look in the EC section, there is a diagram of the emission stuff. But it is not in the form of being a picture of the engine, more like a block diagram. If you cross reference between the block diagram on page 30 and cross reference to the component locator diagram on page 23, MAYBE you can figure it out.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf

jaybenice

Yup it was the alternator. It just died while I was driving

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

Well it does suck but it could have been something much harder.

jaybenice

Yea, your right. Any suggestions before I tackle this job. I see I have to unbolt the a/c compressor. And I'm guessing that long nut is the tensioner nut. I heard to loosen that first.

jaybenice

ok so i was reading up on these codes, i have a feeling that the hoses from the canister to the front of the car may be clogged with charcoal and thats whats causing the code to pop up. i remember awhile back i got it to disappear and when it did i remember the car felt like it just spit something out. i noticed a pick up in response, mind you I was traveling at a high rate of speed which I think helped clear the hoses some. But I assume there is more charcoal debris in the hoses. so anyways im trying to figure out where the hose from the vapor canister gets to purge control valve. only thing is , i cant find the purge control valve, unless im misunderstanding and the purge control valve is the vent valve, which i know is attached to the vapor canister. some direction would be great. i think once i clear the hoses out i might be that much closer to figuring out why i' gettin these codes. thanks again

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve - look at the labels on the top of page 24 just right of center and follow the line down.

The EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve is attached to the EVAP charcoal canister, behing the left rear wheel. If you had charcoal in the vacuum lines, you most likely have a bad EVAP canister.

Here is a photo of my 2000. I think it is pretty similar to your 2003.

jaybenice

right , i figured my canister was shot. i replaced my canister and vent valve. now im assuming i need to clear out the hoses. i went on another forum and they suggested detaching the hoses from both ends so i can blow compressed air through it to clear it out. i think i will first start with just removing the hoses near the vent valve and bypass valve . to see if my problem starts there. i know when i was replacing the canister alot of dust like debris was coming from inside the hoses. so i guess my best bet is to follow the hose coming from the vapor canister to the front of the car.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Remove the 2 hoses that are on the EVAP canister, the ones located on the other side from the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve. One of these (don't remember which one) goes to the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve under the hood. Then go under the hood and remove the hose from the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and blow it out towards the rear.

jaybenice

Ok got you , thanks. For the help everybody. Hopefully this fixes my problem

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

So jaybenice did you change your alt? I hope you didn't disconnect the a\c...i removed radiator instead...i figured it was cheaper...since you would have to Properly bleed,vac,and inject right amount of oil and refrigerant Into a/c sys...not to mention check for leaks...(cross your fingers)...but with the radiator removed you only have to buy Nissan(pre-mixed) antifreeze,or mix your own with adequate ratio of 70%distilled water and 30%concentrated antifreeze (oem equivalent)

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I did both, just for the convenience of having all the room I wanted.

I'm pretty sure all brands recommend a 50-50 mix.

jaybenice

No I didn't, I was actually in the process. This damn tensioner nut is a pain to get off. I got it almost off but it's being a pain towards the end. I saw a video on YouTube but I think it was a 4th gen model. Because I don't see a locking nut on mine, i dont know if i'm missing something. Any suggestions? Oh and I'll definitely go the radiator route thats easy to take on and off.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The tensioner locking nut is the bolt in the center of the pulley. When you loosen that bolt, the tensioner nut (in your photo) should turn fairly easy. The tensioner assembly is the same as the 4th gen.

jaybenice

yeah , thanks. i guess in the video it looked different. i was reading my haynes manual and i realized what i was missing. i heard its kind of a pain to get off. so i'll spray it with some wd40 and let it sit over night and try it tomorrow. thanks again

well since im still here, quick question. i'm replacing my lower oil plan because its leaks . now when i was trying to remove the pan it looks like a liquid gasket was applied to seal it. is that common? so how would i go about removing it? i figured i'd do it while my car is jacked up in the air.

I gotta know how did you get that bottom bolt off without moving the compressor to the side. I can't see it let alone fit my hand in there to feel where it's at

Nevermind I figured it out , those two bolts are a pain

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Haha Leaned something new...sure does take up a lot of reading time but i always find an answer here or an idea of where to begin...

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

I'm pretty sure all brands recommend a 50-50 mix.[/QUOTE]

Nope not Nissan :no: (fsm) .stated may cause corrosion since its aluminum,all other brands don't have such engine (Aluminum).

jaybenice

Nope not Nissan :no: (fsm) .stated may cause corrosion since its aluminum,all other brands don't have such engine (Aluminum).[/QUOTE]

So last thing I hope for awhile. I'm trying to replace my lower oil pan and it looks like it's sealed with silicone maybe. So should I just pry it open?

bneuman73

I have a 2002 Maxima automatic. I have been searching high and low for my crankshaft sensor. My sensor is not above the oil pan behind the front passenger side tire. I believe I have located it directly under the front of the car located in the (transmission housing)??? I have dissasembled the sensor along with the metal plate (two wires attached) that was bolted in with what i believe is the sensor??

My first question... Is this the cranshaft sensor? and if so does the plate go on top or between the sensor and transmission housing?

My second question is do I have to have this metal plate bolted on the car just to start the car? I will attach it but want to make sure this sensor is ok before I spend an hour on my back monkeying around trying to get that plate between.

I appreciate everyones help and consideration in this matter. I have attached a link to craigslist because I do not see how to load pictures on this thread but do see the opportunity to load a URL so I will post a pic on craigslist of what I am talking about.

I dissasembled over a week ago and now I have forgotten if that goes on front or between.




http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/3898859036.html


Bill

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Check in the FSM is the best place to look.

dcam0326

Hey guys. My cars up and running again you guys were right, the cats were clogged to high hell! Just today I drove 20 minutes and when I stopped I noticed my engine idling low like it was about to stall and my oil light was flickering very irradically. When I drove off it stopped. Any ideas?

jaybenice

Just wanted to say thanks guys. The people on this forum have helped me a lot. I appreciate it a lot thanks again

Max2107

New guy here in Dallas.

I have a 2003 SE Titanium 6spd. About a month ago, out of the blue, I started getting a pretty bad engine shake at idle. My initial assumptions were MAF sensor, intake leak, O2 Sensor. My father-in-law just visited my wife and I, he is a mechanic and came to the conclusion that it's the MAF sensor.

My question is, should I do a direct OEM replacement or should I spend a little more and go with a bigger bore, better MAF?

I've read the MAF sticky and I am still indecisive about my options. Just looking for a little persuasion or pros and cons.

Thanks for any assistance.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Wuz up Max2107 Arlington checkin in..as far as your "?" I assume you running a few mods already so shell out a couple more c-notes and upgrade it..if your stock spend the $ for oem maf ...

Max2107

Actually, no modifications yet. Haven't had to funds to upgrade anything yet, just basic everyday maintenance.

Thanks for the input.

Robin

I have a question. How do I seat the MAF connector? I had to replace my starter the other day and cant get this back in. It will not snap back in place. The green part is supposed to be pushed down to release it, and stay down until the connector is pressed back onto the MAF socket. Then, when pressure is applied against the socket, the green part should snap back up and the connector should lock on. It appears the spring doesn't work. I can push the green part back up with a screw driver while disconnected, but there's no tension. The green part freely moves up and down. I can't see a way to get this to stay in place.

Worse case scenario, where I can buy this connector? I looked on ebay but I didn't see anything relevant.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Sounds broken. Dealer or junkyard. Snip and splice.

Robin

The Human Verification box is making me want to not be here.

My dad figured it out. There's a white piece inside the connector that had gotten stuck on the MAF socket. We pried it out, snapped it back in the harness and voila.



The white piece back where it belongs:


You can see the zip ties, that was going to be plan B.