Return the aftermarket ballast now!!
Stay OEM or pay a lot for a better brand.

Most aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts are not even good enough for the trash.

If they were cheap and you can't return them, burn it with fire.

 

ok so im having an issues with my driver side turn signal. its just not working, i checked the bulbs they work fine. i replaced a couple fuses that go to that headlight still no dice. so i'm kinda stuck dont really know where to go from here. any suggestions would be much appreciated. oh mind you i had to splice my wires because when i got the car i had absolutely no wiring harness for any of my headlights.

 

I would triple check your wiring and every fuse in all 3 fuse boxes (glove box and 2 under the hood)

Also FYI, turn signal goes through the relay in your hazard switch. So that's a good place to check for continuity.

 

Hmmm, where would I get the fuses for the fuse box on the passenger side fuse box. And I'll check the box in the car. I didn't check there

 

I have a 2000 Nissan maxima I just replaced the IACV and had my computer repair but I still having a problem with getting my car started I have to press the gas twice just to keep it started every time I go to crank up. any ideas of what u think that could be happening?

 

Ok I replaced all the fuses pertaining to signal lights and or the left headlight. I know I spliced it right. My only guess is a relay

 

Need more info...

What repair on your computer??

Whats your millage??

What have you repaired or replaced?

Is your car throwing codes IE is your check engine light on??

You list of possibles is about 10+ need more info...

 

Hey I think I need new motor mounts I'm getting a lot of vibration while the car is on. It's probably from my accident. Any suggestions on what I should get and the best way to go about installing them?

 

You say the car was in an accident, what was the damage? Does it vibrate in park and drive or when moving? Is it manual or automatic?

 

It's manual, it was in a front end collision. The passenger side got most of the damage. They had to straighten the frame alil where the fender attaches to. The car vibrates in park I Dont really feel it in drive. I had to replace the radiator and fan and condenser.

 

Wait, what?

 

Wait let me correct myself. I only feel the vibration in my steering wheel while the car is idle. That's it. While I'm driving I'm fine. And it's a manual transmission

 

Our family owns a 2002 Maxima SE (Over 125k miles) and I had two questions:

1. It consumes a good bit of oil between changes. I always drain out much less that I put in, and I finally started searching and see that this is a common problem in this generation of Maxima. Other than checking my oil often, and replacing what I have lost, what can I possibly look into to reduce this consumption? Some threads suggested 1. Ring Job, 2. PCV valve replacement, 3. Just leave it alone and check oil often?

2. What is a good oil to use in this engine (I know this usually sparks a heated debate, and I cannot seem to find a general consensus after reading oil threads). I have heard to go conventional or high mileage for an oil burning 3.5VQ? Unfortunately the car has not seen consistent use of either conventional or synthetic as both have been used. I would like to use non high-mileage synthetic and was thinking about going with Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 full synthetic and sticking with that from now on? I hear good things about the Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra in VQ37 engines.

Thanks for any help!

Drew

 

* There are a couple ways you can check this out. Find an open area so you don't accidently hit someting. Easiest way is to open the hood. Run engine and with foot on the brake, gently apply some gas. Begin to lift off the clutch; you shouldn't have to come off it all the way....you're just putting tension on the engine and therefore it's mounts. Pay attention to whether there is excessive movement of the engine. Would help if you had a friend standing to the side so you might be able to better visualize the movement and area.

Might also take it back to the repair shop. If there is further damage, the person who hit you should still be liable for that.

First, I'm a believer in checking oil often regardless of whether the car is a known oil burner. But to answer the question, there is no additive or oil that I have read regarding this issue that resolves it completely. The primary factor here seems to be the overall extent of the issue itself. Some who have slight burning speak about significant reduction by going to a slightly thicker oil such as 10w40. Others (like myself) note absolutely no change using 10w40. I also used Lucas additive supposed to stop burning due to valve seal issues, etc. So far, I cannot determine it has had any effect and will never use it again. With all that said, really I can only suggest that you try 10w40 and see if that helps.

Regarding brand? Whatever you prefer. I stand by my position to avoid the cheap stuff. It costs less for a reason. AutoZone and Walmart branded stuff may be made by name brand manufacturers, but it's cheaper for a reason. They tend to lack additives which help prolong the oil's life and reduce sludge and gumming. I'd rather have that in my car. Regarding Conventional vs Synthetic.....I try to get a blend and search for whatever is on sale. Autozone has sales all the time (sure other places do to) and you can get a 5+ jug of blended oil for about the price of conventional most times. Personally, I try to stick with Valvoline or Castrol....but that's my personal preference.

Sorry, but there really is no straight forward answer on this. Try a couple things and see what works for you.

 

Thanks Chris Gregg!

 

Hey I'm having issues with my driver side turn signal and my side markers . None of them work . Any suggestions. I've tried all the fuses, and checked to make sure my wires are getting power to them. So I'm lost , don't know what to do.

 

Keep it simple...check your bulbs first

 

Yea I did all the obvious things. Bulbs are fine. What trips me out is its my driver side turn signal and my side marker lights that aren't working.how do they correlate?

 

Passenger side is ok?

 

Yea my passenger side signal light is fine. My tail lights work. But my sidemarkers and driver side signal light don't .

 

Is it all the side markers or just the one on the driver's front?

Exactly where did you check for power? Did you take out a bulb and touch the contact in the socket?

There is no connection between the side markers and the turn signals as far as the power goes. If all the the non-working lights are in the one corner, you should check out the ground continuity to the lights, assuming you have power to the lamps.

 

I checked the ground, it's working. I got the turn signal to work but when I tried it again it didn't. As far as I know it's just the front two sidemarkers I haven't checked the rear yet

 

Hey guys, im relatively new on the forums and im the proud owner of a 2001 nissan maxima and i've lowered it on tien springs and i need to change my suspension and i was wondering which brand to get. I've seen alot of people post up saying they have kyb agx or gr-2's on eibach lowering springs and i looked them up, and it says for my year it requires slight modification and if anybody has put them on, im wondering what modifcation do you have to make. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Here - this will help.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=645426

 

Where do I start? I love my Maxima!
2001 SE - 252,000 miles

I am hoping someone can help as I have been victim of ECU blowing, and bad idle.
Steps I have done so far:

ECU repaired from Module Repair (removed link I dont want to advertise for anyone)

I Have replaced Idle air control valve

I have disconnected both motor mounts

Put in repaired ECU, tried to do idle relearn with no luck. (followed steps he gave me which are same steps on forum that involve disconnecting TPS for less than 5 seconds and reconnecting)

Before I completed transaction the person from Module Repair told me I NEED to replace TPS but I dont see anyone from this forum doing it.

MY IDLE IS STILL BAD. It still stutters if I dont press the gas while driving. it starts okay but while driving it may still die at a red light when i try and go from 0, or just while driving if i coast, then press the gas it will not idle correctly. it jumps everywhere

I am hoping someone can give me advice on this.

Should i replace TPS?
Should i clean my MAF

Is there any steps I am missing? I love this car and I dont want to give up on it. If someone could help me that would be awesome!!!!!!

 

Cleaning the MAF is easy and costs less than $10. I don't think it will resolve your problem, but if never done, will not hurt and something I tend to think of as general maintenance anymore when running a cone filter/aftermarket intake or live in very dusty/pollinated area (which I do).

As far as replacing TPS, I'm assuming you're not getting any codes?

 

No codes right now but I have only driven 20 miles since ecu installed

 

Remove your TPS and test it with an ohm meter. The switch should open and close (open / short circuit). The sensor should have a nice linear resistance to it, can't recall the initial and max values, so check the FSM.

Cleaning MAF is easy, get the spray and try it, however this frequently doesn't help and sometimes you just gotta get a new one to see if that solves the problem. Could get one from auto store and if doesn't help, just return it.

Is your new IACV a Nissan part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, good luck to ya!

I'd also take the cover off the ECU and just eyeball it and see that the STA509A mosfet looks ok, as well as the traces running to the connector. In fact, ohm them out too just to make sure the company did a good repair, there's been at least one person here recently who got an ECU back from one of these repair companies that was still not working, so you need to look into that as well, don't trust em, especially if idle's still not right.

 

I bought a 2001 SE maxima recently but it doesn't have the AE shift ****, were only some SE models anniversary edition?

 

yes, not all 2001 SE models are the AE. ALL AE's are SE model, but not all Se's are the AE.

AE has more than just shift **** to differentiate it. It's got different color wheels (center caps iirc), a factory body kit, and different headlights. The door sills are different as well as the gauge cluster iirc.

 

I don't like the sounds of that. It is aftermarket. I will check out TPS as soon as possible. The repaired ecu came with a warranty sticker so I can't open it. The company gave me a flyer and seems legit. The car is running a lot better then it was before, but still has minor issues. I will get back on this as soon as I test. Thanks for the help!

 

I bought cattman headers and plan on installing them soon, what do you guys recommend to use so I don't get a check engine light? o2 simulator or just get an o2 spacer?

 

search around man...either will work if you do it right

 

loud "woo" sound that gets louder as speed rises. in the rear passenger corner. got alignment and balance..

 

Could be the hub bearing on the RR, or an abnormally worn tire. FWIW, neither an alignment nor a balance will fix a speed related noise (or any noise, really).

 

^^ on wheel bearing.

 

hey im getting a code saying my purge valve solenoid or evap canister is bad. i changed the valve and canister. where exactly is the solenoid at. any information would be greatly appreciated. oh and i have a 2003 maxima

 

If you mean the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve, It is on the top corner of the engine by the electric throttle control actuator.

See page 24 and 25 of the EC section in the FSM - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf

 

I was almost positive the sound at first was from my uneven wear which did add to it but the main source is definitely not the tires which I found after getting 4 new ones.

How is it that the wheel bearing goes bad>?

 

It just does. Nothing caused it.

Simple fix as well.