Yeah, it was for just the idler pulley, thought it seems like a job that I can do myself even. Also, could it be the other belt aside from the serpentine belt? It i couldnt see the inside for cracks, but it looked pretty old.

 

Eh, I think thats going to be on the very bottom of my list of to dos with my Max haha

 

Anyone help? Please

 

It might need a tuneup like said, new coil packs, induction service, oil change, the works. Any CELs? Id honestly just take it to the Nissan Dealership, have them diagnose it for the 130 it usually costs, and then have your mechanic look at the list of work the dealership gives you. Maybe be a problem with the fuel pump as well, or even your air intake. Not enough air, not gonna combust, not enough fuel, same issue....but def take it to get a proper diag. Instead of spending money on possible solutions and having them fail, id spend money on that..

 

It is possible, but those old style V belts tend to be quieter. One thing I just thought of - look at the crankshaft pulley while the engine is running. If it looks like it is wobbling, the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer assembly needs to be replaced. With the engine off, look at the alternator serpentine belt from beneath the car and see if it is running straight between the crankshaft pulley and the alternator. If the belt looks like it is on an angle, the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer assembly needs to be replaced.

Changing subjects a little bit, did you see this thread? This guy had a squeak and it was his alternator.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-shavings.html

 

I am not that optimistic that a tune up will fix it. Is the check engine light on? The check engine light is actually the 3 words "Service Engine Soon". It is in the lower right corner of the instrument cluster.

Then the big question - does the check engine light work? When you turn the ignition key on, but do not start the car, the various warning lights should be lit up.

If the engine is missing on a cylinder, this should cause a check engine light. You can stop by an auto parts store and they will read the codes that light up the check engine light for free.

The gauges failing could be a bad ignition relay that provides power the instrument cluster.

 

Hi,
I have a 2002 maxima gle with 155k. Under Light acceleration my car begans to ping, the problem only seems to be intermitting. The more throttle I give it the pinging goes away, any ideas on what to check? thanks in advance

 

Never saw that thread, looking into it now. I got it check out and the nissan tech guy said it was most likely that old v belt or the tensioner. Mostly because of the nature of the noise. Not overly loud (only sounds loud when the sound bounces off cars next to me or houses) and because it comes and goes. Started the car today, sound was there, but when i got to the guys garage, and started it up again about 20 minutes later it was gone. Gonna do the screw driver method for the alternator next time the squeal is back to rule it out 100% and looking from the top the belt doesnt seem to wobble, slight vibration but not a wobble. gonna spray that old belt with wd40 and see if theres a pitch change as well

thanks for all your help

 

I replaced the fuel filter on my 2002 maxima se hoping it would run better and stronger after it was feeling a little sluggish. I kept the same O rings. Now that everything is back together you have to crank the key for around 5 seconds for the car to start. I know that it is not a battery problem. The car runs and drives great after its on. any comments or suggestions as to what's wrong?

 

Hi im new to the site I have a 2000 maxima gle with a cold air intake and a cat back exhaust and a shift kit even though its an auto. Anyway I had my dash apart to put in a led cluster and I noticed one of the slots for a bulb wasnt being used and when I shined my flashlight into it on the other side it said Sport with a picture that looked like a shock absorber. Does anyone else have this or know if it could be useful on usa maximas? Thanks!

 

Well title pretty much describes what's about to happen. I recently acquired my first maxima (2000 v6 5speed) and I have a couple of questions about it. I am a complete noob to these cars but I am very knowledgeable in other makes as this is my 40th+ car thus far. Ive built street cars, stanced cars, race cars and all in between. I might also be a noob to this forum but I have many other accounts in other forums and have a very high user rating on all of them.

My question is; what wheel specs fit flush with these cars? Im quite into the stance look nowadays. Its currently on 17x9? +? Xxr 527s. Just want that information in case i ever feel like trading for a different set. another question would be, what are common issues these cars have? Mine currently has 117k and from what I see, hear and feel, it seems to be pretty solid thus far, with the exception of what is written below.

The exception. ... When I make a left turn my right rear wheel seems to make some kind of clucking noise and feels like it wobbles a bit. The car is currently on megan full bodies. But I haven't really looked into what else has been done to the chassis. Any ideas of what the issue may be?

Heres a picture for reference of my car.

 

Welcome to the Maxima! I don't know the wheel specs, sorry. But you asked about common things to keep an eye on... ignition coils in the 2000 can sometimes give issues. NATS, the factory security system (immobilizer) came out in 99 so the early 5th gens sometimes have that... really though that's about it...aside from normal maintenance things any car would have along its life.

 

Yea ive read quite a bit about ignition coil issues but to me that seems more of a maintenance item that is bound to need replacing eventually. Also, I purchased this car with only a "valet" key. Will I run into an issue due to this or will I just not be able to unlock the trunk for the outside? Previous owner said that he has been using this key for the past two years with no issues as he also recived this car with just the valet key.

 

Jack up the rear wheel and see if you can wobble the suspension at all. Some people have replaced the trailing arm bushing. Unfortunately it is not designed to be replaced easily but there are several postings showing detailed instructions on how to replace them. Of course you might have something simple like a bad shock or spring but all of this will be more evident if you get the wheel free hanging.

 

Yea ill be putting it on the lift later today just figured I'd post the symptoms to see if anyone else has had a similar issue

And now of course as soon as im leaving the dmv from registering the car, it seems tp have faulty ignition coils.... FML lol. Do I have to remove the upper section of the plenum or is there a way to get to the coils in the rear without doing so?

 

The mechanic it might need an intake, but he isnt sure so he doesnt want me spending money on anything i dont need. I might have to get it towed to a pepboys or something.

 

Hey everyone. I have a 2000 Max and it will stall when I am turning into a parking spot or when backing out of one (without pressing the gas). The SES light indicates P1447 - Evap Purge Flow/Mon. The Nissan folks say it could be one of multiple sensors between the gas tank and the engine. Any recommendations before I go spending a bunch of money on sensors that do not need replacing?

Thanks in advance.

Rick

 

It's true that it could be several things, but a somewhat common thing is the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve. It is attached to the EVAP Canister which is behind the Driver's side rear wheel. This valve has a plunger that tends to stick and will cause the P1447. You can take the valve off and see if the plunger moves. If not, spray a penetrating fluid (WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster) in there, let it soak and see if it frees up.

 

I need to know what some common thing s that break are because my car hasn't been feeling to well.

the other week the battery died and the other night puked up oil all over the drive belt assembly, down part of the chassis and part of the wheel. also i noticed some on this aluminum up top at the firewall on this aluminum line that has foam sleeving.

it seems that it's form the power steering pump area and the steering fluid res super duper low maybe cause it puke out all the oil every where.

popped off the passenger side wheel and the cover but, i can't really see any thing.

at should say i watched this video to learn more about accessing and replacing the PSP.


it seems on my 2001 maxima you pretty muhc need it to be a on a lift to be able to access anything. any one else concur? I'm no epxert but, couldn't i remove the Power steering pump belt, reinstall the A?C alt belt and drive it 2 or 3 miles to get it on the lift?

i also looked at some other stuff while the wheel was off because i'm new to this stuff. break pads seem fine CV boots seem fine, at first glance the belts look new, A/C compressor is looking clean and non gunked/rusted. The Flex pipe isn't looking so hot.

any thing else i should be looking for?

slight OT, is there any where else besides this site where i can decode the VIN? i wanted to learn more about the car.


EDIT: is it bad to turn the wheel till it stops and hold it there? i have a bit of an ab normal drive way, sorta kind of plus i'm a new driver.

EDIT: although i know it could be a hose, i look for rebuild kits, i also found this, http://www.ebay.com/itm/160994181441...84.m1423.l2649

EDIT: STAY TUNED FOR PHOTOS!!!

EDIT: Photos

The initial leak.








Note the color of the oil, yeah it looks normal.






Continued in next post.

 

Continued

Alright i'm trying to get some shots of the back of the oil pump.







I saw some other lines covered in oil, i think they are higher up than the PSP... i think it's kind of hard to tell.





Then i started noticing some other things, I forgot to take shot of the flex pipe bur, i think that is the least of my worries. BEFORE i post these pictures i was watching a water pump replacement of a VQ35DE and i saw the water pump was behind the timing chain cover now as you see these photos don't think i'm putting two and together, i'm just asking if coolant shows up in the oil if the water pumps weeps/leaks?

This defiantly isn't brown oil, looks like coolant to me and i don't think that is normal.









Now that could be anything, so i took shots of the reservoirs special the over flow/coolant res because it's plastic isn't in the best shape it's the equivalent of plastic rusted and cracked.

Like i said, it's awfully low.


not looking so hot,






Continued in next post.

 

Other than this the radiator hose connections look fine,







I new this car was too good to be true, http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post8833239

The universe dictates i'm too poor to have anything nice

EDIT: where the hell is the show/hide spoiler button in the editor? most forums have a show/hide feature.

EDIT: when i went to re-re-edit... where the image code should be photos are, wth? most forums when you go to edit you see it as you originally posted it, IE no photos in the editor but, the code. in may case i wanted to back up this post in text/code form to a text file but, i can't it shows up as photos and not code like it should.

EDIT: so that hose in picture 1, post 1, it's soaked or at least the foam is, i scrunched/pulled that foam back from the junction/connector and it's all covered in oil. maybe the high pressure line decided to spew all over the place?

EDIT: well i'm thinking a High pressure hose and pump rebuild/seal kit ought nip this right in the butt but, i'm not sure about the return line, guess i could get one too if it's cheap enough and i also have no idea what up with anti freeze on the oil pan.

 

Well I was able to get in there and do as recommended, but it stalled again. It only happens on sharp turns (left or right). Anything else to try?

Rick

 

The EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve thing was aimed at getting rid of the P1447 code. The EVAP system codes usually don't interfere with the running of the engine. I apologize for ignoring that part of your post.

The engine dying at idle without a check engine code (other than the EVAP code) makes this more difficult to diagnose. You could try cleaning the throttle body insides and maybe get a can of MAF cleaner and clean the MAF sensor. I can't guarantee that either of these will fix it as there are so many possibilities.

 

https://app.box.com/s/0se0mwm2137yx83a7epf
Okay so I have this nissan maxima 200 and it has been giving me problems since ever. What you see in the video happens and the first time a quick jumpstart was all that was needed, the second time I took out the battery and took it to autozone,it was drained to 0% and the guy at the counter told me that a busted alternator would do that, so I recharged the batteery put it in the car, took it to autozone they connected that machine they have, and told me that they could'nt find a problem! back home the car busts again, we replaced the battery, it worked, then it happened again. Sometimes the car went like 2 months without doing it, others it was minutes apart.The needles inside the displays in the dashboard start bobbing up and down, the car doesn't accelerate well, and after a while it turns off, battery drained. Months ago I found a fault code with one of those machines, indicating that there was a faulty AIT sensor, so I bought a new one, haven't replaced it, but I really do not think an AIT would cause a car to break down.but then again I do not know much about cars, any help is greatly appreciated I do not know what else it could be

 

You've got a bad connection in the charging system. Clean all battery terminal ends, take the positive apart, there is a smaller line that runs down to the alty. Make sure all connections and clean and tight.

 

My pressure hose looked just like that and I had a massive amount of ATF/Power Steering Fluid everywhere for a few weeks until I could get it fixed.

Just keep the fluid topped up until you get it fixed.

The anitfreeze is a bit scary.

 

my dad is thinking a janky radiator hose or my thoughts are the over flow tanks has a crack on the bottom or something along those lines but, that got me to thinking aobut the damn water pump, if didn't know any better i'd say you can't tell it's broke till the engine over heats and ruins the engine.

it's behind the timing chain cover. for that matter how the hell do you tell when the timing chain is getting worn out, i had only 1 user say there are tell tale sings and when i asked what they were he didn't say.

I'm thinking i was right to think they need replaced after so many miles. And o nthe note i'm thinking the a seal kit for the PSP is also a good idea, i could have my tranny guru friend or another skilled tech look at the internals while i'm at it. I bet the internals can be "rejuvinated" with some resurfacing with honing tools and sand paper.

 

I recently started having trouble with my Maxima just recently. I thought it was the battery so I bought a new one. I changed it and the today it didn't want to start. could anyone know what it could be. Maybe the alternator or the 120A fuse on the power cord. Could it be the fuse?
Please Help!

 

get a cheap voltmeter, with the car running put the positive lead of the voltmeter on battery positive and negative on battery negative. should read around 13.6-14.9 volts, if its something low like 12.4v the battery isnt charging and the alternator is likely bad

cheap DVOM are like 5 bucks at auto parts stores, i think Walmart has them even

 

Thanks Chrome i'll check it out and see if that's the problem.

 

Ps hose is a known issue. Pump is solid unless it is run low on fluid. Did you read the thread on hose replacement? I just had mine done this weekend by a friend. He's a pro and he said the info in that thread was useful.

 

I've also been having this problem, I have a 2000 Max, One morning my car wouldn't start, and I had to jump it. Didn't think too much of it, Went to school, got out, dead again. Jumped it once again, and then I tested everything out. I turned the car on, and disconnected the battery letting it run off the Alternator, I put an electrical load on while it was running off the alternator and it didn't give out. I also checked if my amp was drawing power while the car was off, it wasn't. I'm not sure what to check guys, anybody have any ideas?

 

It could be your battery Try swapping a known working battery, also try cleaning your terminals, it doesn't sound like your alternator, when I had an eclipse I had the exact same problem, it was my battery that was beat up .

 

I just recently got an 03 TE 6spd with about 122, xxx miles on it. I've been getting the p0300 random misfire code. I took it to the shop last week and they said it was cause of my spark plugs so I had them put in brand new spark plugs, and still this did not solve my problem. Im assuming my coils are fine because the mechanic didnt mention that they needed to be changed. The car idles well and It drives well, I can even get on it without any problem. Just sometimes I feel I'm not getting all the power I am supposed to. Ive noticed when driving that the CEL will blink a few times but it doesnt happen often. I've checked for any leaks or cracks in the hoses leading to the engine but there arent any from wat I can see.

**note** the owner before me installed a cut off switch which cuts off the gas for anti-theft purposes. Don't kno if that's a reason jus thought it would help to kno.

Can anyone tell me what is wrong? Or has anyone experienced this?I'm new to this so I'm no expert. I just want to handle this before something else goes wrong . Any help is appreciated

 

You have 2 problems:
1) An idiot for a mechanic
and
2) One or more bad ignition coils.

The cut off switch isn't the problem. When you see the CEL light flashing, that is when the misfire problem is occurring.

Unfortunately, the P0300 code does not tell you which cylinder is having the problem. The expensive way to fix this is to replace all the ignition coils. Otherwise you will have to wait until the problem gets a little worse and you get a P030x code, where x is the cylinder number.

 

Thanks for the reply...so if it is the coils can I test them by taking them out one by one with the engine running to see which is the bad one??

 

correct.

The engine will stumble when you pull out the coils one by one. The "bad one" is the one in which the engine stumbles THE LEAST...

 

Ok, I will check them. Thanks for ur input.

 

But that's the thing man. I swapped out my battery when it did that, got anther known working battery with no problems, and overnight my car drained it too. I had the negative terminal swapped to a new one, positive I believe is stock. Think it could be a fuse or something? I'm fresh out of ideas man. Thanks for the reply

 

If the battery is drained while sitting over night, you have some kind of current drain going on. Look though the back seat and see if your trunk light is on all the time. Same for the glove box light. Do you have a Bose radio that doesn't work right? Unplug it. How about the lights in the doors and sun visors?

Otherwise you will have to do a current draw test, a slow, laborious process to find out what is draining the battery.