for what it's worth dyno pulls show that cold air intakes make little no gains and sometimes cost HP mainly because for it to work it's best to watch with a high flow exhaust and have the computer tuned.

 

Hi,
I have an 01 Maxima that just stopped and had to coast to the curb. There was an electrical smell. The car would not restart. The RAA found a blown number 2 engine continuity fuse and suspected the ECU so it was towed to the auto elec. They replaced the fuse and the car ran fine. When I asked about the RAA guy's suspicions they looked further.

The diagnosis: burnt out components in the ECU but no idea what caused it. No codes showing. Claims he can't test for shorts and that ECU's blow on their own all the time. Can't tell me what components are burnt. As the car was running we brought it home so that we could investigate further as I didn't feel comfortable with what I was being told and quoted and that the replacement change over ECU would only have a 30 warranty.

Anyway after hours on the net and in this fabulous forum I have more confidence in you guys than the auto elec who didn't even know that manual Maxima's have electronic motor mounts.

I would love some opinions on the burnt components in the ECU and see that some guys on here have had their ECU repaired in America much cheaper than in Australia (quote $480).

My man has worked out the electronic motor mount plugs and has disconnected them.

Sorry I don't know computer well and I hope the photos come up.

 

The blown chip is the motor mount mosfet, so you did the right thing disconnecting both motor mount plugs. Since no other damage happened due to the motor mount mosfet blowing you don't actually need to repair anything, the blown chip isn't being used now that you disconnected motor mounts. What sometimes happens is the current surge that blows the motor mount mosfet can also damage the IACV mosfet (the one near the connector) but since you don't have any SES code and that part looks ok from what I can see in the pic, you are probably ok as is. I suppose you could remove the blown chip just to make sure it doesn't cause a problem later but on the other hand if things are working why fiddle with it!

 

Hi Plim,
You have no idea how happy I am to have someone who is knowledgeable take the time to have a look. It is greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

Your identifying the component gives me enough confidence to now drive the car and save $$ potentially by not doing what the auto elec recommended.

What do you think of the auto electrician's comments? He said no codes came up, that he couldn't check for shorts and doesn't know what the components link to? Are these reasonable responses from a qualified auto elec who doesn't specialise in Nissans?

Thanks

 

in general blown mosfets are nothing new, usually caused by and heat or cheap components.

i'm big on desktop gaming computers and work at a mom and pop shop and got a hold of a video card with the same problem.

i desoldered the bad mosfets and had some new one ordered. it is worth mentioned they cna be upgraded in my case i could have gotten some with a higher drain gate value but, i didn't. in retrospect i i should have repalced ALL the mosfets and with one with higher drain to source value because when i put the card under full load the it's throttle the performance because of built in safteys.

since an ECU isn't a video card it could just blow again. so it's best to get better mosfets assuming you are the DIY type like me.

EDIT: my adventures here, http://www.overclock.net/t/1259614/n...t-vrms-success

 

The ECU doesn't "blow on their own all the time" as you were told. It is either the IACV shorting out or the little electric motor on the motor mount shorting out.

In the U.S., manual transmission cars do not have the electric motor mounts.

 

Is this where you ask questions for new people?
I have an 03 maxima and I was think of put another fuel gauge but I need to find the ohms of the stock fuel gauge anyone ever thought about doing that thanks.

 

Ohms I'm not sure of but I know when the tank is full the sending unit has a 0 volt signal and when it reads empty it's a 2 volt signal. I know that from Car Gauge PRO. It doesn't read the level, only the voltage.

 

What's up peoples I'm new here and looking for advice/help I have a 04 infiniti I35 same vq motor..I recently took the car to the shop to change the cam shaft position sensor (bank2) that went bad drove the car home parked it up..next day I'm driving to work and the service engine light started to blink came to a stop car would idle rough then when the service engine light stops flashing car would drive perfect again..can someone please help me thanks

 

Flashing SES light means misfire. Go to autozone have them scan it.

 

Can it be read without ses light on ??

 

yes there should be codes stored in memory. Take it back to the shop.

 

Thanks guys appreciate the help

 

I've been searching on and off for weeks now on
the correct replacement maf for my 4-pin 2000.

There's no part number on my maf housing and
the replacement for it at autozone is a 5-pin which couldn't
even run that car.

 

Do yourself a favor and get a mass air flow sensor from the dealer. It's cheaper and you'll be happier, as far as the pins go the fifth pen on the air flow sensor for you is unused. Its for the air temperature sensor in the 5.5 Gen.

 

I have a 2000 fed spec car and my maf is 5 pin, but the wire harness is 4 pin. The maf has been replaced, but not by me.

maybe this is what you need from rockauto.com

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...928&cc=1359222

 

Multiple cylinder misfire to be a bit more accurate. Commonly means bad coils. A code read should point you in the right direction as to which coils are going out.

 

Hi there - I'm due for a smog inspection here in California and was told that my "PCV hose" is cracked and needs to be replaced. I've done searches online and the auto parts stores (including Nissan factory parts), and I can't find anything called a "PCV hose". Is there another name for this part (or a part number)? Is this, in fact, a "blow by hose" or is that something totally different? How can I figure out exactly what I need to order?

Here are some photos so you know what I'm talking about:







Is this possibly part 11826 shown in the diagram below? Can someone please confirm or point me in the right direction? (Diagram taken from http://www.nissanpartszone.com/compo...-118-1661.html)


Piggy-back question: assuming this is the correct part to replace the cracked hose, is the replacement of this hose straight-forward? (i.e. - unclamp as applicable, pull off old hose, oil connection points, slide new hose on and re-clamp as applicable) or is there more to it/something else to be aware of?

Thanks for your help!

 

Thanks for the response.
Not DIY's but appreciate the info
By the way so far so good with the car running well with the disconnected electronic motor mounts. Im thrilled.

 

That 11826 hose you pointed out is the one you want. Nissan rarely calls parts by the more commonly used names, so you just have to make sure that you carefully look up the part.

The process of installing the new hose is just as you said. When ever you are removing an old hose of any kind (vacuum, water, fuel) the end may stick and not want to slide off. What I like to do for this is to use a pair of plies. Place the pliers where the hose clamp was and twist the end of the hose. That assumes that there is enough room fora pair of pliers.

Another comment - I wouldn't bother getting the special molded hose from Nissan. When I replaced mine, I just used generic, flexible fuel line. It's a lot less expensive.

 

I had a cel come on for a bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor I reset it and it hasn't came on for about four months. Not it comes on all the time. I also dont have power like I used to. Lastly has anyone ever thought of doing a awd 5th gen maxima? I know it would be a lot of work but just curious.

 

The MAF is probably going bad. The O2 sensor may or may not be bad. When an O2 sensor goes bad, it usually does not affect performance. But if you had a P0420 or P0430 code, it could be that one of the catalytic converters is going bad.

If the engine isn't running properly, you will get extra codes like the O2 sensor or the knock sensor and those codes will go away when the real problem is fixed.

There have been a couple of attempts to convert the Maxima to a rear wheel drive. You have to replace all the frame underneath the body, and change all the suspension, both front and rear. It is very expensive. One guy said he had about $10,000 into the project and he was maybe half way done at the time. He never did post anything about finishing the project. I don't think you want to try it.

 

what's that motor do any ways? it is some kind of electric counter weight?

 

Hate to point this out but it's free to call a nissan dealer and ask the parts department for parts advice. Describe your problem to the parts guy and most times they will be able to tell you exactly what to look for.

 

The name "electric motor mount" or the much less accurate "electronic motor mount" is highly deceiving in regards as to how it works. The motor mount changes stiffness by means of oil pressure. Built into the bottom of the motor mount is an oil reservoir and a small electric motor pumps the oil in and out of the upper section to change the stiffness.

Here are some photos of a motor mount I dissected:

http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=6654

 

Maybe if I won the lottery I'd try it. Haha but I'll check out the maf sensor

 

Hi. New to Maxima's. I have the tcs, abs, and slip light issue currently. The ses was on and I got a p0158 ( oxygen sensor, bank 2 sensor2) code read from it. Not sure if that has anything to do with the warning light issue or not.
I cleared the code and it hasn't come back on(yet). So my question is..is the abs etc light issue the coils or is it the abs module/sensor or what? I read through the forum on the issue but got kinda confused to be honest. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Oh, I guess I should mention, the tcs, abs, slip light were on when I bought the car a few days ago. The ses light was NOT on. It came on after I was rear ended...having driven less than 10 miles from where I bought the car.

Thanks again for any input.

 

i'm not sure if i am posting in the right place but i'm completely stumped
I have a 2001 maxima and after i drive anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes the engine will jerk..it feels like it just stops briefly..the check engine light will flash, but not stay on..the check engine light was on before and i have fixed everything it required..replaced the front catalytic converter and oxygen sensor, the spark plugs,the mass air flow sensor,the pcv valve and the problem still exists but at least the check engine light is now off.
any advice would be appreciated
thanks

 

The car had thrown the 430 and a 420 code about a year ago and I replaced the MAF sensor and that seemed to work for ~6months. The SES came back on with a 430 code. The car still drove fine and I was waiting unitl I got closer to inspection to fiddle with it. In PA we have emissions.

Anyway the car just lost all power over the weekend. I had trouble backing it into the garage with a 5 speed on flat ground. It would start and idle but had no power at all. If you gave it gas the idle would drop and it would choke and cough. It would start immediately every time.

I have done some reading on my problem, and it seems to me to be the front precat/o2 sensor. Anyone else have a differing opinion? The car has ~120k on it, o2 sensors were replaced 3-4 years ago

Any and all advice is always appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

Will missing the white piece inside this clip (female coil connector) cause the p1320?

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/images/CONN-85775.jpg

 

Would missing the white piece inside the female coil connector cause a p1320?
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/images/CONN-85775.jpg

 

It's certainly not going to help.

 

i'm surprised such a small motor ans plastic gears can make such a difference... or do they? is it better/simpler to just install a normal engine mount?

 

They do make a difference, but the difference is more noticeable in one car compared to another. The difference is in how smooth the engine idles. A soft motor mount absorbs vibrations to make it seem as if the engine idles smoothly. The higher the mileage, the more likely the engine will not idle smoothly.

Some people say they don't mind the extra vibration when they install solid motor mounts. It's a personal preference thing somwhat coupled with how smooth the engine idles in the first place.

 

Thanks, Dennis. Being a total newbie, and also needing a new MAF sensor, I just ordered the molded blow-by hose for $13. It was the right one, and the replacement was super easy. Appreciate your help!

 

My car stared making a chirping sound today any idea what it is?? It happens even when the car is warm, it speeds up when i accelerate, dies down when I slow down/idle, and it happens even when power-braking. I have an 01 auto

 

Sounds like your serpentine belt is drying up spray some water on it see if it goes away and if it does replace your belt.

 

I changed my serpentine and the other accessory belt within the last several months.

 

Try the water ... Also
Make sure they are tight.

 

is my car missing the knock sensor