Idkimjustbored17

I just got my 03 maxima se 6 speed.. I don't like the stock exhaust and I'm looking for a replacement. I'm having no luck finding headers or header back exhaust for the car, I am always directed to the nissan Altima. Does anyone have any good recommendations for headers or full exhaust set ups? Thanks

freezer

C'mon man, search!

OBX headers

There's several exhaust options available, here's one:
http://www.brmexhaust.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=37536

Jonesy_RDNR

New here, I have a 2002 Maxima and I have 1 headlight that doesn't come on immediately. I have to flip the switch on and off a few times before the passenger side will come on. Also I here a pop sound when it doesn't come on like a bad connection or a short. Is this a common problems with these cars and how can I fix it.

Jack Canuck

I'm new here, obviously. I've been trying to read through the rules. I actually did make a post about this problem I need to resolve for my Maxima, but it says that moderator approval is required. Do I need to make 15 posts before I can make a thread? I have searched for answers but I have not found one for my specific problem.

I fear that my problem might be hard to solve. I have a P1448 vent control valve code. I have removed the valve, sprayed some WD40 in there, let it sit, pressed on it with a screwdriver, then hooked it up to a 12V battery via alligator clips and it works. I should have checked it first before the WD40. I put it back in, cleared the codes, and after the next driving cycle was finished, the check engine light came back on. I checked the fuse, #20 I believe next to the steering wheel, it looks good. My next thought is to check the wiring harness with a volt meter. Does anyone know when this valve is supposed to open so I can check it? Hopefully not when I'm driving down the road, I wouldn't know how to check it then. I don't have a diagnostic tool that can open and close valves for me, so I need to check it when the car computer decides to open or close it to figure out if this is an electrical problem.

Should I just buy a new valve? This one looked like it works fine when I tested it, but it could be a sticky valve? Any other ideas for causes of this problem and how I might trouble shoot it? Could this be a problem with the charcoal canister or something else?

Any help is appreciated!

EDIT

This is a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE

maxiiiboy

This valve is only used for diagnostic, so it does not affect driveability in any way.
I suggest following the diagnostic procedure described in the FSM (link in my signature) starting on page EC-607. I would start with the "Overall Function Check" on pg. EC-609.

Jack Canuck

Who's the moderator? I just posted a follow up comment, but it says I need approval? Wondering if this post will also need permission?

EDIT:

Well this one worked for some reason, but my previous one did not! No links or pics, just text, but whatever, I'll just try to type it out again!

Thank You for your reply maxiiiboy!

I have downloaded the manual. I have checked that the valve works with 12V.

I still need to check the Vacuum Cut Valve and the Evap Control System Pressure Sensor.

When it says to connect the volt meter to terminal 60, I assume that means the white wire in the wiring harness that is connected to the Evap Control System Pressure Sensor? On page EC145 it says that terminal 60 has a white wire.

I still haven't found anything to tell me how to check that there isn't a broken wire in the wiring harness to either the Vent Control Valve or the Evap Control System Pressure Sensor. Any Ideas?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The service manual assumes you have a certain amount of knowledge on how to do certain basic, generic things. It is not a how-to for total beginners.

Checking to see if an electrical wire is broken or not is called "checking continuity". The word continuity is a derivation of the word continuous as in "do you have a continuous connection from one end to the other?".

This can be done in 2 ways. If all the connections are plugged in, you can measure for voltage at each end of the wire. If you have voltage at one end and not the other end, then you have a broken wire.

The other way is to unplug the wire at both ends. You set your meter to measure ohms (resistance) and connect a meter probe to each end of the wire. If you have a broken wire, the meter will indicate infinity, which is maximum resistance, the same indication as when the meter probes are not connected to anything. If the wire is good, the meter will indicate zero ohms (or maybe 1 or 2 ohms).

Jack Canuck

I realize that you're supposed to quote the message that you are responding to in this thread. Every time I do that, it won't let me post. So apologies, I'm not trying to go against the grain here, but my posts aren't showing up when I use the quote button.

Thank You for the reply!

I watched a video where a gentleman had a diagnostic tool where he could use it to open and close the valve. He used that to trouble shoot the wiring harness. I don't have one of those tools. I have a simple code reader and a volt meter.

If I knew when the vent control valve was supposed to close, perhaps on start up? I could check it then for 12V between the connectors. The manual, at least that part of the manual for the fault code, doesn't tell me how to check the wiring harness for the vent control valve, at least I can't find it.

There are two electrical connections for the vent control valve, 12 VDC to close the valve. If I hook up a volt meter when the valve is open, and check each electrical connection to ground, should there be any voltage? Is that what you're saying? Is there anyway to easily check continuity for this harness with the ignition switch in the on position using a volt meter? Or, does anyone know when this valve is supposed to close? I'm not finding either of these things in the manual.

For the evap control pressure sensor, I'm going to assume that the white wire to the harness is terminal 60. Please correct me if I'm wrong. It says I need a vacuum pump to check the sensor, does anyone know, can I do this with a large syringe?

Thanks again guys, I appreciate any help! I realize that this valve is for diagnostics, but I still need to get it done to pass emissions.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't know of any special tool other than the Nissan Consult software. Maybe it was something the guy made himself.

The manual may tell you to check the wiring, but it will not tell you how to check the wiring. This is basic knowledge you are expected to have. The manual only tells you how to do things that are unique to the Maxima.

As you said, there are 2 wires on the valve. One of them is a red with yellow stripe wire. This wire should have 12 volts on it whenever the ignition key is in the ON position. The voltage comes from fuse # 20. If you have 12 volts on this wire at the solenoid when the ignition key is on, then this wire is OK, it has continuity.

The other wire is orange with blue stripe. This is the wire that turns the solenoid on and off. It comes from the ECU. If the ECU has the solenoid off, you will measure 12 volts on this wire. If the ECU has the solenoid on, then you will measure anywhere from zero to maybe a half volt.

Most of the time you should measure 12 volts on the orange w/blue stripe wire. This can be measured at the solenoid and if the wire is good, it can also be measured at pin 105 of the ECU ( bottom of page 610, section EC). Exactly when the solenoid is energized (turned on) is not specified as it is only done for diagnostics. How long it is kept on for is not known either, but it is probably a fairly short period of time (couple seconds?) and gets repeated from time to time.

Yes, the white wire goes to pin 60 of the ECU. The service manual says to measure at the ECU.

I doubt that a syringe can create the amount of vacuum needed. Most auto part stores "rent" tools. You put a deposit down on the tool that is the selling price. When you return the tool, you get the deposit back.

Jack Canuck

Dennis,

Thank you very much! I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions!

Jack Canuck

Dennis,

I forgot to mention, the video I watched was for the same issue on a 2006 Chevy Impala. I don't know if this tool he used would work for a Nissan. No idea.

Not sure I can post links here, but the video on YouTube was called

"EVAP vent solenoid wiring repair and testing P0449" Obviously a different code on a different car. Thanks again!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You should be able to post links here, just like you should be able to quote.

I searched out the video you mentioned and here is the link to it:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OumX9covQc

Click on it and you should get to view the video.

I don't have any idea as to why things don't work for you.

Dan Evans

I've been working all day on this and am frustrated. Took out my starter and had it checked- it was all good. Tested the battery twice and its good. IIthe first time I got it back together it was cranking but not real well then it wasn't cranking at all. I've checked the connections and it seems to be okay. Don't know what to do=





____________________________________________


5th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=36867

Modification and other HOW-Tos (tells you how to do common things done to 5th Gens):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=33563

ECU Fault codes or Check Engine light diagnostics (5th
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481


THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!
How do I search? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748

Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked b

maxiiiboy

If the starter is not cranking/turning, or when it's cranking very poorly as you indicate, then: a) Either you are not getting 12.5V to the starter (and it should be at least 10.5V when cranking), or b) Your starter is bad, or about to go bad.

Does the car start when you give it a boost?
Does it start when you connect battery voltage directly to the starter? (be careful here ....)
Sorry for being a bit terse; hope it helps, more later.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I think that you are so frustrated that you can't focus on the problem. I don't know the depth of your knowledge on cars, but a starter problem is one of the easier things. You have 3 things - battery, wires and starter.

However, I'm sure that part of your problem is based on your reliance that you were told that the starter was good. Bad, bad, bad thing to do. Let me bore you with how I was educated.

My car was in a parking lot 20 miles away from home and wouldn't start - it was cranking slowly. Taking the easy route first, I swapped out the battery from my other car. Didn't help. Took out the starter and took it to the closest auto place for testing - an Autozone. They said it tested fine in spite of the fact that the noise it made was deafening. I told them that the noise was not normal and I wanted to buy a starter anyway. They REFUSED to sell me a starter because mine tested good!!! I was dumbfounded

Since my other car was a maxima, I decided to swap starters. So now I'm pulling a second car apart in a parking lot. Results - car 1 started fine, car 2 cranked slow and wouldn't start. Needless to say that I didn't get a replacement starter at Autozone.

Either try another battery or try jumping the car. If this doesn't work, replace the starter.

Dan Evans

no- I also bought a new starter and it stull
doesn't crank. Battery is good and it won't jump start either. I'm not the best on the electronics side but I'm fine on the mechanics side. It must be a short or a blown fuse?? All the radio and lights work.

maxiiiboy

As Dennis said, forget about "new starter" or "tested starter", etc. From our collective experience here, such statement does not mean much. What matters are the symptoms.
What exactly do you mean by "does not crank" ?
You need to be very specific. There are at least four different conditions here, depending on what happens when you turn the ignition key to the START position:

1. Nothing happens. Nothing at all - the starter does not turn, does not even make a little click.
2. There is a faint click, but the starter does not turn/crank.
3. There is a loud click, but the starter does not turn/crank.
4. The starter does turn, and it cranks the engine, but the engine does not fire up.

The diagnosis is very different for each of the above conditions. The most likely causes for each of the above four symptoms are:
#1: Bad ignition switch, or bad battery, or bad battery-starter wiring,
#2: Bad inhibitor relay,
#3: Bad starter (solenoid failure),
#4: Bad camshaft sensor, or bad ENG CONT1 fuse, or bad/no fuel delivery, or a NATS problem (if/when the red security light is on during cranking).

So, what condition exactly are you experiencing ??

maximatech12

There is a relay switch too that could be bad?
Anytime a starter is bad the parts company always suggests to check the P/N position relay(A/T) or clutch interlock relay(M/T)?
This in these cars(A/T)are labeled INHIB in the fuse box.
You say the battery is ok but i take it you tested it with the headlights "on"?
Turning on the headlights will remove the surface charge.

Dan Evans

With the new battery in there it just makes no clicking sound at all. Just a slight electrical whining sound. Is there a place to post a video on her?

maxiiiboy

OK, that's good info.

Now, you need to determine what's causing the spinning/whining noise: a) The fuel pump priming, or whether it's b) The starter spinning but not engaging.

The fuel pump is located on the tank, under the rear seat. It should be running/priming for about 2-4 secs after you turn the key to START. So, if it's indeed running, that's good news. On the other hand, if it's the starter making the spinning noise, and if it's spinning real fast, you have a problem: it's not engaging, and you may need a new starter or flywheel. Try to bang the starter with something heavy to see if it will engage.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can post a video right in the same box that you type in if you are in the "ADVANCED" typing box that has the smiley icons on the right side of it.

If you click on "QUOTE" to a post, you will be in the advanced mode.

If you don't click on QUOTE and start typing in the "QUICK REPLY" box, you have to click on the "GO ADVANCED" box below the typing area.

Once you are in the advanced mode, scroll down the screen a little bit and you will see a box titled "ATTACH FILES." It tells you the different file types that are allowed. For videos, the allowed file types are: mov mp3 mpeg mpg and wmv. To start the upload process, click on the "MANAGE ATTACHMENTS" button.

What ever you post, photos or videos, will appear after all the typing.

If you ever want to experiment with posting something something, after you sign in to the org, scroll all the way down to the bottom of the screen and there is a "TEST POSTS HERE" forum.

Dan Evans

i meant to say with the new starter in there- not new battery. The other original starter made a clicking noise- just one click. The new starter makes no clicks.

maxiiiboy

OK, so the starter is highly suspect (never mind that it's new - bad parts are more common than you think). However, you also have to suspect everything between the starter and the battery, the battery itself including.

The simplest way to resolve this is to turn the ignition key ON and measure the voltage on the starter. Dennis had a post about this, including pictures, some time ago .... so just search, or perhaps he may step in.

Good night, I am going to bed.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

As Maxiiiboy stated, don't rule out the starter. Every experienced technician on every kind of product, not just cars, has learned this. You will, too, after you have been chasing your tail trying to resolve a problem when the cause turned out to be a part that you ruled out because you believed it was good simply because it was new, nearly new, rebuilt, tested good or claimed to be good by some long lost relative.

Here is a link to troubleshooting a no crank, no start problem. It has photos that will help guide you through the troubleshooting.

maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/656595-maxima-won-t-crank-no-start-thread.html

Because of differences in electrical wiring, please tell what the year and the transmission type of your car is.

Dan Evans

OK so the problem was the starter and my my failure to connect the starter to plug wiring. This is the 2001 Nissan Maxima with 90,000 miles . Now I have a different issue that it's a little sluggish my check engine light is on so I have to look into that next.thanks for all of the help!

EEAL

I'm looking for a reliable parts dealer.
I've already tried contacting Dave Burnette (at South Point Nissan), Brent Koenig and Andy Burt (at Gillman Nissan), but they no longer work at those places.
Any other suggestions or info on how I can get in touch with one of these guys?
Thanks!

Edit: I called Courtesy Nissan. Does this quote sound right for 6th Gen Valve covers & Gaskets? (I have a 2002 Maxima & it was recommended to replace the Valve covers with 6th Gen)

$97.11 rear Valve Cover
$183.94 front Valve Cover
$4.25 Gasket
$5.43 Gasket

maximatech12

No Dave B is no longer selling here on this site.
Courtesy parts has been suggested here

If you look through the introductions and stickys you'll see a few parts windows open for business.
GOOGLE - "NISSAN OEM PARTS"

zachthepack

The other day my 2001 Maxima fan blower got stuck on high and I cannot turn it off. This was fine as I figured it was the fan resistor and was going to fix it after my trip. On the way down i had turned the temp down since it was getting cold and couldnt turn the fan down. This cause the ac to get stuck on defrost/feet and now I cant turn it down, off, or change it off defrost/ feet. Ive seen similar issues but none of this combination.

Any help is appreciated! This south TX heat is brutal!

losifanatic

Does anyone have an exploded view of an 03 6speed transmission. I have looked and looked and somehow can't seem to find it

Chad Snider

I hope someone here can help. I'm at my wits end. I have a 2001 Maxima non-HID that I have attempted to put a hi/lo hid kit in. When I first installed it the hides cut on just fine then when I flipped to high beam they turned off, no the bulb socket is completely dead now. Both relays are fine as I tested them both with the socket that still worked. Like an idiot I then tried it from the other socket (I guess I thought it was just a problem with the bulb socket) and now neither socket works. I have a car with no headlights that I can't figure out how to fix. Please help

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Each headlight has a fuse. They are located in the fuse block between the battery and the fender. The cover labels them H/LAMP RH and H/LAMP LH

what kit did you use and do you have an installation guide for it. A link to the guide would be helpful.

Chad Snider

Wow. I can't believe I missed that. I saw the relay box and just figured that was it. Unfortunately I do not have a guide for it. I have installed this type of kit many times. It's a hi/lo kit with telescoping bulbs and the harness that runs off just one headlight socket. I've never had this issue before. I have a very similar (only difference is bulb type) kit in my 04 Frontier and have no issues. I'm open to any ideas and thank you so much for pointing out those fuses. At least now I can have regular headlights if all else fails. Here's a link to the type of harness I'm using:

https://store.ijdmtoy.com/HID-Conver...s-p/aa1004.htm

maxiiiboy

I would forget Dave, Brent, and/or Andy.
Rockauto.com sell good parts at very reasonable prices. They carry many OEM parts for our cars, for example a lot of Hitachi electronics such as MAF, IACV, coils, and many other. They clearly identify such parts as "the actual OEM part".

In your case, they sell valve covers made by ITM for only $43.79 (see http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/n...lve+cover,5772). This ITM cover is clearly not an OEM part, but the "heart" icon on the listing indicates that the part is VERY, VERY popular. Therefore, there is a pretty good assurance the part is also good. If it were not, the heart would not last.

I always check Rockauto first. I buy 95% of my parts from them. There are some parts (for example, CV axles), where I would like to buy OEM, but Rockauto does not carry them. However, neither does anybody else, Nissan dealers included.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you absolutely must have a Nissan part, check out parts.com. Lower than Courtesy and nissanpartsdeal.com.

maxiiiboy

Vow, these guys (parts.com) do indeed have NISSAN OEM CV axles!
Nobody else does - not anymore.
I am impressed - thanks Dennis!

maximatech12

I dont recommend Rock Auto!
If you can find OES genuine somewhere go ahead and use that!

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

​​​can you elaborate on why not to use rock auto? I have had nothing but a good experience with them

maximatech12

The customer service could be better. If you have some issues with a part they only replace the part.
Its like you get what you buy and if your not happy with it too bad.
The warranty ads are bull. Its a huge headache if the part doesnt work out. Youll wind up just throwing in the trash and taking a loss out on it.
Or youll wind up with an ice pack over your head from the lousy service and part.

I personally am just going in-store to your local Napa or Advance Auto Parts.
Also your local Nissan parts window too.

maxiiiboy

Man, you are so screwed up that it hurts .....

And as a side note, can you define what you mean by "OES" ?

maximatech12

OES Original equipment supplier