DellisL

Hello, I am a newby with a problem on a 2006 Maxima. While driving normally, the CEL begins to flash at about 1700 rpm in 3rd gear or higher. The light will flash until 50 mph and then reappear when slowing to a stop as it gets below 20 mph, no throttle angle at all. The code is p0300. The car has 116,000 miles on it and I have replaced the plugs and coils with the recommended parts. Just because it had the originals on it. The plugs were clean, no carbon, the coils weren't oily and probably will be used in the future for diag on other cars.
When the light is flashing, the vehicle gives no sign of missing at all. On my scanner, I can see the 02 sensors and the af monitors. all four, read rich when the cel is flashing. As soon as the sensors go lean, the flashing cel goes out. (note) after two or three road tests, the cel remains lit, yet still flashes when the codition occurs).
The cars runs great all the time but I am wits end and with the code and having no evidence of its meaning..
Any help would be appreciated
Dellis

DellisL

I just want to add one thing. After the cel has became constant. Freeze frame data shows short term trim, b1 and b2 to be 6.4 and 8.6 respectively at 1800 rpm. Longterm trim is o, both banks

maxiiiboy

I can't help you directly, but perhaps this might help:

• You have posted on the wrong forum, this is the 5-th gen forum, for 2000-2003 Maximas. You want to be posting here: https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...-2004-2008-48/ .
• My bet is that you have either a bad MAF, or a leak in the intake system.

Good luck.

Zearth

Well i dont know if im doing this correctly, if i am please pardon me, if not i hope anyone of you can help me.
I have a 2002 Maxima with the Navigation system to which i dont have a map CD and i cant control the AC.
The AC is stuck on cold and always on, to turn it off i need to unplug the AC fuse, so can i fix it?
Or can i put the normal AC controls from a normal maxima since i dont really want the navigation system.

Thanks

maxiiiboy

I don't know the answer to you question, but this should help:
- I suspect you'll be better off by fixing your system rather than replacing it with a "normal" AC, whatever it is.
- Download the FSM for your car from here: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
- The AC/Heating susbsystem is described in the HA section.
- Follow the self-diagnosis procedure (starts on page HA-43) and see what you get. It looks like your problem might be caused by a bad setting, or a bad sensor.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I rather doubt that not having the navigation CD is causing the a/c problem. But I don't know this for sure.

What I do know for certain is that you cannot get the non-navigation radio and heater controls and easily put them in. The wire harnesses in the dash are different for these 2 setups. You can modify the wire harnesses and get almost everything working. One thing that no one seems to have figured out is the the rear window defogger.

Why the a/c is on all the time is something to be figured out. Do the seff diagnostic as maxiiiboy advised and see what that tells you.

Christophe Williams

Hi guys, New to forum. Recently purchased clean 03 Maxima GLE 6 speed no dents no scratches for a STEAL. 90k original miles but still needed some TLC. Recently Replaced the Lower Control Arms due to heavy vibration in the steering wheel as well as during idle, heavy acceleration and heavy braking. Rides alot smoother now however still slight vibration under idle once the car has warmed up and as well as it still pulls pretty hard under hard acceleration to the right. However i know it is not the alignment, car drives perfectly straight with hands off the wheel. I am going to replace the tie rods both inner and outer as well as all 4 mounts hoping to resolve issue. Any other suggestions that may help with the issue? Also i only see transmission mounts for auto not manual. Are they the same? does it matter? please Help!!!!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Welcome. Usually the pulling on acceleration is a control arm bushing that is bad. Usually it is the right side control arm, rear bushing because of the power steering hose leaking oil on it and causing it to rot out. So the question is: did you replace the bushings when you replaced the control arms. I am assuming that the control arm came with a new ball joint.

Worn tie rod ends usually cause tire wear and the car will wander any time, anywhere and in any direction. Jack the wheel up and grab the tie at 3 and 9 o'clock positions and see if it wobbles. If not, the tie rod ends are good.

The engine mounts are not all the same between manual & auto trans. There is a total of 4 mounts used and only one is used on both. It is the one on the passenger side on the timing chain cover. The ones on the radiator and firewall side are different in that the auto trans version uses mounts that are hydraulically filled/drained to control engine vibration at idle. You can identify them by the fact that they have electric wires on them. The manual trans mounts can be substituted on an auto trans car, but not the other way around.

The mount on the driver's side that bolts onto the transmission is shaped some what differently between the two, so no swapping. They are hard to tell apart with the naked eye. The part number for the manual trans mount is 11220-5Y700 The number for the automatic trans is 11220-31U00.

I don't know where you are looking, but rockauto.com has the manual trans mounts. They do not offer a set of four, they are all individual.

wingsfan24

Got in a fender bender and both headlights are broken, so I'm replacing them. Already removed them from the car, but I'm unclear about what exactly I can buy to replace them.

Lots of kits for sale, like say things like "does not fit stock HID headlights." Does this mean that they are incompatible with the stock HIDs, or that they're incompatible with cars that *came with* HIDs? In other words, can they completely replace HID assemblies? Thanks!

mccrookston

New to the Forum
I have an 02 Maxima Automatic.
There is a cracking noise coming from the passenger side front of the car. Pretty loud.
The noise is not the engine since I can duplicate it when the engine is off.
It happens most when starting and stopping and hitting bumps
Anytime there is a forward or backward motion with the car. I can rock the car in park and get the same noise.

I was trying to find it tonight and thought maybe Motor Mounts.

Anyone else have this problem?

Thank you

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I rather doubt that it is the engine mounts since you can duplicate the sound when the engine is off.

My thoughts are that it in one of 2 things, strut or the LCA (lower control arm) bushing.

For the strut, it may be the strut bearing that holds the top of the strut. Open the hood and look at the top of the strut. The nut should be dead center in the round opening. If you push the car side to side, that nut will not move if the bearing is good. If the nut moves, You found the problem.

For the LCA, you will either have to crawl under the car or get it raised on a hoist. Look at the rear of the LCA where it attaches to the car body. If the bushing looks all raggedy it is bad. It will also probably be all covered in oil from a leaking power steering hose. The oil from the power steering rots the bushing (another thing to repair). You will probably need to look at the LCA on the other side for comparison.

yanksfan

I am new to owning a maxima and I just purchased an 03. I have reading a few things and I am wondering what a dr upgrade is to the automatic transmission when adding power

Saniedon

So last week I got what I am now hoping a good deal on 2000 Maxima SE. I have fallen in love with the car from the tow home. I knew going in it had some problems like starter alternator bad ground cable. Got all that changed no problem. Before starting I re checked the oil seemed used no real stand out points of interest. Checked coolant radiator and overflow bone dry, started to worry when third gallon had done nothing to level and no visible leaks at all. In the excitement of getting Delilah running (I don't know she spoke to me) I jumped it started it ran, about 10 minutes to clear out loose timing chain noise and motor sounds great let her sit and idle for 30-45 minutes no issues at all quiet as can be then a smooth decrease in Idle to stall. Started back up no issue ran for about 10mins then died, this time I let is sit for while and tried again and again fired right up. Next stall I couldn't get a restart our of it and battery died, had neighbor come over for a jump and he pulls the dipstick to 10" of light chocolate milkshake. At no point did the car over heat temp gauge went up and down as normal. So now we are at the tricky part is it A- Head gasket B- Intake gasket C- Cracked Block? Some random things to mention then get to my final question, it appears that the water\coolant is draining into the oil pan without stopping motor off, if you plug the overflow and blow into the radiator you can feel the air come out of the oil fill hole, the car sat for at least 6 months before I purchased and worked on it. My final goal is to replace the motor I understand that, what I need now is a quick get by like a head gasket repair something that may buy me a month or so to put together the swap, my question is this every product I see says in there own words you must run through the cooling system but I am sure my cooling system is not running anything as it appears the water drains straight to oil pan, will this work at all in that case even buy me a day? Also, is there any rumor to it being an intake issue over a head gasket or cracked block. I would personally rather change the motor than do a head gasket on that car, I will still be ahead with the deal I got and I like the looks of it, the car came borderline immaculate. Any suggestions would be great or any help I have had loss of pressure in a coolant system but never no pressure what so ever.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I have NEVER heard of coolant leaking into the intake manifold, so I seriously doubt that the leak involves the intake manifold.

Without taking the engine apart, there is not much chance of determining if it is the head gasket leaking or something else. If the coolant is leaking into a cylinder, you can tell this by looking at the spark plugs. Also, white smoke (steam, actually) would be coming out the exhaust pipe and it would smell sweet because of the antifreeze.

But based on what you said about the leak, i.e., how fast it leaks out, blowing into the radiator, etc., the leak is too severe for a head gasket. I think you have a cracked/broken block. Sorry.

NotYou

I am doing a 4AT to 6MT swap when time permits. I already have an '06 spec-v trans and a 6MT from an '03. I cant find the thread that was talking about FD's and which one is best to use based on wants and setup. My initial thoughts were using the complete spec-v guts with the taller 6th gear from the Max. I know there was a thread mentioning this, but I cant find it.
Setup is FBO w/SSIM and 7k RPM. Best setup for 1/4 mile is my goal. Thanks.

Izeeiz

I have a stock 02 se what should i do to make more power with boltons and is the ecu flash still available?

NotYou

Flash and tune the ecu yourself. Start here.... http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=45 or pay hundreds elsewhere.
Its not hard to learn and will save you a few hundred bucks. You can potentially blow up you car and harm someone doing it yourself, but that makes it more fun.

NotYou

Finally found it! Thanks!
https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...rbox-swap.html

VQbluebird

j8lech

I've done the up, up, down, down, left, right, (key on 7 secs, off 5 secs 3 times) to get airbag light into diag mode and can't find anywhere online what 8 blinks means?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Well, since you didn't say what year your car is, I have arbitrarily decided to look at the 2001 FSM. Hopefully the info applies to your car.

Click on this link - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/RS.pdf

The interpretation of the blinking light code starts on page 56. I think you have the "No Trouble Found" code (top of page 62).

Karlwashere123

I'm in trouble guys. MAF TB AAP ECM>>Let me start off by say thank you face.. I have faith this might help me out..

Just got an 02 max auto ( I'm learning there wasn't too many variations this year,,, well except for mine )
I couldn't turn it down. 125k, mint in and out. But the engine compartment was never washed. So i washed it. Like I did with so many cars before it.

And this is where the fun starts.

Moments after the wash I decided to add a lb.of 134a. Had my buddy jump in the front seat to get the low side down and he says " I GOT NO PEDAL"
Huh?
First it threw codes for TB. Replaced it.
Then it threw MAFS. Replaced it.
Then it threw codes for APP. (both 1 and 2)
Still nothing.. Keep in mind this hole time Im doing the pedal dance. Dead shorting terminals You name it,, I tried it.. At this point I'm like " F**k all this s**t. I'm getting a new ECM and sending all this stuff back" 2nd ECM comes (and with the new parts still on) I get No codes and I'm still locked at 1300rpm. Cant reset the ECM and it don't even flinch when I smash the pedal.
Well now I'm pissed..This thing ant gonna win.
Bring on the values.
I got 5v.at the TB. Solid ground but no pedal flip flop variation in voltage. At the APP I got my 2.5v at (64) and my 5v at my (111) solid ground and pass thru the sensors seems to be fine.

Which leads me to why I'm leaving this post. I appear to have a different harness then whats in the 800 PAGE.ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM MANUAL.
I checked the 01 02 03 04 and nothing matches up,, colors,, values,,.Nothing..This is preventing me from checking continuity and values at the ECM. I hit a wall
I will drive (push) this thing off a cliff before I rip the dash out and make my own wire harness..

!st Q: ignoring the fact that my colors don't match do I need to keep the ECM plunged in and back pined to get these values?. I only get the values at the APP and TB with it plugged in. and even with it unplugged I'm getting 13.5 volts(%200) at 74. I know that ant suposta be there..
Please help.. Ive got to be missing something...and I'm sorry this is a hard question. Hoping someones up to the challenge.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

This is interesting. Specifically the part about having a different wire harness using different colors. You are the first one to post that. Is it possible? Sure, why not? If that is true, then you will have to go by the pin numbers on the connectors instead of wire colors. Definitely makes it more difficult. You might want to consider doing continuity checks to see if the wires go to the places your diagram shows before relying on any reading you get.

Then there is your comment about the 800 page Engine Control System Manual. I have never heard or seen any reference to such a thing. So that raised a question - Is this manual an official Nissan printed document? If it isn't, that just might account for the inaccuracies.

The best I can offer is to download the Nissan FSM and check the wiring colors and things with it. You could also try the troubleshooting procedures outlined there.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/

The section IDX is the alphabetical index for the manual. Probably most of the info you will want to look at is in the EC (Engine Control) section and in the EL (Electrical) section.

Karlwashere123

I figured it out.. It was the APP values (73) (74) in the opened position dropping to almost 0v.

This is where I got my diagrams.

https://carmanuals2.com/brand/nissan/maxima-2002-4964

Mike88SE

I am new here but I have a question How long does it take to get your Official Intro Thread. New Owners, Step In. post approved and published? J/K I don't care it it ever gets published. I do have a question altho I'm sure I'll figure it out when the weather gets better. I just bought a 2001 GXE 5 speed. There is a sound from the front that's a cross between a humming and a rumbling.I first heard it on the test drive and thought I might have waited too long to shift. It sounds a little like that when you first hear it but then you can tell it isn't that at all. The noise is speed related rather than engine RPM related. I can't tell if its transaxle related or wheel bearing/race noise. I have a vid where you may be able to hear the noise.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Mike88SE

So I've wandered into a ghost town forum I mentioned all the broken links I found during my look through the repair and DIY section. Thanks for the welcome and I appreciate your input. I've got a stereo vid cam I use for recording music practice but I think you're probably right about it being wheel bearings. I'm going to go ahead and try that anyway.

Nick78

I got a 03 Maxima se v6. Blower motor started making weird noise then quit .I replaced blower motor and resistor .Now the motor will not work. There is heat coming out of the vents but the motor will not come on .what can be the problem now?

maxiiiboy

Check the fuse (the first fuse in the left strip of the Fuse Block, next to the battery).
For additional details refer to the HA section of the FSM (link in my signature below).

StephanK

So I have an 02 Maxima SE, bought it with some O2 sensor codes, drove it for a while and here I am. I bought it, drove it for a while, swapped out spark plugs and finally got the money to do the sensors. Car was driving fine with the new plugs and all the basic maintenance being done.

Swapped out both of the downstream O2 sensors with new Bosch sensors and suddenly it is running like crap at idle. Seems to smooth out at about 2,000 RPM, but still feels like less power than I had before. It does run rougher when put into gear than when in park or neutral. It also makes a random electronic sounding noise from the front of the engine bay near the transmission side of the engine, especially when switching between p/n and drive or reverse.

Ran some sea foam through all 3 ways (in tank, in oil, and in the vacuum hose) and no effect.

Looked through the forums here and replaced the PCV valve, intake manifold gasket, throttle body, intake tube (was cracked anyway) and the MAF sensor. Running slightly better, but still crappy overall. Down to like 18.5 MPG and the rear down pipe is glowing hot if I drive it too long.

Finally borrowed my brothers scanner and found bank one is running at -7 on the fuel trim and bank 2 is running at +22. Only code popping up right now is the P0300. Any ideas or previous forums that I have missed?

Mike88SE

First thing I'd do is switch out the Bosch sensors w/ Denso sensors.

HarsanArata

I just bought a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE 5-Speed manual, and I just was wondering if it would be even worth modding since it does have the VQ30DE-K.
I talked around with folks who work with modding cars and they said it wouldn't really be a good option. I also just want to know because I want to get into tuning and modding
cars so I figured why not start with this? but I just ultimately want to know if it would be worth doing it or just planning on just making more reliable.

I'll have some pictures posted tomorrow when I get the chance.
Again thanks!

Mike88SE

If you're young and have a lot of money, free time, good tools, garage, and another car to drive then why not. Otherwise I wouldn't do anything except suspension and maintenance.

HarsanArata

What Suspension components would best be to do first just who overall better handling and acceleration?

Mike88SE

It's been a long time since I was into fast sticky cars but IIRC the number 1 component of handling is always the tires. If you want to go big find some 17" or 18" wheels that are lighter than the stock wheels. And google "unsprung weight" to really understand that better. After that you have a lot of things and where you start is up to you. You will spend the most money on springs and dampers. I don't know what the favorite flavor of dampers is here on Maximas but in general it used to be Koni>Bilstein>Tokico Illumina. For springs, Suspension Techniques used to be good and may still be. Koni is better if you can find them. Some people prefer coilovers but unless you want to lower your car or do autocross you don't need them IMHO. You can research that or maybe someone who knows these cars better will offer some advice. After that it's sway bars (assuming there is a company that sell bigger than OEM), and end links. Then all the suspension bushings. Energy Suspension used to sell complete kits for most cars so you might search for that.

Mike88SE

Can someone post a pic of the drain plug for 2001 Maxima GXE 5 speed? I've found pics of other Maximas but 2001 seems to be hidden. I found this. but there's no plug there I can see.

Mike88SE

I don't recall what was in that link but it's broken anyway. I found the drain plug just where the FSM said it would be.What the FSM doesn't say is that the bolt will probably be so stuck that it will round off with an open end and you can't fit a socket in the space allowed. I loosened the shift rod bracket and moved it enough to get a box end on there and using a cheater bar, the bolt came off. Nasty smelling oil came out so it was the right plug I was only able to get ~4.5 qts in so I probably should have use half a quart to see if I could flush the rest of the old oil out. Oh well..

Mike88SE

It was probably wheel bearings but when I went to do that I noticed a lot of things wrong. Needed new inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, CV axles, struts, and I changed the trans oil while I was there. And just before I started on that I got a CEL w/ P0420 code so I replaced the bank 1 cat. Also the 5 year old battery died so it has a new battery and ground cable. Good news is that the noise is gone and the car tracks straight. I don't think it even needs an alignment unless there's a way to set caster and camber and I don't see anything off there anyway.

Mitchell Murschel

Hello everyone, today I started my car up and thought to myself I want a new exhaust setup. Ive seen some youtube videos of peoples 5th gens sounding like z's and g35's and had a raspy-ish note to them. I was wondering what I would need to do to make it sound like that. Also please post exhaust recommendations aswell. I have a 2002 Maxima SE with the vq35de motor.

Thank you all for your help / advice!

-Mitch

Juanitoelbandito

I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima that makes this weird knocking sound? There is no rhyme or reason to it, it just does it when it feels like it. Any ideas?