0440 sounds like an emissions code, possibly a cracked hose, or an emissions item not working properly

0159 and 0158 look like the oxygen sensor on the bank 2 is not working, either the sensor itself is dead or the circuit is messed up

 

The P0440 is a pressure problem. A very common cause is the gas filler cap loose/missing. Here's what the FSM says:

Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
Incorrect fuel filler cap used
Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close.
Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap.
Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve.
EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube) leaks
EVAP purge line rubber tube bent.
Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
Loose or disconnected rubber tube
EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve and the circuit
Absolute pressure sensor
Fuel tank temperature sensor
O-ring of EVAP canister vent control valve is missing or damaged

 

Hello,
I have a 2002 Maxima. Suddenly the TCS OFF AND SLIP lights starting coming on causing the call to stall. As long as it is in park it runs but when I put it in drive it stalls. I took it to Autozone and it read the ignition coil and camshaft sensor. I replaced both of them and I'm still having the same problem. Please tell me someone else has been through this and can tell me what to do.

 

How old is your MAF? If you switch to D and it immediately stalls then it sounds like a MAF issue to me. Either that or something a lot more serious like your fuel system or ignition system

 

I was installing a speaker and reconnected my passenger power locks/window control with the battery connected, and it's not working now. What can I do?

 

So I didn't get a chance to clean MAF, IAC, and TB. I'm waiting on gaskets for TB, and plan on just doing everything at the same time.

Anyhow the P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire) code came back, and it is still cylinder 1, so looks like the coil is ok. Do I start suspecting the spark plug now, or something else? Weather is no good here, so probably has to go back to mechanic instead of working on it myself.

 

So after changing the spark plugs, intake manifold gasket, and all 3 motor mounts my 02 Maxima started shaking at its warm idle. It never shook before until now. It shakes when the car is warm and shakes even more when A/C is on. There's no "check engine" light or anything. I heard something about aftermarket motor mounts may be causing it but I find that hard to belive because i changed all 3.

Does anybody have any idea as to what is going??

 

sometimes when you change motor mounts you get more NVH transmitted to the steering wheel depending on the firmness of the mounts. NVH is Noise, Vibration, Harshness. Which mounts did you use? Also, did you change the transmission mount?

Does it shake when the shifter is in D or N (or in any gear, if manual)?

Did you replace all hoses and connectors properly after changing the IM gasket?

 

The problems that I'm experiencing (see above) also happen at warm idle. According to the FSM, the light will only come on if the computer detects them twice. So, wait for it to happen; then turn off the car and remove key; wait about 120 seconds; and turn the car back on again. Light should come on shortly thereafter. I suspect a misfire of some sort would cause the shaking.

Also, you may need to do an idle volume relearn, check the FSM for the procedure.

 

Question, I've got an 01 GLE auto, when starting the ABS light is on, if I shut it off and restart it's goes off. In searching the thread I'm guessing it's a bad sensor, the threads seems to be 4 plus years old, are the sensors still a dealer only part? Can they be cleaned? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

pretty sure you blew the power window fuse under the hood , check to see if it is blown.

 

Hi all, have a year 2000 Maxima Si. The heater is blowing quite hot all the time, sliding the temp control slider to cold has no effect at all.

Its winter here now in New Zealand, but even so have to drive with the window rolled down due to heat.

Any ideas where to start? The slider does nothing, not sure if these are electronic or cable operated. Just not going off hot so unbearable to drive. Fan works well.

Any help appreciated, especially links to dashboard removal etc, or heater component location.

Thanks very much,

Mal.

 

Check in the FSM, I would start with the heater core. Not sure if it's vacuum operated or not.

 

Thank You, looks like a complicated thing to play with, I'll just leave it at the local garage..and get a mortgage top up to pay for it!

Rang 2 Nissan dealers around an hour away, neither say they have ever heard of this on the Maxima, one suggested the tap/valve under the bonnet though.

Will let you know what it was when its fixed.

 

I just bought a 2002 Maxima SE and wanted to know what sites besides this are recommend?

 

Hey guys like the title states my dads car had this code before but it was always followed by another code indicating where the fault was at, in the past I got coils from autozone and the problem always went away , but this time only the P1320 ignition system. Code comes on ... Ok so easy enough there is a problem in the primary signal right ? So I didn't have the time to mess with all that testing , I got all new coils from autozone along with two crank sensors and a cam sensor but the problem ( code) is still there , so I read some forum's that recommended me to use oem Nissan coils only , ok fine so I called my local dealer and they wanted like $700 its too much , anyways a friend of mine also has a Nissan máxima 2000 v6 I swap the coils from his car and the code came back , and when my dad drives the car it just dies, the car can idle for hours without cutting off , Now what should I do ? I'm sick of this car lol
Any advice would help a ton ! Thanks

 

Haven't been here in A while but since you got the same car ill help you .....you probably did'int need to buy all those coils imo....first you should have checked \changed all your spark plugs which is a lot cheaper. That code will show sometimes, and after A while the other will pop up indicating which cylinder is misfiring....but in your case you did'int get it yet....You did'int mention if the problem went away after but you still had code their so I figured you changed them and still same thing,so maybe its your plugs then....You said you swapped with buddy and still code came up ,so coils could be ok but plugs shot....Let me know more info on whats going on and after you changed coils with autozone ones

Don't be sick of it,these things happen to all of us lol...easy fix imo.....my Max is the best car I've owned....never left me stranded in 5 years, still A beast being 12 years old almost even tho I rarely stomp on it....keep it happy by not beating on it like a lot of people and it will last forever.

 

I have had the same problem on my car since I bought it two months ago. Mine dosn't die and runs great. Everything seems to check out. I know your pain

 

So I just recently bought a 2003 Maxima SE 6 speed. Car has 108,000 miles currently but there are a few issues. I’m getting 0450 and 1448 codes for the evap valve which I plan to replace. The main issue right now is the rattling pre cat. I brought it to the dealer for a diagnostic and he determined that the rear bank pre cat is bad and the internals are rattling around in it. The dealer quote to fix this issue was $1,150. I want this to be fixed soon but I’d like to consider all my options first.

I was thinking possibly going aftermarket on the exhaust since its so much money just for the precat. If I get headers, will that eliminate the precats all together? And is that bad for the main catalytic converter? Will not running precats cause it to fail prematurely?

I don’t want to get myself into trouble as I plan to keep the car a long time. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks

 

Cattman headers is probably the best option you could go with. They are the best headers made for the Maxima, and will end up being a few hundred dollars cheaper than the dealer quoted you. That is a ridiculous price to replace a pre-cat, and your money would be put to just as good use being set in a nice tidy pile and burned. In any case, going with headers will not cause anything to fail prematurely. In fact, while debatable, those pre-cats are more likely to cause something to fail prematurely than going with headers. The main cat will not be affected much, if any.

Congrats on the purchase mate. Hope it all works out well for you.

-Nathan

 

so ive tried searching but i was unable to locate any pictures of the part I am talking about...
so my car hit a ditch full of water I got my car back and I know my power seat is not working. My mechanic said my motor is fine but the reason it isint working is because of a little white box my mechanic showed me that says controls both seats since they are both power seats. Does anyone know what part this is i tried locating it and looking for pictures but no luck. my car is a 2003 maxima. It's a white box and inside is a green circuit board that looks like it connects to the motor itself. Thank in advance.

edit...
I found the picture. It's the white box to the left of the photo.

 

aftermarket precats less then $500 a pair or gut your precats add a O2 sim and be done.

Search is your friend for the options and obx headers is a $330 option if cost is a issue

 

Hi:
I am going to remove and install a new camshaft position sensor. I would like to know what the complete procedure is. Are there other parts that need to be removed in order to access the sensor? If you have this information please be exact.

Thanks for your time and input.

 

I don't have a Maxima but I do have a 2000 Infiniti I30 with around 162k and I am getting starter whine, it is on its way out. I was wondering what the cheapest and most efficient way to go about fixing this is. Should I try and do it myself and if so what tools do I need and can anyone send me a walk through?

If not should I just order the part through NAPA and take it to a shop? Autozone which I don't usually use to work on my cars said parts and labor I am looking at about $200 which leads me to believe the part is super cheap and the project isnt a big one.

 

my radiator recently busted along the top seal where plastic is sealed to aluminum, i am trying to purchase a new one on ebay with little radiator experience. a little help or guidance would be appreciated, i have an 02 with standard transmission, a lot i am finding say for auto trans and if not auto then transmission oil cooler (TOC) must be removed...not sure what this means. so any help would be awesome. thanks.

 

Some (if not most) radiator manufacturers only make one radiator for our cars. That means it has a transmission oil cooler in it. For cars with manual transmissions, the directions tell you to ignore the the oil cooler connections since you don't need to use them. All it is is a pipe that runs inside the bottom tank and doesn't take up very much room.

I don't know what those people are talking about. You can't take the cooler out because then you would have 2 big holes in the radiator that you would need to seal.

I would suggest you order a radiator from Import Replacement Parts Company in the group deals section. $ 106.36 shipped. Excellect radiators, I've put them in 2 of my cars.

http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...t-pricing.html

 

Autozone charges $118 for a rebuilt starter if you walk in and buy one. So they must be charging about $80 for labor. That sounds about right for one hour of labor. It's not a very difficult job.

Not all repair shops will install a part that you buy elsewhere and not through them, so ask before you do that.

 

thanks for the help, ill be sure to get on it asap.

 

So my 04 Maxima has an error code p1800 for the well known VIAS solenoid. I know the part# is 14955-8J10a, but I was also told that part# A83-600 would eliminate the p1800 code as well. I am looking for confirmation if this is true or not......can anyone help me?

 

Got my 2000 maxima last week for $3500 with only 74k on it. It needs a little work on the outside but ill take care of it over time.

Just wondering if there's a picture thread with 00-01 maxima's ? I want to get some ideas for modding.

 

Welcome!

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ting-here.html

 

Welcome to the ORG.

If you are going to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual), You should be advised that in regards to the 2000 Maxima, there are 2 different versions. I'm going to call it early production and late production. My terminology, not Nissan's. Nissan goes by VIN number and there are 4 groups of numbers.

Early production are VIN numbers up to and including YT0 12236, YT2 11680, YT5 27429, or YT7 40491.

Late production would be any VIN numbers after the above numbers.

If your 2000 Maxima is in the early production group, you DO NOT want to download the FSM from nicoclub.com. They have the FSM for the European & Middle East Maxima which is not 100% the same - especially in the electrical section.

A better website to down load from is: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

This website is by a Maxima.org member, Pmohr and is accurate.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Key-S...0fef92&vxp=mtr


QUESTION- I have a 02 SE. Would I need like the Immobilizer chip or something or is that just in the internals of the remote? Cuz the above link is just a shell so ill just gut the internals of my current remote and use this flip one. Would that work or does the 02 max have a chip in the key like the 99?
Thanks for the help

 

The immobilizer chip is in your KEY, not the keyfob. You'll have to destroy a key to extract the chip..and who knows if it will work after that.

 

crap....they didnt make a lil tray like they did in the 99

 

where can you find o2 sims bro

 

Just did an engine oil and radiator flush. Oil s doing fine. Put coolant and leak stopper in radiator after flush. The following day the car kept over heating, I kept having to pull over, open radiator cap and add more water, it's been two days now and still doing the same thing. Never had his problem before, bubble in the system? What's going on? Any ideas of what I could do?

 

BTW: it is a 2002 Nissan Maxima V6 3.5L

 

You didn't burp the system.

 

Fix it, man. Would you sell the car when you needed air in the tires? It may be an air pocket but maybe you have a leak. If you drained the block, check those drains and make sure they're closed tightly.

And why did you add stop leak?