steves01max

I have an 01 AE and my gas pedal gets stuck when im pushin down on it from time to time. I have to give it a little kick to a hard tap to get it to go down from the starting position. Could this be due to rust somewhere along the throttle cable? Ive checked inside under the dash by the pedal, nothing is blockin it, I WD40'd the throttle cable under the hood, by the pedal under the dash and the spring that supports the pedal. What could this be? Its annoying to move the pedal. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesnt but more so that it does it.

CVicVogel

Steve

Had the same problem in another car once. See if there is a "kink" or dent in the cable that prevents it from returning through the housing correctly.

Check the cable housing to see if it frayed or being pressed against an object.

good luck

Vic

oldngivout

iTrader: (8)

It is probably caused by the throttle plate going just past center position when closing. This can happen when allowed to snap shut quickly, as when pulling your foot off the throttle abruptly.

The throttle plate has an adjustable travel limiter that is supposed to limit this from happening. I have seen more than several Nissans that over time drifted out of adjustment.

This small screw looks like an idle adjustment, but it isn't. An 8mm locknut keeps it locked in place.

To fix it, first make sure the throttle chamber is cleaned of carbon deposits. The engine must be warm, otherwise the fast idle will be engaged. Then loosen the small nut and turn the screw in small increments until you can pop the throttle open by hand and have it not stick.

I know those instruction are probably vague. I am really not good at explaining stuff like this. Perhaps you can make something of it, or someone else could better explain it.

steves01max

Ok heres the situation, I changed the alternator in the car when i first bought it (they cleaned the engine bay wrong, frying the alternator). Then the ECU was replaced, no charge to me and once I received it back, this started happening. My issue is, when they changed the ECU, could that have disrupted the pedal? It seems more like something is preventing it from movin at first sometimes because it operates normally some times with just tappin the pedal like usual. If a cable is kinked or dented, can it be fixed easily or does it need to be replaced? And in regards to the fast idle speed, can that be reversed if say i decided to do this on my own?

P. Samson

If you're sure the pedal and return spring are free and working then, disconnect the cable from the pedal and pull the cable by hand and see how it "feels". (You may have to have someone open the throttle at the TB drum to give you slack in the cable). It sounds like by the way they "washed" the engine bay, maybe they somehow forced water/detergent into the throttle cable. If the cable is the problem then it's the whole cable assy. that will need to be changed. When they changed the ECM they would have been working right by the throttle pedal etc. and would have removed center console/dash panels for access. Are you absolutely sure that it's not the pedal hanging up? These guys don't sound very bright! Why did they change the ECM anyway? I don't get the connection between the engine bay washing and the ECM replacement. I wouldn't let these guys touch my car! Why are you wondering about the "fast" idle. Or do you mean that the idle is faster than before? The ECM controls the idle and it is essentially not adjustable BUT when they changed the ECM there are some basic procedures that should have been done, or the idle could be screwed up. Hopefully they didn't disturb anything on the TB?

steves01max

My air idle body control kept failing shooting my RPM's up to 1500-1700 bouncing back and forth and idling at 1000RPM when standing still. That kept dying (they changed it 3 times) until they got the code for the ECU going bad that caused the idle controls to die. Thats why they changed the computer. The washing killed the alternator. What would a TB have to do with an accelerator?

P. Samson

So the IACV (the Idle Air Control Valve is attached to/part of the TB) replacements (3), and the ECM replacement have all happened since the alternator replacement, which was caused in theory by the engine bay "washing"? And before the engine bay washing the car had NO problems? I'm assuming you mean "what's the TB got to do with an alternator"? IF there was nothing was wrong with the car before the engine bay washing and subsequent alternator change then I believe all the subsequent problems are connected to a screw up on that alternator change. I'm guessing here......but they may have disconnected the battery with the ignition ON and/or shorted the battery/alternator lead at the same time. That can kill the ECM.....OR.... on reconnecting the battery after the alternator replacement they may have had a slightly wonky idle (normal and they didn't do an Idle Air Volume Learn), and started screwing around with the TB (like the throttle stop etc.) which can kill the IACV and subsequently the ECM IACV circuit. Now I'm wondering as well if the throttle cable problem is actually the throttle plate sticking in the TB bore caused by them screwing around with the stop. So what is happening right now? The warm idle is OK or not? Does the car drive OK now? Is or was the SES light ON?

steves01max

The car runs perfect now, accelerates smooth and everything. My only gripe is that initial push sometimes on the accelerator. It sometimes is very stubborn to move and is an unsafe complication. I'm not saying the car had no problems before the washing but theres a good chance the mechanics that put the new alternator in had no idea how to properly get the car to its normal operating status. Is there a way I can check for the throttle cable to see where the TB and it connect? How much would a new cable cost if I do need one?

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Like P.Samson said, next time you have this problem remove the cable from the TB and see if it still exists in the cable.

Even easier next time it happens, pop your hood before pressing the gas. Attempt to move the butterfly by hand. If it "sticks" then you either need to adjust the throttle, or first pull off your air intake and clean the TB with a toothbrush and some carb cleaner.
If the pedal stick and you can open the butterfly without feeling it "stick" then you probably need a new cable.

P. Samson

Just be aware that if the engine is NOT running the throttle is not on the normal stop but is held off the normal stop by about 1/32" by the "start" actuator. That's the spring/vacuum "pot" actuator on the TB just above the throttle drum. To check for full travel and check for any sticking of the throttle you pretty much have to pull the start actuator and stop out of the way, or start the engine.