silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

And no, the bolts are not loose. It did it with my summer rims, and it is doing it with my winter rims. It sounds exactly like when you forget to tighten the bolts down on the wheel - it shutters/wobbles... but they are all on to spec.

I know I have some axel issues, and I am replacing them soon - but would a bad axel cause this sound? any idea what it could be? thanks!

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

very bad wheel bearing (caused by bad axle)

xnyc

iTrader: (9)

^+1. usually bad axle would cause that noise if your turning cuz of the bearings inside

P. Samson

Noise caused by the outer CV joints, noise caused by the inner CV joints and noise generated from a wheel bearing are usually totally different. Wheel bearings usually whine/moan/drone continuously (initially almost imperceptably) at speed. Outer CV joints in a slow sharp turn tend to click/creak/skrunch when they go. Inner CV joints rarely go but will click/clunk/snap on a straight ahead quick accel from a dead stop and maybe on a slow speed snap decel.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

a bad axle would make clicking and vibration noises

getbigtony

iTrader: (1)

why don't you put it up in the air and check for loose parts rather than listen to all these mechanics?
its not like they have your car right in front of them to diagnose
stick your face under your car!!

P. Samson

Putting a car on a hoist very often doesn't help in finding the cause of a noise associated with CV joints and wheel bearings. You may in fact find no "looseness" associated with these parts when on a hoist particularly in the early stages of "failure". All these parts would just about have to be "trashed", or you would have to be lucky, before I believe you would find any "looseness". These parts have to be "loaded" and the weight of the car on the wheels to isolate or locate the source of the problem. And no human can load a drive axle like the engine can! A wheel bearing can start to "brinell" and generate noise, but you won't find any looseness initially. CV joints may have only one ball and/or one small area of the "race" brinell, making it hard/impossible to locate by hand when the car is on the hoist. You drive the car, listen for the type of noise/sound and locate from what "corner" it's coming from.

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses guys - for those that told me to look at it, I have. And I took it to a shop as well. They didn’t find anything wrong with it at all. But there is obviously an issue.

So are the bearings inside the axel, or are there other bearings I need to replace? The CV joints are the areas cover by the black boots, correct?

Basically what happened is that my aftermarket suspension caused this issue. If anyone remembers Ethan (Emax95) I bought his suspension, and he had the same issues that I am now having. So there is obviously something wrong with suspension that is causing this issue.

Both my axels are now failing, which is causing a squeaking sound from the front right wheel under acceleration, and I get a severe vibration when I accelerate. I was told this is by the axels being bent, and when there is a load on the car, it is causing it to shake violently.

So I bought all new equipment. Brand new Tokico Luminas, Tien S techs, new left and right axels, and for a present to myself, I got some new rotors and pads, and some angel eyes.

So my main concern is making sure that I have all the parts I need to fix my issue before I take my car in to have all this stuff installed. Can you guys think of anything else I may need to replace? Thanks again guys

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

bump for my last post.

kukx30de

iTrader: (4)

While you are replacing all your suspension components, you may want to replace your front and rear strut mounts, sway bar bushing and end links.

That way you're going to be able to really enjoy your setup even better.

This would be true especially if you had high miles on the car.

I just did a suspension swap out on my max and I can say without doubt replacing the mounts and bushing helped a lot.