SiCkBLaCKMaX99

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys i have a problem. I have a 2001 max and i thought there was something wrong with the attery which there was so i changed it out. For one day it worked beautifully no CEL nothing. Today i go to start it up and bam the Brake light and Battery light on at the same time. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back in and stil same lights on. I decide to risk taking it around the block so as i am halfway up the block the ABS light turns on and Airbag light starts blinking, clock starts changing all types of numbers, headlights turning on and off at same pattern of blinker signals, car starts hesitating, everything starts dimming. i hear a funny noise under the hood comin from the positive battery terminal on which for some reason my car has a fuse that says 120v. so i turn the car off and try to turn it back on and bam nothing. Car will not start. I check cut-off switch to make sure i didnt turn it off by accident and try again nothing again its like the battery is real low the starter cranks very weakly but nothing after 2-3 cranks. I unplug the battery and replug it in and it starts right up. Then i drive a little and the same thing happens with the lights clock, noise on fuse near battery, etc. Please someone give me an idea on what to do i am lost. just for info car had factory remote starter. i dont know if that may have something to do with the fuse on top of positive battery terminal.

Autodude

alternator

SiCkBLaCKMaX99

iTrader: (1)

car just had full tune up and alternator changed out less than 100 miles ago. Plus the battery isnt dead it seems like it is until i unplug it and then plug it back in then bam starts right up

808MAX-SPEC

iTrader: (7)

Brake and battery light on at the same time usually indicates a bad alternator. It could be a connection issue if it was just replaced. I had my alternator replaced twice in the last five years so I wouldn't be surprised if it crapped out.

P. Samson

Without seeing it, it's hard to envision this setup but it sounds like it's a problem with that remote starter inline fuse/breaker/switch or whatever it is, on the battery pos. connection, that you mentioned. Install a temporary "jumper" around the damn thing to isolate it. Just make sure it's a heavy enough cable and make good positive connections so that you DON'T have a power interruption with the ignition switch ON and/or the engine running. Whenever you are making battery disconnections/connections make SURE that your ignition switch is OFF!

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

bad battery and OR ALTENATOR

P. Samson

That's a 120 AMP fusible link on the battery Pos. terminal which is a stock component. It is either good or blows. As you seem to have an "intermittent" crank/start problem etc. you have got to check and confirm good battery terminal connections and power supply to the starter and electrical system, which is why I suggested isolating that non-stock switch for the remote starter or whatever it is, that you mentioned was there. It isn't the alternator if the engine doesn't crank one moment but cranks and starts the next time after "fiddling" around with the battery connection or that switch, whatever it is.

madisonmxma

It sounds like there is a short somewhere. I'm not sure of the circuit protection but if there is a circuit breaker then it would reset itself after the current goes back down when you unplug the battery.

SiCkBLaCKMaX99

iTrader: (1)

i am gonna try to replace that 120a fusible link if not i am going to take it to my family freind who is a mechanic tommorow morning. it figures this happens to me right when i am going to sell the car on sunday damn oh well i guess i have to wait an extra week

getbigtony

iTrader: (1)

ok listen to all these mechanics...
go to your auto store and ask them to check your battery.
if it is brand new installed yesterday, and bad today, then yes, it's your alternator
don't listen to assumptions; get it checked
also, listen to the other guy and make sure your positive terminal isn't corroded. i had intermittent stalling because my positive terminal was corroded and when the engine wasn't running it would die because i had no juice. it was running because it was running off the power being generated from the alternator

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

i'd have to agree where did you have the remote starter put in? Probably a combination of something mentioned earlier. Remote starters have to use a lot of those components you mentioned... someone tapped into the wrong wire for the flashers too.

My opinion only though