irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Well, I got around to "fixing" the minor problems with both my Blehm stage2 LTB and the z32 brake setup. Though I love both of these mods, they both had their annoying aspects to some small extent (fitament and noise)

Brakes:
Many who have gthe z32/6th gen rotor setup have gotten the infamous "moan" when off the brakes making a hard turn. After 2 sets of calipers, different rotors, different pads, relubing all hardware, rebuilding calipers, and other things I was down to my last possibility.

To check WHERE the pad was touching the rotors when off the brakes (causing the noise) I went to a parking lot and put some lines on the rotors with a sharpie. then, only using the ebrake to slow down, I drove in various cirles in the lot and let the noise happen several times. then I looked at the rotors and saw that the pad was rubbing the outer 1 1/2" or so of the left side rotor, only on the outside face, and slightly rubbing the inner face down near the hub. diagnosis: the caliper mounting angle was not perfectly straight with the rotor, thus allowing this to happen.

the solution: I took some grade-8 washers and put them to the bench grinder to make them slighly angled (like a shim). Installed them between the caliper and the blehm bracket to angle the caliper "down" just a bit. Noise has not returned after some serious hard driving. This could also be done by dremeling/grinding similar angle on the face of the bracket itself (where it seats to the caliper). Since this noise happened with 2 completely different calipers, I can only assume that the bracket is simply cut at a slight angle rather than perfectly straight (that, or it NEEDS a slight angle and doesn't have one).


Stage 2 LTB
Most of us with the LTB2 have had the problem that the rear passenger-side bolthole doesn't quite line up, causing problems with stripping the rear bolt because it can't go in straight. After stripping and rethreading the bolt/hole several times, I decided to fix the problem.

Solution: I cut away a section of the collar that goes around the bolt (and also makes it difficult to get you socket in there) and enlarged the bolt hole outward about 7-10mm. This allows the bolt to go straight into the hole and for the socket to "get to" the bolt once it is moved outward. It might sacrifice a little bit of the structural rigidity of that corner of the bar, but my measurements and thoughts tell me that it will be just fine and shouldn't break or bend (I knew I went to engineering school for a reason!).

Anyhow, here's a pic in case you want to see.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Any pics of the washers modded and installed? I would need to do this today or tomorrow since I am leaving for school again this weekend.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

sorry...didn't think to take a pic when I did it.

Basically I just took the washers similar to the ones matt includes with the brackets and slowly used the grinder to make them angled - about 1/2 the thickness on one side as they are on the other. Then I mounted them in there in position to compensate and "tilt the caliper" outward a bit while I tightened down the bolts. hard to explain but it's really not rocket science. I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier....could have saved myself alot of money and frustration!

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Okay so I position the thin part of the washer at the top thus making the caliper go upward. Correct?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

basically you are trying to "tilt" the top of the caliper outward (toward you, if you're facing the wheel) so that it pulls the top edge of the pad away from the top edge of the rotor (and moves the bottom of the pad closer to the more central/hub area of the rotor).

damn...this is hard to explain. I might have the wheels off this weekend and take a pic.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Oh okay.



Like this right?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

yep, that looks right.

zero2sixtyZ

iTrader: (30)

Very interesting mod irish. I haven't had to remove my LTB since the install, but once I get ES MMs and other bushings, I will have to. This will definitely help. What did you use to cut the collar?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Made the long cuts with my DeWalt reciprocating saw and a fine metal blade, and then smoothed everything and made the cross-cuts and hole enlargements with a dremel. The LTB was being held in a large bench vise when I did it.

CCS2k1Max

iTrader: (2)

I wonder how much strenght is given up by cutting the collars like that. Irish, what's the white tape on the LTB for?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Because I cut the collars angled, I don't think much strength is given up, since the steel is pretty damn thick. i'll keep my eye on it, but I'm not worried.

I have also considered having a metal shop weld a larger (new) collar on it...but that's for another day.


the white tape is just covering some drilled-out rivet holes (to keep water from getting in the bar) where I was toying with putting somekind of skidplate on the LTB for
1. considered rallycrossing maybe once just for fun
2. winter...so ice-crusted snow didn't rip out the wiring on the bottom of the tranny
3. so that the bar would "skid up" over raided manhole covers and uneven dirt roads instead of hitting the bar "solid."

I had it on there for a couple months but took it off since it reduced ground clearance yet another 1/4" or so.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Hmm... glad to see you 'solved' the problem with yours. I'm 99% certain that's not the problem with everyone's cars though, as both my Maxima and 240 have had the same noise come and go over the years with various brake kits-- even including the stock brakes on both vehicles.
Maybe the mounting tabs on the spindle are bent on mine, but even that is negated by my replacing the spindles multiple times on the Maxima thinking that may be a culprit.

Dunno...

also, can you measure the distance between the rear bolt holes and the distance from each one to the front control arm mounting points on your car when you get a minute? I'm curious as to why some cars have no fittment issues with that bolt hole and others do.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Sure, I'm not denying others might have different problems. Just throwing out one solution for those who have exhausted all others (like I did...)

I forgot to mention that I also replaced both spindles with no effect. I'm now 100% sure that there was just a slight wrong taper on the edge of the brackets - I mean, the shims I used were only about 1 degree off-angle, so it wasn't very much. Please don't take it like a knock on you - we ALL appreciate your products and really....there are few performance products out there that actually fit every single maxima perfectly (I've had to slightly modify: place racing intake, stillen RSB, strut tower brace, and other things).

You're not a robot, and the brackets are made by hand...there is always a tiny margin of error there so nobody is trying to say you're "doing it wrong" or anything like that!!

yep, I'll check next time I have it up (though that will require taking the LTB off, of course )

Who knows, there could be a slight variation of tolerances at the Nissan factory, or between 5th gens built in Japan vs. USA

As you recall, I actaully have gotten 2 LTBs from you and both had the same problem with that one corner. Also have helped install one for another local guy and he had the same problem (also on an '00)

In any case, no blame here - just throwing out small tweaks to help anyone out who might have an issue - whether caused by the brackets/LTB or by something wrong with the car (bent spindle, bad caliper, etc...)



Hey.....the 2pc rotors are PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

Another solution to the LTB problem would be to hold the LTB in place through the use of zip ties. I'll try to get some pictures when I re-install it (whenever that may be)

I'm going to have to either use a larger bolt and enlarge the hole like you did or get a new subframe piece because the threads on mine have had it...re-tapped one too many times and as soon as I take that bolt out I know I won't be able to get it back in securely using the same size bolt (the LTB is off currently). However, I think the size of the collar is fine It's the front (23mm) ones that I have trouble getting the socket into.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Maybe the bracket got ever so slightly bent while welding the mounting bosses on there? Might just need a straight edge against the bracket to verify?

Utsutsu

iTrader: (6)

Nice writeup, Now if I can somehow purchase some of Matt's items I could put this info to good use.

Send me a pm when you have a chance Matt.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Irish, I'm not taking any of it personally. no product is perfect, and yes, these are all made by hand one at a time.

I haven't yet run into a bracket that's off-angle myself, and I've installed a large portion of the ones I've sold. That's not to say you didn't get an oddball set or something. I have those spacer bushings machine cut for me with tolerances in the 10 thousandths range. it's possible they're not perfectly square, but they won't be off by much. I'm in the process of redesigning the brackets to make them lighter (aluminum) and hopefulyl have them machined from one piece to eliminate all chances of misalignment. the dimensions are there, it's just a matter of finding a shop that will make them at a price I'm willing to pay (and resell).

As for the LTB, I'm guessing you guys on the right coast just have FUBAR'd cars. I've (again) installed probably two dozen myself here and haven't run into a single issue during install. Again, not to say it can't or hasn't happened, but I still dunno how or why some people have these problems and others don't.

as for the ones that have stripped those bolts (like LA02MAX), try picking up a helicoil kit before you go through the hassle of swapping the subframe. I've done that to both of my rear mounting bolts after I FUBARd them trying to install everything with an impact wrench and not starting the bolts by hand. doh. 14mm helicoil kit and 20 min of work and they were both good as new.

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

No LTB clearing Cattman Gen 3 headers... No care.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

sorry I haven't gotten back to you on anything. I'm OOS of most of my stuff, and as said in the post above, I'm working on redesigning the brackets to improve the the precision and reliability. LTBs are going to a new fab shop because I don't have time to do them myself. when I get the new stuff in stock, I'll be getting back with everyone and start moving stuff out the door.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Get someone with headers in Houston that's willing to come by for fittment and there will be a bar that fits. I've been saying this for over a year and nobody has offered to help.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

Already done. I actually have a heli-coil in there now...but as soon as I hit a big bump with the LTB attached the heli-coil slips and causes the bolt to be loose (without the LTB it's fine). I know I'll get it right one day. I had it installed fine the first time and it wasn't until it got knocked loose the very first time that I had problems, and they are persistant as hell...I would say within a week after re-tapping with a fresh heli-coil insert that corner comes loose again..Oh well I'll eventually get it permanently fixed, but right now I have to concentrate on school/work so I don't have time to mess with it.