Changing belts
08-10-2010, 02:15 PM
#42
so i'm in the middle of changing these belts. so I got the big belt off and compared it with the new belt. New belt is about a half inch bigger than old belt, I thought it should be the other way around. anyways, so i install the new belt and tighten everything up and the belt is still loose. I got the belt at advance auto parts, the dayco brand. I looked up online to see if he gave me the right belt and the part number matches. so my question is, why is this belt still loose? Please help asap
11-20-2010, 09:02 PM
#43
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 17
This is a good thread except for the lamers saying "loosen the bolts tighten the belt and then tighten the bolts." Yah, thanks for the help, smart guy.
I got in there today with the tire off, splashguard off method. All my metric sockets are long and I couldn't get those between the manifold and the PS bolt, especially with a universal attached. So. . . basically you are going to need a 14mm short socket, a universal and an extension to get to the PS bolt (between the PS unit and the manifold).
Anyway, I had the same symptoms as other guys: on cold starts a lot of PS squealing which wore off as the engine warmed (2002 BTW). Belts were both in OK condish - Gatorbacks. I have an Unorthodox underdrive pulley in there, and I noticed that the tension seemed good in both belts (just by feel, didn't measure).
What I *did* notice was a lot of aluminum residue from the Unorthodox pulley on the belts. It didn't hit me at first, but then I thought that maybe that aluminum residue was giving me some cold start slip.
Long story short: I did the WD-40 trick , which seemed to clean off the aluminum residue (or make it absorb into the belt) and give the belts some grip. So, if you are having some cold start PS squeal, I would recommend trying to condition the belts with a little WD-40 before jacking the car up and taking the tire off -- especially if you have an aluminum pulley.
I got in there today with the tire off, splashguard off method. All my metric sockets are long and I couldn't get those between the manifold and the PS bolt, especially with a universal attached. So. . . basically you are going to need a 14mm short socket, a universal and an extension to get to the PS bolt (between the PS unit and the manifold).
Anyway, I had the same symptoms as other guys: on cold starts a lot of PS squealing which wore off as the engine warmed (2002 BTW). Belts were both in OK condish - Gatorbacks. I have an Unorthodox underdrive pulley in there, and I noticed that the tension seemed good in both belts (just by feel, didn't measure).
What I *did* notice was a lot of aluminum residue from the Unorthodox pulley on the belts. It didn't hit me at first, but then I thought that maybe that aluminum residue was giving me some cold start slip.
Long story short: I did the WD-40 trick , which seemed to clean off the aluminum residue (or make it absorb into the belt) and give the belts some grip. So, if you are having some cold start PS squeal, I would recommend trying to condition the belts with a little WD-40 before jacking the car up and taking the tire off -- especially if you have an aluminum pulley.
11-20-2010, 10:09 PM
#44
Using WD-40 or any other lubricant on a serpentine belt will cause premature degradation of the belt and may lead to additional slipping. I was once told by a Gates representative if you have a squealing belt it's either time to change it, it needs to be adjusted to the correct deflection, or you have a pulley problem. Lubricant should never be required. Use at your own risk.
05-23-2011, 07:48 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 140
Thank you all for contributing to this thread. Special thanks to nsnrider for his procedures listed here. I bought both Nissan belts ($45 total) and noticed my PS belt is in very good condition, so I only replaced the "main" serpentine belt. Kbohip, I'll attempt the PS bolt from the top as you noted when I replace the PS belt probably next year.
During installation, I had better luck lightly securing the idler pulley, then tightening pretty good the tensioner, then tightening the idler completely, followed by re-tightening the tensioner. Deflection "feels" like the original did, and no squeaks or issues whatsoever.
Tks. again!
During installation, I had better luck lightly securing the idler pulley, then tightening pretty good the tensioner, then tightening the idler completely, followed by re-tightening the tensioner. Deflection "feels" like the original did, and no squeaks or issues whatsoever.
Tks. again!
07-13-2011, 07:34 AM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
I had a not so nice experience with a Gatorback belt. For some reason the cross patterns on the ribs made them really noisy, regardless of the tension adjustment. OEM belts are really not that different, price wise, compared with aftermarket; I'd stick with OEM's. Contact you local Nissan dealer and then find prices with some autoparts so you can see the differences for yourself.
Last edited by Nelsito65; 07-13-2011 at 07:37 AM.
07-13-2011, 12:50 PM
#48
surpentine belt:
1. Loosen pulley nut 14 mm from the wheel well.
2. Loosen tension from under hood with a 14 mm and about 12" extension.
3. Remove belt.
Hint: use plenty of penitrtating liquid (i.e. wd40) to prevent snapping the tensioner bolt.
Power steering belt:
1. Loosen pulley nut 12 mm from under hood.
2. Loosen 14 mm bolt that tightens the power steering pump from the rear of the pump. Will have to get to it from the buttom of the car. Jack up the car high. Remomeber to secure the vehicle.
3. Turn tensioner 12mm bolt, REVERSE THREAD, I usually usa a 1/2" 12mm with two 12" extensions and an "elbow" (i forgot how the tool is called). Get to this from the buttom of vehicle between the axle and LCA.
4. Remove belt.
Install:
Follow above procedures in reverse order.
The whole job should take you 20-40 minutes unless you snap any of the bolts/nuts than you are in some really big trouble. Remember, WD40 is your friend.
Good luck.
This is defenitly doable by any owner with some mechanical knowledge. I you change your own oil, you can change your own belts.
1. Loosen pulley nut 14 mm from the wheel well.
2. Loosen tension from under hood with a 14 mm and about 12" extension.
3. Remove belt.
Hint: use plenty of penitrtating liquid (i.e. wd40) to prevent snapping the tensioner bolt.
Power steering belt:
1. Loosen pulley nut 12 mm from under hood.
2. Loosen 14 mm bolt that tightens the power steering pump from the rear of the pump. Will have to get to it from the buttom of the car. Jack up the car high. Remomeber to secure the vehicle.
3. Turn tensioner 12mm bolt, REVERSE THREAD, I usually usa a 1/2" 12mm with two 12" extensions and an "elbow" (i forgot how the tool is called). Get to this from the buttom of vehicle between the axle and LCA.
4. Remove belt.
Install:
Follow above procedures in reverse order.
The whole job should take you 20-40 minutes unless you snap any of the bolts/nuts than you are in some really big trouble. Remember, WD40 is your friend.
Good luck.
This is defenitly doable by any owner with some mechanical knowledge. I you change your own oil, you can change your own belts.
It definitely goes faster if you jack up the passenger side, remove the wheel and the access panel. Obviously, rest it on a jack stand.
Heed the reverse thread warning for the PS belt tensioner, and you'll want an extension, and a stubby ratchet to make things easier. Soak that stuff BEFORE you lift the wheels on the vehicle to give it time to work. I have found Liquid Wrench, or the spray can version of Break-Free to work much much better than WD-40 on stuff that's corroded to that point.
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