RetroKing

I'm heading to AutoZone after work today to get the codes to narrow down as to what the problem is. Will advise my findings asap. Thanks...

jkayca

Duke,

Canadian dealerships will rip you off. Charging as much as $600 for a $100 part. I talked at length with the parts guy at my local dealership and he said they really don't have much control on the price. They get them from Nissan Canada which for some reason insists on much higher prices.

I got mine from www.courtesyparts.com. They're a dealership in Texas I think. I think though all the US dealerships charge about the same. You can install it yourself in less than an hour if you don't go for the ECU update. Most of us DIYers didn't bother. Anyway, if you do decide to get it installed at the shop the most they should charge is an hour's labor. So just ask them what their shop rate is.

RetroKing

I got the code yesterday. It is P0138. Looks like the oxygen sensor for the catalytic converter near the manifold. AutoZone priced the part at $95.00. How much labor should be involved here? An hour at the most? Seeking guidance as to not get taken to the cleaners by the mechanic. Thanks...

jkayca

I can't see it taking more than an hour to do even if they update the ECU.

towinnh12387

today when i was sitting at a light i went to go and my car miss fired and almost stalled, then it ran good for a few minutes. then 5 min later it did it again and now i cant get it to happen again? MAF? anybody

towinnh12387

oh yea also it didnt throw a check engine or anything so i cant tell that way either.

Bezzle01

add me to the maf list(86k miles), mine went out last night, got the ses code read and p1102 came up. im going to the dealership tomorrow to pick up a new maf. has anyone had any issues with using the 01 maf and changin out the temp sensor? its like a $350 difference but i dont know if theres any risk.

jkayca

Most people who have gone this route have reported success. Of course there's always an element of risk when doing any maintenance but I say go for it!

larsony

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a bad MAF to me- I also had the misfire and stall on my car (among other things).

Bezzle01

alright i did the 01 with the mod and everything seems fine. they do look alittle different, the 02 hs a second opening. i erased the ecu memory thanks to the faq guide and the ses went away. we'll see how it goes. btw when my maf went bad i was flooring it and it felt like i hit the revlimiter, then the ses came on and i had no power. it wouldnt rev over 2500rpm and i couldnt accelerate worth crap so i had to limp home. ide say 0-60 without it jerking and bogging was like 30 or 45 seconds.

cannuck

The 1995 engine suddenly started to die when I tried to accelerate from a stop light. Nissan dealer said that I needed a new Knock Sensor, complete tuneup including gas filter, and a new MAF - all for only $1600. I asked if they actually checked Knock Sensor and MAF components with a multimeter. Answer...NO!! They carged me $100 to take 4 minutes and read the ECU. Geeez!

So I installed new Knock Sensor myself (just in case) in 5 minutes ($50.00 for sensor and saved $500 bill from Nissan)...no difference - the engine continued to die when I tried to accelerate from a stop light.

So I has a small garage replace gas filter. Mechanic said - it really didn't need it - no difference - the engine continued to die when I tried to accelerate from a stop light.

Then cleaned battery terminals - eh! Car now started to run a little better! - but the engine continued to die when I tried to accelerate from a stop light.

Then sprayed CRC MAF cleaner on MAF heat sensor wires - and thoroughly cleaned everything in throat with throat cleaner (a lot of crap in there!!!) - and re-soldered the three connections from tiny MAF circuit board to MAF female connector. And cleaned all electronic male and female connectors connected to MAF.

And? Car runs perfectly now .... well lets wait a few more days to celebrate. The idiot Nissan designers sealed the top of the MAF sensor box with a "ton" of rubber - while on the same sensor box used zero sealant between sensor box and female connector. What a scam to stop people from fixing their MAF sensor solder connections. And instead try to force owners to fork over $500 for a new MAF and another $100 plus to install. Grrrr.

MacGarnicle

iTrader: (1)

so you fixed your maf sensor? this is exciting

cannuck

So far so good. But need to wait a couple of days. Previously the car would be okay for a couple of days - then back to stalling/dying. But right now car running better than it has for a long time. At the same time - the amount of gunk in the throat could have been a contributing factor as well....?

cannuck

Forgot to mention that the screen on the MAF (abs pipe) was covered with fine black "soot". Which should be impossible because the filter should be taking out all micro particulates. I didn't use a Nissan air filter - some people say after market brands don't seal well enough to air filter housing. Or is the generic (all?) air filter paper simply not fine enough to filter out micro particulates (00.50 microns)?

RabStyle

iTrader: (1)

I just got got my new MAF today. Can anyone confirm or deny that we need to have the ECM reprogrammed per the instuctions in the MAF box?

Thanks

gprisius

Should I get a new Maxima MAF versus remanufactured one with lifetime warranty for about $180

Thanks

jkayca

Do you have a 5th gen of 5.5 gen?

gprisius

Ii is a 2001 so probable 5th gen

thanks

cannuck

a) Clean all electrical connectors (male and female) going to the MAF.
b) Don't buy a new or rebuilt MAF until you take out the MAF and check heat sensor wires - are they broken? Then clean with CRC MAF cleaner. If not broken... go to c).
c) Then pry off the top of the MAF sensor box and re-solder all 3 connectors.
d) Clean throat with throat cleaner.
e) Still a no go - buy a rebuilt MAF.

By the way many brands of car let one lossen a few screws and remove and replace just the sensor for a couple of bucks. What a scam!

MacGarnicle

iTrader: (1)

you don't really notice the power loss.. it slowly deteriorates. You can tell when it doesn't pull like it should though. Had the double codes - for each bank. It was running lean. Swapped out the MAF today - wow. brought a tear to my eye when I gave her wot.

jkayca

You can get a brand spanking new one for around $100. Whoever is selling you this remanufactured one is ripping you off. If you had a 5.5 gen then maybe as a new maf for those can cost around $400.

MAX_AE

Earlier this week, the symptom my car started exhibiting was a rough idle. The RPMs would go from 700 to 400 and then back constantly. Also acceleration and deacceleration in 1st was very on and off. It was surging on take off pretty bad. I came across this thread and decided to replace my MAF. I installed a K&N about 10k miles ago, also just replaced plugs with OEMs 4k miles ago.

I bought a new MAF from the dealer ($111 w/ tax) two days ago. Came home, disconnected the battery and replaced the whole unit in an hour or so. Scheduled an appt yesterday to have the dealer reprogram the ECU based upon the little warning note in the MAF box. Also, note that I had the ECU reprogrammed last year due to the P0420 code. The dealer stated yesterday that the ECU did need reflashing even with the 420 code reflash. Another $85.

The car ran much better after I replaced the MAF (idled at a constant 700 rpm). After the reprogram it's idling at about 600 rpm, but smoothly. No more bucking and surging. But it's only been a day so we'll see how it goes after a few more miles.

hamzer11

iTrader: (2)

It's not necessary but one thing I noticed is that without the reprogram your gas mileage will go in the toilet! The power however will have you smiling. I'm gonna schedule for the reprogram soon.

Nineleven

I had to replace my MAF at around 90K on my 01 Max SE...Got the factory part brand new on ebay for $82.95 and put it in myself.

Runs like the day I bought it!

kingrukus

iTrader: (41)

What are you guys from Canada paying for this part from DAVE B shipped? Also are you running into issues with duties/taxes having to be paid?

From reading a lot of pages in this thread, it appears that my MAF is on its way out. Here are the symptoms I am getting:
-Rough Idle after the car has been sitting for many hours
-Hesitation whiles cruising for a few minutes after a cold start
-Car HANGS in 3rd gear and doesn't want to shift to 4th unless I let off the gas for a bit....is this happening to you guys in specifically 3rd gear?

I never thought that the issue of it hanging in specifically 3rd gear would be related to a MAF, but after reading here it seems like it may be...

djcallao

Sorry people , im new to the car world. What is a maf? Someone please help

jkayca

I didn't go thru DaveB but if he ships UPS be prepared to be raped. Not only will you pay GST and PST you will be subjected to UPS's "handling fee". Then you have to pay GST on the fee! With the taxes and fees I must have paid almost $200 CDN to get it across the border. Still much cheaper than buying the part from a Canadian dealership though. My advice would be to see if you can get them to ship it via USPS. Even if it's $10 more for shipping it will be worth it.

jkayca

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_airflow_sensor
Oh, and the max uses the hot wire type I think.

psk79

Hey can anyone tell me how to replace th MAFon 2000 I30/maxima? Are there instructions anywhere?

Thanks.

jkayca

Look back in this thread

djcallao

I have a problem with my 2000 max. Hoping you can help me out. As soon as I accelerate there is a loud rattiling sound. It sounds nasty. I was hoping you or anyone else can help me out. I do not know how to post a thread. So if anyone or yourself can help me out i would apprieciate it. thanks.

jkayca

There's a newbie thread for questions like this.

tumuch27

Well I bit the bullet and replaced the so called new MAF with a real new one from an online vendor and had it shipped overnight fr $125. The frickin thing lit up like it had woke up from its 4 month coma. No more hesitation or stalling. 0-60 back down to 8.5 secs instead of 13. Only thing is a week later the CEL came back AGAIN! Thanks to the free check by Autozone it's code P1550 or a bad Idle air control valve sensor. Oh well,back to the parts man.

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

Keep it on topic guys. If you have a question about a forum policy or whatever, it doesn't belong in this thread. There is an appropriate section for those questions/comments.

Nineleven

I was only speaking the truth, and we both know it


And Thx for deleting the post, now we can continue the high schoolish "you're a noob, im a member" bs

*rolls eyes*

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

Well, you'll be able once you get back in two weeks.

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

Next time, please speak your "truth" in the Feedback forum. Thanks.

LOL

Why ban me at all?


I was only being sarcastic man, lol...lighten up...

I was just tired of people being mean to each other on here just because "we" dont give them the tools to search for "repeat questions"

I think its pretty silly you jumped the gun so quick

lol *shakes head*

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

Let me clue you in on something, since you obviously don't read the site announcements or rules.

1. There is an alternate search tool available (in the stickies) - http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
2. There is a devoted thread for newbies to ask questions - http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=487272
3. Not the best idea going back and posting the same thing after it was edited by a Mod suggesting to keep it ON TOPIC
4. There is a rule that if banned, you don't re-register while banned or you will be permanently removed from the site.

I hope I have made this clear enough for you, but since you won't be coming back to the forum, I guess I probably just wasted my time

yyun

From owners posts it looks like its all pre 2k3 models that are affected, mine never stalled or hesitated still running strong not as new but strong or maybe I got used to the power and mine is 2k3 Titanium edition build in Japan.