i replaced mine about 3 months ago and it runs like a beast now!

 

I got my plugs replaced and a few days later still experienced the flutter, hesitation, etc. when I started the car after getting gas at the station. The place I took my car to for the plugs told me to check with the actual Nissan dealer to diagnose the problem. I'm thinking either a coil pack or the MAF. This is sure getting expensive. $15 per plug on my V6 plus labor and now having to check out the coils, MAF, etc. Can I still pull a code if the SEL light is not on and the car is running fine at the time? Possibly be a fuel injector, fuel pump, etc.? Thanks in advance as always.

 

~~~I HAVE A QUESTION~~~

Im going to replace my MAF on the 25th of this month, so where is the best place to buy one and is there a after market one out there? Keep in mind money is no object.

 

there is the only updates one which is 22680-2Y001 its for 00-01 i replaced few months ago and its running great. also its easy to install it comes with whole assembly so make sure you replace the whole tube not only the sensor element. then get the ECM reprogrammed by dealer. here is the place where they have free shipping.
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...ensor&dp=false

this is the website but you can click the above link too >> www.autopartswarehouse.com and on this website its called Air Mass Sensor

 

changing plugs, coils, maf on 00-01 maxima is easier than changing a tire or engine oil. i dont know why you paid labor for the spark plugs. but anyway which plug did mechanic install that it cost $15 a piece? thats just not believable because our maxima's can even run better with regular NGK's but if you dont wanna be cheap you could go for NGK iridium which cost $3.50 a piece. but $15 per plug damn. anyway your mechanic ripped you off. dont take the car to dealer because if your car is getting the symptoms you mentioned such as flutter, hesitation, stalling etc. it could definitely be MAF. there is no CODE when the maf started to go bad but there is CODE when the coils go bad. so buy a new maf which is around $105 shipping included at www.autopartswarehouse.com and get it replaced with the help of one of the ORG member. you can go here http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=42
and find your state/city and then post a thread that you need someone to help you out with the maf installation. pay few bucks to that person. ok NOW once the maf is replaced get the ECM reprogrammed by dealer that cost around $90 anyway so if new MAF solves your problem then you dont need to replace coils, or do any fuel injector cleaning. but to be on the SAFE side you can go ahead replace coils if your car has around 100k and they have never been replaced before, you can also get the help for coils from one of the ORG member by doing the samething, and also clean your Throttle body and change the PCV valve which is easy to change, all these things are (DO IT YOURSELF) AND THERE ARE (HOW'S TOO) on all these PARTS. so stop taking your car to dealers or mechanics and start searching for HOW"S TOO. if you have any question or need help just ask me or post in plublic.
EDIT: there is no WRITE UP for MAF on ORG but as i said its pretty easy. there is WRITE UP for COILS and PLUGS if you want i can get you the link. goodluck

 

Thanks for the detailed response. I am indeed a newbie when it comes to working on the Max. Professionals like yourself are appreciated in these forums. I'll get the MAF replaced and go from there. I'm gonna find out why the plugs were $15.00 each. I do remember the manager telling me I had to use the actual Nissan plugs and no "aftermarket" plugs. I will check the forum for all future references as well.

Thanks again!

 

HELP!!!

I can't get rid of the pinging noise in my 2002 maxima (90k). It ONLY pings or knocks when the engine is warm at ~1800rpm. I've replaced 02 sensors, 3 ignition coils and all the plugs, but no avail. The noise is sligthly less if premium fuel is used....still loud enough to hear....

Is it a MAF issue...or ANY THOUGHTS???? Thanks

 

stick with premium fuel for few weeks it should disapear. or change the other 3 coils if they have never been replaced. clean the throtle body change the air filter. you can also go for fuel injection cleaning. pcv valve replacement is a good option too. but if you dont feel any idle hestitation, stalling etc i dont think maf has anything to do with pinging noice. just use premium and do other 3 coils.
my car use to make the same pinging sound and premium fuel fixed that problem. i also replaced all 6 coils along with plugs and did put new pcv valve along with fuel injection and throtle body cleaning. i also replaced the maf because my maf was damaged due to its cleaning. now my car has no pinging sound and runs like a brand new car. (knock on wood)

 

i completely agree w/ OC guy - it doesnt appear to be maf - related. if you feel like you wanna try to troubleshoot the maf anyways, try blowing out the maf w/ some air - clean the screen, clean the airbox, make sure your filter is clean, etc. the maf in this car is crazy expensive. if you had a bad maf, you'll know from the feedback the first person who posted this thread was getting from his car.

 

Hey, i have a 00' maxima, i had a stalling problem at 3.5 rpm. I replace the maf, the air filter and while everything was open cleaned the throttle body.

Oh by the way had no codes coming at all. Ok after all this the stalling is gone, but the car is still not pulling like it use to. There is no hesitation anymore either pretty smooth. Now I am thinking of doing a reset, First of all how many days do u recommend for the battery to be unhooked? Over night or should i leave it longer?

Secondly, i want to get the ecu reprogrammed, is there a specific program which i have to tell the dealer? and does anyone know a nissan dealer who might do it cheaper in the GTA? that would be toronto, canada

Thanks guys. This site has saved me tons. appreciate it.

 

you can either leave the battery cable off i think its negative i forgot but you'll figure. or you can go to autozone and erase the code with OBD code reader. you have to reset the ECU if SES light is active otherwise theres no need for ecu resetting. and for ECM reprogramming you can go to any nissan dealer and tell them that you have replaced the maf and they will reprogram the ecm for you. you dont have to worry about any "specific program" because the techs knows what they have to do. once the reprogramming is done i believe you will feel diffrence in MPG and little diff in performance. when i replaced my MAf i went to dealer next day for the ecm reprogramming. so dont delay it. and since you have done quite alot i would suggest that its also better to change PCV valve and replace the air filter.

 

Well you should always use premium fuel but I don't know if that combined with a new MAF will help.

 

There's been a lot of references on part # 22680-2Y001 as the upgrade for the MY00. Courtesy Nissan lists the part # 22680-VQ30D and it seems to be the same part. Fits "04/1999 up to 06/2001 Maxima 3.0 liter engine (VQ30DE)". Looks like this is the part I need to order, my SE build date is 4/2000. Can someone confirm this is the "updated" part? Thx.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22680-VQ30D

 

That's the part. Shop around though. You maybe able to get it cheaper than $110 Courtesy Nissan is charging.

 

check this out. cheaper than courtesy with free shipping.
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...ensor&dp=false

and this is the same maf that courtesy has and its undated one.

 

Hey, thanks OC, jkayca, appreciate the help. Nice pricing, will look there for future orders. I'm due for other maint items - plugs, filters, etc. - but the SE still runs strong at 80K, considering I've raced it on 3 track days at WSIR and Cal Spdwy .

 

I have a 2001 i30 with 65km on it. The power of the car has totally gone down and is very weak .Almost feels like my 95 avenger with over 200k. The idle is even different. Could this be the maf? I was told it could be because I have been using a cheap aftermarket air filter. The engine sounds like it working hard when I press down on the gas but there is jsut no go to teh car. Its noticably louder then it used to be. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I almost though I had an exhuast or cat problem cause it seems so much louder then normal.

 

I have thought for some time that my symptoms of lack of power around 2000-3500 rpms sounded like the MAF problem every1 is having, but I have noticed everytime I disconnect the battery to do other work, when I connect the battery and drive it around all of the sympoms are gone...then after a few hundred miles the symptoms slowly return. I have the manual 6spd and someone told me that it is easier to feel a failing MAF with a M/T than with an A/T...can any1 comfirm this?
I have an 02 with the AM600 MAF, but have not had the ECU reprogrammed. Anyone know what the stealership charges for this?

 

if your maf has been replaced without having the ecm reprogrammed then you are assuming it right. the reprogramming cost around $95 at dealership. and for short term procedure you can also try disconnecting the negative battery cable for overnight and see if the symptoms persists..

 

I bought the car used with 55k on it, so I doubt the MAF has been replaced, and from what I have read the AM600 is a better MAF and later model 02's came stock with them. But I heard that nissan has created a new program with better fuel maps (whatever that means), which suppossedly would fix the lack of mid range power issues commonly mistaken as a failing MAF. Can anyone shed some light on this.
Thanks for your input

 

After experiencing EVERY symptom (OK, most symptoms) described here, I looked up David, at South Point Nissan (see previous posts), and ordered the upgraded MAF sensor for my 2000 Maxima SE, 72k miles. It only put me back $93.00 (including shipping). I haven't had the ECU reprogrammed yet, but the improvements are instantly noticeable - no more cold engine stalling or warmed up engine experiencing "stutters."

One quick note (I hadn't heard n-e-1 bring this up yet), but my Max, before installing the new MAF, on "medium" acceleration, would "drop power" at about 50 MPH (3200 RPM), almost like the feeling of the auto-tran ready to change to the next gear but not, quite getting there as crisp as the lower gears. I used to think this was a normal consequence of installing the Injen CAI.

However, after replacing the MAF: problem gone. Now, with medium acceleration, RPM goes to 5000ish before surrendering to high gear. Not to sound too cheesy, but, thanks for those who've shared their knowledge on this thread - really saved me a big, costly headache.

 

Had my 2k2 MAF replaced - car runs like new. I was not getting a code, but replaced it anyway, best thing I ever did.

 

i changed mine and it was a big difference alot better accel

 

Start at the beginning.
2000 maxima A32 engine. Mobil 1 since 5000km, uses no oil, no water, just drinks petrol (oh well).
Been like this for 3 months.
Mis-firing, sluggish, auto wouldn't upshift on hills, no oomph over 3500rpm, rough idle, stalls on stopping and dies when trying to take off again.
Full engine service - it was due - 175,000km. 40,000km since last service, oil just starting to turn brown.
So new plugs, filters, oil. Drove it out of the shop. Next day it was running on 5 cylinders. Tried 5 dealers & 3 auto-elects to get it diagnosed and fixed 2 days before a long weekend. Useless bas**rds. No one interested.
So I took it home and removed the coil cover, clipped an oscilloscope ground lip on the block near a coil and touched the probe to the iron of the coil. The inductive pickup was enough to get a clear picture. No2 coil was shorted turns. Took 4 days to get a replacement. Fixed that one.
Still had the sluggishness and lack of power. No upshift ??
Had the transmission serviced and the computer interregated - no fault codes.
Booked the car for a dyno check then went looking for help
Managed to find online the service manuals. Studied.
Read this forum for 4 hours.
Decided that the problem must be the induction manifold tuning valve (was working) or the MAF.
Priced MAF from Nissan Australia AU$973 (work it out at US$0.72) ouch.
Refurbished - AU$370
Wreckers AU$220
You pay at autopartswarehouse.com OEM US$99.
So I got brutal. I unscrewed the security screws and levered the module out if the housing, took it to my bench and carefully sprayed it with no-residue, electronic circuit board cleaner
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...=&SUBCATID=277

Put it back and went for a drive.
Beautiful. No dead spots, lays rubber in first & second, revs to 6,000.
Transmission changes smooth.

To think that I could have paid $300 for the dyno/labour and nearly $1000 in parts.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Best day this year.

But tomorrow a new tyre. I cut the sidewall when I tapped a curb doing a U-turn a few days ago..

Ray.

 

good story ray.. just be aware that the cleaning might only be a temp fix, as symptoms might slowly start to creep back,...you might want to look into getting a new maf,.. also.. please take into consideration when u buy a new one buy it for a 2001 not a 2000,....

also .. FYI from dealers here they are about 100$ US ... idk what the exchange rate is but you have to be able to find someone that will ship international...

 

i think MAF is my problem..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIaAWKVRwV4

 

Just replaced the MAF on my 01. Classic symptoms per this thread -- rough idle and stuttering on cold starts for about 60 seconds after start-up, pinging under load, and a SES light on the dash. There was a loss of power all across the rpm range too, though I didn't notice it until I replaced the MAF.
I ordered one from Dave B for $84, replaced it, left the battery disconnected overnight...wow, what a difference. It really does run like a new engine and the SES light's gone too.
Thanks to all who have posted regarding this topic. What a painless repair.

 

I replaced my MAF and ran 110% better. Except on cold weather days it still bucks if the car is cold still. Just the way the car is I guess. Doesn't happen often so I can live with it.

 

I also replaced my MAF and it run much much much better. I have that new car feeling again. I can't wait to drive on the highway.

I am still not satisfied, I want more torque and power. Installing the new MAF has me thirsty for more excitement.

 

I am going to replace my MAF this week on my 2001 Maxima. Will I need the tamperproof T20 Torx or just an ordinary T20 Torx to remove the sensor? Any help is appreciated.

 

can you use 00 sentra sr20 maf? from what i heard they are the same.

 

This is what I got after replacing the stock MAF on a 2000 Maxima GLE:

 

Just got the shop to install the new code. Cost $96. They put the wrong code in at first (23710-2Y178) but made it right. The new code that was installed was 23710-2Y179. This 2Y179 is an update for the 23710-3Y162 code that is called for in TSB NTB01-036a.

 

Can you get to the bottom 2 screws from inside the airbox to remove the MAF. Just got an MAF and trying to figure out how to do this, and realized the bottom left screw(going to airbox) is damn near immpossible without a socket extension and some tricky hand work. I want to replace the whole unit, if you want to give me a hand Im in queens,ny will drive to you though!

 

You need an extension for your ratchet to get at those. In fact, you'll probably need a couple of extensions! Save yourself the trouble and just replace the sensor itself, not the tube thingy it's attached to. You need a torx bit to do it though.

 

OK I replaced the MAF and still have the problem!! ie car stalls on start and can't hold idle which causes the engine to stall especially when coming to a stop. So far I have had the TB cleaned as well as the IACV, and now the MAF replaced. It still stalls. I also got the P0505 code meaning the idle control system. PLease help I am running out of ideas short of getting a new IACV and/or taking it to nissan.
ALso I forgot to add that I only had the battery disconnected for 2hrs while I was installing new MAF. Would having it dissconnected for 24hrs help.

 

2 hrs should be enough time to reset the ECU. Sounds like you need to replace IACV rather than just clean it.

 

i managed to get the screw/bolt on the bottom right side of the MAF without an extention.. but i couldnt get the one on the left.. i ended up trying to take out BOTH the airbox + MAF.. i heard something crack and i was really scared that i broke something.. :P i ended up breaking off that one corner that was still bolted on.. then the reinstallation is straight forward.. rebolt the new MAF onto the airbox.. and put the little rubber sleeve on it and spray some Teflon Lithium White Grease on the end going into the throttlebody.. thats pretty much it...

for some reason i couldnt get the little plastic like "RAM Air" thing off that connects to the airbox..

it also helps if u take out the battery... it doesnt take overnight to reset your ECU (00-01) just disconnect the battery and press your brake pedal to drain the remaining power from the car.. then wait 2hrs or so just to be sure.. and itll reset, atleast thats what i did..

 

Since there are 17 pages already talking about the MAF maybe somebody can chime in on my situation. I replaced the MAF a year ago, followed by the coils/spark plugs more recently and now I'm getting symptoms of a bad MAF again!! On part throttle the car chugs and stumbles, sometimes violently, until it gets to a normal temp. It's not the coils because that was a whole different feeling and the engine doesn't sound like a Subaru. By the way the car has a stillen intake, if that makes a difference. Any ideas?

 

and i'll i'm hearing is maf.
i have a 2000 auto.
this is the story. i was going to do the vais fix and was testing out if my car's was not working correctly. so i unplugged it and i did notice that with it unplugged i HAD more power after 5000 rpm..weird. drove home in it. didnt plug it back in. then later i had to go pick up something and as i was leaving my neighborhood and going, i decided to try to hit 5000 again, so i didnt floor it all the way, just halfway...then my car died. it was like turning off the car while driving..you lose power to brakes and steering. as i look at the speedometer, all the lights turn on, ses, cel, battery...??!?! i try to turn the car on, and it does start. however after 2-3 seconds, it begins to sputter and die. when pushing on the gas and turning on the car, it only dies faster.

is it maf? i dont think it has anything to do with the unplugged plug. it seems like the car is being starved of something.. like when i did the seafoam cleaning, when the engine was in idle and about to die.
i've heard MAF from .org, alternator from my friend, bad sparks and a blown transmission.

need help please.

edit.
car starts now. however, i cannot rev past 2000-3000. basically, its still obsolete. MAFS for sure now?