zmaxuser

my mechanic cleaned the maf, it ran better for a little bit...now the rpm drops some, even on drive..do you guys think i need a new maf?

Z Man

Thanks for the info. That all sounds reasonable to me. Actually, as a follow-up to my post that you quoted, after giving the new MAF some time to settle in I have noticed a big drop in fuel economy. For years I have consistently averaged about 80 miles for every "quarter" tank measured by the fuel gauge. I say "quarter" tank because when the gauge hits empty I still have a few gallons left. Now I am only getting about 60 miles for every "quarter" tank, and that is not acceptable to me. As I originally stated, I would be willing to live with a small drop in fuel economy but by this measurement I am losing about 80 miles between fill-ups and I don't think it's due to any special winter blend gasoline. Yikes! I am now seriously thinking of having the ECU reprogrammed.

If anyone else who has replaced their MAF would care to share their gas mileage experiences (better, worse, or equal), I would greatly appreciate it. Please include whether you've had the ECU reprogrammed.

Thanks!

jkayca

Yep. Definitely experienced a drop in fuel economy after replacing the MAF. I used to get between 550 km and 600 km on a tank of gas. Now I barely get over 500 km. I'm going to try resetting the ECU again. My SES light was still on during the learning phase. I don't know if its a factor but it worth a shot.

Edit: Forgot to mention that I did not have the ECU reprogrammed

rexdogg

hey,

i have a wierd problem too !!! I recently had a check engine light on and decided to disconnect my battery to get rid of it. Well after about an hour of disconnection I reconnected the battery and started my car. The CEL went away......but after driving the car I noticed a huge lag and it was like my max would not shift properly. WTF??? So I disconnected my battery again but the problem persists. What is the matter with my car and why did it happen after i disconnected my battery? By the way its a 2000 max SE and has 60000 miles on it. O yeah and I was in cold weather when I was doing it if that matters.

thanks

Omar

I just got off the phone with Dave and I must say, he is the man.

I bought my MAF for my '00 I30 for $91.11 with shipping. My Infiniti dealer here told me $125.

Dave was also helpful whereas my OLD dealer wasnt.

Thanks Maxima.org for the help.

I should have it by Tuesday and will let you guys know after I install it.

Again, thumbs up for Maxima.org and Dave.

Thanks,

Omar

mdjtlj

Greetings,

Just ordered the MAF from Rusty (works with Dave) for a 2k2 for 389, dealer here in Houston (Gillman Nissan in Richmond) wanted $525 plus approximately $400 for labor (MAF and EGR). This is outrageous, I'll spin the wrench myself for that kind of cash....

5MGE

Prior to replacing my faulty MAF I was experiencing 600kms to about 52 litres (~9.2 l/100kms), I have a 5 sp. by the way. After replacing the MAF and getting the ECU reprogrammed, I am averaging about 10L/100kms city or about 520 kms for 52 litres. This makes sense because the bad MAF was making the engine run lean, and as a result a pinging noise was heard under load.

Hope this helps.

5MGE

Omar

I just installed my MAF and oh my god...its such a beauty. Shifts like butter. Accelerates like new.

Im in love again.

P.S. Thanks DaveB.

Thanks,

- Omar

2000MaxGLE

iTrader: (1)

Greetings all,

Just returned from the dealership here in Wisconsin (Rosen Nissan in Milwaukee) with a new MAF installed in my Max!!

Heres the story: I bought the car about one month ago with 84,400 miles on it. When I purchased it, the SES light was not on and the car performed, what I thought, was fine. Well, as luck would have it, about 2 weeks ago, the SES light came on and the car began to rough idle and drive when started, especially here in cold a** Wisconsin. Took it to the auto parts store for a readout and up popped a code 10100 - MAF sensor. After a couple of days, took the car down to Rosen Nissan for a diagnostic and it was ascertained by the tech that the MAF sensor had indeed taken a dump. Waited one week for the part to arrive, dropped the car off today as scheduled and got it back in great shape. For the diagnostic, new MAF sensor, air filter, ECU reset and some loose belt tightening to get rid of that dreadful cold-start up "whining" sound was $450, including labor charges. I snap a fine Marine Corps salute to all the .org members who went through this themselves with their Max's; all the insight provided by your experiences provided me the knowledge I needed to keep from getting screwed by the dealership. Thank you. As unpleasant as the experience may have been, the cars runs and feels a hell of a lot better than it did before!!

2000MaxGLE

jkayca

Wow $450 but I guess they did fix something else besides the MAF. How much was the part itself? Also, let us know if your fuel efficiency drops off.

ZeRo MaX

iTrader: (4)

Just got my MAF replace and it roars like a beast now with the Berk intake... i hit up to 6k and it's like a lion... i love the quick response now... still seems a lil slow in shifting but it could be the tranny :X

20max01

Will a bad MAF cause weird gear selection feelings , up and down in a short RPM range while driving at around 30mph?

makdaddy386

Not sure...check the stickies to get more input, but I do know that a completely blown MAF won't let you go above somewhere around 2500 or 3000 RPM's. Don't quote me on that though. And for reference, try to not jack any more threads as done here. This thread isn't a good example but your gonna get flammed if you post off topic per the title. Just some advice to ya before getting banned.

BODKAx3BEPb

Glad to hear that!

smguest

This forum just saved me from taking my 2K Maxima SE to the shop and most likely spending a lot of unecessary money to fix a poor performance problem. Thanks to everyone for contributing to this thread. I thought that I would contribute my story just in case there is someone browsing the forum tonight just like I was last night.

I've been suffering some of the described symptoms, but mainly I noticed somewhat of a hesitation / drop-out in acceleration around 3,500 rpm (I have a manual). This has been a nuisance for probably about 8 months now but my mileage was still good, it idled just fine, and there was no SES light so I didn't jump on it. When I recently replaced the starter (@91K miles), things got worse. I guess removing the airbox (with the MAF sensor) somehow upset it even more. With the throttle fully depressed (in neutral), the engine would only run at approximately 3,000 rpm but half throttle would give about 5,000. That wasn't providing enough acceleration to get on the highway so all of a sudden I was motivated to find the problem.

I checked things out the best that I could and felt pretty confident that my O2 sensors were good, injectors were good, timing was good, spark/coils were good, and for a while thought that the MAF was good.

Last night I browsed through this forum and was completely convinced that I had the dreaded MAF problem. Today I purchased a new MAF, installed it in 10 to 15 minutes, and finally have my old Maxima back.

So I guess the only question now is to watch the mileage and see if there will be any reason to go to the dealer for the ECU update.

Thanks again.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I just went to my dealer and got a new MAF for about $100.00. The part number is #22680-2Y001. Just wanted to show the difference between the two in a couple of pics. The new one has a larger element than the one from my 2000 SE.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/440972

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

So general consesus is that the ECU reprogram simply changes your fuel trim/ a/f ratio settings, etc??? Basically only the information that your car is constantly monitoring and constantly changing anyways.
The way I am understanding this is they change no information on the prom, no software updates, or anything that is permanent? Wouldn't this be the same as a reprogram after an 02 sensor? Totally worthless and a complete waste of money since your ecu will change it to the correct settings after driving it a few miles anyways? If so why would they recommend it??--Maybe I missed something, if I did please correct me?

Most vehicles use the MAF as an input to your ecm and TCM (transmission control module). On electronically controlled transmissions it helps determine load and throttle position.(depending on vehicle, some use tps and maf), so if your tcm has bad or irratic (1v to 3v back to 1v etc) maf readings it will do things like increase/decrease line pressue turn shift solenoids on/off etc...
so in theory-yes the maf could do that.
I figured out a way to quote without bumping my thread from the last post
EDIT: someone moved my post....

dafertilizer

iTrader: (8)

So has anyone determined if the reprogramming from the stealership is necessary?
just ordered my new MAF from Dave B (he's the MAN) and plan on doing the 12-hour battery disconnect thing, but want to know if the reprogramming is a must?

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

I just called 2 dealerships and asked them exactly what it did.
I asked was this just an ecu reset adjusting fuel trim, a/f ratio, etc or was an an acutal software update.--He said it physically uploaded new software into the prom. (programable READ ONLY memory). I asked him if he was 100% positive that it didn't just change information that the ecu will alter anyways. I told him a had a Mastertech and would verify that the software # in the prom was updated and I would double check it when I got to my shop. (I don't have a Consult II that can do Nissan specific things.).. He told me to hold, verified that it was in fact an update and changed prom software.---But he didn't know what....Not sure if this helps or not?

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

What did the other Dealer say? You said that you called two dealers.

What did you mean by that last sentence? What didn't he know?

IMO, if you have an older Maxima, say a 2000 and haven't had an update, it may be a good idea to get one. I have a 2000 Maxima and had a transmission shifting probel a few years ago. When I took it to the dealer, they updated the ECU and the problem was fixed.

When I called the dealer last week to ask if I would need another ECU update after installing a new MAF, they told me no, NOT AT ALL!

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

The other dealership pretty much said it is a prom (or e-prom whatever nissan has) update. What I mean by the last sentence is that it does actually change the software in your computer. (Your ecu is "programmed" to take inputs from map, maf, crankshaft sensor, tps, 02, knock sensor, etc. It then takes this information and sends the information to other components such as the fuel injectors, coils, tcm, advances/retards timing etc.).
The ecu also takes this information and leans or riches your fuel ratio as well as other stuff. There is something known as fuel trim- short term and long term. For emissions purposes the vehicle trys to run @ a 14.7:1 A/F ratio. When it detects a lean ratio (say 16:1) it will keep the injectors open longer to add more fuel)..the short term fuel trim will change. After the short term changes long enough, it will in turn change the long term trim...After you fix the problem that caused the vehicle to run richer than normal the 02's will realize that this increased fuel trim is now to high and the ecu will lean it out..your short term will change immediately, but the long term can take a while to get to the correct A/F settings, but eventually will correct itself, inturn fixing your lean/rich problem..I was basically asking if it reprogrammed the ecu to the correct settings, because it will do that anyways if you unplug it or drive it long enough, or if it actually changed any of the software information.
Basically changing the software will change the output information it sends. Lets assume for example all input data to the ecu is identical in both scenerio's and your current software is version 4.001.02.34 and it gets updated to 4.001.02.39..
Lets use this theoratical situation for example : 35 MPH, WOT, Second gear.
Now lets say your old software figured once you hit 42 MPH it will shift you into third gear and bumped your timing to 25 degrees...with the new software it may change your shift point to 46 MPH and advance your timing to 32 degrees..-They aren't sure exactly what it updates, but it does change the software in turn changing the way the ecu outputs information. They seem to be 100% certain of that. I haven't changed my MAF yet so I can't say for sure if their is an imrpovement, and haven't reviewed opinions yet either, but if it where my car I would probably do the update just to be on the safe side. . I hope this answers your question. If not or if I confused the hell out of you I appologize I'm really tires right now. I have temp custody and courts coming up, so I'm stressing....If this doesn't answer please be a bit more specific.

BTW : you probably didn't need the update after changing your MAF because you are probably updated to the latest version.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Totally cool , thanks for taking the time to explain.

dafertilizer

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, thank you for doin the research 5thGen.. Much Appreciated

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm. Ok I just read another post about getting a ecu update after changing an 02 with a code of p0140....after I verify if is the sensor, and not the cat, i'll be taking it in for the free update. (8/80,000)....This leads into my question...When they update the ecu will they automatically update me to the latest pcm software???--I guess this would cover my maf update as well correct??--
I would assume so.. or is the latest software updated and maf updated seperately?

ratha77

iTrader: (6)

it's hard to say....either one or the other

5spd2000SE

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2000 SE that I put a K&N filter in two days ago, and today I started the car and it had the SES light on and was idling horribly. From the FAQ's and this post, this definitely sounds like a blown MAF, assuming the SES light comes on when this happens as well. So, I plan on taking it to the dealer I bought it from for the extended warranty (Chevy dealer) to have it replaced, but I am going to put the OEM filter back in as well. Anything else I need to do so there's no way to tell that there was a K&N in there? Also, will the ECU need to be reprogrammed? Part of the reason I'm taking it to the Chevy dealer is I don't have to pay the $100.00 deductible for the extended warranty, and I also work at the same dealer, so I'd prefer to take it there. Any reason that I would need to take it to a Nissan dealer? Also, will it hurt it to drive it?

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Most dealerships have their own version of the vetronix's "mastertech" or "tech2"...Nissan had them make a specialized scan tool that has all the normal vetronix's capabilities...However only Nissan's "consult II" tool has the Nissan specific output/program capabilities to actually change the software in the ECM....So if your Chevy dealership actually has a "consult II" then yes they can do it...Otherwise THEY will have to send it to Nissan's dealership and more than likely they will have to cover your bill. (Depending on warranty)..
..They will probably just replace the maf and tell you they can't/won't update your software...At this point I would have the TSB in hand and tell them they need to reimburse you if you take it to Nissan or they will have to send it to Nissan themselves if they don't have the consult II and the most recent software.

SpottyJ

Chevy has thefollowing corporate bulletin out advising of the use of excessivly oiled air fliters as they can damage the MAF. if a filter is over oiled it can leave an obvious residue on the MAF.

IMO - If the MAF is oil-free, you're fine. If you're concerned, perhaps a gentle spray of some electronics cleaner is in order. Remember to clean off the inside surface of the MAF and surrounding areas so that no oil residue is detected. And if you applied the little MOD stickers, you get with the product, remember to remove those too.


Here is K&N thoughts: K&N Warrenty Notice

On the point of excessively oiled filters, that is what the bulletin says and that is black and white. However, the concern that some have is the fact that you have one of these would cause some dealers to pause and others to use it as a reason not to offer a repair under warranty. Just the thought of having to fight with a dealer, right or wrong, is not something that many are comfortable doing.

5spd2000SE

iTrader: (1)

Ok. Thanks. Do you guys know the TSB number, and will it hurt it to drive it at all? Thanks again.

SpottyJ

As listed above:

04-07-30-013A - (Jan 25, 2005)

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

I don't think that it's gonna drive. At least mine didn't when I forgot to tighten the mass air meter hose clamp and the MAF slipped off.

Good Luck!

GrAfiX

Hey all, this is my first post here but I've been lurking for about a week trying to determine what my cars problem is.

Symptoms
1. Car will not rev past 4000 RPM unless I let off the throttle a little then will go up to 5500.

2. Shifting is really rough and usually have to let off the accellerator to get it to shift. I think that spawns from the RPM problem though.

3. Car will die when in Nuetral or park and now more recently when in drive.

4. Idle is really up and down from 500rpms to 1000rpms.

5. The SES light does come on and if I reset it then it comes back almost always 2 starts later. But no code is thrown except if it dies while the computer is attached it will throw code 1320 (Pending). Ultimatly I think it throws the code because the engine died not because the Coils are bad but what are your opinions on that?

I've read lots about the MAF but most people say if it goes bad you can't rev past 2500 or so. Also I read a bunch about the coils being bad. I have replaced all the plugs but not the coils only because if I run without a plug attached it has very different symptoms the engine runs really rough and shakes which it does not do with the current symptoms.

I did just order a new MAF from Courtesy parts but won't be here till the end of the week probably. In the mean time I'm trying to figure out if it's something else.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks In advance

Charliejag

Sounds like your maf is dying, but not dead yet. I would recommend replacing it now. If you have had your car more than six months, I would recommend it anyway. Mine dies about every eight months.

GrAfiX

Thanks, Charliejag

I should have the MAF I ordered by the end of the week. I will report back here if it fixed the problem.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Every eight months? That's insane.

maxima57O

If your MAF dies every 8 months, there must be something else wrong that is causing it to die. Every 8 months for windshield wipers would be a lot, let alone an engine part.

greg02max

For '02 owners:

I just got off the phone with Dave B. I got the MAF sensor ordered for $91.61 shipped. This is the 2001 model MAF and I just need to do a 2 second electrical piece swap off my original MAF.

NOW, for those wondering about "Do I need to get my ECU reflashed?" For 02 - 03 owners the answer is NO! if you get the 2001 MAF." When you tell Nissan to reflash it, the computer asks what MAF part # is on the car now. THERE IS NO 2001 MAF PART NUMBER THAT THE 2002 WILL RECOGNIZE which by default makes the reflash USELESS.

So that is the answer in that senario. $91.61 not a penny more.

75Bronco

What wire did you have to change to get the '01 to work greg? If the previous owner had the computer flashed to see the new one (doubtful) will the '01 still work??

GrAfiX

Well I have good news, All my problems are gone and then some.

After replacing the MAF my car now will rev up to redline in an instant. Also Shifting is smooth as butter. The crazy thing is I've had this car for a little over a year and it's never had this much accelleration and power. Now it will throw my head back in the seat doing 75 on the highway and pushing on the gas.

Oh and I'd like to thank Courtesy parts. I ordered my MAF late saturday night and it got here Wednesday with only the Priority mail option. I was in shock especially since I didn't get a shipment notification till Tuesday morning.

Thanks to everyone for thier help!

greg02max

75 Bronco-

I'm sure if your car has been reflashed that it will make no difference but I'm not a Nissan tech.

When you get the 2001 maf, remove your 2002 maf. Remove the sensors out of both housings, (requires a torx bit) and compare the two sensors. You will see a diode looking thing on the side of the 2002 but not on the 2001. The 2001 has the spot for it however. Remove it off the 2002, put it on the 2001. Put it back together. Took me 35min, hands washed, tools put away. Hope this helps. Dont forget to remove the rubber piece on the 2002 maf and put it on the 2001 maf.