View Poll Results: yes or no.
get them
13
27.08%
dont get them, cheasy
35
72.92%
Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll
MAF replaced, feels like new!
02-13-2006, 06:16 PM
#161
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by GrAfiX
Hey all, this is my first post here but I've been lurking for about a week trying to determine what my cars problem is.
Symptoms
1. Car will not rev past 4000 RPM unless I let off the throttle a little then will go up to 5500.
2. Shifting is really rough and usually have to let off the accellerator to get it to shift. I think that spawns from the RPM problem though.
3. Car will die when in Nuetral or park and now more recently when in drive.
4. Idle is really up and down from 500rpms to 1000rpms.
5. The SES light does come on and if I reset it then it comes back almost always 2 starts later. But no code is thrown except if it dies while the computer is attached it will throw code 1320 (Pending). Ultimatly I think it throws the code because the engine died not because the Coils are bad but what are your opinions on that?
I've read lots about the MAF but most people say if it goes bad you can't rev past 2500 or so. Also I read a bunch about the coils being bad. I have replaced all the plugs but not the coils only because if I run without a plug attached it has very different symptoms the engine runs really rough and shakes which it does not do with the current symptoms.
I did just order a new MAF from Courtesy parts but won't be here till the end of the week probably. In the mean time I'm trying to figure out if it's something else.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks In advance
Symptoms
1. Car will not rev past 4000 RPM unless I let off the throttle a little then will go up to 5500.
2. Shifting is really rough and usually have to let off the accellerator to get it to shift. I think that spawns from the RPM problem though.
3. Car will die when in Nuetral or park and now more recently when in drive.
4. Idle is really up and down from 500rpms to 1000rpms.
5. The SES light does come on and if I reset it then it comes back almost always 2 starts later. But no code is thrown except if it dies while the computer is attached it will throw code 1320 (Pending). Ultimatly I think it throws the code because the engine died not because the Coils are bad but what are your opinions on that?
I've read lots about the MAF but most people say if it goes bad you can't rev past 2500 or so. Also I read a bunch about the coils being bad. I have replaced all the plugs but not the coils only because if I run without a plug attached it has very different symptoms the engine runs really rough and shakes which it does not do with the current symptoms.
I did just order a new MAF from Courtesy parts but won't be here till the end of the week probably. In the mean time I'm trying to figure out if it's something else.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks In advance
I don't have a clue as what to do, I replaced all the coils last year around this time. I had a chance to clean the MAF Sensor few weeks ago, car seemed to run better for a day or so, SES light went away and then came back on.
I am thinking about changing the MAF, however, what are the chances my catalytic converter could be bad?
02-14-2006, 08:09 AM
#162
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2
Originally Posted by Stingray99
Same here Teflon. When my 02 se started having seriously long delays(only 10,000 miles) between shifts, I brought it to the dealer. They said it was a bad MAF and replaced it under warranty. It was like driving a totally different car.....very powerful and the tranny shifted like butter. A night and day defference.
I have noticed in my car that it has a noticeable drop of power in between change of gears on my auto. You think thats maf related? Besides that the car feels normal. Throttle response is fast, gets moving on initial punch. Its just between shifts its like the motors just dies and then wakes up again. Opinions? Possible maf, just an auto tranny problem?
02-14-2006, 01:31 PM
#163
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 498
I just voted in the pole. Much to my dismay I let the dealer do it because I have an extended warranty from Nissan (It did not cost me a dime). Dealer dignosed it Friday afternoon and gave the car back for the weekend. Dropped it off on Monday and had it back Monday about 4:45 PM. MAF was bad AND the warranty covered it along with the ECU update. Total cost = $0.00!!! and the dealer shuttled me around on Friday and Monday for no cost. Imagine that ... a Good Nissan Dealer!
WOW... it's a totally different car and pulls harder than before. Like the intial post, the MAF was getting progressively worse.
Travis
WOW... it's a totally different car and pulls harder than before. Like the intial post, the MAF was getting progressively worse.
Travis
02-20-2006, 10:14 AM
#164
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Originally Posted by jkayca
Does the I30 have the VQ30DE engine? If so, you can probably use the same MAF as on the 00-01 Maxima. I ordered mine from Courtesy Nissan. It came with both the sensor and housing. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22680-VQ30D. DaveB's phone number is listed somewhere on this site if you want to contact him directly.
02-21-2006, 11:04 PM
#167
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 53
2001 MAF on a 2002 Maxima
Greg,
I am going to order the 2001 Maxima MAF Meter from Dave B tomorrow from South Point Nissan. What is the part number for the MAF Meter for the 2001, is it 22680-2Y001? I read in the earlier posts of this thread that someone posted two different part numbers.
How is your Maxima running now that you have the 2001 MAF with the 2002 diode swap? Please post your results. My Maxima has been having this gear-changing-revving issue for a few months now. Thanks!
I am going to order the 2001 Maxima MAF Meter from Dave B tomorrow from South Point Nissan. What is the part number for the MAF Meter for the 2001, is it 22680-2Y001? I read in the earlier posts of this thread that someone posted two different part numbers.
How is your Maxima running now that you have the 2001 MAF with the 2002 diode swap? Please post your results. My Maxima has been having this gear-changing-revving issue for a few months now. Thanks!
02-22-2006, 03:53 PM
#168
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 227
sputtering androtten egg smell
last night i felt the first time a possibility that I need to replace the MAF. It was sputtering for like 10 minutes even after I put it gear and drove it. it also smelled like rotten eggs. I then got sick of feeling it and the car was warmed up so i floored it and then it went away. The rotten egg smell was the only thing that made me wonder if it was something else other than the MAF. has anyone else had that happen before? I am the second owner adn I dont know if the MAF has ever been replaced. I have 106,000 miles on it too. How could I know if it has been replaced?
02-22-2006, 05:04 PM
#169
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 434
Originally Posted by wanaMax
last night i felt the first time a possibility that I need to replace the MAF. It was sputtering for like 10 minutes even after I put it gear and drove it. it also smelled like rotten eggs. I then got sick of feeling it and the car was warmed up so i floored it and then it went away. The rotten egg smell was the only thing that made me wonder if it was something else other than the MAF. has anyone else had that happen before? I am the second owner adn I dont know if the MAF has ever been replaced. I have 106,000 miles on it too. How could I know if it has been replaced?
02-26-2006, 10:32 AM
#173
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,113
Awhile back, when my car was still whithin warranty, the car woudn't start on the first try, so I brought it into nissan and and they replaced the MAF for free..........Not that I wouldn't have wanted to do it alone, but why spend the money when its a falty piece
.
They also put a newer vertion of software into the ECU, to make the car run better.
The rotton egg smell is sulfer..........and the cat is supposed to remove that!
.They also put a newer vertion of software into the ECU, to make the car run better.
last night i felt the first time a possibility that I need to replace the MAF. It was sputtering for like 10 minutes even after I put it gear and drove it. it also smelled like rotten eggs. I then got sick of feeling it and the car was warmed up so i floored it and then it went away. The rotten egg smell was the only thing that made me wonder if it was something else other than the MAF. has anyone else had that happen before? I am the second owner adn I dont know if the MAF has ever been replaced. I have 106,000 miles on it too. How could I know if it has been replaced?
02-27-2006, 08:09 PM
#174
The problems I'm having (no power over 5K) seem to point me toward the MAF but the VIAS mod has the same symptoms. Has everyone who experienced greater performance w/ the new MAF also done the VIAS mod? Is there a difference in symptoms?
I have a 2K w/ the following symptoms
No power after 5K (there could be power there but my car won't get there)
No shifting after 5K unless I let off the throttle
Weak acceleration over 50 mph
Any thoughts on MAF vs VIAS?
I have a 2K w/ the following symptoms
No power after 5K (there could be power there but my car won't get there)
No shifting after 5K unless I let off the throttle
Weak acceleration over 50 mph
Any thoughts on MAF vs VIAS?
03-03-2006, 05:18 AM
#175
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 9
Well I'm pretty sure you guys diagnosed my car for me. No power, at all. Weird shifting. heistating and stuttering. Rough idle, no response from gas pedal, stalling.. I also get poping under the hood when its about to stall out and I try and give it some gas.
I got a quote from Dave B, the usual prices. I went to Nissan of North Olmsted to get a quote and they said $175 just for the sensor.. Seriously, what on earth is going on there.
I got a quote from Dave B, the usual prices. I went to Nissan of North Olmsted to get a quote and they said $175 just for the sensor.. Seriously, what on earth is going on there.
03-03-2006, 03:22 PM
#177
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 30
Hello.
I have a 2k Max(Auto) and I was having all of the same symptons that others have described. I changed the maf about 2 weeks ago and the car drove great for about a week, then most of the symptons came back. I would like to know if anyone could help me solve my problem. I have tried everything that I can think of and I have read through every post in the 5th gen forum regarding the maf.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2k Max(Auto) and I was having all of the same symptons that others have described. I changed the maf about 2 weeks ago and the car drove great for about a week, then most of the symptons came back. I would like to know if anyone could help me solve my problem. I have tried everything that I can think of and I have read through every post in the 5th gen forum regarding the maf.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
03-03-2006, 05:01 PM
#178
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 434
Originally Posted by KeithV
Called a few more dealerships.. got a few that quoted me $400+ for the same part number. When I told them about the $80-100 prices they said it would be the wrong part.
*sigh*
*sigh*
03-04-2006, 09:28 AM
#180
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 434
Originally Posted by KeithV
I have a 2000
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22680-VQ30D
03-06-2006, 07:21 PM
#182
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 53
Replaced my MAF today
I finally replaced my MAF today and it appears the power that made my Maxima take off is back =).
I ordered the 2001 MAF for my 5.5 Maxima.
Tools:
10mm ratchet bit, Torx set, philips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver (for removing clamp), mini-flat head screwdriver, small long nose pliers, rags (wipe your hands), light
Got my 2002 MAF and removed sensor. I used the torx set to remove screws and the little screwdriver to pry the sensor out. Used the long nose pliers to gently twist the metal contacts to remove the diode. Installed diode in the 2001 MAF sensor (contacts for it) and used pliers to press the metal contacts to 'bite' the diode in place. Put the sensor back into the 2002 MAF body. I didn't re-use the 2002 MAF body but I could have and it has the 2002 part number on it in case I ever have to take it to the dealer.
This step is not required if you just replace the MAF sensor element using the same 2002 body:
I removed all about 7 10mm bolts that hold the airbox in place and I loosened the clamp that holds the MAF. Pulled out the airfilter box and removed the 2002 MAF meter using the 10mm bit and removed 4 bolts. I installed the replacement 2001 MAF in my 2002 Maxima and bolted the airbox back in place
It now revs hard again without the hesitation. Too bad it was raining.
I hope this fix lasts longer that two weeks like some people claim. Also, I still have my check engine light on. I am not sure if I should reset my ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal on my battery? Does anyone still have their CEL on?
I ordered the 2001 MAF for my 5.5 Maxima.
Tools:
10mm ratchet bit, Torx set, philips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver (for removing clamp), mini-flat head screwdriver, small long nose pliers, rags (wipe your hands), light
Got my 2002 MAF and removed sensor. I used the torx set to remove screws and the little screwdriver to pry the sensor out. Used the long nose pliers to gently twist the metal contacts to remove the diode. Installed diode in the 2001 MAF sensor (contacts for it) and used pliers to press the metal contacts to 'bite' the diode in place. Put the sensor back into the 2002 MAF body. I didn't re-use the 2002 MAF body but I could have and it has the 2002 part number on it in case I ever have to take it to the dealer.
This step is not required if you just replace the MAF sensor element using the same 2002 body:
I removed all about 7 10mm bolts that hold the airbox in place and I loosened the clamp that holds the MAF. Pulled out the airfilter box and removed the 2002 MAF meter using the 10mm bit and removed 4 bolts. I installed the replacement 2001 MAF in my 2002 Maxima and bolted the airbox back in place
It now revs hard again without the hesitation. Too bad it was raining.
I hope this fix lasts longer that two weeks like some people claim. Also, I still have my check engine light on. I am not sure if I should reset my ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal on my battery? Does anyone still have their CEL on?
03-06-2006, 11:41 PM
#183
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 53
Test drive...
It appears that the replacement MAF improved performance a little bit but I think the new MAF is already acting up.
When I first installed it, the Maxima felt powerful but after another test drive and flooring it at WOT the needle appears to be jumping every now and then. It isn't as bad as before. The needle can now go to 4000 RPM before it redlines and then acting all screwy. It used to go to 3000 RPM and then the jerking started.
If I drive the car w/o the lead foot, it feels fine up to 4000 RPM. The acceleleration at highway speed is improved but will still appear to rev too much at times.
I'd say the replacement MAF from a 2001 with the 2002 diode swap helped improve things for my 5.5 but it did not appear to fix my issue 100%. I wonder if there is anything else wrong.
I did unplug my battery for an hour to see if the CEL would go away but I guess that works for other car brands or my CEL is something serious.
When I first installed it, the Maxima felt powerful but after another test drive and flooring it at WOT the needle appears to be jumping every now and then. It isn't as bad as before. The needle can now go to 4000 RPM before it redlines and then acting all screwy. It used to go to 3000 RPM and then the jerking started.
If I drive the car w/o the lead foot, it feels fine up to 4000 RPM. The acceleleration at highway speed is improved but will still appear to rev too much at times.
I'd say the replacement MAF from a 2001 with the 2002 diode swap helped improve things for my 5.5 but it did not appear to fix my issue 100%. I wonder if there is anything else wrong.
I did unplug my battery for an hour to see if the CEL would go away but I guess that works for other car brands or my CEL is something serious.
03-07-2006, 11:15 AM
#184
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 434
Originally Posted by rcjunkie
It appears that the replacement MAF improved performance a little bit but I think the new MAF is already acting up.
When I first installed it, the Maxima felt powerful but after another test drive and flooring it at WOT the needle appears to be jumping every now and then. It isn't as bad as before. The needle can now go to 4000 RPM before it redlines and then acting all screwy. It used to go to 3000 RPM and then the jerking started.
If I drive the car w/o the lead foot, it feels fine up to 4000 RPM. The acceleleration at highway speed is improved but will still appear to rev too much at times.
I'd say the replacement MAF from a 2001 with the 2002 diode swap helped improve things for my 5.5 but it did not appear to fix my issue 100%. I wonder if there is anything else wrong.
I did unplug my battery for an hour to see if the CEL would go away but I guess that works for other car brands or my CEL is something serious.
When I first installed it, the Maxima felt powerful but after another test drive and flooring it at WOT the needle appears to be jumping every now and then. It isn't as bad as before. The needle can now go to 4000 RPM before it redlines and then acting all screwy. It used to go to 3000 RPM and then the jerking started.
If I drive the car w/o the lead foot, it feels fine up to 4000 RPM. The acceleleration at highway speed is improved but will still appear to rev too much at times.
I'd say the replacement MAF from a 2001 with the 2002 diode swap helped improve things for my 5.5 but it did not appear to fix my issue 100%. I wonder if there is anything else wrong.
I did unplug my battery for an hour to see if the CEL would go away but I guess that works for other car brands or my CEL is something serious.
03-16-2006, 10:18 AM
#186
I am still a little unclear. On a 2000 maxima, after changing the MAF, will reprogramming by the dealer be required? Will an ECU reset be enough or will it be temporary? Also, how much does the reprogramming cost in general?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
03-17-2006, 05:45 PM
#187
Hmmm...I think i may have the same problem...
Originally Posted by Teflon
Oh my god! I just replaced my MAF tonight and took my 2000 GLE for a spin afterwards. The beast feels like I put a brand spanking new engine in there.
I don't think I've ever experienced as much power from my engine in the entire time I've owned it -- so I've probably had a slowly dying MAF for over 2 years.
The following symptoms and problems are now gone:
first syptom, 2 years old:
- momentary "stutter" after putting car in drive and giving it a bit of load after a cold start (as if it skipped a beat)
started a bit later on:
- brief dip in power/acceleration at 3500 rpm
didn't notice it until the MAF was replaced:
- sluggish response
more recent problems, as the MAF got worse:
- surging, stuttering, stalling
- intermittent P0171, P0172 codes
- rough idle
- variation in engine power and performance at constant speed
- requires "babysitting" after cold start to convince the ECU not to stall out
- ODBII reported fuel trim >= 8-10% on both banks at idle, with occasional long term trim at 25%+.
My ECU reprogram is scheduled for tuesday morning. I realize I don't require the reprogram, but I presume there's new fuel maps for the updated sensor, which will only help power and fuel economy.
Short term and long term fuel trim are now both at -8 to -10%! That's quite the change from before. My air filter wasn't even particularly dirty when I replaced the MAF.
Thanks Dave B! You were dead on about it being the MAF. PS - Fedex got it here this morning, in one piece. They're even sending the GST/PST (taxes) bill seperately which means it didn't get delayed at Canadian customs.
YAY!
I don't think I've ever experienced as much power from my engine in the entire time I've owned it -- so I've probably had a slowly dying MAF for over 2 years.
The following symptoms and problems are now gone:
first syptom, 2 years old:
- momentary "stutter" after putting car in drive and giving it a bit of load after a cold start (as if it skipped a beat)
started a bit later on:
- brief dip in power/acceleration at 3500 rpm
didn't notice it until the MAF was replaced:
- sluggish response
more recent problems, as the MAF got worse:
- surging, stuttering, stalling
- intermittent P0171, P0172 codes
- rough idle
- variation in engine power and performance at constant speed
- requires "babysitting" after cold start to convince the ECU not to stall out
- ODBII reported fuel trim >= 8-10% on both banks at idle, with occasional long term trim at 25%+.
My ECU reprogram is scheduled for tuesday morning. I realize I don't require the reprogram, but I presume there's new fuel maps for the updated sensor, which will only help power and fuel economy.
Short term and long term fuel trim are now both at -8 to -10%! That's quite the change from before. My air filter wasn't even particularly dirty when I replaced the MAF.
Thanks Dave B! You were dead on about it being the MAF. PS - Fedex got it here this morning, in one piece. They're even sending the GST/PST (taxes) bill seperately which means it didn't get delayed at Canadian customs.
YAY!
1. Rough idle/slash stuttering after going into Drive from a cold start. After it warms up its fine.
2. Around 3500 RPMs it just feels strange, like the car is catching a different gear or something after about 3500. It gets this sudden harder pull around that RPM range.
3. I seem to have lost power overall. My stock 1/4 mile times were 15.6ish at around 87-90 all motor with NO MODS on stock 16s and now the best Ive run all motor is around the same time and same trap with 18s (could be the 18s but I figure I should be running better either way.) With spray im pulling down a 14.4 at around 97-100 with 18s.
I dont know...the first 2 sound like the same prob u guys had. Im at around 140K miles on my autotragic 01. I thought a bad MAF would cause the car to go into limp mode?? Anyway...Ill try changing it and see what happens. How can I get in touch with Dave B and about how much can I get a new MAF for???
03-21-2006, 03:06 PM
#189
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 434
Originally Posted by d-max01
hey guys new to the org.my 2k1 hesitates at cold start and sluggish, feels like loss of power. Do you think it could be same symptoms? I was reading posts, read about Dave B. How could he be reached to get parts?
03-23-2006, 01:38 PM
#190
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 54
Hi,
I am experiencing somewhat same problem with my 03 Maxima.
If i pick up the car from a start then it would pick up nicely but if i am going at 30 and press on the gas, than its kind of sluggish. Also i think the engine is making more noise.
I took the car before to the dealer for some other problem and told them to check the engine also for loss of power.They checked the engine and told me that they didnt get any error code. So do u guys think the MAF could be bad with the car not throw any error code.
Thanks
Faisal
I am experiencing somewhat same problem with my 03 Maxima.
If i pick up the car from a start then it would pick up nicely but if i am going at 30 and press on the gas, than its kind of sluggish. Also i think the engine is making more noise.
I took the car before to the dealer for some other problem and told them to check the engine also for loss of power.They checked the engine and told me that they didnt get any error code. So do u guys think the MAF could be bad with the car not throw any error code.
Thanks
Faisal
03-27-2006, 06:43 PM
#192
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 17
What's the final verdict on your 2002 MAF fix?
My 2002 Max is at a Nissan Dealer. They called today to tell me it needs a new MAF & air filter. Total cost for parts & labor & reprogramming is over $700.00. I have to give them an answer in the morning. I have spent the last few hours reading all the posts. Recent posts by rcjunkie seem to indicate less than perfect results from replacing just the bad 2002 sensor with a new 2001 sensor. I'm not sure what to do. Try this fix or just bend over and let the dealer have at it. Help. PS. This is my first post on any forum. Please excuse any rookie mistakes.
03-28-2006, 06:04 AM
#193
Originally Posted by KeithV
MAF Replaced.. feels like new!
Seriously.. I got my new MAF for my 2000 today and in about 15 minutes I went from barely running to more power than I remembered having to begin with.
I'm happy, once again
Seriously.. I got my new MAF for my 2000 today and in about 15 minutes I went from barely running to more power than I remembered having to begin with.
I'm happy, once again
03-28-2006, 08:03 AM
#195
Originally Posted by alpinestars
Only if you want to have a CEL. Go to your dealer and have them reflash it. It didnt cost me anything.
03-28-2006, 08:23 AM
#196
Originally Posted by hamzer11
Do you mean that I will have to reflash only if I have a CEL? You said "if you want to have a CEL." But I remember reading something about the car not adjusting properly to the new MAF readings and people getting bad gas mileage. I may be confusing multiple topics.
03-28-2006, 08:32 AM
#197
Originally Posted by alpinestars
Well, what happened to me is my MAF totally took a **** on me and I had a CEL. I bought a new MAF from Courtesy Nissan. I installed it and my Max ran like it was brand new, however there was still a CEL. I called up my "trusted" dealer and they told me my ECM would have to be adjusted to accomodate the new MAF. I took it in, they did it in 5 minutes and I was on my way.
That is what I have heard, that even if there is no CEL that the ECM has to be adjusted to accomodate the new MAF. What sucks is that in NY I am sure the dealer will charge the hour labor rate just to do it. I could be wrong, I guess I will have to call after I change it. Thanks for the help.
03-28-2006, 09:14 AM
#198
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 31
how often do you change your MAF?
how often do you guys change your MAF's....some guy earlier in the thread said every 8 months?!?
has anyone had thier MAF for a normal amount of time....a few years. I dont want to have to look forwared to replacing the MAF every year....thats not right.
I am replacing my first 02 sensor soon...the SES just went off on that. those jokers are expensive too.
has anyone had thier MAF for a normal amount of time....a few years. I dont want to have to look forwared to replacing the MAF every year....thats not right.
I am replacing my first 02 sensor soon...the SES just went off on that. those jokers are expensive too.
03-28-2006, 09:21 AM
#199
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 31
should we scrap the K&N filters then and just use a regular filter?? any suggestions on that? i had a k&n in my 240sx forever and i never had problems with it.....but if you think it might cause the MAF to go bad....i might scrap mine. what do you think?
03-28-2006, 09:45 AM
#200
Well, I am going to an intake that has the APEXi dry element filter. Its the Oil that kills the MAF I think. Before replacing the MAF check out the thread on the MAF cleaner. 6 bucks is better than 90.00-400.00 http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=463385