How long to replace clutch?
11-13-2007, 09:51 PM
#1
How long to replace clutch?
I have noticed over the last week that my clutch is slipping after a cold startup, after i warm up it no longer slips, also I notice when i change the oil have been loosing a bit......So I figure its probably not a worn clutch and that I may have a rear main seal leaking oil onto the clutch either way I have to drop the tranny and will switch out the clutch.
For those that have done it:
1. how long - do i start after breakfast or after lunch? from the FSM it looks about 2-4 hrs, not including frozen bolts... my car has had a few so far.
2. replacement clutch- not looking for anything fancy - OEM or is there something else i should look into?
3. anything else i should think about doing while the trannys out?
thanks
For those that have done it:
1. how long - do i start after breakfast or after lunch? from the FSM it looks about 2-4 hrs, not including frozen bolts... my car has had a few so far.
2. replacement clutch- not looking for anything fancy - OEM or is there something else i should look into?
3. anything else i should think about doing while the trannys out?
thanks
11-13-2007, 10:51 PM
#2
Depends on how you drive.
That's like the most important thing to consider.
Also when you replace your clutch, don't get something too dramatic - like a stage 6 clutch with an xtreme pressure plate - your clutch master/slave cylinders cannot push a pressure plate that extreme and also our tranmissions are very very sensitive, something like that will rip apart your transmission.
I personally have:
AE 5-speed tranny
Stage 1 ACT clutch with heavy duty pressure plate
Fidanza flywheel
Stainless clutch line from the master directly to the slave cylinder
I like the feel of it - feels nearly stock, maybe a little bit stiffer, drivability to me is about the same, to others they say they can "feel" my light flywheel.
Use your best judgement.
That's like the most important thing to consider.
Also when you replace your clutch, don't get something too dramatic - like a stage 6 clutch with an xtreme pressure plate - your clutch master/slave cylinders cannot push a pressure plate that extreme and also our tranmissions are very very sensitive, something like that will rip apart your transmission.
I personally have:
AE 5-speed tranny
Stage 1 ACT clutch with heavy duty pressure plate
Fidanza flywheel
Stainless clutch line from the master directly to the slave cylinder
I like the feel of it - feels nearly stock, maybe a little bit stiffer, drivability to me is about the same, to others they say they can "feel" my light flywheel.
Use your best judgement.
11-14-2007, 04:32 PM
#4
no, 2nd it got replaced while my car was in the body shop back in 2004, i got in an accident and they burnt up what was left of the OEM clutch moving the car around w/ one of the wheels frozen-crushed int the wheel well. they put a new one in for me but i have no idea what kind
11-14-2007, 06:27 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,113
no, 2nd it got replaced while my car was in the body shop back in 2004, i got in an accident and they burnt up what was left of the OEM clutch moving the car around w/ one of the wheels frozen-crushed int the wheel well. they put a new one in for me but i have no idea what kind
11-14-2007, 07:57 PM
#8
114K on the original clutch. Showing some signs of being worn, but otherwise, still strong and doesn't allow slipping (a little vibration engaging first and second gears when cold).
11-15-2007, 08:46 PM
#10
It took me about 2.5 hours to do this job. I have done several before. Maybe I could have gone faster, I don't know. I used a lift, tranny jack and air tools. Your results may vary depending on lots of factors, but it really isn't a difficult job for a mechanic.
11-16-2007, 06:28 AM
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Start after breakfast . . .
If you are doing it on your own it's a lot of work. I'd say it will take you most of a day realistically if you are the typical DIY guy who does it at home.
If you REALLY know what you are doing, and you have a lift - you can do it in 2.5hours IF everything goes right. But, if you are like me and go slowly to make sure you don't screw something up, it takes a while. I assume you have good air tools with extensions to get the axles.
The biggest thing is whether you have a lift. I think the worst thing is that it is a PIA to manipulate the tranny under the jacked up car. That sucker is heavy.
One word of CAUTION. If you search this forum, you will find a thread about people with starting problems that occur after a clutch swap. The contact between the tranny and the engine is a major ground point. You must make sure to properly prepare the surfaces of both. If you don't, you will end up with a starting problem and have to run ground wires all over your engine bay (ask me know I know . . . go ahead . . . )
If you are doing it on your own it's a lot of work. I'd say it will take you most of a day realistically if you are the typical DIY guy who does it at home.
If you REALLY know what you are doing, and you have a lift - you can do it in 2.5hours IF everything goes right. But, if you are like me and go slowly to make sure you don't screw something up, it takes a while. I assume you have good air tools with extensions to get the axles.
The biggest thing is whether you have a lift. I think the worst thing is that it is a PIA to manipulate the tranny under the jacked up car. That sucker is heavy.
One word of CAUTION. If you search this forum, you will find a thread about people with starting problems that occur after a clutch swap. The contact between the tranny and the engine is a major ground point. You must make sure to properly prepare the surfaces of both. If you don't, you will end up with a starting problem and have to run ground wires all over your engine bay (ask me know I know . . . go ahead . . . )
Last edited by Max_Gator; 11-16-2007 at 06:31 AM.
11-29-2007, 11:31 AM
#14
took me abou 6 hours. it was the first time i have done it. i also replaced my rear main seal. pretty easy job. i didnt put enough gear lube in the first time i did it so i blew my tranny so i had to replace that to. (very expensive mistake) but if you know that your rear main seal is leaking you should replace it while your in there. i have a stage 3 xtd and have had no problems with it and i have drivin on it for about 40k.
12-15-2007, 06:07 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,898
The contact between the tranny and the engine is a major ground point. You must make sure to properly prepare the surfaces of both. If you don't, you will end up with a starting problem and have to run ground wires all over your engine bay (ask me know I know . . . go ahead . . . )
this process sounds hard.. i thought it was an easy job for a backyard mechanic.. guess i was wrong.. lol
12-15-2007, 09:53 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 16
I have a very similar problem with the slipping that goes away after the car gets warm. My engine still stalls if I have the e-brake on and let the clutch out in a high gear (4, 5, 6), so it seems like the clutch is still good. I hadn't thought about the seal being shot! How much oil do you think you're losing? Thanks for the idea, hope it fixes it all. I'm thinking about having the same done now (No lift, don't want to mess this up)...
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