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Dynamat - front or back?

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Old 12-25-2007 | 12:11 AM
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Dynamat - front or back?

I just did the housecor rear deck rattle fix and have 2 2/3 strips of dynamat remaining. I think this is enough to cover the majority of either the front or rear doors, but I was curious which would do more good as far as both silencing road noise as well as improving sound. Would it do any good to put equal amounts on each of the four doors?
Old 12-25-2007 | 08:13 AM
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REAR




(both of those on both rear doors)

You already have the deck, so you may as well "seal" it a little more by doing the rear instead of the front and having a "gap"

.02

Maybe Santa brought you more so you can do both!?
Old 12-25-2007 | 10:07 AM
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Did the doors cut down much road noise? I would imagine your sound improved as well.
Old 12-25-2007 | 10:07 AM
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Even without a system, I am considering Dynamat to reduce road noise. Probably do trunk lid and doors.
Old 12-25-2007 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by n3985
Did the doors cut down much road noise? I would imagine your sound improved as well.
The sound difference was HOLLY **** different! Road noise was cut down from a 7/10 to about a 3/10...meaning noticeable, and the stock NON-Bose system bumps better while holding the bass instead of all the metal and plastic absorbing it.

Originally Posted by Scottwax
Even without a system, I am considering Dynamat to reduce road noise. Probably do trunk lid and doors.
DO IT! I'm probably going to do underneath the deck and finish up the trunk in the spring
Old 12-25-2007 | 02:15 PM
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From: FightinPhilsZone
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
REAR




(both of those on both rear doors)

You already have the deck, so you may as well "seal" it a little more by doing the rear instead of the front and having a "gap"

.02

Maybe Santa brought you more so you can do both!?
WTF...how much did it cost to dynamat that door? I would love to sound deaden my car but that $h1t is not cheap
Old 12-25-2007 | 02:44 PM
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buy second skin or Raammat and save a ton. I deadened my WHOLE max from the roof, doors, floor, A,B,C, pillars, rear deck, and trunk for under $400. I'd personally do the front doors to help boost the sound of the audio system.
Old 12-25-2007 | 02:57 PM
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I did the entire trunk and not only killed some road noise but factory Bose sounded much better

I used Dynamat wanna be but still worked wonders
Old 12-26-2007 | 02:24 PM
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Dynamat helps alot but it's heavy...stuff adds up the pounds, guess at a point it doens't really matter anymore though.
Old 12-27-2007 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by unclebens14
Dynamat helps alot but it's heavy...stuff adds up the pounds, guess at a point it doens't really matter anymore though.
2 boxes of what I used weighed in a measly 22lbs...and I used a little under 3 boxes total for all that you see. not bad if you ask me
Old 12-28-2007 | 06:52 AM
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it makes sense that you should do the rear...thats where the sub is....
have fun...dynamat and interior sheet is IMO the easiest of work...
Old 12-28-2007 | 09:20 AM
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I just recently dynamated the front and rear doors after adding the rainbow slc625 conps and boston acoustics sl65 6.5's in the rear. IMO it really makes a difference when you mat the doors due to the excessive road noise. I found that no matter what volume the stereo is at, without windows cracked you really cant hear anything from the outside. Obviously this isnt the real reason for installing such a product, but i like that perk! Next is rear deck. The doors cost me $100 for all 4 from the stereo shop. It would have cost less if i did it myself, but laziness seems to rule my world since i started full time 7 months ago. Kind of off topic, but did anyone else find from the rainbow comps that there is almost no lows from these speakers?? I'm currently running the comps and the 6.5's off of a kicker 4 channel somewhere around 300 watts (not 100% though) is this an amp issue, or are the speakers underpowered? Id assume w/o dynamat the bass from these would be almost noexistent!
Old 12-28-2007 | 09:30 AM
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I probably need some of that, I have a kicker L7 sub in a massive box in the truck. It rattles like CRAZY and the box always moves and ends up going towards the lincense plate.
Old 12-29-2007 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by aventerav
I probably need some of that, I have a kicker L7 sub in a massive box in the truck. It rattles like CRAZY and the box always moves and ends up going towards the lincense plate.
ehh hehe bolt it down with some L brackets, put a thick sheet of partical board under the carpet and that will support the sub and you have a sturdy place to mount it.
Old 12-29-2007 | 10:52 AM
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i was thinking about putting this in, but isnt it like 70 lbs or somthing??!!??!?!?! hahaha
Old 12-29-2007 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dAAmax
i was thinking about putting this in, but isnt it like 70 lbs or somthing??!!??!?!?! hahaha
it's great
Old 08-10-2010 | 09:48 AM
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strong bump

but, I'm going to be putting in some sound dampening material soon. The shop I want to go to uses HushMat. Anyone know how this stacks up? Also, what would be a reasonable amount to pay to have this done. It's looking like it will be at least $200 including materials. Thanks.
Old 08-10-2010 | 09:58 AM
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this bump is as strong as it would have been likely for helen keller to become a fighter pilot.
Old 08-10-2010 | 08:46 PM
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While its already been bumped for roadnoise wouldnt one be better off with some of this mass loaded vinyl over the dynamat etc..

'1 LB TotalMass the product of choice for most of our customers. 1 LB per square foot TotalMass on its own has an STC rating of 26. That means our 1/8" MLV material almost performs better than a 2" x 4" wall with 5/8" drywall on each side of the wall.'

http://www.soundisolationstore.com/p...b-10-feet.html
Old 08-11-2010 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by GOLD00GXE5SPD
I just recently dynamated the front and rear doors after adding the rainbow slc625 conps and boston acoustics sl65 6.5's in the rear. IMO it really makes a difference when you mat the doors due to the excessive road noise. I found that no matter what volume the stereo is at, without windows cracked you really cant hear anything from the outside. Obviously this isnt the real reason for installing such a product, but i like that perk! Next is rear deck. The doors cost me $100 for all 4 from the stereo shop. It would have cost less if i did it myself, but laziness seems to rule my world since i started full time 7 months ago. Kind of off topic, but did anyone else find from the rainbow comps that there is almost no lows from these speakers?? I'm currently running the comps and the 6.5's off of a kicker 4 channel somewhere around 300 watts (not 100% though) is this an amp issue, or are the speakers underpowered? Id assume w/o dynamat the bass from these would be almost noexistent!
Im running a 3 way set of rainbows currently. previously ive run the dls nobelliums, and the germanium 465s as well as polk momos, pioneers, eclipses, kickers, jls, and others.
I am more than pleased with the output from my woofer as a 6.5 mid woofer.carries freqs that i have set for it perfectly. now if your looking for the output of a subwoofer then, i would say that yest it is lacking as it isnt a sub. but for daily duties in a sealed well deadened door, and mounted to a 1inch mdf ring im more than happy with them.
Old 08-12-2010 | 07:26 AM
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is dynamatting the trunk ne good if ur not getting ne noise
Old 08-12-2010 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nachy1
is dynamatting the trunk ne good if ur not getting ne noise
im of the ilk that deadener is deadener to a point. i watch for deals on all the forums i bounce too and when someone has a decent sized amount for a good price,,,cha ching. I recommend foam in the larger cavities, and dynamat on wide open spaces. i personally did the matting, then went with foam. i ddi this in my last car and then i linexed over it. was wonderous lol.
Old 09-11-2010 | 05:03 PM
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Should buy extra to do both!!
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