Just to share with you guys what happened to me. So my friend and I cleaned the part where the Idle air control valve is and what happened?? you guessed it.........Engine light came on along with high idling. Before car would idle @ 500rpm when in park, but now it is at 1100-1200rpm and when its cold out like today it goes to 1400-1500rpm. Yes I got the famous code 0507 abd i tryed the re-learning and no luck.....so now I am going to the dealer on Wednesday since I still have extended warranty, so I hope they will fix this problem (under warranty) and not give ME any problems. Moral of the story: Don't touch the ICV.

 

This has nothing to do with luck, you either created vacuum leak or freaked out your ethrottle. If you did the IAV relearning procedure and it didn't go away then it must be a leak. Check that you connected eveything back where it used to be.

Other people here touched and they're still fine.

 

damn thats rough...

 

Do you still have the same problem? I think mine is starting to do the same thing.

 

yup still got the same thing....high idle and SES light on. I checked and I have no leaks and not everyone hear touched and it was fine. Some people had to change there TB and ECU.....Tomorrow I got an appt at Nissan, I will let you know what happens.

 

Why didn't you take it to advanced or auto zone for a free code check?

 

 

Hey guys, just got back from the Nissan Dealer. They fixed my idle problem and the SES light, they said I had carbon deposits and they did the Idle Air Volume adjustment. All in all it costed me $86 CDN and he worked on my car for about 55min.


For those who have had problems with there 6 disc changer I am changing mine AGAIN for the 3rd time (under warranty).

 

glad to hear it wasn't an expensive fix. quick question, what kind of problem(s) are you having with your radio to warrant changing it out 3x's?

 

Well radio #1 while playing the CD it would skip. Radio #2 while playing the CD the speakers both front and back on the drivers side would not work, radio #3 while playing the CD it would skip. All these problmes were intermittent, they did not happen all the time but when they did it was F***** annoying. The problems is only with the CD player, the radio and casette work fine (mind you who uses casette's anymore..lol).

 

Glad to hear you didn't have to pay too much for the IACV. Now, about the OEM CD player, why don't you just get an aftermarket stereo? The 5th gen stereo is a poor design. No matter how many you buy you will keep having problems.

 

Hey! I have the exact same problem (p0507) after they replaced my throttle position sensor (it was bad giving me code p2135).

What exactly did they do at the dealership? I tried doing all the relearning steps but my car simply will not comply (2004 I35).

 

As for the radio I figured since I have extended warranty I will milk Nissan till the last day of the warranty. So thats why I keep on changing it. Nissan actually called me today to tell me my new radio is in, now i gotta call back and make an appt. Now if the radio screws up again and I don't have anymore warranty then I am going to get an after market 4-sure. Anywho, my warranty expires Sept 30, 2009 so I got another year.

For the idle problem/code 0507 I will tell you exactly what is written on my bill.

1- Clean throttle plate
2- Adjust idle air volume
3- Road test ok

I know that when I was looking at the mecanic work on my car and at one point he started it and a bit of black **** came out from the exhaust, but not much though. When I brought the car in I did not tell them that I tryed cleaning the TB. AFter they fixed it they told me that it had some carbon inside and they cleaned it out and that everything is back to normal.

Now, I have a question for you guys: at what RPM does your Max run at when the car is at its operating temp and at what RPM does it run at when the engine is cold? When my car is hot it runs at 700 RPM and when it is cold it starts at about 1300 RPM and goes down slowly.

 

Ok i have another little problem. Before I had the idle problem my car was displaying 15L/100KM (city driving only, a lot of stop and go). Then when i had the high idle and code 0507 my car was displaying 20.5L/100km, which I figured was normal since my car was idling higher. Now that the dealer fixed my idle issue/code and its back to idling at 700rpm, the L/100km has gone bizurk! Everyday it keeps on going higher and higher, yesterday it dispalyed 35L/100km.....i was like WTF! Today it says 24.5L/100KM. I have re-setted the display with the trip button but just keeps on shooting back up. Once re-setted it starts at 14.5L but quickyl goes up to 20L +.........you guys have any idea what this could be?

thanks!!

 

May be it's in miles/gal? Does your gas seem to run down quickly as well? It should be twice as fast according to your numbers, should be very noticeable even without that display.

 

Hey Max_5 ...its in L/km, I'm in Montreal. The other thing that is odd is that the L/KM gives me those crazy numbers, but then when I go check the DTE it tells me 375km. I filled up the other day to the max......I mean it went past the full line and no more gas was going in. So far I have done 50km and I am right now on the full line.

 

I think most of the problems with the OEM Bose sound system's are directly related to owners suspension upgrades and the firmer ride just beating the hell out of an already fragile unit! I did'nt have any problem until the initial wheel/tire upgrade to 40 series aspect ratio.....maybe it's just a coincidence.

 

I noticed, I was just thinking about this crazy idea that during your last trip to a dealer they managed somehow to switch it to miles/gal. But if the indicator says L/100km then it is in L/100km from computer point of view. Burn your full tank and calculate L/100 km the old fashion way. If it didn't get drastically worse then this is computer problem if it did then something else has changed and it shows actual consumption (well, as actual as you can get from it).

 

Anywho since it started to screw up after the last visit at the dealer I am gonna make them look at it again. I gotta go back cause my radio is in and they gotta change it. Got my appoint tomorrow morning.

 

I cant speak for anyone else, but my bose had all those problems and my suspension and wheels are stock. I am 99% sure that the guy who had it before me kept it completely stock too.

 

BUMP...so while replacing my plugs last week monday night 11.10.08 I also cleaned out my TB, but instead of opening up the butterfly valve and spraying TB cleaner down there, I sprayed it on a towel and wiped the sides clean. My TB wasnt all that dirty, so I didnt spend too much time on it. Anyhow, after finishing with the plugs, I started up the car and noticed the SES light. I went to AutoZone and had the code pulled; P0507. So, I have done the relearn and it worked. The SES light went off and idle was lowered, but not to the normal range of 700-750 rpm @ normal operating temp., it only lowered to around 950-1050 rpm. On top of that, once I cut the engine off, and start it back up, the SES light returns. Today will be 7 days since the plug maintenance and I have been optimestically hoping that this would fix itself after a bit of driving, but no dice. I have already checked for disconnected hoses for leaks, no problems there. I assume the problem is because I was stupid and touched/opened the butterfly valve with my hands when wiping the TB out. I do not want to go to the dealership and get overcharged, but now Im beginning to think I have no other choices. Is the Consult II the only thing to get me out of this mess? I dont think I have permanently messed up my IACV and need to replace it, but Im also no mechanic. The mechanic I use for maintenance that I can not do my self is very good, but has told me that his handheld computer only does so much as the Consult II the dealership does pretty much everything and costs a lot. Should I visit him in hopes that he can fix this SES? Regardless, I will tell either my mechanic or the dealership what I have done in hopes of them not charging me a diagnostic fee. What are my options? What do you fellas think?

 

bump for assistance...

 

bizzump...