thanks for the follow up Maximo018!

 

Thanks !

 

Its kool I just been working with this damn 3rd gen so much I never got around to it. Thanx for reminding me.

 

And a lot of heat. The original o2 wire is stainless steel which is a bugger to solder. And a real bugger to make the typical western union joint that you will want to solder.

 

The chassis harness side was spliced not the stainless O2 lead! I did the stainless O2 sensor wires on my header install and it was a little hard but terrible free!

 

Awesome pics here... Good looking out!

Got questions for you:
1. How much (if you dont mind me asking) was it to do the ceramic coating?
2. What tools are crucial for the install?
3. Any tools you wish you would have had during the install?

Thanks for your time...

 

no answer???

 

Um... yeah... So what's the deal?

 

^^^ question left un answered

 

I know... and he doesn't accept PMs either.

I'd really like to get my OBX coated. I saw on youtube where a guy on a dyno had these headers so hot you could see the amber glow from the wheel well.

You can see it here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmwNY...layer_embedded

 

 

That could be a sign of being overly lean or extremely retarded cam or ignition timing. But yes the coated headers save alot of that plastic crap from heat damage such as your radiator fans! At idle you can definitely touch my coated Cattman headers! Even after 5 or 6 runs down the 1/4 mile their touchable without skin burns!

 

Was that in reference to the blowing headers? Rotorys like the one in the video are notorious for high exhaust temps anyway. But all headers do that if you load the engine high and long enough.

 

Light gauge tubing will "light up" pretty easily. Particularly with stainless steel, a thin tubing wall equals higher heat transmissivity, weaker welds, and an increased tendancy to crack.

It would be interesting to measure the tube wall thickness, and compare it to the .065"-thick tubing used in most US exhaust manufacturing.

Brian

 

The next person to drill for O2 relocation in the OBXs may be able to give us all the tubing thickness.......

I'm assuming at this point, that the Cattman headers are .065 or better.

 

wow... if your headers can withstand that on a weekly basis, as far as im concerned then they're durable lol

 

Is it necessary to re-drill the O2 sensor location if you were going to use a dual O2 sim and just plug the bung that requires relocation?

This seems like a much easier option... but maybe I still don't have a grasp on what needs to happen with all the O2 bungs and sensors.

What's the run down on this? What needs to happen with each bung location on the OBX (front header, rear header, secondaries, etc) to not get an SES or CEL light?

Thanks

 

There are exceptions (especially since steel prices have gone up), but US-made production grade headers are typically fabricated from 16-gauge steel tubing (mild or s/s), which means the tube wall is .060"-.065" thick. Large block / big power V8 applications might use something thicker, like 14-gauge material. We use 16-gauge tubing in all of the Cattman exhaust products.

Tubing used in the Chinese and Taiwanese exhaust parts varies quite in thickness. When a US-based company determines specifications for parts made in Asia, they can choose the wall thickness (and hope that when the container shows up that's what they actually get). When the Asian manufacturer sets the specifications (this also applies to some of the Japanese-branded parts that are actually made in China, like Greddy), a thinner tubing is often used, ranging from 18-gauge (.047"-.052") to 20-gauge (.035"-.038"). These thicknesses are 20-40% thinner than 16-gauge tubing.

A second variable is the polishing process, which always takes off some metal, further reducing the wall thickness. Mechanical polishing can reduce the wall thickness as much as .010". Shiny surfaces may look prettier, but since strength and heat containment are proportional to wall thickness, some of that is lost in the process.

That's probably more information about tubing than anyone wanted to know, so I'll stop now.

Brian

 

Oh snap...look what the brown Santa Clause brought me today...

 

Very nice! Pumped for you bro...

Wish i would have got the AFC with mine...

What's the next step for you? Installing yourself?

 

Thanks for the explanation. Covers the question perfectly.

 

nice, your gonna be loving it when you get it isntalled and tuned.

 

The one you have to relocate is a primary sensor...You have this part in you hand, please look closely to you product, you might as well get ready to do all your drilling and grinding to make them fit. Are you clear on the rear blank header manifold primary O2 sensor with obviously faces the firewall and where you will need th relocate the new hole just 90 degrees to the right on the passenger side! the other secondary sensor will reach the other hole so plugging them is only to fill the useless O2 bung cause you will be cutting and splicing the return wire to the ecu with the simulator anyway! You seem to keek asking about the relocation of the rear O2 bung like maybe you're still not sure what I'm trying to explain to you.
Best thing is to do a test fit (you'll need a backup car) cause you won't be driving your Maxima cause you'll see that the relocation is absolutely necessary. Sometimes the best way to learn is just jump feet first and do it...Or listen to those who have done it...It's your choice...give it a shot dude...you'll then see what I'm talking about.

 

Seems like it would be easier to extend the Primary o2 wires and plug the other 2 o2 holes if your going to be using sims anyway. Seems like less work to me.

 

anybody installed these headers using all the o2 sensors with no o2 sim???

 

IDK...but I guarantee you they would throw an SES...even if the secondaries are plugged in they have not cats to read off of. The best possible option is to plug the holes and buy an O2 simulator no ifs and or buts about it.

 

hmm... i thought if you just drilled the holes for em in the correct places all would be well

 

I'm, I speaking greek? Yes the front and rear primaries will both need to be extended...But that doesn't cure the O2 bung needing to be relocated to prevent it from sitting between the swaybar and the rack and pinion...Under extreme acceleration that O2 sensor won't be there long....it will get knocked off! Youy know the engine does move or did you forget?

 

No! Again for the 100th time...relocation of the rear primary O2 bung is all that's needed as far as drilling is concerned.

 

i understood that, i was just wondering if anyone ever just used all o2 sensors because i clearly didnt know the purpose for not using all of them (knowledge is power) we all have to learn at one point, though i know that i need to get an o2 sim, i would like to know why is that the only route...

 

You mean besides the fact that you'll no longer have precats of any kind?

You don't need an O2 sim. You'll just have a constant CEL.

 

Yes, you can plug them all into a bung, just make sure the primaries are on the primaries and the O2 simulator is installed as well and you'll look like everything is just peaches for those nosey emission inspectors that like too look further than they have to...GL

 

gotcha

 

No I understand you just fine. I'm saying FILL the secondary o2's with a bolt and simulate them thus no relocation is not needed because your not even using them. Then just extend the primary. You can tuck the o2's under the engine cover. People have done it here before with success.

 

When I installed a set of these I found no need to add any bungs. Sim's and extend the primary, I lol'd hard when I put the engine back in and saw where they put that bung next to the rack.

 

1. THE F**KED UP DESIGNED REAR HEADER MANIFOLD/YPIPE HAS THE O2 BUNG LOCATED IN THE WRONG POSITION. IT'S LOCATED @ THE REAR HEADER PRIMARY TUBE COLLECTOR AND IT IS FACING REARWARD PLACING THE O2 IN BETWEEN THE RACK & SWAYBAR, THIS THE ONLY ONE (1) BUNG THAT NEEDS TO BE RELOCATED or>
2. Plug the rear facing one and Install the sensor into the next bung down stream from it (extending the Primary O2 harness even further), and plug the next bung @ the 180 degree bend! Yeah that'll work without welding an extra bung! was't thinking about that...now the secondaries will have to be tucked up and hidden! Buy some bung plugs 2 each! I wasn't looking at it from this perpspective!

 

Wow... thanks for that bit of info. Was about to get mine drilled and relocated. You just saved me money and time!

Fill the rear header O2... plug the sensor into the next bung down the pipe...

Awesome!

This way there's no drilling, no welding, and no problems with the sensor being up against the pinion and possibly busting off or whatever.

Glad I came across this when I did!

 

haha, once you see it installed you will laugh your *** off, there's not even the smallest possibility of it even fitting in there.

 

im having a hard time picturing how you would not need to re drill???

 

Ok I installed mine Sunday...here's my impressions of them.

1. INSTALL The install was pretty straightforward especially with the info some people have posted about where to grind. I only had to grind the rear motor mount and the subframe but I still have all 4 bolts in mine...lol. I relocated the O2 sensor just to the right of the location on the headers and filled in the two secondary holes with what else...old O2 sensors!!! Then I welded a bolt onto the rear primary hole. After all the grinding and what not the rear header/y-pipe really isn't that hard to manuever up on the head, it's not heavy or anything either.

2. PERFORMANCE Whenever I put my Cattman's on last year I was expecting a HUGE gain in power and whenever I put them on I didn't feel anything and was dissapointed until I got it tuned. Well I put the OBX ones on and I wasn't expecting to feel anything but it really woke the car up, I noticed a huge difference in power...I can't wait to see how it runs after I get it tuned next week.

3. OVERALL IMPRESSIONS I thought for $350 these headers were a very good investment...I am happy with them and even though it takes a little more work on the install side I think that just the $500 you save over the Cattman's make them worth it. If you are not a huge DIY but are going to install yourself I would buy Cattman because the fitment and the peace of mind are nice. But if your not scared to do some fabricating and your on a tight budget then the OBX's are for you. Either way you will like the end result. Coming from someone who has owned both Cattman and OBX.

Another interesting thing that happened is that my SES light hasn't came on yet...whenever I installed the Cattman's the first time I turned it over it came on and I have been driving this for almost 3 days now and it hasn't even flashed in the least, I even let it set and idle for probably 30 minutes to burn off some of the power steering fluid that leaked everywhere from knocking the hose off when putting the rear header on. So I guess I'm not in a hurry to buy an O2 sim...lol. Now, am I saying you don't need an O2 sim with these headers, no, I'm just simply saying that my car for some weird reason isn't throwing a code so oh well. I'll order one the first time it throws a code.

I will post some install pics later, I'm at school right now so I have no way to get them.

-Justin (fast02max)