Not likely. I've ran catless exhaust in this vehicle with no O2 sims for a while now with no cat codes. So have other members.

 

just curious, can you still utilize the header shield with these headers?

 

nope

 

thats gona suck going into auto-x with this. i imagine by the time i get it and have it installed i will already have other things taken care of where iwill be fine in my class.

 

Pics are in!!!

Rack heat shield. Had to cut around the O2.


Rear primary O2 near steering rack's proximity. If you look to the right, you will find the closest place to re-mount O2. Will have to extend wires a couple of inches or so.


Cut-out cross member. Had to to the same thing to rear motor mount bracket.


And finally.. LTB fitment is no longer an issue..



The install will take some sottering, cutting, and modifying. Took me about 3 hours
non-stop. I do not recommend using the P.O.S. paper manifold gaskets OBX supplies. Go with O.E.M. metal. They will last a lot longer.

 

Nice pics. Is there no way around grinding down the subframe? Anyway, I'm jealous that you can have a LTB on.

 

I'm afraid not. Only the cross member though, and very minimal.

 

How are you going to extend your 02 sensor? just any wire?

 

I believe 24 guage is recommended.

 

Thank you, i've been searching for an answer for a while now. ummm...24 guage for all three wires? Just want to make sure.

 

Or see if you can find someone (who preferably works on VQs) with a parts car or at a junkyard who'd be willing to cut some of the wire off an ECM harness for you. When I extended my rear bank primary, we had a few harnesses lying around the shop so I just stole a length of wire off that to extend the plastic connector further down behind the motor so that it would reach connector on the O2 sensor. I didn't want to cut the O2 sensor wire itself because those are a pain to resolder.

 

Three wires? I assume you're talking about the actual O2 sensor wire? I would strongly urge you to reconsider. Soldering is a pain and then you face the possibility of the resistance/voltage specs being out of whack, and that can be a problem because O2 feedback is all voltage based. People have done it successfully no doubt, but IMO it is just easier cutting, extending, and soldering the single wire BEFORE the plastic connector, the one that leads to the ECM. Just ziptie the plastic connector and wire safely away from any heat sources.

 

Thank you so much for that. This makes sense to me now.... I will try this as soon as i can.

 

Nice images!

I've been trying to run down a step-by-step instruction set for the header install and came across some that I wanted to get everyone's input on.

These are from the headers thread that I made a few minor changes to and added a small bit from this thread. I believe it was written for a 3.0L originally so I wanted to know if you guys saw discrepencies or wanted to add your own 2 cents.

Any and all comments and pointers would be highly appreciated.

Here goes:
1. Remove the radiator fans off the radiator
(These are secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car.)

2. Remove the lower splash shields.

3. Remove the motor mount bolts
(They go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket.)

4. Then remove the cross member.

5. After that remove your 02 sensors
(Use a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket.)

6. Then remove the whole y-pipe off the car.

7. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold
(You will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold.)

8. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat

9. Get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold
(You are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with ease.)

10. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat.
(It all depends on how you want to do the job.)

11. Rear manifold - jack up the motor so that instead of it sitting in the engine bay like this |||| it will be sitting in the engine bay like this ///// .
(This will pivot the engine so that the rear cylinder head exhaust manifold bolts are more accessible.)

12. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block.
(The 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar to bend the support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts)

13. Remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts.
(There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block.)

14. Use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat.
(Reuse the factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers. They are metal and will not leak.)

15. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight.
(You can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs)

16. Then bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds.
(OBX are already connected to the y-pipe so just tighten the rear manifold to the y-pipe)

17. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as hell and tighten the Ypipe.
(If you tighten the manifolds tight as hell 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to because the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when you install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off.)

18. Install your primary 02 sensors.
(Using 24 gauge wire… Cut, extend, and solder the single wire BEFORE the plastic connector, the one that leads to the ECM. Just ziptie the plastic connector and wire safely away from any heat sources.)

19. Install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors
(Don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lengthened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).

 

where would I get the 02 sims?

 

http://www.google.com/search?client=...utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

Thanks Pmohr. Im just getting everything ready. going to order them on Monday. But I am going to wait till I have enough for the safc 2 to get the install going.

 

Anyone that has installed these headers have anything to add to my post below?

 

I've said this before, but I think it deserves mention again. Removing the intake manifold + elbow makes it very easy to reach the upper exhaust manifold bolts on the rear bank. I know people have done it w/o removing the IM, but it really makes things much easier.

 

Thanks... I've read that as well but didn't know if it was absolutely necessary. I've also heard that even if you just loosen it to gain some play and wiggle room it will help.

Appreciate the suggestion...

Anyone else?

 

damn it im mad at everybody gettn headers but i cant..... i need money!!!

 

I'll back you up on that.

I've run headers on my 03 for close to 5 years now without throwing a code. All 4 of my 02 sensors are before my main cat (no cats in between primary and secondary O2 sensors) and have never thrown a code.

 

Unless you've got a lift

 

I'll be doing the install with a lift at a Lincoln stealership so I guess I'll be good to go?

No need to take the IM off? Sure about this?

 

You don't need to remove anything to do the job, but removing the UIM makes it a lot easier.

 

Even from the bottom? Explain please... How does the UIM get in the way if I'll be coming from below it?

 

It's much easier to get to some of the rear manifold nuts from the top. I wouldn't do the whole install from underneath, just making it harder on yourself, really.

 

Good to know... thanks.

Anything that you would add to the header install walkthrough I posted below?

 

ill be paying..... too much hassle

 

Mmmm...very tempting

 

Theres nowhere in my state that does it for less than $637. That's the cheapest I could find. Most places charged over $800 and not just the stealerships. I'm not spending that...

I'll dive in and try to learn a few things.

 

+10 that is WAAAAAAAAAAYYYY!!! too much, i feel u on the DIY install... ill probebly pay like $350 for the install

 

Hell yeah... If I could find someone to do it for that I might do the same. However with my extra $350 I can put it towards SAFC and tune. After that comes and catback... Megan I'm thinking. After that comes looks lol

THEN i'll be dealing... well hopefully.

 

It'd be better horsepower wise if you actually put the catback on before you tuned, usually tuning on a stock catback won't let you get away with aggressive AFRs (EGTs will go sky high.)

TDotMax had this problem on the dyno since he was using a stock axleback.

 

Phantom V is that LTB modified to fit over those headers? Nice Install! I placed My buddy's rear primary O2 sensor in the next bung downstream from the rearward facing one that places the O2 sensor between the rack and swaybar. We plugged that with a oil drain plug and since the harness was lenghted already.It plugged in fine and I finished up the O2 simulator install! I would love to install that LTB on my car but I have Cattman headers....You seem to have plenty of room just setting there...How about under a hard acceleration does it cause the header/ypipe to contact the LTB? Can you feel the difference with that brace installed?

 

Good to know... appreciate it. I just didn't want to be bogging and running super rich after the header install. I want to actually FEEL the power increase after all this research, work, and dinero.

3 questions:
1. Anyone know long you can run rich without any problems like cat melt etc.?
2. Did anyone notice hp increase before tuning?
3. Has anyone heard this setup with a Megan catback? Mean or what?

 

Have you actually taken an AFR reading on your setup! I took a reading on my Cattman Headers and I'm runnning prefect in closed loop 14.5-14.9 and in WOT/open loop I was reading 12.2-12.6! These guys leaning their AFR out to 13.0 on up are gonna burn up their head gasket or break a valve due too the fatigue of the higher tempertures! 12.8 is considered best lean power AFR! 12.5 is Best mean power AFR, and 12.2 is best mean torque AFR! I found that a short ram gave my a richer mixture when stumping the gas than the Injen intake did it's initial WOT reading were 13.1 AFR then richens to a 12.5 -12.8. These are perfect readings in my book and I've always seen engine lean out due to intakes and exhaust rather than richen......???????

 

nice pics..u had stillen headers on before these right? notice a big difference?

 

I will let you know after tomorrow's dyno and tune.

I will post the information in the dyno slips thread.

 

oh man Im excited. Pic and vids of tune !!