Bose Woofer Cut Off Problem for 2001 Maxima
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 46
From: Jacksonville, FL
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 19
you bought yours from TechFanatic2050 ...his relays were the original ones that bose puts in...mine are more durable
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
From: Chi-town
Hello All
I have had this same problem for over a year. The first time I looked on ebay and found someone selling the same sub and I bought it for the black box. Installed it and it worked from the whole summer. Then the new one started acting up. I had been reading this forum but nobody had a solution until now. I just bought 2 relays from Biren to see if it worked and it did. I did the soldering myself with help from youtube and a friend at work. It was easy to do. Now it has been working for about a week now. Before I had to keep the Bass at -3 and it would still go out sometimes. Now I have the Bass at +1 because my heart can take anymore than that. It is really holding strong. Thanks Biren.
I have had this same problem for over a year. The first time I looked on ebay and found someone selling the same sub and I bought it for the black box. Installed it and it worked from the whole summer. Then the new one started acting up. I had been reading this forum but nobody had a solution until now. I just bought 2 relays from Biren to see if it worked and it did. I did the soldering myself with help from youtube and a friend at work. It was easy to do. Now it has been working for about a week now. Before I had to keep the Bass at -3 and it would still go out sometimes. Now I have the Bass at +1 because my heart can take anymore than that. It is really holding strong. Thanks Biren.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 45
This is what i did. I took a piece of paper folded it several times and wrapped it in electrical tape. Placed it on top of this 'GREY' box. Closed the silver metal box. and Whola!!!!!! IT DOESN'T CUT OUT ANYMORE. it cost me about .03 cents.
Before you laugh try it. VELKIN '01 I30
Before you laugh try it. VELKIN '01 I30
I did this .03 repair and its working again !!!
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 33
From: San Diego
Another so far happy member for the stuffing a piece of paper/cardboard on top of relay method. Did the same as posted earlier with cardboard wrapped in electrical tape. Only driven a few miles so far though. Only had the 02 Maxima for about a week and a big difference the sub makes. Thought i was trippin at first, until i noticed going over a few bumps when the sub turned on. All my solder contacts looked just fine. So my advice is try the cardboard 1st just to see if it will solve your problem, if not solder 2nd, and if not that buy new relay as 3rd option. See this as cost going from lowest to highest. Thanks to all for pics and posts.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 10
From: Bismarck, ND
This is what i did. I took a piece of paper folded it several times and wrapped it in electrical tape. Placed it on top of this 'GREY' box. Closed the silver metal box. and Whola!!!!!! IT DOESN'T CUT OUT ANYMORE. it cost me about .03 cents.
Before you laugh try it. VELKIN '01 I30
Before you laugh try it. VELKIN '01 I30
Thanks!
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 16
My 2001 has the same problem! Will try this fix this week! .. Also, the song changers on my stearing wheel only work half the time, my radio has been cutting out lately and when i turn on my rear defrost my radio goes crazy static ! Any suggestions on that one ? haha.
I have a 2002 and the BOSE CD player skips, especially after changing CD's or when its cold outside......once it warms up seems to be OK....its GARBAGE and will be replaced soon with a FULL aftermarket system!
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
I tried gluing some foam atop the relay and that worked for awhile but it still cutout with drastic temp changes in one day and a bump on the road here and there (for the first week it seemed as tho it was working perfectly)
now i re-soldered and when i installed it back it i still had to hit it to get it working first time and only cut out once when i closed the rear door while playing a pure bass track at high volume. This leads me guessing solder points were a problem but relay may be just as guilty. But nonetheless its working great, only time will tell if its perfect.
And btw my car is 03 and the amp looks identical to the 01 i30 amp on the first page and i used same method fixing it. i thought i heard the setups for 00,01, and 5.5 were different from one another. Either way a subwoofer that isnt in danger of cutting out sounds a lot better than what it used to be.
now i re-soldered and when i installed it back it i still had to hit it to get it working first time and only cut out once when i closed the rear door while playing a pure bass track at high volume. This leads me guessing solder points were a problem but relay may be just as guilty. But nonetheless its working great, only time will tell if its perfect.
And btw my car is 03 and the amp looks identical to the 01 i30 amp on the first page and i used same method fixing it. i thought i heard the setups for 00,01, and 5.5 were different from one another. Either way a subwoofer that isnt in danger of cutting out sounds a lot better than what it used to be.
Last edited by LongoTE; May 16, 2011 at 06:04 PM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
Resoldering didn't work for me - but I bought a replacement relay from TechFanatic2050 and it arrived last week (just a few days after I contacted him). Pulled the old one out and the new one in - it works great! So happy to find this forum and that TechFanatic had some to sell. I couldn't find that model of relay anywhere!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 45
the .02 fix still working fine.
The only other problem I have is with the CD player. The left side speakers are dull sounding for about 60 mins. after a warmup they match the right side. In radio and cassette all speakers are fine. I have run a cd cleaner to no avail.
The only other problem I have is with the CD player. The left side speakers are dull sounding for about 60 mins. after a warmup they match the right side. In radio and cassette all speakers are fine. I have run a cd cleaner to no avail.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1
From: Lone Star State
Just remove and resolder it back in?
I just want to ensure that all you guys are doing is removing the gray box to do a better job at soldering it back on the circuit board.
So I did the soldering just now and So far the results are good. Before today my sub was off.. plain and simple.. OFF.
AS of right now it is producing all its glorious bass.
Soo.. Since a picture is a thousand words.. I took some pictures for everyone.
I was going by the guide that Vaidz posted from 05-01-2009 10:44 PM
Reposted with Pics and some comments in Bold
1. Remove the black subwoofer assembly which is held in place by 3 hex screws. Drop the black housing down. No need to disconnect the wires.
2. In the black housing there is a metal box which houses the circuit board. Remove the 4 screws and take out the box.
3. Disconnect the red and green connectors by pulling down on them. Take note of which side they connect to for the reinstalling later.
They only plug into one spot. Sized accordingly.
4. Gently pry off the metal box top with a small flathead screwdriver. The circuit board will be exposed.
5. Gently pull up the circuit board. Mine came out without too much struggle.
6. When you look at the circuit board you should see that there is a grey box. There are solder joints that look almost identical to the ones that teddie18 has identified in his photos.
I circled this in Red
I resoldered 10 points in total. Basically all the ones that looked like they were attached to the underside of the grey box. If I was smart I would have taken the circuit board to someone a bit more skilled at soldering such small contact points, but things still worked out.
Underside Where I soldered (pre solder) - Circled in Red, but actual soldered spots are circled in yellow.
Close up through a magnifying glass (post solder):
7. Reverse the steps to reinstall all parts and you should be good to go.
You got it off.. just Reverse the Steps!
I will post another update after I have put on some Miles on the Max today.
I have had little soldering experience (modded every console I have had from psx up.. but that's it. nothing wicked hard.)
Thank you guys!
- Cal
AS of right now it is producing all its glorious bass.
Soo.. Since a picture is a thousand words.. I took some pictures for everyone.
I was going by the guide that Vaidz posted from 05-01-2009 10:44 PM
Reposted with Pics and some comments in Bold
1. Remove the black subwoofer assembly which is held in place by 3 hex screws. Drop the black housing down. No need to disconnect the wires.
2. In the black housing there is a metal box which houses the circuit board. Remove the 4 screws and take out the box.
3. Disconnect the red and green connectors by pulling down on them. Take note of which side they connect to for the reinstalling later.
They only plug into one spot. Sized accordingly.
4. Gently pry off the metal box top with a small flathead screwdriver. The circuit board will be exposed.
5. Gently pull up the circuit board. Mine came out without too much struggle.
6. When you look at the circuit board you should see that there is a grey box. There are solder joints that look almost identical to the ones that teddie18 has identified in his photos.
I circled this in Red
I resoldered 10 points in total. Basically all the ones that looked like they were attached to the underside of the grey box. If I was smart I would have taken the circuit board to someone a bit more skilled at soldering such small contact points, but things still worked out.
Underside Where I soldered (pre solder) - Circled in Red, but actual soldered spots are circled in yellow.
Close up through a magnifying glass (post solder):
7. Reverse the steps to reinstall all parts and you should be good to go.
You got it off.. just Reverse the Steps!
I will post another update after I have put on some Miles on the Max today.
I have had little soldering experience (modded every console I have had from psx up.. but that's it. nothing wicked hard.)
Thank you guys!
- Cal
The woofer has been cutting off almost every day for the past 2 years. I did alot of reading on the .org, I re-soldered some of the components and it didn't work. For the past 2 years, if I wanted to have some base, I would stop on the side of the road, pop the trunk, and hit the bottom of the woofer to make it work again... 
I did the paper trick 3 days ago and it hasn't cut off since!
I love the .org!
I did the paper trick 3 days ago and it hasn't cut off since!
I love the .org!
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 72
From: Suffolk, Long Island
I did the paper trick today and so far the sub has been working. But on the other hand, I have a problem with the CD player and when I am playing it and hit a bump or sometimes just random the entire driver side of the car will stop playing and it will only come out of the passenger side. It only does this with the CD player not with the radio. Could it have something to do with this? I tried looking for another thread on it but was not successful with my findings. 
But on the other hand, I have a problem with the CD player and when I am playing it and hit a bump or sometimes just random the entire driver side of the car will stop playing and it will only come out of the passenger side. It only does this with the CD player not with the radio. Could it have something to do with this? I tried looking for another thread on it but was not successful with my findings.
I did the paper trick today and so far the sub has been working. But on the other hand, I have a problem with the CD player and when I am playing it and hit a bump or sometimes just random the entire driver side of the car will stop playing and it will only come out of the passenger side. It only does this with the CD player not with the radio. Could it have something to do with this? I tried looking for another thread on it but was not successful with my findings.
But on the other hand, I have a problem with the CD player and when I am playing it and hit a bump or sometimes just random the entire driver side of the car will stop playing and it will only come out of the passenger side. It only does this with the CD player not with the radio. Could it have something to do with this? I tried looking for another thread on it but was not successful with my findings.
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 72
From: Suffolk, Long Island
Alright I will try to look for it a little more I don't want to change topic to much. If anyone has the link please PM me or something I would appreciate it.
Back on topic now, the sub is still working fine after a day. It used to cut out at least 2ce an hour so I am pretty sure the paper sealed the deal. Would have never thought I could fix a sub with a piece of paper.
Back on topic now, the sub is still working fine after a day. It used to cut out at least 2ce an hour so I am pretty sure the paper sealed the deal. Would have never thought I could fix a sub with a piece of paper.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 10
From: Tomball TX
Thanks again to whoever thought up the paper trick. I fixed mine in about 15 minutes and most of that was looking for tools. I must say that while the sub is working now, it doesn't seem to have the punch that it used to. Before, if I ever pushed the bass past +2 it would get very distorted. I can now push it up to +5 and it doesn't seem to get much louder or increase the distortion. Perhaps I should get a new relay.
Here is the link for the CD player fix. http://shiftice.com/bose_cutout_fix.html I'm going to have to attempt this soon. Mine just started acting up on Monday. This bose system sure seems to have some bugs.
Here is the link for the CD player fix. http://shiftice.com/bose_cutout_fix.html I'm going to have to attempt this soon. Mine just started acting up on Monday. This bose system sure seems to have some bugs.
Last edited by jruss21; May 26, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
From: Chi-town
It's going on 4 months since I replaced the relay. I bought it from Biren. It has been working non-stop. I have adjusted volumes, bass and etc. It takes it all. Best fix yet. It was my first time soldering anything. I watched a couple youtube vidz on soldering and did it myself.
Has anyone ever realized that there is a fuse in the engine bay labeled "speakers" or something along those lines? Anyways I saw that a while back and looked at it and it wad blown, replaced the fuse and my stock subwoofer works just fine now.
Just something to think about, also if it has been mentioned before I didn't read through everything so I apologies in advance.
Just something to think about, also if it has been mentioned before I didn't read through everything so I apologies in advance.
I am experiencing the same thing, and really appreciate all the information that has been posted up! I'll get this thing fixed tomorrow. I wasn't sure what was going on but apparently mine works intermittently as well.
I just got my relay from biren. how did you guys go about installing it ? did you just rip off the old relay? and how do you figure out where to soldier this new one as the dimensions are different? just looking for a heads up before i do this purely on guess work
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
I would like to throw a big thank you to this thread, especially to the people that posted the picture guide to taking the sub apart, and the man that came up with the paper trick.
I was losing my mind day after day of the sub cutting out whenever it felt like it, usually on my favorite songs...
After taking the sub out, re soldering the connections, then stuffing some paper wrapped in electrical tape on top of the relay - I have been 100% ever since. That was about a month or two ago.
I am not opposed to going with a new relay but so far so good with the paper trick, great **** guys.
I was losing my mind day after day of the sub cutting out whenever it felt like it, usually on my favorite songs...
After taking the sub out, re soldering the connections, then stuffing some paper wrapped in electrical tape on top of the relay - I have been 100% ever since. That was about a month or two ago.
I am not opposed to going with a new relay but so far so good with the paper trick, great **** guys.
My Bose subs just died the other night. I read this thread and I thought OK, I'm going to fix it and re-solder that relay connection. Well, I have none. Checked the wiring, connector, output from Amps and pretty sure is this PCB assy that caused problem. There is no signal coming out of this PCB. So, I'm going to attemp by pass (white and black wires) from amp straight to sub.
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 285
From: Louisiana
9/2 Back to square 1. I think I'll try to add some pressure to the board cover before I disassemble the bottom half of that speaker.
Last edited by Roymg; Sep 2, 2011 at 07:22 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
From: South Dakota
I tried the re-soldering fix but when I attempted to take the bypass off of the board it wouldn't come off. Eventually I gave up after popping the bypass open. I figured the solder must be ok if it won't even come off of the board.
So I tried the old cardboard wrapped in electrical tape trick and it worked! 4 years without my subwoofer and now it's back!
So I tried the old cardboard wrapped in electrical tape trick and it worked! 4 years without my subwoofer and now it's back!