Poor acceleration ONLY after warming up (2003 Maxima)
#162
Yeah, that's a very good idea but unfortunately I listed some of the parts I already replaced in the opening thread and the Coolant Temp Sensor is one of them.
Its amazing how a car like this with such an advanced ECU lost sooo much power yet not a hint of SES/Check Engine Light, YIKES!
Its amazing how a car like this with such an advanced ECU lost sooo much power yet not a hint of SES/Check Engine Light, YIKES!
#163
Yeah, that's a very good idea but unfortunately I listed some of the parts I already replaced in the opening thread and the Coolant Temp Sensor is one of them.
Its amazing how a car like this with such an advanced ECU lost sooo much power yet not a hint of SES/Check Engine Light, YIKES!
Its amazing how a car like this with such an advanced ECU lost sooo much power yet not a hint of SES/Check Engine Light, YIKES!
Tards you've been talking to apparently think no CEL = no codes.
#164
You need someone with an advanced scanner who can not only find any pending codes, but also examine how your engine is running-coolant temperature, ignition timing, lean or rich, etc.
#165
Here's a sample of my trouble with idiots and what they said:
Nissan Dealer 1: Can't find any problem with your car...
Nissan Dealer 2: Yeah, we feel the highly reduced performance but no SES light, can't help, so we'll file this under " no problem found "
Shop 1: I'm sorry but without a SES light it's too hard, we don't have time.
Shop 2: Sorry, can't see a problem with your car, if you lost performance you need to go to a high-performance tuner shop.
" High Perf shop 1 ": Oh yeah, we can find the problem, I definitely feel what you're talking about,... [ next day come in to drop off the car ] I'm sorry but your car has so many CAT converters I'm afraid we would need too many labor hours to find the problem and your best bet would be the dealer...
Now, if u know any smart techicians in Orange County, CA I would love to know so I can take my car there.
But a consumer shouldn't have to be in a forum and go to 20 different shops to get their car fixed so it seems to me like the brains of car technicians have not caught up to car technology.
Thanks to the EPA, new cars are now forced to have more failure prone components like CATs.
I think as cars from around year ~2000-2003 start to get older and pick up miles more and more people will be taking their cars to be fixed and be turned away OR be robbed of thousands upon thousands to throw parts at the problem.
One of the technicians that wanted to help but then turned me away pretty much wanted to charge me $300 to start off by replacing " knock sensor " for ABSOLUTELY NO REASON ", he didn't want to TEST it, take it out and INSPECT IT, he just wanted to replace it. I never mentioned any " forum " EVER because I think it's a bad idea and but the idiot mentioned that " Maximas are prone to Knock sensor break downs " I reminded him that it didn't apply to the 2003 Maxima but the older ones, he realized his mistake and that really got him embarrassed and soon after came up with excuses and turned me away.
Last edited by capframe; 04-18-2009 at 11:14 PM.
#167
I wish it were that easy.
BUT, the stealerships are kind of retarded so thanks for the tip...I will have the car scanned for codes again for the heck of it...
Last edited by capframe; 04-18-2009 at 11:54 PM.
#168
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Primary o2's like to fail but not give any codes, or only the occasional p0300 (random/multiple cyl misfire) once warm. This problem wouldn't apply to WOT though, are you sure it's sluggish WOT when warm?
You can also unplug your primaries and secondaries and see how it runs even after it's warmed up, or have a good tech take a look at your fuel trims.
You can also unplug your primaries and secondaries and see how it runs even after it's warmed up, or have a good tech take a look at your fuel trims.
#170
Primary o2's like to fail but not give any codes, or only the occasional p0300 (random/multiple cyl misfire) once warm. This problem wouldn't apply to WOT though, are you sure it's sluggish WOT when warm?
You can also unplug your primaries and secondaries and see how it runs even after it's warmed up, or have a good tech take a look at your fuel trims.
You can also unplug your primaries and secondaries and see how it runs even after it's warmed up, or have a good tech take a look at your fuel trims.
#173
The primary o2 sensors are on the exhaust manifolds right before the precats. The one up front is easy to see. There's one on the other side of the motor in a similar location. The computer reads their output and adjusts fuel trim accordingly. A mechanic can easily plug in and read their output during any driving condition.
The secondary o2 sensors are after the precats. All they do is tell if the precats are working properly and throw a code if they aren't. The computer doesn't use them for any tuning at all.
The secondary o2 sensors are after the precats. All they do is tell if the precats are working properly and throw a code if they aren't. The computer doesn't use them for any tuning at all.
#174
The primary o2 sensors are on the exhaust manifolds right before the precats. The one up front is easy to see. There's one on the other side of the motor in a similar location. The computer reads their output and adjusts fuel trim accordingly. A mechanic can easily plug in and read their output during any driving condition.
The secondary o2 sensors are after the precats. All they do is tell if the precats are working properly and throw a code if they aren't. The computer doesn't use them for any tuning at all.
The secondary o2 sensors are after the precats. All they do is tell if the precats are working properly and throw a code if they aren't. The computer doesn't use them for any tuning at all.
Last edited by capframe; 04-19-2009 at 10:52 PM.
#176
Before I had this problem I used to floor it on the freeway and the car would down-shift and everyone on the freeway would hear the cold air intake and crap their pants thinking a fighter jet was about to drop a bomb but it was just me...but now when I floor it it sounds like Mary Kate blowing air to make bubbles, so weeeak...and not just weak but actually GASPING for air, seriously, I floor it and the car seems like it is breathing, it's crazy.
#180
#181
I can't hear the intake during normal operation or WOT. Only when I initially hammer down I hear the "whoosh" "sucking" noise then my exhaust overpowers the intake sound.
With that, it sounds like the car is working harder during full and not as hard during 1/2, but as stated feels the same and the time from 60-80 is very similar.
With that, it sounds like the car is working harder during full and not as hard during 1/2, but as stated feels the same and the time from 60-80 is very similar.
#182
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The primary o2 sensors are on the exhaust manifolds right before the precats. The one up front is easy to see. There's one on the other side of the motor in a similar location. The computer reads their output and adjusts fuel trim accordingly. A mechanic can easily plug in and read their output during any driving condition.
The secondary o2 sensors are after the precats. All they do is tell if the precats are working properly and throw a code if they aren't. The computer doesn't use them for any tuning at all.
The secondary o2 sensors are after the precats. All they do is tell if the precats are working properly and throw a code if they aren't. The computer doesn't use them for any tuning at all.
Thank you for that...so is it true that the primary O2 sensors can be screwed up in such a way that the ECU will not throw a code but make the car run like crap? that's actually possible? not that I don't believe the other people that vaguely mentioned such possibility but I want to understand how that could be possible in a slightly detailed fashion.
But again, if it is definitly 100% a problem during WOT it's not the o2's.
Maybe try verifying that the throttle is fully opening, no carpet stuck under the pedal etc? Once the car is warmed up shut it down, pop the intake tube off and have an assistant mash the gas w/keyon and watch the throttle plate move? Do it cold first so you can see if there is a noticeable difference? I'm just tossing ideas out there, it's easy enough to check. Just dont ever touch that plate with the tb plugged in, in fact I never ever touch or clean them unless it stalls upon start-up or idle issue/code that a relearn won't fix, so basically just watch it and don't touch or clean it, it's not giving you a problem.
#183
Never noticed this thread before...time for a bit of reading.
#184
#185
At this point, personally I'd be taking the car in for a dyno. Not only will it give you absolute numbers (making sure your butt dyno isn't broken), but it also gives relatively consistent conditions under which to test. At least one run cold and one at operating temp.
I'd also try to find a shop that has a copy of Cipher, and can do a complete datalog during the runs. A Z/G performance shop is best for this.
Dynos typically vary from ~$35 (dyno day type event) to $80 for 2 or 3 pulls.
Between a DRF and a Cipher (or similar, but preferably Cipher/CONSULT-II) datalog, it should be relatively easy to identify the problem.
I'd also try to find a shop that has a copy of Cipher, and can do a complete datalog during the runs. A Z/G performance shop is best for this.
Dynos typically vary from ~$35 (dyno day type event) to $80 for 2 or 3 pulls.
Between a DRF and a Cipher (or similar, but preferably Cipher/CONSULT-II) datalog, it should be relatively easy to identify the problem.
#186
I was going to be doing a dyno anyway so I'll have to talk with a couple shops around here and see if they have a Cipher or Consult II...I know dynos are 75 for 3 pulls here. It won't be for at least a week or 2 thought (I will be out of town) =(.
#187
Maybe try verifying that the throttle is fully opening, no carpet stuck under the pedal etc? Once the car is warmed up shut it down, pop the intake tube off and have an assistant mash the gas w/keyon and watch the throttle plate move? Do it cold first so you can see if there is a noticeable difference? I'm just tossing ideas out there, it's easy enough to check. Just dont ever touch that plate with the tb plugged in, in fact I never ever touch or clean them unless it stalls upon start-up or idle issue/code that a relearn won't fix, so basically just watch it and don't touch or clean it, it's not giving you a problem.
#188
Please help me figure out what in the world this TUBE is!
While I was taking apart the Cold Air Intake to inspect the throttle, I discovered this weird lonely tube.
The tube was tangled and stuffed in between a bunch of crap and the end of the tube was NOT connected to anything.
I untagled the tube, brought it to surface, pulled it to an open area and took photos for your analysis:
http://www.pascalonline.net/nissan/tube/
Thank you.
While I was taking apart the Cold Air Intake to inspect the throttle, I discovered this weird lonely tube.
The tube was tangled and stuffed in between a bunch of crap and the end of the tube was NOT connected to anything.
I untagled the tube, brought it to surface, pulled it to an open area and took photos for your analysis:
http://www.pascalonline.net/nissan/tube/
Thank you.
Last edited by capframe; 04-21-2009 at 12:22 AM.
#192
It wouldn't really if you sit there, let it idle until it's warmed up, then notice the loss of power. However, if you start it up, and drive it around until it's warm, the brakes dragging could indeed be a trouble area.
#194
When you're driving around and getting it warmed up, more than likely you would be using the brakes, and you know how the rear calipers pistons are prone to sticking.
But the problems apparently are directly related to coolant temperature, regardless of the car having been driven or not; I wouldn't suspect the brakes right off, but it never hurts to hit them with an IR thermometer.
#195
I can give it a quick check, not hard at all. After driving today and listening to how the engine sounds cold and warm is different. When cold it sounds...more hollow and metal sounding (if thats a way to describe thats understandable) working harder and running faster... ..when warm it sounds smoother but working just as hard and I can hear what sounds more like air rushing, all that coupled with less power...
#196
Since it's not cold anymore, I say rig the thermostat haha. If the ECU thinks it's always cold, then you'll be in business if you can keep the valve open.
But I guess you couldn't idle or do heavy city driving haha.
But I guess you couldn't idle or do heavy city driving haha.
#197
#198
Maybe so, but I wish mine was packed in ice all the time. I can feel major power loss when it gets warm outside. I do need IM spacers, but I'm waiting on money (getting decent amount). I'm thinkin about blowing it on a S/C....
#199
Last edited by capframe; 04-22-2009 at 06:34 PM.
#200
i got the spacers...the uim isnt cool to the touch after hard driving for 20 min but i can touch it...lol