thats what she said!

 

got my problem solved obx didnt came with hangers so i took it to exhaust shop and got the hanger welded on and its fine now. just dont like the noise that comes out of flex section. sound like a cheap car lmao

 

what you think about this to use for O2 sensor hook up in the back?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-SE...Q5fCarQ5fParts

 

really bad idea. the sensor that needs to be relocated is the sensor that trims fuel during closed loop. If you use that adapter it will be extremely inaccurate and your AFR during closed loop will likely be crap

 

could just use it for to get rid of the CEL. what if you are tuning it after.

 

ohh yea the ramps..lol yea i didnt have any jack stands so that was the next best thing. my car is too low to ride up there so i hadda jack it up and slide them under..lol

 

you wont get a CEL for that sensor, you get a CEL for the secondary sensors which for which the bung locations arent a problem. Plus, you would need two of those to get rid of the CEL's, which would end up costing you more than just buying a 2-output simulator

 

Yeah mine has some noise coming out of the resonator as well...oh well...

 

How about some sound clips?


Does the noise change your opinion on the headers? Is it really that annoying?

 

Of course it's going to be hotter.

 

So Im installing my headers tomorrow and I have a question.

I ordered a weld on bung and bung plug but the bastards at autovalue sent it back because I didnt pick it up right away. Now I will be doing the install without relocating that bung... what is the best way to do this? should I plug it up and leave o2 sensor unplugged? I dont really care about throwing a code as long as everything still works properly. I am going to order the o2 simulator and wire it in later. If I get a CEL am I going to run in limp mode or should I be okay?

 

i highly doubt ull be able to squeese that bank 1 first sensor in there w/o relocating it because i seen no room at all on mine. so ya ur gunna throw a code and ur gas milage will suck...bad

 

just plug it and install the sensor downstream to the next bung...If you're gonna run O2 sim you only need the primaries installed in the header the other are stored away or out of the way but connected!

 

Oh heck no...when I bought the OBX V2 headers they where only like $350 and for the difference in power they made ...they would have to sound like a festiva with open headers for me not to appreciate them. I have the stock cat/catback so mine is a minimal difference in sound...although I must say honestly I was suprised how deep/throaty my exhaust sounds now with the stock catback...

 

wow... what a pita!! it took us 5 hours just to get the old headers off! canadian winters are harsh and everything was siezed up good. we had to torch off some bolts on the lower part. hoping to finish tomorrow... we managed to get everything off without removing the intake manifold though. a nice long extension with a pipe for extra leverage did the trick. will update tomorrow

 

yeah, I think I took equal parts of time on three things: taking the rear heat shield off, taking the old headers out, putting the new ones in. Just plug that rear bung and use the next bung available. You dont want to run without that primary installed and you might as well just extend the wires, doesnt make any difference really

 

Old headers or Oem manifolds ????

 

people seem to confuse them all the time, just ask that hustle character

 

 

OEM manifolds were a PITA to get off...

update and question:
The headers are all bolted up and engine mount back on. Just have to grind crossmember and hook up o2's.

I couldnt relocate the bung because we dont have proper equipment for stainless welding... So I plugged the one and moved the sensor downstream. My question is what do I do with the last sensor that I dont have a bung for? I dont have o2 sim yet. Should I plug it in the the clip but leave it out of the exhaust system (obviously I can't plug it in the pipe without a bung) Will I be able to run my car like this untill I get the o2 sim?

Can I loop the last sensor? If so can I do it without resistors? Im not very good with electrical and am a little confused on this last part. HELP please?

 

just plug the sensor in and leave it somewhere, then get a sim ASAP. the downstream sensors dont really do anything except confirm catalyst activity, so leaving them unplugged will throw a code but not much else

 

update: header install complete!! finally... total time 12 hours

The last downstream o2 sensor is ziptied under the hood and the rest are hooked up. I drove about 100 kms so far and amazingly I have no CEL (fingers crossed) so do I still need the o2 sim?

 

how was the fitment?

sound clips?

 

yes you still need a sim

 

Me and a couple friends installed a set of these on a 5 speed 4th gen with a DEK swap a few days ago. We just put a plug in the 02 sensor location that hits and extended the 02 down further. They clear the motor mount just fine, but it does sit very close to the crossmember. We banged it up some, but I still recomend griding it down a little just to be safe.

The car is deffinately faster now. Before the headers, he would pull me by a half a car and hold. Now, he just stretches me and keeps going and going. lol.

The install took us about 4 1/2 to 5 hours using jackstands. This includes removing the 00VI and also swaping out the passenger motor mount at the same time.

 

Did he previously have an aftermarket y-pipe installed?

 

My bad, forgot to add that. He had the old school cheapo headers on there with the crappy collector . The one thats pretty much shaped like a "T"

Also, the car has a stock B pipe and some dynomax muffler from advance auto because the factory one was rusted out so he needed something ASAP.

 

Fitment was a breeze, it was probably the easiest part of the whole process! We cut out the middle part of the motor mount bracket (it is useless anyways) and had to grind off a very small section of the cross member (about 4 inches long 1/2 inch deep to clear the flex pipe)I had some trouble with reusing the old bolts, they didn't thread very easily so I did them by hand to make sure there was no cross threading.

Also since everything was rusted up so good we had to use a torch to heat up the old o2 sensors to get them out. The threads were slightly damaged and some of the metal from the old manifold melted onto them. Some careful work with a vice, metal file, and a hacksaw we were able to fix them up nice enough to thread back in.

As for the sound it is pretty nice. I still have stock exhaust behind the headers so its not very loud. It did however change the exhaust note of the car quite drastically.... it sounds like it has a bigger engine, I would compare it to the sound of a v8 so I am enjoying that.

On acceleration I have a sort of clicking sound and Im not sure what is causing it or if this is normal... I have no leaks and my uncle who helped me with all this said it sounds fine. Anybody else have a similar noise? I think it could be rattling on something but not sure.

I will post up a vid with sound shortly... after a quick wash

However, due to the o2 that is unplugged I did eventually get a SES light and my gas consumption is up about 30%... Can anybody tell me how the o2 sim works? does it wire only on the one that is disconnected or what? will the resistor method previously mentioned work instead of sim?

thanks for all your advice guys! I couldnt have done all this without your tips and if anybody has any questions I can help with I am more than willing

 

I just bought the set too, and OMG, if you guys are running a converter, make sure the inside of the headers are clean. Mine were nasty. Metal shavings, grease and weld droplets. I'm glad I checked before I bolted them up or I'd need a new cat very soon. Thanks for a sweet writeup.

 

LMAO!!! im late as hell on this but why was i mentioned again??? long couple of weeks.. clocking in 50hrs a week for some parts

 

oh... i may have an extra sim i can sell... lemme kno

 

okay so my header install is finally all complete. I had an issue with the o2 sensor... I hooked up two secondaries and only one primary so that's why I had such bad fuel mileage.

I fixed my o2 sensors right so the AF ratio and fuel mileage is back to normal (or very close).

I also went back in and checked all the bolts for the headers. A couple weren't very tight and I snugged them all up tight and now the clicking noise I described is gone. ALSO the V8 growl that I described when I first installed the headers is gone. It sounds pretty much the same as it did before the header install. Maybe only slightly louder and only noticable at higher RPM's.

Although I miss the growling sound it made I am happy its quiet because that is a good sign that I have it all hooked up properly now and that is more important than the noise it makes

 

Ordering these today, I see that there are pictures of the motor mount bracket and what needs to be shaved, now will this be aparent to me while installing? As in, will i know what needs to be cut out or was it hard to figure out? Reason I am asking is because I depend on my car and I want to be able to wrap this up in a day, very helpful information in this thread, just want to make sure I do it right. I will have access to a grinder for the cross member, is this the best route to cut the bracket as well? Thanks anyone?

-Erik

 

you can put them on in a day, sure. If you have trouble getting the shave just right then you can still install them and drive on it, since they will fit, they will just rub a little bit. So if you have to do that, go ahead and do it, then continue the fix the next day or sometime soon. It might be annoying but thats better than missing work

 

So this nasty noise from the flex section, can someone post a sound clip? Bees in a can? Hiss? Etc,...

 

bees

 

CEES

 

youll get use to it... drive it hard and hopefully it will break and you give urself a reason to get another flex mines just wont seem to break, and im not changing the bees sound until it does... if it aint broken, dont fix it they say lol... did anybody get a bracket weld to the y???

 

what would a bracket on the y do?

 

i dont remember but it should prevent on banging on the trans IIRC (i could be wrong i dont remember) and helps a tad with longevity