It will prevent the weakest part of that exhaust (flex section in the y pipe) from vibrating and hitting different parts of the undercarriage when the motor is under load.

I'm not sure if this was covered, is the flex section "lined?"

 

Ya my flex section is hitting something... it has an annoying rattleing sound. I'm going to take it to an exhaust shop and see if they can weld up a hanger for it. Im also gonna have them install my megan test pipe and see if they can give me a reasonable price for a custom 3" catback.

Yes you should grind the crossmember... it's pretty obvious what you have to shave off if you test fit it on there. For the motor mount you can pretty much cut out the whole middle section, its basically a heat shield... that will give you clearance. BTW it will take forever with a grinder, just torch that biatch

 

Not even worth grinding it. I wound up just taking it to a muffler shop and have them grind down the motor mount bar in two spots

 

can someone tell me what 02 sensors to use? is it the bank 1 sensor 2 and bank one sensor 3? im getting my info from this just click the view job diagram http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Bosch+/+Oxygen+Sensor&categoryDisplayName=Exhaust&fromStr ing=&itemIdentifier=282410_43235_5320_14573&produc tId=282410&sortType=&parentId=61-0&filterByKeyWord=&isSearchByPartNumber=&navValue= 16100117&categoryNValue=&fromWhere=&itemId=117-0&displayName=Oxygen+Sensor&store=5284&searchText= &brandName=Bosch .. just click the view job diagram

 

Just ordered em. Will be relocating the first bung 90 degrees. and extending wires for the others.(radio shack is my friend).

Its going to be 2 weeks until install, GF birthday this upcoming weekend so no playing with the car, but its fine ill document it as well.

 

If you didn't grind that rear mount that's your problem! $350 huh????

 

I just beat on the crossmember a bit where it comes near the flex section. It actually bent up in that thin section pretty easily without changing the shape of the actual supporting structure at all. Better than grinding IMO

 

You don't have to relocate the first bung. You can install that primary o2 in the next bung downstream, on the y-pipe loop. You will just have to extend the wires, but that's a lot easier than getting a whole new bung welded on.

Also, it's a PITA to solder stainless steel wires, so grab yourself some crimp connectors with the heat shrink on both sides.

 

Anyone seen these listed around as of late?
It looks like OBX may have discontinued the headers for the 5.5 gen.

 

I'm not seeing any on e-bay. The only headers I see are the ones for the 95-99

 

https://www.dragtimes.com/parts-view...D=170376332774

You may be able to buy them from here?

Same price, same product.

EDIT - looks like the eBay listing ended. PM Perkman87, I think he bought a set recently.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I didn't find this when I googled for headers; only a site that had the un-equal length y design listed for $475 or something. I'll have to keep this bookmarked and order them as soon as my paycheck clears. I really hope OBX didn't d/c these.

EDIT: Looks like the seller just has yet to relist. I'm pretty sure this is the same guy I was looking at buying them from last time I surfed through eBay.

 

Old thread, but I wasn't about to start a new one for such a stupid question...

What is the timeframe on an install like this for someone who's mechanic ability ends at oil changes and brake pads? Also, say on a scale of 1-10, how easy is this install? (1 being an oil change and 10 being replacing an engine.)

Note: My car has been through rough winters most of its life, so the underbody is pretty well rusted (so much so that my exhaust pipe broke at the flange between the straight pipe and muffler.)

 

could take you a while with the rust trouble. I would put it at about a 6-7 on that scale. The job really isnt hard and its tough to screw up, but it can be frustrating for sure. I would just suggest you get a lot of wd-40 on the bolts ahead of time and let it soak in before you start

 

Use liquid wrench or PB blaster, they work better instead of WD-40. Do you have impact tools? Highly recommended.

Other than that, take your time and don't try to take shortcuts, because those will make you take even longer.

 

Nope. No high impact tools. I changed the O2 sensors once and it was a huge ***** getting them out. Ended up "renting" a sensor tool from Auto Zone (returned it when I was done...). So if its going to take specific tools like that for everything I don't think I'll bother.

 

I know this is an old thread but I cant create ones right now. I hve an 00 auto maxima se. I'm thinking of going with the OBX headers. Anyone have the same car and install these? Was it hard? Worth, performance wise? Thanks

 

Yeah, plenty.

Depends if you have the right tools, amount of time to get out the old rusted manifold and fitment.


I hope so.

 

I have a question, I've read that instead of relocating the primary o2 bung you can move it to the next bung down and extend the wire.... Will that make any difference in performance??? I always thought it was close to the head for a reason but not positive. I'm in the middle of the install, I have all the stuff out and ready for the new headers to go in. I have someone that will relocate the bung tomorrow after 5pm but I don't want to be doin this in the dark, so I'm wondering if just using the next bung down will have any negative effect?

 

ok, put them in, and they sound like crap. too loud, and a little raspy. I have a high flow cat and i need to put a stock cat in and maybe that will help? anyone have any suggestions?

 

1.) Replace high-flow cat with resonated test pipe
2.) Wrap flex section in header-wrap or replace with more heavy-duty flex
3.) ????
4.) Profit

 

What's your cat-back setup?

Make sure there aren't any possibilities for leaks.

Try using a resonated test pipe.

 

its not the flex, i have a resonated test pipe, theyre calling it a "highflow cat" on ebay lol.....im gonna try and get the stock cat for it i think thats gonna make a big difference...i hope

 

i ran through the whole thing, its not coming from the front, there are no leaks, its just the actual exhaust sound its self....i have a 2.5" megan catback... and i have a resonated test pipe...so its not actually a cat.. so im thinking if i get a stock cat it will make a huge difference...hoping

 

The Megan catback is way loud with headers, from what I've read.

My setup is exactly the same as yours except with a cattman cat-back and it doesn't rasp and isn't too loud.

What I would do is change the resonator in the B-pipe to something bigger.

 

Granted I havent heard a megan on a maxima. But in the ser community they tend to be quite loud and raspy. They are a cheaper system and most likely cut corners in the muffler and resonator.

Moncefa33

I also have a cattman setup and I am looking to get the obx headers shortly. I have only found 1 quality video of how the setup sounds. Do you happen to have any vids of yours.

 

<- Skip to :55.

 

rrrrreeeaaalllyyyy......hmmmm......i looks pretty big now...but i havent measured it....thats a good idea....i got the megan because people were saying its rreealllyy good...but the more im reading, im beginning to see the people that told me that might have been wrong...lol

 

It's a good catback, sounds sexy. Just drones like hell with headers! Get a bigger resonator (magnaflow sells them) and get it welded in. Problem solved.

 

awesome, thanks for the info, im gonna look into that right now.....i need to fix this lol when i started my car I was like WTF its not supposed to sound like that!!! lol.... the sound i was looking for is there, just to loud and a llllittle raspy...but like i said ill look for the magnaflow. where could i find that, is there a website? and did you happen to know the size?

 

You want a resonator that has a 2.5" inlet/outlet. 22" or longer. Magnaflow's website.

 

awesome, thanks...im looking now and see everything but resonators

 

Check SummitRacing.

 

http://www.hottexhaust.com/search_re...2&txtCatName=2


There you go, I bought mine from there 2 weeks ago. My car sounds a lot better now

 

ok will do, thanks

 

ok cool, thanks... whats your set up? what was the prob with it? and did that resonator get rid of it?

 

oh and what length did you go with on the resonator?

 

i just quoted my self. and i cant delete it.... wasnt looking..

 

i forgot to ask, what was the length of it? 18", 22"?

 

22"

my setup is obx headers w/ ebay catback and dual tipped mufflers welded on.. it was really loud with headers and raspy without the resonator.. with the resonator its still a little loud but not nearly as much as it was without it.. and now it sounds pretty nice (IMO) and it got rid of most of the rasp