Glad to hear another positive review from a well spoken enthusiast. I just got the Torque link installed on my car along with a host of other mods and by all accounts it sounds as though it was the right decision.

I haven't actually driven the car yet as I am waiting for my ECU to get back from Technosquare. Almost everything I have read seems to be really positive and should improve the driving experience which is really what mods are all about from my perspective.

My only worry is that I am running stock mounts. They appear to be in excellent condition, likely very recently replaced so I decided to leave them, we'll see what happens...

 

I actually broke the same bolt off when I did the install. I drilled it out but there is absolutely no way to get to the bottom of that hole to put a nut on the bolt or something so I ended up only attaching it with 3 bolts. I posted a review up in some other thread, but I'm posting here to let everyone know to go realllllllyyyy easy on that little bolt.

 

Prolly wont fit my SE-R I assume

 

A few days later... second posted impressions.

I'm still loving the mod, still getting used to the changes. It's an awesome thing when a simple modification affects the way you interact with your vehicle. Power transfer is so much smoother between the gears. Shifting is faster and more precise. Throttle response is improved, much in the same way that throttle response improves with solid poly torque mount inserts. In fact, the changes felt with this mod are very much the same kind of thing. If you like the one, you'll like the other.

One downside; my rear view mirror vibrates quite a bit at idle. Total added vibration isn't bad, but apparently bad enough to cause the RVM to shake. But only at idle; otherwise it's fine. Of course, I don't like it to shake, but at the moment I don't care too much, either.

And one oddity that I've not read about: there is a change in the overall acoustics. On the surface of it, that might seem nuts. But if you consider that tonal quality of your engine and exhaust is noise born both of combustion and vibration within the confines of the surrounding space and materials... (blah blah blah)

Well, you get the point. Trust me, the overall acoustics have been altered. Kind of an unexpected observation. Better or worse? I don't know, still wrapping my head around it.

 

Thank you for that review. I'm glad you are liking your latest NWP product.

I would recommend to put at least a small amount of tension on the torque link. You don't have to crank it down several turns, but turn it at least once to make sure everything is snug. You don't want the cotter pins being lose.

I'm sorry, no it will not fit since you have a completely different chassis and front engine mount design.

 

Loving it, Aaron!

Your VIAS-delete block plate is up-to-bat next, soon as you ship the polished plate.

And yes, the link is very tight to the brackets, with zero play. To do otherwise would introduce undesirable impact on the parts, which would be bad all around.

About the acoustic changes... just to confirm, (and prove to myself it wasn't something unrelated, or in my head), I removed the link and drove around for lunch, and the changes in overall acoustics are gone. Weird, huh?

Regardless, the link goes back on tonight. It's so-o-o much better driving with it than without.

 

Good. I just wanted to make sure the torque link wasn't rattling around while you're having fun banging on your engine.

One other person on the org did mention he noticed a change in acoustics or engine noise. This was not noticeable in the testing we did on an 02 Maxima 6spd. But this modification definitely makes the driver more "in tuned" with the engine. So it will be easier to notice changes with the engine properly locked into position.

 

Just read this thread straight through and, sheesh!, you guys have gotten me ridiculously excited to do this mod. I was planning on replacing the motor mounts with stiffer ones on a friend's suggestion, but didn't discover the (apparent?) awesomeness of Energy Suspension until here. Then the genius(es?) at NWP figure out a way to get even more power down to the ground instead of flexing around on squishy rubber pieces? Very, very cool.

A number of people here mentioned doing some hardcore testing on the track. Does anyone have any figures they can throw out on performance improvements? I don't need it, but I can already foresee myself having to defend this purchase as something legit and not just something to rice out my Maxima while emptying my checking account.

My only question: Should I replace all the mounts with ESs the same time/afternoon as installing this mod or put on the stiffer mounts and acclimate to that before going one step further? I'm going to assume there are tons of threads on those bushings and how many one should install (FSB and "Shifter Bushings?"), so I'll do my best to dig 'em out via the search function.

Edit: I lied. I'm interested in making the engine noisier, not the car. I've switched to the '02 SE from an '01 Ford Taurus with the ancient Vulcan (155 HP, ~180 lb*ft) that I pulled the intake silencer off and, sheesh!, that 3.0L piece of cast-iron crap is considerably louder than the VQ. Car reviewers call that lack-of-roar "refined," apparently, but I don't like it. People mentioned this changes the engine's tone, but are we talking about more engine noise making it through to the driver because more vibration makes it through to wiggle around in your ears, or just a slightly different sound?

 

Someone get some performance numbers up! Do a 1/4 with the link tightened and another with it not tightened. If this helps launching, I might purchase one of these to try and get me into the 13's finally.

 

bump for a great product! just got this installed yesterday and here's my thoughts:

its kinda hard to explain lol i'll do my best.. but overall i really like it.. when i drove it right after, it seemed a little weird because it felt too stiff.. but i got used to it real quick but can still feel the difference.. it really reduced the engine movement, increased shifts speed.. especially the 1-2 shift that took a while sometimes.. i didn't notice much viberation noise but it is there.. my exhaust is too loud to hear i guess.. but somehow the car feels real different while driving.. seems more balanced/controlled and planted to the ground (i donno if its just my imagination). i can't speak on the wheel hop decrease though, i haven't gotten on it

but i'm glad i got this simple little mod (took about 20 mins to put it on)

 

Thank you for that review! I have yet to talk with a customer that didn't have a smile on their face with the Engine Torque Link installed.

 

okay aaron send me one and I will write a review. and video the install.

 

 

will it be in HD??

 

ii had this for lik a year now...and i always wonderd to this day which way to have the motor is the best for street use and which way for track use? u can adjust it with the motor pulld frontward or pushed back....hopefully arron can chime in

 

Hey Aaron...any plans to make a link for the 6th gen's???

 

but of course.

 

Wow I'm sure glad I stumbled across this thread when I was scrolling down the 5th gen page of the org... thanks for bumping it tookrzy4u192! I wouldn't have discovered it unless you did. I've been searching for a fix to the horrible wheel hop I get when I break traction when it's wet. The first time it happened I thought I broke something! As soon as I recover from the Christmas spending i've done I'm absolutely going to order this part for my 2000 Maxima. I'm also gonna share this newly discovered info with my North Florida Maxima crew and spread the word on this.

 

Well-designed products, and good customer service... stuff like this is great to read around the holidays. Pay it forward, and it echos back in seemingly unrelated ways.

This thread deserved a good bump.

 

Thanks. It really doesn't matter which way you snug the engine. It will be tighten regardless of which way you turn the bar. There are enough threads to allow you to turn it in either direction. I have always turned it CW, which will pull the engine downward.

Everybody I have talked to leaves it connected on the street the same way they do for the track.

Yes, that is a possibility for the future. But there are a couple projects ahead of that one. So it will have to wait for now.

Thank you. Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

I've heard people mention that they would leave their torque bar disconnected during winter when there is snow on the ground. What is the reason for doing so?

 

When driving on snow & ice, you want to avoid breaking traction. And even if the pavement were dry, for those of us running snows & steelies during the Winter, we're already at a disadvantage for optimum grip.

Also, if you're just trying to get through to the other side of Winter without issue, removing the Torque Link reduces the added NVH, which is good for peace of mind. Well, for me at least. (Sometimes it just sucks modifying your daily driver when you live in the North East.)

 

I say leave it connected. The more you are 'in tune' with your car, the better you will be able to predict your traction limit, whether it is on a dry and sticky track surface or ice.

But it's so easy to disconnect, so give it a shot and see which one you like better for driving in the snow. But one thing is for certain, you will absolutely love how it feels on dry and wet roads!

 

Aaron, in the near future once I order the torque link, how long should I expect it to ship out, and by what service? UPS, Fed Ex, Usps?

 

The engine torque links are now in stock and will ship within 1 business day via USPS Priority Mail, which usually takes 2-3 days to arrive. It normally only takes 2 days for it to arrive in Jax, FL.

 

I can attest to Aaron's fast shipping and good packaging. There's always something interesting in the boxes that come from him also

 

Cool deal... Hopefully I'll be able to order one soon. Still recovering from buying the g.f. a new t.v. for Christmas. Also gonna do some more hunting around for any goodies I can find for my DE-K

 

i dont do this often, but this is a good product and i endorse it 100%, no wheel hop, no engine rocking, smoother take-off, and NOOOOOOOO engine vibration, shoulda got it longggggggg time ago

 

Thank you for that feedback. I always tell anybody that I talk to that if you do not have a huge smile on your face when you connect the Torque Link, to send it back for a full refund including shipping costs. So far, every customer I've talked to has been extremely satisfied.

 

yea man, the car feels great now

 

did any1 elses get rusty? mine looks like pure poop now

 

Sadly, yes... I experienced corrosion, but I wouldn't call it "rust". The frame plate didn't weather the elements too well, getting very tarnished. By the time I realized what was happening, it had gone too far to polish. So I'm having it powdercoated; (still waiting for the call-back.) After that, it should be fine. Better than fine, I'm hoping.

Now, the bar itself, and the engine-mount bracket, were as good as the day I bought it, so IDK what that means. I think perhaps everyone's experience would be different, depending on the climate, exposure and how well it's kept clean. I should have done a better job right from the get-go.

The lesson learned is to keep it clean starting at day one.

 

This is the first time I have heard of this happening. In all our testing, the zinc plated steel has held up great to the elements. But it was tested in eastern North Carolina where we don't have salt on our roads due to snow.

If anybody has any pictures, please feel free to send them to [aaron@nwpengineering.com]. I am always looking for ways to make NWP products better.

 

So can't we just spray paint it with Rustoleum to corrosion proof it..? I'm not up to snuff on why powder-coating is super hip or why I would want to have something powder-coated.

 

Of course you can. There's already an anti-corrosion coating on the adjustable bar, and that's worked out fine. I'm powdercoating because I'm into detailing my engine bay, that's all. No other reason.

Don't follow my lead, Eirik... you'll go of a cliff.

 

Zinc plated does a fairly good job at keeping the metal rust free for a while, but the salt used on the road up in the north, is corrosive and will eventually penetrate the zinc and oxydation & rust will naturally happen. Powder coating is one of the best " coating " to prevent oxydation & rust as long as the metal is prepped accordingly.

 

Wouldn't you know, today the powdercoater called with my stuff.

Here's my newly refreshed NWP Torque Link Connector. I left the engine mount bracket alone, since it didn't experience any tarnishing. But the bar and the frame plate were powdercoated in Black Chrome, then clear-coated. The retaining nuts at the end of the bar were replaced with full-height stainless steel. And the frame plate bolts were replaced with polished titanium buttoncaps and titanium washers.

I'm pretty content with this look, and am happy I can still make out the NWP logo. However, it's going to be a few more weeks before it goes back on the car. Winter is still here.



For comparison, here's how it looked out of the box... which was pretty cool, too.

 

^ That looks great John, Much more unified/clean. Should bode well in the pristine engine bay. Gotta love all your titanium hardware.

 

that should definitely look good in your engine bay

and my experience also taught me - better to prevent than fix afterward, lesson learned

 

I re-read the instructions yesterday and noticed that Aaron says to tighten the bar as much as you feel is needed, depending on how blown your engine mounts are. My passenger side mount is totally shot, so does that mean I can safely crank down the torque link more than the guys running ES bushings in theirs? Wouldn't this mod be more helpful to people with blown mounts?

If the engine is tightened down, will its range of motion be reduced to the point that the passenger mount won't clunk when driving over uneven road surfaces..? That would be wonderful.