Thank you for the update. I'm glad you're back up and running.

 

Installed my ETL last week on my 4gen and I LOVE THE ETL!!! These is awesome mod for all 4gen and 5gen owners!!! So whats next from NWP Aaron?

 

STS please!!!!

 

Thank you. The throttle response really goes through the roof with this mod, doesn't it?

Right now, we have a Thermal Intake Spacer Kit in the works for the VQ40 Frontier/Pathfinder/Xterra. Once that is released (hopefully by this Winter), more projects can be put on the table for development. I have a LOT of awesome ideas for the Maxima that I can't speak about right now. But once we are able to make a prototype and prove gains, then I will make sure the world knows.

Doesn't a company already make a STS for your car? I like to concentrate on products that have never been made before in order to increase the number of products on the market for the Maxima.

 

Yeah. It's a single-piece design at the tranny side, and kind of flimsy looking, IMO. If NWP made a two-piece design for both ends of the cable, like the old Watkins STS, which was a great little device...

...but you're right. It's nothing new. And the free-STS mod is just as good. And it's free.

The torque-link rocks. This is a must-have mod, people.

 

Isn't the point that it doesn't rock?

When the car improvement budget allows I am soo going to do this.

 

Thanks. I have seen quite a few 6spd guys snap their shifter bracket. An indestructible one may be pretty nice.

 

Yes the throttle response is a BIG imporvement with the ETL installed!! I disconnected the DR like you told me to try once i had the ETL installed and it felt good when i did. So what about a NWP plug and play shift kit for the Auto guys...?

 

That could work.

 

That would be primarily Maxima's that were driven hard, like at the track or the dragstrip... right?

From what I've read, the bracket's design from the 5.5 to the 6.0 gen was changed to strengthen the piece, if we're talking about the bracket that pivots from the shifter cable into the transmission. There were a few threads that talked through that quite a bit. Sparks did that to his, drag-racing his car at the track.

I don't think the average DD would have to worry about it. At least, I'm going to take some comfort in that assumption.

But since you brought it up... is NWP going to start manufacturing a replacement bracket that's better than the one from the 6.0 gen?

 

A NWP plug and play Shift kit would be F*CKIN AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! Just think about Aaron.

 

Perhaps something to replace the crappy plastic 00-VI for us De-K guys? Or maybe an entirely new UIM out of aluminum instead of plastic? Now that would be sweet! BTW I'm still lovin' my torque link!

 

Supercharger!!!

 

Can we start posting in the appropriate thread?

 

Yes, it's mainly for those who drive hard or are planning to ever visit the track. Trust me, you do not want to ever break a shifter bracket, especially while visiting a track out of town. Just ask JayPee when he raced at the Drag Racing event at MIR at MAXUS 09. Zip ties barely got him home.

But if you shift easy all the time, then you will probably be just fine. But if you ever plan to actually race the car, a beefy shifter bracket would be a great idea.

If you have any more questions or comments about this bracket, please post in the 'ideas for NWP' thread linked below and I'll respond there.

I'm glad you're still liking the Engine Torque Link.

The 00vi isn't all that bad. But it could benefit from a custom IM. But, custom intake manifolds are very expensive to make. It would be tough for NWP to release one priced below $1000.

You're right.

--------------

If anybody has an idea for NWP, please post in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...5th-gen-5.html

But, if you have any comments about the NWP Engine Torque Link, please post. Here are some questions to spark an on topic discussion about the ETL.

Do you like it? Do you have any suggestions on how to make it better? Do you leave it connected during regular daily driving? Do you feel increased vibrations in the steering wheel? If so, are you bothered by it? How easy was it to install? How easy is it to disconnect and reconnect and adjust stiffness? Is your wheel hop improved? How has your ON/OFF throttle response improved? Any noticeable improvements in your 60 foot times at the track? If you have a manual transmission, how much easier is it to shift aggressively into the next gear?

 

Has anybody noticed a decrease in front end body roll with the ETL installed? Becasue I have, before I had the ETL I could feel the engine shift when coming into corner. And now my car feels flatter when in a corner. Anybody having the same results?

 

It's definitely possible, especially if you were to suddenly let off the throttle going into a turn. The sudden change in direction of the engine itself will cause more weight transfer.

Image sliding a half full milk jug across the counter. The milk inside continues to move after the container stops sliding, causing the container to move forward some more. But if it was a frozen jug of milk, it would slide predictably across the counter.

That's my idea anyway. Whenever you brace the engine, the entire car will feel like what a sports car should!

 

For an additional price, offer powder-coating and bolts that don't rust. Same goes for the BOP... I just got some Ti-bolts today for the block off plate, because the original bolts can corrode after a year or two.

 

All of our bolts are silver zinc plated. They shouldn't corrode that quickly. Did they oxidize or corrode for you already? Or did you just take preventative measures?

 

Zinc-plated hardware corrodes. The finish goes bye-bye in no time... it just does, man. It's not like stainless steel. Or titanium. For example, here's a picture of the M8x20 1.25-thread flange bolt that come with your Block-off Plate, after only less than a year. It's side-by-side with a polished titanium bolt of the same size.

I'm pretty sure you don't want to talk about the polished finish on nuts & bolts. It was just a suggestion responding to your prompt. And this post is just a response to your question. Aaron, you already know I'm a strong proponent of your stuff here on the Org. This is just a suggestion, is all.

 

Thanks. I agree there is no comparison to zinc plated steel bolts and the titanium one you have in the pic. It is absolutely gorgeous.

The reason I chose to use a zinc plated steel bolt in the VIAS Block Plate Kit and Thermal Intake Spacer Kit is because it is very close to aluminum on the galvanic scale. This reduces the chance of the bolt seizing. So a zinc plated bolt was not only the most cost efficient for this kit, but I felt it would be the most reliable material and would reduce the chance of any customers having problems in the distant future.

 

Those titanium bolds do look really nice... how much do they cost? Maybe they can be listed as an upgraded option.

 

PM'd so that this thread stays on-topic.

 

Got it, thanks Rochester. My apologies Aaron, didn't intend to venture off-topic.

 

No, it's ok. I welcome discussion in any of my threads.

 

Just ordered my block off plate yesterday, really into this tq Link for my 6mt now.

My question is, for those of you who have this mod, if I were to take my intake only six speed w no tq link up against the same car same mods same driver skills, would a car w the tq link be car lengths ahead of me, or just a fender on me because of the better throttle response?? Just a silly question I know, just wanted to see if the money/et ratio is really that good.

 

The Engine Torque Link will probably not make a noticeable difference in 1/4 mile ETs unless you were having problems with traction, shifting, or wheel hop. So there are just too many variables to answer your question. But with the torque link installed, it will be much easier for you to properly launch your Maxima and shift gears quickly. You won't put several car lengths on the other car, but you most certainly will have increased your chance of winning.

And I guarantee you'll have a huge smile on your face as you're banging through the gears and the engine stays in place properly.

If anybody else has any input, please feel free to chime in.

 

I wantthis mod, shifting feels jerky, wheel hop is an always thru first/second..

 

With the Torque Link, shifting should feel crisp and tight. And wheel hop should definitely be reduced.

 

stupid question and may have been answered but im wondering would this put lets stress on your mounts and more on the frame?.... for example lets say i had $200 and my mounts have 190k on them would it be better to change all the mounts or to buy the torque link? if the link stops my engine from moving and the warn mounts are stopping my engine from falling out wouldnt the link be all i need to compensate for the warn mounts?

 

I would recommend to have motor mounts that are in decent shape before purchasing the Engine Torque Link. This product is not intended to be a band-aid fix for broken or highly worn motor mounts. It would definitely improve things drastically, but by having really worn engine mounts, it would put extra stress on the torque link itself and the rest of the engine would still move some though. By having mounts in decent shape, the entire engine will be still and you would notice the biggest performance gain.

But, I have seen one customer use the torque link to hold the engine in place with the front part of the crossmember completely separated from the rusted radiator support beam. So, I am confident the Engine Torque Link can hold up to any abuse you give it.

If the rubber in your engine mounts is completely separated from the metal, then I would recommend to get new ones or fill it with polyurethane resin and install the Torque Link around the same time. You will notice a HUGE performance increase.

Please let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks.

Edit: If you would like to fill your mounts with polyurethane, it will only cost about $30 and you'll be able to repair your worn mounts better than OEM. Here are a few pics of when I did mine on my old VE30DE engine: http://www.nwpengineering.com/morepics.htm

You can order the PU resin from www.mcmaster.com. It is part # 8644K11.