The NWP Engineering Engine Torque Link - Interest Thread
05-31-2011, 10:16 AM
#201
As promised I am back with the results from changing out my upper passenger side engine mount. After an arduous removal process (rounded off a nut on the bottom of the mount) I was able to install my ebay mount. The car feels much better now as a result. I am once again able to tighten down the NWP brace a few turns to brace the engine instead of having to almost completely tighten it. The old mount was in pretty rough shape, as the thinner rubber on the inside of the mount had torn away, and there were also some tears in the thicker rubber portions as well.
06-29-2011, 10:19 AM
#204
Right now, we have a Thermal Intake Spacer Kit in the works for the VQ40 Frontier/Pathfinder/Xterra. Once that is released (hopefully by this Winter), more projects can be put on the table for development. I have a LOT of awesome ideas for the Maxima that I can't speak about right now. But once we are able to make a prototype and prove gains, then I will make sure the world knows.
Doesn't a company already make a STS for your car? I like to concentrate on products that have never been made before in order to increase the number of products on the market for the Maxima.
06-29-2011, 10:27 AM
#205
...but you're right. It's nothing new. And the free-STS mod is just as good. And it's free.
The torque-link rocks. This is a must-have mod, people.
Last edited by Rochester; 06-29-2011 at 11:24 AM.
06-29-2011, 02:07 PM
#207
Yeah. It's a single-piece design at the tranny side, and kind of flimsy looking, IMO. If NWP made a two-piece design for both ends of the cable, like the old Watkins STS, which was a great little device...
...but you're right. It's nothing new. And the free-STS mod is just as good. And it's free.
The torque-link rocks. This is a must-have mod, people.
06-29-2011, 02:22 PM
#208
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 178
Yes the throttle response is a BIG imporvement with the ETL installed!! I disconnected the DR like you told me to try once i had the ETL installed and it felt good when i did. So what about a NWP plug and play shift kit for the Auto guys...?
06-29-2011, 04:03 PM
#210
From what I've read, the bracket's design from the 5.5 to the 6.0 gen was changed to strengthen the piece, if we're talking about the bracket that pivots from the shifter cable into the transmission. There were a few threads that talked through that quite a bit. Sparks did that to his, drag-racing his car at the track.
I don't think the average DD would have to worry about it. At least, I'm going to take some comfort in that assumption.
But since you brought it up... is NWP going to start manufacturing a replacement bracket that's better than the one from the 6.0 gen?
06-29-2011, 05:11 PM
#212
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Perhaps something to replace the crappy plastic 00-VI for us De-K guys? Or maybe an entirely new UIM out of aluminum instead of plastic? Now that would be sweet! BTW I'm still lovin' my torque link!
06-30-2011, 09:02 AM
#215
That would be primarily Maxima's that were driven hard, like at the track or the dragstrip... right?
From what I've read, the bracket's design from the 5.5 to the 6.0 gen was changed to strengthen the piece, if we're talking about the bracket that pivots from the shifter cable into the transmission. There were a few threads that talked through that quite a bit. Sparks did that to his, drag-racing his car at the track.
I don't think the average DD would have to worry about it. At least, I'm going to take some comfort in that assumption.
But since you brought it up... is NWP going to start manufacturing a replacement bracket that's better than the one from the 6.0 gen?
From what I've read, the bracket's design from the 5.5 to the 6.0 gen was changed to strengthen the piece, if we're talking about the bracket that pivots from the shifter cable into the transmission. There were a few threads that talked through that quite a bit. Sparks did that to his, drag-racing his car at the track.
I don't think the average DD would have to worry about it. At least, I'm going to take some comfort in that assumption.
But since you brought it up... is NWP going to start manufacturing a replacement bracket that's better than the one from the 6.0 gen?
But if you shift easy all the time, then you will probably be just fine. But if you ever plan to actually race the car, a beefy shifter bracket would be a great idea.
If you have any more questions or comments about this bracket, please post in the 'ideas for NWP' thread linked below and I'll respond there.
The 00vi isn't all that bad. But it could benefit from a custom IM. But, custom intake manifolds are very expensive to make. It would be tough for NWP to release one priced below $1000.
You're right.
--------------
If anybody has an idea for NWP, please post in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...5th-gen-5.html
But, if you have any comments about the NWP Engine Torque Link, please post. Here are some questions to spark an on topic discussion about the ETL.
Do you like it? Do you have any suggestions on how to make it better? Do you leave it connected during regular daily driving? Do you feel increased vibrations in the steering wheel? If so, are you bothered by it? How easy was it to install? How easy is it to disconnect and reconnect and adjust stiffness? Is your wheel hop improved? How has your ON/OFF throttle response improved? Any noticeable improvements in your 60 foot times at the track? If you have a manual transmission, how much easier is it to shift aggressively into the next gear?
06-30-2011, 09:19 AM
#216
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 178
Has anybody noticed a decrease in front end body roll with the ETL installed? Becasue I have, before I had the ETL I could feel the engine shift when coming into corner. And now my car feels flatter when in a corner. Anybody having the same results?
06-30-2011, 11:30 AM
#217
Image sliding a half full milk jug across the counter. The milk inside continues to move after the container stops sliding, causing the container to move forward some more. But if it was a frozen jug of milk, it would slide predictably across the counter.
That's my idea anyway. Whenever you brace the engine, the entire car will feel like what a sports car should!
06-30-2011, 06:53 PM
#218
If anybody has an idea for NWP, please post in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...5th-gen-5.html
For an additional price, offer powder-coating and bolts that don't rust. Same goes for the BOP... I just got some Ti-bolts today for the block off plate, because the original bolts can corrode after a year or two.
07-01-2011, 02:15 PM
#220
I'm pretty sure you don't want to talk about the polished finish on nuts & bolts. It was just a suggestion responding to your prompt. And this post is just a response to your question. Aaron, you already know I'm a strong proponent of your stuff here on the Org. This is just a suggestion, is all.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-01-2011 at 02:28 PM.
07-04-2011, 01:20 PM
#221
Zinc-plated hardware corrodes. The finish goes bye-bye in no time... it just does, man. It's not like stainless steel. Or titanium. For example, here's a picture of the M8x20 1.25-thread flange bolt that come with your Block-off Plate, after only less than a year. It's side-by-side with a polished titanium bolt of the same size.
I'm pretty sure you don't want to talk about the polished finish on nuts & bolts. It was just a suggestion responding to your prompt. And this post is just a response to your question. Aaron, you already know I'm a strong proponent of your stuff here on the Org. This is just a suggestion, is all.
IMG]http://www.johnclare.com/pics/cars/bop_bolts_01.jpg[/IMG]
I'm pretty sure you don't want to talk about the polished finish on nuts & bolts. It was just a suggestion responding to your prompt. And this post is just a response to your question. Aaron, you already know I'm a strong proponent of your stuff here on the Org. This is just a suggestion, is all.
IMG]http://www.johnclare.com/pics/cars/bop_bolts_01.jpg[/IMG]
The reason I chose to use a zinc plated steel bolt in the VIAS Block Plate Kit and Thermal Intake Spacer Kit is because it is very close to aluminum on the galvanic scale. This reduces the chance of the bolt seizing. So a zinc plated bolt was not only the most cost efficient for this kit, but I felt it would be the most reliable material and would reduce the chance of any customers having problems in the distant future.
Maybe they can be listed as an upgraded option.
07-04-2011, 08:03 PM
#223
07-05-2011, 01:30 PM
#226
Just ordered my block off plate yesterday, really into this tq Link for my 6mt now.
My question is, for those of you who have this mod, if I were to take my intake only six speed w no tq link up against the same car same mods same driver skills, would a car w the tq link be car lengths ahead of me, or just a fender on me because of the better throttle response?? Just a silly question I know, just wanted to see if the money/et ratio is really that good.
My question is, for those of you who have this mod, if I were to take my intake only six speed w no tq link up against the same car same mods same driver skills, would a car w the tq link be car lengths ahead of me, or just a fender on me because of the better throttle response?? Just a silly question I know, just wanted to see if the money/et ratio is really that good.
07-05-2011, 01:44 PM
#227
Just ordered my block off plate yesterday, really into this tq Link for my 6mt now.
My question is, for those of you who have this mod, if I were to take my intake only six speed w no tq link up against the same car same mods same driver skills, would a car w the tq link be car lengths ahead of me, or just a fender on me because of the better throttle response?? Just a silly question I know, just wanted to see if the money/et ratio is really that good.
My question is, for those of you who have this mod, if I were to take my intake only six speed w no tq link up against the same car same mods same driver skills, would a car w the tq link be car lengths ahead of me, or just a fender on me because of the better throttle response?? Just a silly question I know, just wanted to see if the money/et ratio is really that good.
And I guarantee you'll have a huge smile on your face as you're banging through the gears and the engine stays in place properly.
If anybody else has any input, please feel free to chime in.
07-05-2011, 03:35 PM
#230
stupid question and may have been answered but im wondering would this put lets stress on your mounts and more on the frame?.... for example lets say i had $200 and my mounts have 190k on them would it be better to change all the mounts or to buy the torque link? if the link stops my engine from moving and the warn mounts are stopping my engine from falling out wouldnt the link be all i need to compensate for the warn mounts?
07-06-2011, 10:09 AM
#231
stupid question and may have been answered but im wondering would this put lets stress on your mounts and more on the frame?.... for example lets say i had $200 and my mounts have 190k on them would it be better to change all the mounts or to buy the torque link? if the link stops my engine from moving and the warn mounts are stopping my engine from falling out wouldnt the link be all i need to compensate for the warn mounts?
But, I have seen one customer use the torque link to hold the engine in place with the front part of the crossmember completely separated from the rusted radiator support beam. So, I am confident the Engine Torque Link can hold up to any abuse you give it.
If the rubber in your engine mounts is completely separated from the metal, then I would recommend to get new ones or fill it with polyurethane resin and install the Torque Link around the same time. You will notice a HUGE performance increase.
Please let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks.
Edit: If you would like to fill your mounts with polyurethane, it will only cost about $30 and you'll be able to repair your worn mounts better than OEM. Here are a few pics of when I did mine on my old VE30DE engine: http://www.nwpengineering.com/morepics.htm
You can order the PU resin from www.mcmaster.com. It is part # 8644K11.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 07-06-2011 at 10:15 AM.
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