Driver Window Not Rolling Down - Motor or Switch?
Ok, I found another post where you had a picture of the SECU - looks like it's above the gas/brake pedal. Still no luck yet finding it in the FSM. (thanks Pastaben!)
I may try to pull this part at a junkyard and swap it out as a test.
Pastaben - initially, the troubleshooting on p.EL267 suggested 1. Power window switch 2. Window Regulator 3. Master Switch 4. Wiring harness, so ya - I never would have thought to look at the SECU.
I may try to pull this part at a junkyard and swap it out as a test.
Pastaben - initially, the troubleshooting on p.EL267 suggested 1. Power window switch 2. Window Regulator 3. Master Switch 4. Wiring harness, so ya - I never would have thought to look at the SECU.
Last edited by YoungMike85; Mar 2, 2019 at 07:48 PM.
So, played around with it tonight. I was able to get the window to roll back up by directly jumping the wires in the connector. At this point, I'm convinced it's the master switch. Hopefully I can pick one up from a junkyard, because the cheapest OEM replacement online that I've found is $260....yikes!
YoungMike,
My 5.5 had a problem with the driver side window. Unlike your issue it was isolated to the driver side window. The window struggled to move up on a couple of occasions and one day it barely made it back up so I decided not to use it until it was fixed. I brought it to a glass repair guy here in NY on Liberty Ave. They did not have a used motor but they sent me to a local place named Arch Auto to get a new replacement motor. I bought the motor and they replaced it in like 30 minutes. My car is fine now.
When I first read your post I was convinced it was the motor but now I am not sure that is the case.
My 5.5 had a problem with the driver side window. Unlike your issue it was isolated to the driver side window. The window struggled to move up on a couple of occasions and one day it barely made it back up so I decided not to use it until it was fixed. I brought it to a glass repair guy here in NY on Liberty Ave. They did not have a used motor but they sent me to a local place named Arch Auto to get a new replacement motor. I bought the motor and they replaced it in like 30 minutes. My car is fine now.
When I first read your post I was convinced it was the motor but now I am not sure that is the case.
YoungMike,
My 5.5 had a problem with the driver side window. Unlike your issue it was isolated to the driver side window. The window struggled to move up on a couple of occasions and one day it barely made it back up so I decided not to use it until it was fixed. I brought it to a glass repair guy here in NY on Liberty Ave. They did not have a used motor but they sent me to a local place named Arch Auto to get a new replacement motor. I bought the motor and they replaced it in like 30 minutes. My car is fine now.
When I first read your post I was convinced it was the motor but now I am not sure that is the case.
My 5.5 had a problem with the driver side window. Unlike your issue it was isolated to the driver side window. The window struggled to move up on a couple of occasions and one day it barely made it back up so I decided not to use it until it was fixed. I brought it to a glass repair guy here in NY on Liberty Ave. They did not have a used motor but they sent me to a local place named Arch Auto to get a new replacement motor. I bought the motor and they replaced it in like 30 minutes. My car is fine now.
When I first read your post I was convinced it was the motor but now I am not sure that is the case.
Turned out all the rubber in the tracks was dried out, so I squirted lithium grease all around the window frame
Works perfectly now.
Not yet. I tried resetting the system like Dennis suggested. I unplugged both switches on the front windows, and then disconnected the battery. Let it sit for 5 minutes, re-connected everything, no change. I'm not sure if I was also supposed to disconnect the 3 molex connectors at the SECU when doing this, but I was afraid that would cause more problems so I left it alone.
Another thing that has occurred to me is this - I wonder if it has something to do with the combination meter? Again, I'm not clear on what that is or what it does - but I do know that when I was trying to wire the steering wheel controls back after removing the stock unit, I noticed in the FSM that one of the wires in the harness is connected to the combination meter. Since I didn't need that connection for my aftermarket harness, it was never re-connected to anything. Could it be related to this somehow? Is the combination meter part of the circuit that communicates window and lock functions from the master to the passenger side?
Another thing that has occurred to me is this - I wonder if it has something to do with the combination meter? Again, I'm not clear on what that is or what it does - but I do know that when I was trying to wire the steering wheel controls back after removing the stock unit, I noticed in the FSM that one of the wires in the harness is connected to the combination meter. Since I didn't need that connection for my aftermarket harness, it was never re-connected to anything. Could it be related to this somehow? Is the combination meter part of the circuit that communicates window and lock functions from the master to the passenger side?
The rear door motors are not the same as the front doors. The motors in the left and right front doors are different from each other.
To test the motor without removing it from the door, remove the power window switch from the trim panel and unplug the wire harness. In the wire harness, locate the solid blue and solid green wires. These wires go to the motor. Jumper 12 volts to the green wire and ground to the blue wire and the window should go up. Reverse the jumper wire connections, 12 volts to the blue wire and ground to the green wire, and the window should go down. This will work on all 4 of the doors.
To test the motor without removing it from the door, remove the power window switch from the trim panel and unplug the wire harness. In the wire harness, locate the solid blue and solid green wires. These wires go to the motor. Jumper 12 volts to the green wire and ground to the blue wire and the window should go up. Reverse the jumper wire connections, 12 volts to the blue wire and ground to the green wire, and the window should go down. This will work on all 4 of the doors.
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