Berk Intake
#41
Zip ties are wonderfully versatile tools, and can be a functional, permanent solution.
However, try to do something you're proud of. It takes a lot of self-confidence to open the hood, look at a bunch of zip ties and think, "Yeah, baby!"
However, try to do something you're proud of. It takes a lot of self-confidence to open the hood, look at a bunch of zip ties and think, "Yeah, baby!"
#42
Ya I think I am going to take a run to Home Depot and see what I can find that wont look to tacky. Berk sent me blue cuplers to hold the intake together and i have a yellow top battery, so my engine bay is pretty colorful right now, (not to my liking) but ill see what I can do.
#43
True. I used black zip ties, so they blend in pretty nicely with the engine bay for the time being.
Don't get me wrong, I have no intention of keeping them there permanently. I'd just rather avoid potential damage caused by letting the SRI just hang freely. Once I figure out how to fabricate some kind of bracket, it will be done. It's just a quick-fix. Kind of like using duct tape on...unwelcomed or unexpected aerodynamic mods to the plastic on your car's body.
Don't get me wrong, I have no intention of keeping them there permanently. I'd just rather avoid potential damage caused by letting the SRI just hang freely. Once I figure out how to fabricate some kind of bracket, it will be done. It's just a quick-fix. Kind of like using duct tape on...unwelcomed or unexpected aerodynamic mods to the plastic on your car's body.
#44
#45
#46
To make a bracket you need a piece of steel about 6-7" long about 1" wide with a quarter inch hole drilled at both ends (1/2" away from the ends), a vice and an adjustable wrench. Place the metal in the vice perpendicular to the floor with about half of it showing. Take your adjustable wrench and tighten it on the bracket. Turn the wrench 90* (twist the metal 90*) Attach one end of the bracket to the hole near the strut tower with a 1/4" bolt. Bend the bracket by hand until it is inline with your maf adapter. Attach the other end to the maf adapter at one of the 4 holes.
#47
To make a bracket you need a piece of steel about 6-7" long about 1" wide with a quarter inch hole drilled at both ends (1/2" away from the ends), a vice and an adjustable wrench. Place the metal in the vice perpendicular to the floor with about half of it showing. Take your adjustable wrench and tighten it on the bracket. Turn the wrench 90* (twist the metal 90*) Attach one end of the bracket to the hole near the strut tower with a 1/4" bolt. Bend the bracket by hand until it is inline with your maf adapter. Attach the other end to the maf adapter at one of the 4 holes.
I take it you've got a lot of salt where you're at? Those nuts and bolts look like they've seen better days.
#51
Someone lied too you....cause the hose clamps are stainless steel and they're not rusted...stainless steel doesn't rust at all, especially like that in your picture...I use stainless on my headers and exhaust and they are rust free...even if salt is introduced into the equation....
#52
Someone lied too you....cause the hose clamps are stainless steel and they're not rusted...stainless steel doesn't rust at all, especially like that in your picture...I use stainless on my headers and exhaust and they are rust free...even if salt is introduced into the equation....
All I know is that I don't think the coating does a good job of what it's intended to do.
#53
I know most of those bolts are treated in some way or another. The ones that stick out in particular are the bolts on top of the strut mounts. I know they're treated with something to give them that gold-copper hue (copper plated?) but I don't remember.
All I know is that I don't think the coating does a good job of what it's intended to do.
All I know is that I don't think the coating does a good job of what it's intended to do.
#54
Thank you. I knew it wasn't copper plating, I just couldn't think of what they were actually coated with to slow down the corrosion.
#55
I used a custom bracket like knight did. The only problem I have is that because my MAF adapter is plastic, it is starting to develop a hairline crack on the hole that the bracket it mounted to.
And it is even mounted with a rubber bushing.
So it looks like I will be going back to a ziptie.
And it is even mounted with a rubber bushing.
So it looks like I will be going back to a ziptie.
#56
contrary to popular belief, stainless steel does indeed rust. It is not rustless steel. It is stainless steel. depends on the grade of stainless etc. There are a crapload of stainless steels out there, and these bolts were definitely stainless. And non magnetic
#58
T304 doesn't rust, but T409 does, due too the high ferrous content but not like that crap you had on your intake(chinese sh!+), yours looked more like it was chrome plated and the plating come off. That's really weird Knight my hardware on the exhaust isn't rusted yet after 4 yrs in the weather and extreme exhaust heat....I replaced all the Cattman provided hardware with high grade stainless steel on both header and catback...
#59
#63
a loss? thats interesting. i hope i havent lost any power. i'll race a 98 maxima see if he kicks my ***. the only way to prove it lol. my friend has an 01 and he barely beat me everytime. got the intake and i beat him... twice... so far i guess.
#66
#67
#68
Aviation AN hardware still is cadium plated...
Injen intake doesn't loss from a stock configuration but during 1/4 mile runs I noticed a flat spot during the 3rd gear change....and 14.6 sec/ 1/4mi....Intake was definitely holding me back....
Injen intake doesn't loss from a stock configuration but during 1/4 mile runs I noticed a flat spot during the 3rd gear change....and 14.6 sec/ 1/4mi....Intake was definitely holding me back....
#69
#70
I have since them made a more secure bracket. That one I had was not secure enough and actually snapped off the bolt tabs from both the MAF and the adapter plate.
Newer bracket is made out of same aluminum sotck but bolts to both top bolt tabs. Also replaced cheap plastic adapter plate with a all aluminum one.
Much more secure.
Newer bracket is made out of same aluminum sotck but bolts to both top bolt tabs. Also replaced cheap plastic adapter plate with a all aluminum one.
Much more secure.
#72
Very clever nismopc, connecting to both the top end bolts and arch cutting the strap to fit the MAF chamber ... this definitely would reduce the stress on connecting to just the one bolt ... very nice
#73
I use the hell out of my 4" bench grinder for all kinds of DIYer ****. Comes in handy when you don't have the 'right' tools...
...but then again, what is the 'right' tool for any DIY project?
#74
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...akes-00-a.html
Could buy one of these and save a few bucks...
Could buy one of these and save a few bucks...
#75
lol.. pretty much. i have the injen intake the practically drags along the road.. the bottom of the car is about an inch and a half off the ground and the intake is way down there. the intrance to the freeway was a little flooded but i thought it be ok. didn't make it got an engine flush.
#76
Never heard a Berk only on youtube and the Injen CAI but I went with the Injen for 280 and it was worth every penny and looks great and can definitely feel the power even on some heavy 20 inch rims!!
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maxima297
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-30-2015 03:32 PM