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Rear exhaust header removal concern. help!

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Old 05-03-2010 | 05:20 AM
  #1  
vq_ryder's Avatar
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Rear exhaust header removal concern. help!

So my obx headers/y-pipe will be here today. prior to installation later i took a look to see what kind of tools i would be needing, obviously it was pretty strait foward with some sockets, wrenches and a little elbow grease. but my concern is what is the fastest and easiest way to swap them out? the bottom bolts looks fine but the ones above the header im worried about. not to mention the cramped spacing you have to work with(i have large hands lol). i really do not want to remove the intake manifold to reach the top bolts but ill eventually find away. what do you guys think? what did you guys do? whats the best way and fastest way to remove the rear exhuast headers in you're opioun? any inputs will be considered. thanks.
Old 05-03-2010 | 06:19 AM
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There is simply NO fast way to remove the rear manifold if you have never been in there before. There are a couple of people who say they've done it without removing the intake manifold, but I really dont see how they got their hands back there.

My advise to you is make sure you have atleast 2 people with you. Also, make sure you have 2 days set aside. Most of you're time will be spent taking out the heat sheild and (if you have an 00-01) removing the intake manifold.

Make sure you have a crap load of various extentions, swivels, magnets for dropped bolts, channel locks, pliers, etc.. When you get to the heat sheild, cutting it is easier than bending it.
Old 05-03-2010 | 08:40 AM
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If you don't want to remove the IM, you just have to tilt the motor as much as you can to get your hands up in there. Removing the IM will just make life much simpler and it isn't hard to do. If you're going to be installing headers yourself, I'm sure the experience of removing the IM will come in handy for other jobs down the road as well.
Old 05-03-2010 | 11:19 AM
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Don't make things harder on yourself. It's already a hard enough job. Remove the i/m. When it comes to the heat shield do w.e it takes to get that BIT^C off. You'll think i'm joking since it's only 3 bolts... we'll see.. lol.

I personally cut mine in various places/bent it/ broke it/ went through hell to get it off. Than the rear manifolds are even more of a pita.. Take your time. Try not to get too irritated (yes, it's that much of a pain to instal) the end results will be worth it..

My best advice, DON'T RUSH! Take your time and do not use the wrong socket size or length. For thinner bolts don't try using a longer extension they will strip and you'll be fuc4d. If you feel the bolts are stripping find another tool that may better fit it. Don't try to use something that MIGHT work. Be sure it all works because stripped bolts imo are t he biggest pita when doing headers.

Gl.
Old 05-03-2010 | 03:09 PM
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Taking off your IM is a waste of time IMO... just use a long extension and a universal joint and you can do it. Also, if you have a friend with smaller hands that can be quite useful. I installed mine with an extension and universal joint. Later when we had to re-tighten the bolts a friend of mine with little hands just reached in with a regular socket wrench (it was a little awkward but he pulled it off)
Old 05-03-2010 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nzelinsky
Taking off your IM is a waste of time IMO... just use a long extension and a universal joint and you can do it. Also, if you have a friend with smaller hands that can be quite useful. I installed mine with an extension and universal joint. Later when we had to re-tighten the bolts a friend of mine with little hands just reached in with a regular socket wrench (it was a little awkward but he pulled it off)
yeah i think ill go over all im option and leave the intake manifold as a last option. looks like i gotta drop by sears for some tool updates. i dont have a real good feeling about this lol. but im sure itll be worth the pain. thanks guys.
Old 05-03-2010 | 07:04 PM
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Idk how you could get 2 bolts w.o taking off the i.m and going from the top unless you let the motor mounts loose as well as crossmember to give the motor play.. But I was just saying do it because it gives you sooo much more room. And with this instal, you're going to want every inch..

Just my 0.2.
Old 05-04-2010 | 05:23 AM
  #8  
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From: Orlando, FL
I got almost all the bolts off through the bottom, remove the bottom crossmember and then the bracket for the rear motor mount (both will need to be ground anyway for fitment issues). and you should be able to access the 2 bolts that hold the pre-cat to the rear manifold from the bottom, then there are 2 on the top. once the cat it out of the way, you should be able to get all the bolts out through the bottom now that you have the cleared space. As someone said, be sure to have various extensions and universal joints. You will most likely be working with a deep well 14mm because of the length of the studs so you will need various lengths to get them out in the right angle.

I will be posting a complete write up from when I did mine this past weekend. Prolly sometime later this week, keep an eye out for it.

Good luck!
Old 05-04-2010 | 08:01 AM
  #9  
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a0ave your self the hassel and remove the upper IM. i couldnt even see the header with the IM in the way plus its really easy to remove. but guess either way will work.
Old 05-04-2010 | 10:13 AM
  #10  
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You have to take of the bottom motor mount bracket and cross member to grind them if you have obx headers so you can rock the motor to get the bolts
Old 05-04-2010 | 10:36 AM
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take IM off. I have large hands tho. I took bottom cross member off as well. Loosened the top bolts standing in my engine bay, then went under the car to remove all 6.

took me around 4 hours for install with air tools.


I really think you need the room.
Old 05-04-2010 | 08:59 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by TheOnlyDRAGooN
I got almost all the bolts off through the bottom, remove the bottom crossmember and then the bracket for the rear motor mount (both will need to be ground anyway for fitment issues). and you should be able to access the 2 bolts that hold the pre-cat to the rear manifold from the bottom, then there are 2 on the top. once the cat it out of the way, you should be able to get all the bolts out through the bottom now that you have the cleared space. As someone said, be sure to have various extensions and universal joints. You will most likely be working with a deep well 14mm because of the length of the studs so you will need various lengths to get them out in the right angle.

I will be posting a complete write up from when I did mine this past weekend. Prolly sometime later this week, keep an eye out for it.

Good luck!
That'll be awsome dude. itll give me more guidence of how to get back there. the faster the better. thanks.
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