What is the best intake?
Putting a filter on the VC causes a lean condition @ idle. This is because unmetered air is entering the engine, i.e. not being accounted/compensated for.
I had that set-up for long time, but would rather not do it again if done right, you would find a way to get the hose back into the mix the way it was in the first place.
I had that set-up for long time, but would rather not do it again if done right, you would find a way to get the hose back into the mix the way it was in the first place.
Get rid of that silver tube between the MAF and the throttle body.
Put the stock Helmholtz resonator back in. This will give you the stock location to plug the hose into.
It can be argued that there will be any gains from deleting the resonator anyway...
Put the stock Helmholtz resonator back in. This will give you the stock location to plug the hose into.
It can be argued that there will be any gains from deleting the resonator anyway...
I have dynos comparing a straight resonator vs the OEM helmholtz.
OEM = smoothest curve
Straight = 1-2 hp gain post 6k, and a bit more non-linear power delivery & far louder.
It has also been seen in Z33 dynos (straight non-helmholtz) as well as in the VQ30DE which showed the same behavior as mine.
OEM
Straight Berk midpipe
OEM = smoothest curve
Straight = 1-2 hp gain post 6k, and a bit more non-linear power delivery & far louder.
It has also been seen in Z33 dynos (straight non-helmholtz) as well as in the VQ30DE which showed the same behavior as mine.
OEM
Straight Berk midpipe
I put a filter on the Breather.
Good info with the dyno runs.
I chose to stay with the Helmholtz because of the smoother curve, and the ability for me to keep my stock breather intact.
Really a personal preference, assuming that you get a mid pipe that has a breather bung.
I chose to stay with the Helmholtz because of the smoother curve, and the ability for me to keep my stock breather intact.
Really a personal preference, assuming that you get a mid pipe that has a breather bung.
No adjustments necessary IMO.
Sooner, I tried my best to keep this as technical as possible. I hadn't brought up the resonator in a while so this is good for the newbies who have not seen it.
Sooner, I tried my best to keep this as technical as possible. I hadn't brought up the resonator in a while so this is good for the newbies who have not seen it.
Especially in the RSRI form. 
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Putting a filter on the VC causes a lean condition @ idle. This is because unmetered air is entering the engine, i.e. not being accounted/compensated for.
I had that set-up for long time, but would rather not do it again if done right, you would find a way to get the hose back into the mix the way it was in the first place.
I had that set-up for long time, but would rather not do it again if done right, you would find a way to get the hose back into the mix the way it was in the first place.
Putting a filter on the VC merely lets it vent to atmosphere instead of having a vacuum applied from the intake. The valve cover does not draw in air, but in fact pushes it out. As long as you plug or delete the hole on your intake, there will be absolutely 0 unmetered air being taken in. Obviously if you just leave the nipple for the VC hose open, it will be sucking in air.
Also, just for the sake of argument, when the VC hose is connected to the intake there actually is a small amount of unmetered air (and oil) entering the engine from the valve cover. It's a very small amount since the VC is sealed with the exception of the vent, though. Regardless, the engine gets more unmetered air with the hose in tact than it does with a filter on it, which is quite the opposite of your claims.
I could also point out that I have had a filter on my VC for almost 2 years with some of the quickest 5.5 N/A times out there, plus that I do not have a lean condition at idle or otherwise. And yes, I do have a wideband to keep up with such things.
Should you not agree, please take a moment with MS paint and this picture and circle where the unmetered air is entering the intake.
Last edited by sparks03max; May 19, 2010 at 09:13 PM.
Ill go off topic like crystalline for a sec too. i did my own Torque link. i used 2 pieces of 1/4 inch steel angle iron shaped as such... L . i bolted them to the same place NWP uses, the frame and the pass side upper motor mount. Attaching the 2 is an eye bolt on each angle iron connected by a left and right hand threaded bolt such as you would find on a tie rod. i tightened this up until i saw the slack taken out then i gave it 2 more full turns of tightening. I noticed a few things, the car exhibits more vibration which is to be expected. The vibration is actually welcome as it reminds me of my my 68 Camaro and other muscle cars. Also you notice when in park and revving the engine the movement is basically eliminated. As for wheel hop. I still get it. In the wet no but if i am on dry pavement i still notice the jarring hop. There may be a millisecond less delay when getting into the throttle. All in all im glad i have it. I haven't tested a before and after full throttle drag run or run down the street so there may be something i haven't felt yet. As for when it shifts i haven't noticed a decrease in time (Which you wouldn't anyway as the tranny decides that) from each shift but have felt a slight more grab to each gear if that makes sense. But had i spent 160 for it i would be very mad at the cost vs effectiveness ratio.
Did you know that a chain will do the samething.....Ole school hotrodders used chains to limit the engine movement and prevent broken engine mount for the cheap!
Putting a filter on the VC causes a lean condition @ idle. This is because unmetered air is entering the engine, i.e. not being accounted/compensated for.
I had that set-up for long time, but would rather not do it again if done right, you would find a way to get the hose back into the mix the way it was in the first place.
I had that set-up for long time, but would rather not do it again if done right, you would find a way to get the hose back into the mix the way it was in the first place.
No offense intended, but you are wrong here.
Putting a filter on the VC merely lets it vent to atmosphere instead of having a vacuum applied from the intake. The valve cover does not draw in air, but in fact pushes it out. As long as you plug or delete the hole on your intake, there will be absolutely 0 unmetered air being taken in. Obviously if you just leave the nipple for the VC hose open, it will be sucking in air.
Also, just for the sake of argument, when the VC hose is connected to the intake there actually is a small amount of unmetered air (and oil) entering the engine from the valve cover. It's a very small amount since the VC is sealed with the exception of the vent, though. Regardless, the engine gets more unmetered air with the hose in tact than it does with a filter on it, which is quite the opposite of your claims.
I could also point out that I have had a filter on my VC for almost 2 years with some of the quickest 5.5 N/A times out there, plus that I do not have a lean condition at idle or otherwise. And yes, I do have a wideband to keep up with such things.
Should you not agree, please take a moment with MS paint and this picture and circle where the unmetered air is entering the intake.
Putting a filter on the VC merely lets it vent to atmosphere instead of having a vacuum applied from the intake. The valve cover does not draw in air, but in fact pushes it out. As long as you plug or delete the hole on your intake, there will be absolutely 0 unmetered air being taken in. Obviously if you just leave the nipple for the VC hose open, it will be sucking in air.
Also, just for the sake of argument, when the VC hose is connected to the intake there actually is a small amount of unmetered air (and oil) entering the engine from the valve cover. It's a very small amount since the VC is sealed with the exception of the vent, though. Regardless, the engine gets more unmetered air with the hose in tact than it does with a filter on it, which is quite the opposite of your claims.
I could also point out that I have had a filter on my VC for almost 2 years with some of the quickest 5.5 N/A times out there, plus that I do not have a lean condition at idle or otherwise. And yes, I do have a wideband to keep up with such things.
Should you not agree, please take a moment with MS paint and this picture and circle where the unmetered air is entering the intake.
I dont see how it can cause a lean condition at idle. It's only logical that you would of course put a vacum cap of some sort on the opening that is now created on the intake tube when the hose is removed. Right? But if one were to be silly enough to leave it open, why would it only cause a lean condition at idle? Is this because of the change in manifold pressure?
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This^
I dont see how it can cause a lean condition at idle. It's only logical that you would of course put a vacum cap of some sort on the opening that is now created on the intake tube when the hose is removed. Right? But if one were to be silly enough to leave it open, why would it only cause a lean condition at idle? Is this because of the change in manifold pressure?
I dont see how it can cause a lean condition at idle. It's only logical that you would of course put a vacum cap of some sort on the opening that is now created on the intake tube when the hose is removed. Right? But if one were to be silly enough to leave it open, why would it only cause a lean condition at idle? Is this because of the change in manifold pressure?
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Haha I didn't say you were dense, but I did want you to explain where all this unmetered air is coming into the intake. Are you implying that the valve covers are connected to the intake manifold in another place and the filter causes a vacuum leak? Even though that is not the case, it would be the only way I could see your theory working. Maybe you had some other factors at work.
They are connected to the IM via PCV.
I never said it would help WOT/ET’s/dynos, hell the fastest A32B has dual breathers, and mine had a breather when I hit 242. It’s only for drivability, since we all know what happens under high load/WOT re: PCV operation.
I had to ‘tune’ out the lean-ness when I had it installed (breather), w/o it now, I can go back to keeping my corr%’s @ 0, vs +12% @ idle, this may be a MT/AT difference.
It’s been spoken about quite a bit, not as much as intakes, but near infinium prior to probably everyone in this threads join date.
I never said it would help WOT/ET’s/dynos, hell the fastest A32B has dual breathers, and mine had a breather when I hit 242. It’s only for drivability, since we all know what happens under high load/WOT re: PCV operation.
I had to ‘tune’ out the lean-ness when I had it installed (breather), w/o it now, I can go back to keeping my corr%’s @ 0, vs +12% @ idle, this may be a MT/AT difference.
It’s been spoken about quite a bit, not as much as intakes, but near infinium prior to probably everyone in this threads join date.
Last edited by NmexMAX; May 21, 2010 at 06:14 AM.
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agreed i know lots of GN guys that do this with a ratchet type seatbelt looking thing. just keeps the engine from rocking. i can take a pic tomorrow to show the DIY way i did it
^Actually I've got a serious question regarding this^
I know on 4th gen 00vi swaps, you can leave these two open and the VI will still activate by way of RPM switch of course. Why cant you leave it open on a 5th gen?
I know on 4th gen 00vi swaps, you can leave these two open and the VI will still activate by way of RPM switch of course. Why cant you leave it open on a 5th gen?
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
–nounAutomotive. a means of reducing air pollution by directing the fumes from the crankcase of an engine into the intake manifold, so that they will be channeled into the cylinders and burned. Abbreviation: PCV
–nounAutomotive. a means of reducing air pollution by directing the fumes from the crankcase of an engine into the intake manifold, so that they will be channeled into the cylinders and burned. Abbreviation: PCV
can we make a thread/sticky called 'the ultimate intake thread' put all of our collective knowledge into it, and then auto delete any new intake threads? seems like it would make the most sense as intakes are not very complicated...and it comes up every 5 new threads.
