being a senior member , i vote to ask what topic HASN'T been beat to death?

 

Every topic has been beaten to death, that's why it's good to take a new look &/or approach to it.

I remember when we thought 2.5" exhausts were "it". Back in the day when MT swaps on A32's were Now tehy happen everyday, same with the VQ35 swap in A32's.

Launch control/UTEC/Cam installs/HR double shimmed springs. It's great, Deck's build, things are awesome.

 

I must admit that the 3" exhaust, UTEC and launch control have made some huge improvements for me. None of those would have happened without some pioneering on the part of forum members even though the topics of exhaust and tuning had been "beat to death" already.

 

Someone mentioned going to a 3" pipe with a smaller maf. Problem is the air speeds up when it goes through the smaller maf then slows down again once it gets past the maf into the large tube again. this will cause some turbulence at the back end of the maf.

The apexi filter will not fit on a velocity stack, you need a filter with a 6" opening. SO AEM, or K&N or that new brand that cattman is selling which has slipped my mind.

 

RC2?

 

^ that sounds right

 

That is true, but should the piping go from (basic example) 3.25" > 3" > 2.75" > TB, it *could* theoretically cause some increased velocity/flow by the time it reaches the TB compared to a straight 2.75" pipe.

I'm going to try and have a couple of setups like that to test when I eventually hit a dyno since I have all the assorted toys/supplies needed for it already from my 5000000 intake projects.

It can work similarly with exhaust scavenging. Going from small piping at the engine and stepping up to wider and wider piping to the exit can cause an increase in cylinder scavenging/velocity compared to just the small pipe or the largest pipe would cause by itself.

To the guy asking about the 2.75" CAI piping, I would say go ahead on the 3" piping from the filter to the MAF, but like knight said, don't go back to bigger piping after the MAF as that could cause some turbulence.

 

Do that Sparks! I understand your approach.....I'll be using a 4" intake tube that reduces to the turbo inlet of 2.5 " via a silicon coupling.....back too you though the velocity I believe well increase but your volume won't. Maybe 3.5"> 3.25">3">TB will increase the velocity and volume.....How your slightly angled Black intake looks really good...Did it move your torque/hp down a little lower on the graph? Not making less power but lower on the rpm powerband....Your approach was similar to mine, not going too short, but at the same time wanting to have more torque so lenghtening the intake tube a little would increase the torque but without making it to long and restricting the upper rpm!

 

Haven't tested the 3.5" at the track yet. Before it gets tested, I am going to do a bit of grinding/smoothing to make the transitions between coupler/pipe/velocity stack and even the TB (If I can make it go straight out from the TB) very smooth. Of course, results will have to be taken with a grain of salt, as I will also be adding the torque link and a new transmission with a 4.1FD instead of the stock 3.8.

My most recent PB (8.2@85 1/8th) was done with a 3" OD (exhaust piping) short ram that sits just over my CAI hole with the headlight out. The slightly angled one you were talking about. I can't say for sure what it did to the powerband, but midrange and topend feel fantastic, those 85+ traps can attest to that.

More velocity through the same sized pipe is directly equal to more volume being moved. A good resource for stuff like this (fluid dynamics, velocity, etc) is ls1tech on their advanced engineering section. Sure, they aren't directly talking about VQs, but most of the principles still work the same.

Reading over on my350z, that new Z manifold with the 90MM elbow and 90MM TB + bigger plenum volume that uses the MREV lower seems to make 20-30whp for them over a spacer stock top/TB + MREV2 setup. Someone needs to do a well ported SSIM and replace the elbow with a 80-90MM pipe and matching TB on a cammed car... of course the big TB would probably require a standalone to even use

 

Is that a 6th gen 6spd trans?

 

Intake discussion aside for a moment... the torque link is next on my list. Probably after Maxus, depending on petty cash this summer. My point being, you're not shy about your opinions, Sparks, (cue the laugh track), so I'm looking forward to reading your impressions on this shiny little bar.

So heads up, man. If you think there's enough to talk about, start a thread on it and see what unfolds.

 

Sure thing. I feel bad for my Maxima, I've been going out there and starting it up every few days but not going to drive it anywhere until the new trans is in.

The one I'll be using is identical to a 6th gen trans, a 05-06 Spec V trans (always comes with HLSD) with bellhousing swapped over for the VQ. They are cheaper, easier to find, and always have HLSD, unlike the rare HLSD in 04-05 Maximas, and no HLSD in 06 maximas.

 

HLSD stands for Heli LSD or Hypoid LSD?

 

Helical

 

If this helps, every day when I go to work I have to take a very sharp on ramp which dumps directly onto the highway without a merging lane to build up speed. 60%+ throttle yielded wheel hop when turning on to the highway and trying not to get hit by other cars/trucks. With the torque link installed along with my headers y pipe (so the car is making more power now) the wheel hop is gone.

Does this mean anything at the track? I don't know. I never had much wheel hop in a straight line just while turning and trying to floor it But its totally been worth the money for me.

p.s. Would new motor mounts have done the same thing? better to be blissfully ignorant


Back to the intake for sec... MAYBE ONE DAY KNIGHTS PACKAGE WILL ARRIVE AT MY HOUSE GD CANADIAN POSTAL SERVICE

 

with good suspension mods (springs, struts, LTB) and good tires on my 02 6MT, I only got wheel hop from a start...above 20mph, all the power went to the street

 

That made for good reading. I'm looking forward to reading more stories about the NWP Torque Connector. Someone should start a 5th gen thread about it...

 

Ill go off topic like crystalline for a sec too. i did my own Torque link. i used 2 pieces of 1/4 inch steel angle iron shaped as such... L . i bolted them to the same place NWP uses, the frame and the pass side upper motor mount. Attaching the 2 is an eye bolt on each angle iron connected by a left and right hand threaded bolt such as you would find on a tie rod. i tightened this up until i saw the slack taken out then i gave it 2 more full turns of tightening. I noticed a few things, the car exhibits more vibration which is to be expected. The vibration is actually welcome as it reminds me of my my 68 Camaro and other muscle cars. Also you notice when in park and revving the engine the movement is basically eliminated. As for wheel hop. I still get it. In the wet no but if i am on dry pavement i still notice the jarring hop. There may be a millisecond less delay when getting into the throttle. All in all im glad i have it. I haven't tested a before and after full throttle drag run or run down the street so there may be something i haven't felt yet. As for when it shifts i haven't noticed a decrease in time (Which you wouldn't anyway as the tranny decides that) from each shift but have felt a slight more grab to each gear if that makes sense. But had i spent 160 for it i would be very mad at the cost vs effectiveness ratio.

 

Jeff, I'm pretty sure the benefits are more keenly felt in a 6MT. But that's just conjecture, since I don't have the first hand experience yet. Either way, props for your ingenuity.

 

Wheel hop is still largely caused by play in the suspension (compounded by bad/old bushings) allowing the wheels to travel forward and lose traction then "hop" back into place, gain traction again, and the process starts all over.

Basically, the torque link CAN help with wheel hop and possibly limit damage caused by wheel hop by stopping the engine/trans from moving, but it will not remedy the primary cause of it.

I'll bet right now (before even installing it) the biggest difference I will see is in shifting. Right now when shifting, the engine rocks violently and of course the shifter cables have to move with it making it more difficult to get into the next gear. In addition, the energy required to move the engine that much is wasted on moving it instead of propelling the car forward (thus people feel "crisper" or "quicker" shifts even in autos). It should also take some stress off of the flex-section on the Y-pipe and reduce wear and tear on the engine mounts.

Traction bars or new bushings would make a big step towards stopping wheel hop as well, but IMO the torque link is useful regardless of how much it helps wheel hop.

 

Just did a little testing and yes it did improve my shift from 2nd to 3rd at WOT which before was the hardest shift to hit. Its smooth now I didn't really notice before until sparks mentioned it and I just went out and drove around for a bit. I also changed my gear oil this weekend which might have helped as well.

Just to reiterate again, before the install I only got a lot of wheel hop when pushing the car from a dead stop on a curve moving to a straightaway(60% - WOT)

When launching the car straight I could drop the clutch from 4k and control my throttle at launch and not get any wheel hop (or very very little), If I tried like a 6 grand drop into WOT Im sure it would have had wheel hop with or without the torque link installed.

 

That makes sense, because the engine/tranny are more stable.

Another thing that improves your gear shift stability would be ES bushings underneath the shifter assembly. It's one of those yeah, right mods, but the proof is in the pudding. Do it and you'll see.

 

I actually have them. My sig is missing a couple small mods I just listed the big ones.

edit : its actually in my signature its just not showing it when I post??

edit edit : when i edited my sig showed up! wtf???

 

I don't know. Browser cache issues, maybe.

Just to clarify for the casual observer: I was referring to the ES bushings underneath the shifter assembly, not the banjo bushings on both ends of the shifter cable.

 

I really want to do those on my car.

 

unfortunately this thread is off topic with the torque link comments, but oh well. I just installed the torque link myself, and I notice a difference in shifts and the overall feel of the car. I have an auto. I personally like the extra vibration. It makes the car feel more tight and sporty. It's also nice to only have to take a few seconds to take the brace off if my wife will be driving the car. The quarter mile time in my sig was without nwp vias plate, torque link, timing advance, headers, and vafc tune. I'll be returning to the track mid to early June to see what the improvement is. I also plan to start a thread on my impressions of the nwp torque link at the track. Ok...sorry...back on topic.

 

I'm sure this beat to death 18 page long topic can handle a few off topic posts, so don't feel too bad.

 

those are great...i had all the bushing (and STS) and it greatly improved the floppy notchy shifter

 

Surprising, wasn't it? When I first went to install them, (after the banjo bushings) I realized what a total PITA it would be. Good thing I threw them in the glove box instead of throwing them away. Many months later, I found them again, and decided to figure it out.

Here's a how-to, for anyone who want to pursue this (Craig), with pictures on how to remove your center console:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-assembly.html

The fun thing about threads like this (What is the best intake?)... going off-topic is inevitable and random.

 

And there's lots of cool hidden shat in these threads. GHusltles thread has some of the most random, yet helpful items in there. i.e. pics of early model A33B VB's and late model VB's, something not even I knew about.

 

im gonna get back on topic for a bit here. getting back to Sparks and NMex regarding the CAI vs SRI, i removed the cold air and installed the SRI. It consists of TB-3in ID X 6in pipe- MAF- 2.75in ID X 6in pipe with 22 degree turn to clear the shock tower then the filter (no vel. stack). I didn't notice before but the power feels more constant. Meaning when the CAI was on it would get going but at 3-4k it would just haul. If i was lightly touching the throttle and then goosed it, it wouldn't feel like much. Once i put the SRI on the power feels more constant. If i start from 0 and go thru the gears it seems linear like through any RPM there aren't any dead spots. If i am lightly on the throttle with the SRI and goose it i can feel it pull in any RPM range. Again this is my butt dyno so where the changes really took place i cant for a fact say. One thing that may be doing it is i left the hole for the CAI pipe open so it may get some of the cooler air from that area along with the shorter piping making for a CSRI (cold short ram intake). I haven't done any highway driving with higher speeds than 50 yet so i will know tomorrow if it is better up top as well.

 

I see more airflow on my SRI vs any other intake I've had.



I should compare all my other intakes to this one. It be difficult to do this with different MAF sizes since, well it's obvious as to why. This is MAF volume reading.

 

Besides the hose being connected(Vacuum). And is it a good idea
to get a mini size filter to place instead of the hose?

 

Is the front valve cover breather tube just open at the end?

 

yeah. but do you think its a good idea for me to replace that hose with a small filter?

 

That's what I did and I've had no issues.

 

So what is better this setup, excluding the tube, Which im thinking of putting a filter on it, or the INJEN?

 

Injen you're paying for an over-priced intake that nets minimal gains.

This will perform way better than the Injen ever can hope to.

Make sure you get a filter over that breather tube. Leaving that open like that could introduce contaminants into your valve cover. They're $10 at Autozone.

 

Exact same set-up I have works fine gives engine a great tone as well. Agreed about the breather tube.

 

yea get a filter on that breather port, and STAY AWAY from injen

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-happened.html
^check it out^