on the 3.0 what do u guys do with the sensor thats on a the snorkel??

 

i would like to see some pictures of 3.0's with intakes.

 

3.0's have the IACV and related lines, so a little more complicated with respect to idling issues.

 

X2

 

^ if I could just find my camera charger

 

well i did mine today thanks to all the ricer parts courtesy of autozone, took me a bit due to all the damn vacumm line but not to bad

 

just ziptie it somewhere near the intake...it will be fine

 

Is he talking about the 5.0 gen's IAT? I always wondered where that model's temp sensor was.

 

RSRI-REAL SHORT RAM INTAKE or SSRI!!!! The Stub! LOL!!!! No Torque?????

 

This short ram = the blue line

 

wat a pain it was to do vacumm line after vacumm line the other one i just left near the filter, i must say it does run smoothly

 

Back to the lean condition issue.. as noted in the PCV diagram, @ idle/low loads/throttle angles, it will be lean, pretty much only @ idle.

Lean isn't good for cats/precats as we all know.

 

NmexMAX, a small vacuum leak would cause the car to run lean, right? What are the symptoms of a lean A/F ratio that doesn't throw a CEL?

 

Erratic/funky idle and that's about it. Turn the AC on and see if it goes away.

 

No, no... I'm good. I just want to know because, well, it's good to know.

So on the other hand, if you were running rich, you could also have a funky idle and rough ride, but in this case accompanied by smell and pinging?

 

It would have to be ungodly rich to affect the idle.

Throttle tip would stumble in very rich conditions. Mine has done this. In the summer, when I had the VC vented to atmosphere, I would see lean, so I added a bit of fuel @ around idle, and when I’d turn the AC on, it would go too rich, meaning it would idle fine, but once throttle increased ever so slightly, I’d see it go way rich and the car would semi stumble.


Too much of a horses pooch to be adjusting with respect to seasons, etc, so I decided to connect the PCV hose the way it was meant.

So, even @ 10.0 the idle will be fine. If you have a test pipe, the smell will be different. Pinging typically only occurs under load under different conditions, so I don’t think this would occur @ idle.

 

Let's try another approach. If pinging occurs because of timing advanced too far, or running rich with pre-ignition, then a vacuum leak couldn't cause pinging because you'd be running lean... is that about right?

No, wait. This is even more direct: could an IM leak cause low-end pinging between 700 and 1200 RPM?

 

Pinging also occurs when lean. In short, I don't think your pinging is related to an air leak.

 

LMFAO!!

 

Thank you.

Dude, I don't know where you've been this last year, but I love that you're around again.

Anyway... my quest continues.

High octane & octane boost - no.
Seafoam upper-engine cleaning - no.
New Mass Air Flow Sensor - no.

Time to see my mechanic, I think.

 

The last time I dyno’d I went quite lean, about 13.8, and the method was using a SAFCII, and I have Z33 injectors. The timing curve jumped about 2-3º globally ... so the fact that it is compounded by me taking fuel out and leaning the AFR didn’t cause any SK. I noticed a lot of SK on my A32, I wonder why.

 

VQ35 heads have better knock suppression...

 

It went way after I changed my KS though.

 

4th gen KS sucks...

 

 

What were your impressions of the RSRI with respect to low-end/midrange/top-end power?

 

Noise. I then went back to the stock airbox & LRMAF.


Power delivery wasn’t consistent as seen in that dyno. I plan on dynoing sooner rather than later and this will show the gains of the velocity stack, albeit not peak #’s, but rather a smoother curve.

There are still a few myths to dispel for me.

Smoothest delivery = OEM Helmholtz. I need to find all the pieces to mine.
Does the ‘MAF screen help laminar flow, and if so, does it do for power delivery? The LR has a honeycomb, but as seen in my dynos power delivery left something to be desired. My current MAF housing does not have a screen/honeycomb, it has nothing.

 

I'm gonna go ahead and go with a 3" MAF housing and my JWT pop charger/velocity stack and see how I like it in terms of driveability.

Is closed loop operation affected with a 3" MAF housing? Did you change sensor outputs on the SAFC2? I need to look into how to do it on EU...

 

That's the whole point, isn't it? It certainly isn't there to catch debris.

 

Sorry if this is OT, but what are the screws called that attach the MAF to the intake? They look like a star pattern...

 

I'm trying to figure this out as well. I know we should just be able to adjust one of the little pot screws inside the unit but it seems like no one knows how to do this except for maybe greddy and sr20den.

 

The shatty thing is, the Ultimate doesn't have any pot screws. It's 100% software driven. I'll have to call GReddy sometime and be like WTF man how do I adjust for large MAF housing.

 

Torx

 

Re: emu, is there an application list somewhere and if so, is the q45 an option?

 

I'll check.

 

Heck, dandy used to run mafless with multiple maps for certain weather conditions.

 

I'm not looking to do a MAP sensor conversion + temp correction maps...

 

Couldn't find more than these.

http://forums.maxima.org/5003701-post143.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4921445-post38.html

 

Actually its called "tamperproof torx". Notice the hole in the top of the torx tool.

http://www.amazon.com/pc-Tamper-Proo.../dp/B0009U6ABE

 

That seems to be true on some, but not all. Mine are standard Torx heads, on my original MAF and my new one. I can't explain why these MAF screws vary from car to car, but they do.