Got fed up of klunking noises
06-26-2010, 07:25 PM
#1
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Location: Montréal, Qc, Canada
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Got fed up of clunking noises
Well, I finally decided to throw some money at the Max.
- ES suspension bushings all around
- Moog tie rods
- Moog Ball joints
- New inner tie rods
- Tokico Illumina
- Fuel filter
- Spark plugs
- Clutch Master and Slave
- In cabin Filter
- ES shifter bushings
- Half shaft support bearings
- Brake calipers overhaul
- A bit of body work to remove some rusted area
So here are a few pics, Ill update this thread as the work progress.
I pressed out all bushings from the original lower control arms, buffed them, repainted and applied a coat of rubber guard to the exposed area.
Here are interesting comparision between OEM and Moog
- ES suspension bushings all around
- Moog tie rods
- Moog Ball joints
- New inner tie rods
- Tokico Illumina
- Fuel filter
- Spark plugs
- Clutch Master and Slave
- In cabin Filter
- ES shifter bushings
- Half shaft support bearings
- Brake calipers overhaul
- A bit of body work to remove some rusted area
So here are a few pics, Ill update this thread as the work progress.
I pressed out all bushings from the original lower control arms, buffed them, repainted and applied a coat of rubber guard to the exposed area.
Here are interesting comparision between OEM and Moog
Last edited by ColtMax; 06-28-2010 at 08:57 AM.
06-26-2010, 07:34 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
My dad was fed up with the front end clunk in his 2k as well.
I replaced the sway bar to frame bushings in his car today.. Noise was completely gone. Pretty happy about it for the few $ per side.
Let us know how it fares with noises/feel, etc.
I replaced the sway bar to frame bushings in his car today.. Noise was completely gone. Pretty happy about it for the few $ per side.
Let us know how it fares with noises/feel, etc.
06-27-2010, 06:19 AM
#3
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- One ball joint shot
- One tie rod gone
- Sway bar bushings worned out
- One shock leaking
- Roll Engine mount cracked
So I guess the work I am doing now will get the car to feel a lot better.
wish i could do this...
06-28-2010, 07:06 PM
#9
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I have not changed the control arms, they are OEM and freshly repainted.
For the cost of suspension and steering parts, it was very reasonable. I bought everything from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com except for the inner tie rod that i got from http://www.conicelli.com for 50 bucks each:
Make your list
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...n+Maxima+2002#
Excellent service by the way! Fast, accurate and good price.
For the cost of suspension and steering parts, it was very reasonable. I bought everything from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com except for the inner tie rod that i got from http://www.conicelli.com for 50 bucks each:
Make your list
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...n+Maxima+2002#
Excellent service by the way! Fast, accurate and good price.
Last edited by ColtMax; 06-29-2010 at 03:57 AM.
06-29-2010, 09:10 AM
#13
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08-08-2010, 06:42 PM
#21
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It is messy because of the fluid inside the mount but it is fairly easy to do.
1- you have to cut the mout at two places until you reach the last metal layer.
2- empty the mount by punching, cutting, drilling into the rubber mount.
3- prying the inner sleeve near the cutted areas.
4- remove the sleev
(Ill take better pictures tomorrow when I do the other one.
08-08-2010, 07:15 PM
#22
Did the control arm bushings come in full for $50+, or is it one box per side? It looks like the full set.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118
08-08-2010, 07:21 PM
#23
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Did the control arm bushings come in full for $50+, or is it one box per side? It looks like the full set.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118
08-08-2010, 07:34 PM
#25
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08-08-2010, 08:18 PM
#26
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Posts: 239
Sorry for hte ignorant, non mecanic education questiuon, but....are hte bushigs hard to install (plug and play) or do they take and educated understanding. how long should they take, and if I took to my mechanic, what should I expect to pay. I have been living with the front end klunk when I go over the bumps, had shocks replaced, but still ahve the noise.
thx
thx
08-09-2010, 06:03 AM
#27
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Your clunking might be caused by the Sway bar link kits or the sway bar bushings.
2 hours should be enough for any good mechanic to replace those parts.
30$ each side for the link kit and 20$ for both bushings.
For the control arms bushing, I would say a good 2-3 hours per side + 50$ for the bushings.
I am only doing mechanic for fun, so I can't really tell how long would take a professional.
2 hours should be enough for any good mechanic to replace those parts.
30$ each side for the link kit and 20$ for both bushings.
For the control arms bushing, I would say a good 2-3 hours per side + 50$ for the bushings.
I am only doing mechanic for fun, so I can't really tell how long would take a professional.
Last edited by ColtMax; 08-09-2010 at 06:07 AM.
08-09-2010, 06:10 AM
#28
Did the control arm bushings come in full for $50+, or is it one box per side? It looks like the full set.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118
I'm having new lower ball joints (Moog) installed in a few weeks. (And those subframe collars, too, from here on the Org.) Seems a good time to replace these control arm bushings, would you agree?
08-09-2010, 06:27 AM
#29
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Subframe collars? I am not sure what your are reffering to. Could you explain?
I can't tell if the ES control arms bushings are a good thing yet, but I can definately confirm that while your control arm is off to replace the lower ball joint, it is a perfect timing.
I can't tell if the ES control arms bushings are a good thing yet, but I can definately confirm that while your control arm is off to replace the lower ball joint, it is a perfect timing.
08-09-2010, 06:36 AM
#30
Basically, increase the surface area in point-of-contact for the subframe, while at the same time introducing a shock absorbent material. The net result (purportedly) is a stiffer feel to the front end, while softening the shock of small bumps. I think that sums it up. People seem to love them.
All I know is when I discussed the idea with my mechanic, he was all for it, and since I had some work coming up (ball joints), I figured it was good timing. Same with these control arm bushings.
08-09-2010, 09:10 AM
#31
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Thank you Rochester, you just created other needs... my GF is going to be pretty happy 
After reading all of those positive review about the Subframe Collars, I will definately see with carnal_c30 if I can still get some.
After reading all of those positive review about the Subframe Collars, I will definately see with carnal_c30 if I can still get some.
08-09-2010, 10:12 AM
#32
08-09-2010, 10:19 AM
#33
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Look at the other car in my signature.... If i start to go the same route as I went with the other one... She going to go nuts!
And we are waiting for baby to show up any day. Was due yesterday
And we are waiting for baby to show up any day. Was due yesterday
Last edited by ColtMax; 08-09-2010 at 10:30 AM.
08-09-2010, 10:33 AM
#34
And the funny thing is, you're actually going to like having a Minivan.
08-09-2010, 10:56 AM
#36
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A good old mitsu expo with a 4g63 head on the 64's bottom end. grab all the good stuff from the mirage and there you go! a 450hp minivan!
We want a smoke show! daddy! daddy! daddy
We want a smoke show! daddy! daddy! daddy
08-09-2010, 06:50 PM
#37
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Hey all , ,checkin out the site . Ive had my 00 for about 4 years now and still runnin strong at 186,000 and lovin it . started to get a thunk in forward n reverse , just as i let my foot oof the pedal . got underneth ( while it was off) AND MOVED IT WHILE IN PARK . Seemed to be the lower ball joints . Scare the %*^! out of me at first , looked on ebay and found some really cheap . Just wonderin .... should'nt they have zerk fittings in them ? Its my first post so hope some one might be able to give a lil advise .lol Im a noobie , but ive been checkin out the site for a couple years now and it will take a while to get the 15 posts. Im i9n no big rush .lol.
Thanks for any in put
Thanks for any in put
08-09-2010, 07:25 PM
#38
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Ok, so here are the requested pics for the motor mount.
I had to cheat and use the press to get the rubber out, but it can be done by hand, just takes longer.
I had to cheat and use the press to get the rubber out, but it can be done by hand, just takes longer.
Last edited by ColtMax; 08-09-2010 at 07:36 PM.
08-10-2010, 06:06 AM
#40
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Actually the more I think about it, the more I suggest you leave the rubber in. Just use the hole alrady in the mount to get the saw through and make 2 incisions. Using the hammer and the pry bar, you should be able to get it out easily.
Once it is cut, it is simple to get it out without the press.
Once it is cut, it is simple to get it out without the press.
Last edited by ColtMax; 08-10-2010 at 06:36 AM.