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Prepping car for snow?

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Old 07-26-2010, 06:30 PM
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I buy aerosol cans of "Rust Check" and spray the crap out of problem rust areas in the fall. I respray during the rest of the year, (less agressivly), in the most rust prone areas.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Max_5gen
You won't, trust me. I experienced so called 'black ice' first hand and only luck saved me and bunch of other cars on hwy. It was dark and people were coming home from work. I kept at least 100m distance from the car in front of me when out of sudden I saw flushes of police lights ahead. Naturally I pressed the brakes (slowly, as everyone suggested here) and - nothing, car continued to move ahead like I wasn't braking at all. ABS did kick in and it was quite depressing to keep pushing brake pedal, getting massage from ABS and not slowing down noticeably. I found it was better to just keep pushing it as ABS was doing better job of keeping it on the edge of breaking traction. Luckily cars in front of me were having the same problems. It took us at least 200m to come to complete stop from 80 km/h. It was police cruiser which was driving in front of us who turned on his lights to warn everyone behind. It turned out there was a car wreck on the hwy about 1km ahead and there were no lights, only one more cruiser standing on hwy behind the wreck. If not that police officer who warned us there would be sure pile up that night as it would be too late for the front driver to notice the wreck. We spent another hour trying to pass that spot as there were no traction whatsoever. This is the biggest danger of the winter driving - sudden change of conditions. It was the same road, time and weather. It was OK 10 km before and no traction at that place, about 2km in length which is quite enough to get into trouble.
I do keep my winter set for only one reason - my summer tires suck big time in winter . I don't drive in deep snow so all seasons on my other Max work for me just as well.
You are right, with black ice, you could have studs and probably still lose grip. Nothing can be done about that. But baring such extreme conditions which we both agree can't be foreseen, you should generally know how much grip you have when driving.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:01 PM
  #43  
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Interesting thread! Oddly enough, I've actually been curious about snow/rust recently.

I've lived in Texas my whole life, but I've spent probably a solid month and half (total, over several trips) in WI and MN this summer visiting friends. And I was amazed at the amount of cars driving around that were complete rust-buckets.

I had a 3rd gen Maxima for years up until just a few months ago that was originally from Pennsylvania. It wasn't "rusted out" by any northern standards, but I did a ton of rust-repair on it including welding in new sheet metal and the like. Even after repairing all this, it always bothered me in the back of my mind that the car had any rust. Just random little nuts/bolts in the engine bay, the whole oil pan, etc. was all just coated in rust. Half the time working in the engine bay nuts would just snap rather than come out, etc. Plus, just imagining all the unseen rust creeping/growing - it psychologically affected me

During my trips to WI/MN, as a truly car-obsessed guy, I asked friends how they can stand to buy a new car up there just to have it rust away. I mean, I saw a lot of cars that were only 6-7 years old with a noticeable amount of rust on them. Of all the "natives" I inquired with about this rust subject, they all seemed perplexed that I'd even be curious about rust, as if it was just a given way of life.

So, some dumb/Texan questions about rust (just out of my own curiosity/intrigue - nobody I spoke with up there really knew the answer):

If you don't drive your car at ALL in the snow/salt, but do drive it during the winter months, does rust still creep up on your cars?

I guess, what I'm mostly wondering - is rust purely a by-product of the salt used on the roads during winter months? OR is it "in the air" (from the Great Lakes)? Or both?
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:38 PM
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If you don't regularly wash car the salt will kill the car. But having a car for ten yrs. and using in the winter it will still add up. My lower radiator core support is needing some work and my rear fenders are rusted up but looking to do some work here b4 winter hits. Funny how the bodyshop wants $7,000 to fix it all cause the inner fender in the rear is rusting.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:10 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by James92SE
I guess, what I'm mostly wondering - is rust purely a by-product of the salt used on the roads during winter months? OR is it "in the air" (from the Great Lakes)? Or both?
Salt just accelerates the process, by my estimate about 2 times. What I found out by hunting the rust through my 93 Max is that moisture in the air is probably the main reason. For example, many internal parts were rusted due to condensation, there's no way they could do it from the salt on the road. One such example - upper holders of the rear seat belts in the trunk were rusted, the driver side- completely, I had to weld in new piece of metal there. The rust was eating from inside the trunk and I often found on foggy summer mornings drops of water in those areas. Another thing which stunned me is the routing of the drainage hoses - they discharge inside the internal cavities of the fenders, no wonder they rust so quickly. In general, rust needs 2 more ingredients besides iron: water and oxygen. Remove either and you won't have rust. I found painting inside of the fenders with POR15 helps a lot plus that "Krown" spray to finish the beast .
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:21 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ajm8127
You are right, with black ice, you could have studs and probably still lose grip. Nothing can be done about that. But baring such extreme conditions which we both agree can't be foreseen, you should generally know how much grip you have when driving.
Studs are illegal in Ontario so we have to take it as real men . This is also not so rare occasion around here - on the same hwy a year before I counted once 6 cars in the ditch, 2 of them laying on the roof on 20 km stretch. My best strategy these days - take a day off when temperature falls that much and the roads were wet before, it's cheaper this way. Oddly enough this combination happens only once per winter so no big deal.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:05 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by SteveB123
Have you tried them?
I feel like you think im saying snow tires are worthless and that would be a stupid thing for me to say. snow tires DO help in the snow im just giving him my two cents and trying to make things easier for him. but yes snow tires do help i have been fine with out them tho.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:38 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by hot_wax_tree
I feel like you think im saying snow tires are worthless and that would be a stupid thing for me to say. snow tires DO help in the snow im just giving him my two cents and trying to make things easier for him. but yes snow tires do help i have been fine with out them tho.
Have you tried them?
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveB123
Have you tried them?
You're missing his point - even if he never tried them he is still fine without and I fully agree, being proud owner of both. You also made yourself clear - driving in 6" snow uphill with all seasons is impossible. I also agree, it's just where I live I don't have a need to plow through such deep snow, they clear roads pretty quick around here. They're also called 'snow' tires not 'ice' tires and they do suck on ice almost as bad as all seasons. I've never tried Blizzaks but I did try Hakkapellitas, Gislaved and Toyo, all of them suck on ice, sorry.
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