What do you do to make your engine look pretty? :)
#601
for those who want to paint plastic parts I recommend using the krylon plastic paints. But be warned, even thought they take one hour to dry, it says on the package the paint takes one week to cure. I'll post a pic later of my battery's positive post cover.
Hey John, can you post part numbers for the murano caps?
Hey John, can you post part numbers for the murano caps?
#602
for those who want to paint plastic parts I recommend using the krylon plastic paints. But be warned, even thought they take one hour to dry, it says on the package the paint takes one week to cure. I'll post a pic later of my battery's positive post cover.
Hey John, can you post part numbers for the murano caps?
Hey John, can you post part numbers for the murano caps?
Not sure why you want the cap info, since you're getting that ZeeToy stuff. But here are some links from CourtesyParts. Keep in mind, these are CourtesyParts inventory items, and Dave B. will be different. But he's super patient, and will walk you through the right purchase.
Also, notice the washer fluid cap looks black (it isn't, it's actually gray.)
Lastly, notice the washer fluid cap comes with a hose, with a little pin-***** hole in the cap. IDK why. I just removed the hose.
#603
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$2.37 for the larger washer fluid cap and the hose vs. $6.48 for just the smaller coolant cap I'll never understand dealer pricing.....
Just FYI, my stock washer fluid cap has that hose as well. Not sure whats its for......but the pin-***** hole is to let air in so that it flows better when the fluid is getting pumped out.
And I wont make a comment about the "pin-*****" term you used and how it relates to your small package
And props for all the leg work on this stuff John.....more well thought out contributions to the .org! Thank you!
Just FYI, my stock washer fluid cap has that hose as well. Not sure whats its for......but the pin-***** hole is to let air in so that it flows better when the fluid is getting pumped out.
And I wont make a comment about the "pin-*****" term you used and how it relates to your small package
And props for all the leg work on this stuff John.....more well thought out contributions to the .org! Thank you!
#604
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If it was less than a 7 hour drive, actually had a code scanner, and was confident that I would know what to do after I got the codes, i would definitely give you a hand with that
But I can tell you its probably not the washer cap
But I can tell you its probably not the washer cap
#607
I tried painting my yellow washer fluid cap a few weeks ago, with black plastic paint, and it did not come out well at all. To be honest, it looks like crap. I don't know how all these people who lay claim to painting their caps are actually pleased with the outcome.
So I bought a washer reservoir cap from a 2007 Nissan Murano in gray, and one from a 2004 Nissan Maxima, in blue.
Both are a perfect fit. I think I like the gray one.
So I bought a washer reservoir cap from a 2007 Nissan Murano in gray, and one from a 2004 Nissan Maxima, in blue.
Both are a perfect fit. I think I like the gray one.
#608
#609
#610
#612
#615
Hey John, do you have the full part numbers for those Murano Caps? My guy can't use the courtesy numbers. I asked him to check for the caps on the 08 Murano and we don't have the 08 up here.
#617
But you know, I just now realized you had this picture of your positive terminal cap painted blue, and it looks really, really good. So why not just paint yours with that same blue?
#620
Both the coolant cap and the brake caps is the same 2003 through 2010. It doesn't matter. Same design and size as ours, but black.
The washer fluid cap is from the 2003 - 2007, but it was actually gray, not black. The 2009 - 2010 model Murano uses an oblong cap... different design.
The 6th gen Maxima and the 350Z use the same washer cap as ours, but in blue and with a different hanger, which you can just cut off.
I think you should paint your originals blue, like your positive terminal cover. You've obviously got a knack for it, and they will match then.
The washer fluid cap is from the 2003 - 2007, but it was actually gray, not black. The 2009 - 2010 model Murano uses an oblong cap... different design.
The 6th gen Maxima and the 350Z use the same washer cap as ours, but in blue and with a different hanger, which you can just cut off.
I think you should paint your originals blue, like your positive terminal cover. You've obviously got a knack for it, and they will match then.
#621
actually, I suck at spray painting, but the Krylon plastic paint is very easy to spray. I'm not sure why but the nozzle must be special because it comes out in a nice mist and doesn't seem to spray out in clumps and big drops.
I might have to go a darker blue though because the battery terminal cap is much lighter than the hoses I got.
I might have to go a darker blue though because the battery terminal cap is much lighter than the hoses I got.
#622
It's cold, and I'm pretty burned out on this engine bay project. So I'm done for 2010.
I might do some more in the Spring, if I'm still inspired to follow up on some things I didn't get to, or if some new stuff shows up here that grabs my eye. But in the mean time... it's cold outside, even in the garage.
Here's a current photo, with the new reservoir caps.
I might do some more in the Spring, if I'm still inspired to follow up on some things I didn't get to, or if some new stuff shows up here that grabs my eye. But in the mean time... it's cold outside, even in the garage.
Here's a current photo, with the new reservoir caps.
#623
Man that sure is clean in there, and your engine is nicely appointed with all the modest changes you have done John you should be proud of the way things have turned out ... definitely worth popping the hood when its show and tell time. Your very correct about it being cold outside, I have been in the garage all day fixing the rockers on my daughter van that were a complete mess, just finished sanding and getting the primer on and will finish up shortly with the painting. It does help having the heaters on full tilt out in the garage as it is a nice 74 degrees in there at the moment.
I look forward to seeing what you have in store for next spring.
I look forward to seeing what you have in store for next spring.
Last edited by Ghost_54; 10-31-2010 at 12:01 PM.
#625
#627
#629
It's cold, and I'm pretty burned out on this engine bay project. So I'm done for 2010.
I might do some more in the Spring, if I'm still inspired to follow up on some things I didn't get to, or if some new stuff shows up here that grabs my eye. But in the mean time... it's cold outside, even in the garage.
Here's a current photo, with the new reservoir caps.
I might do some more in the Spring, if I'm still inspired to follow up on some things I didn't get to, or if some new stuff shows up here that grabs my eye. But in the mean time... it's cold outside, even in the garage.
Here's a current photo, with the new reservoir caps.
I took this one today during the Findlay Honda Halloween Car Show.
#630
I see you've capped or replaced the t-bolt clamps on your upper radiator hose. And look at that... you followed through on that idea to paint your relay & fuse boxes piano black to match the engine cover. Very nice.
This is the best photo I've seen of your engine bay yet. Well done.
#631
If I had the time I'd like to see what it would look like to go red, white and blue on the three sections of the engine cover.
Oh well, it's a Japanese car regardless I guess...
Last edited by trooplewis; 11-03-2010 at 09:27 AM.
#634
I see what you've done there. I want a shiny IVT sensor too.
You know, I'm on the fence about the red section in your engine cover... but I certainly respect the creative effort. And your bay is looking really clean. I like that you ditched the factory warning stickers off the front cross-member.
But why are you pulling hot air into a closed airbox?
Um, too much yellow, trooplewis. You need a yellow-delete mod in your engine bay.
You know, I'm on the fence about the red section in your engine cover... but I certainly respect the creative effort. And your bay is looking really clean. I like that you ditched the factory warning stickers off the front cross-member.
But why are you pulling hot air into a closed airbox?
Um, too much yellow, trooplewis. You need a yellow-delete mod in your engine bay.
#635
I see what you've done there. I want a shiny IVT sensor too.
You know, I'm on the fence about the red section in your engine cover... but I certainly respect the creative effort. And your bay is looking really clean. I like that you ditched the factory warning stickers off the front cross-member.
But why are you pulling hot air into a closed airbox?
Um, too much yellow, trooplewis. You need a yellow-delete mod in your engine bay.
You know, I'm on the fence about the red section in your engine cover... but I certainly respect the creative effort. And your bay is looking really clean. I like that you ditched the factory warning stickers off the front cross-member.
But why are you pulling hot air into a closed airbox?
Um, too much yellow, trooplewis. You need a yellow-delete mod in your engine bay.
I hate all the plastic stuff that comes attached to the stock airbox, wanted to free up some space in there. I doubt I would ever notice the difference in power in terms of air intake temp. Certainly no different than the guys running an aftermarket WAI.
I would get rid of the rest of the plastic plumbing but I don't want a noisy intake or to lose any low-end power, so not sure which direction to go.
It would be fun to have the entire engine out and get to do some serious aluminum polishing on it. The timing chain cover would probably look gorgeous if you spent about 4 hours on it.
I did spend the $18 and bought a new hamburger for the engine cover. The old one was wrinkled badly.
#636
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Yes, I'm on the fence about the red as well, just wanted to see what it would look like and do something a little bit different that made you know it was not stock. Doing it red/white/blue with a couple of white stars thrown in would probably be too over-the-top.
I hate all the plastic stuff that comes attached to the stock airbox, wanted to free up some space in there. I doubt I would ever notice the difference in power in terms of air intake temp. Certainly no different than the guys running an aftermarket WAI.
I would get rid of the rest of the plastic plumbing but I don't want a noisy intake or to lose any low-end power, so not sure which direction to go.
It would be fun to have the entire engine out and get to do some serious aluminum polishing on it. The timing chain cover would probably look gorgeous if you spent about 4 hours on it.
I did spend the $18 and bought a new hamburger for the engine cover. The old one was wrinkled badly.
I hate all the plastic stuff that comes attached to the stock airbox, wanted to free up some space in there. I doubt I would ever notice the difference in power in terms of air intake temp. Certainly no different than the guys running an aftermarket WAI.
I would get rid of the rest of the plastic plumbing but I don't want a noisy intake or to lose any low-end power, so not sure which direction to go.
It would be fun to have the entire engine out and get to do some serious aluminum polishing on it. The timing chain cover would probably look gorgeous if you spent about 4 hours on it.
I did spend the $18 and bought a new hamburger for the engine cover. The old one was wrinkled badly.
#637
If you don't want to build/buy a SRI kit, then GAB it, or put the snorkel back on for a colder air source.
I know you didn't ask for advice, but that's the risk you run when revealing an engine bay.
#638
LOL, advice is good, bring it on!
On race day, I just hang a mesh bag full of ice cubes down in front of that intake and get my own custom cool-air intake system...j/k
I'll probably drill a couple of holes in the filter cover for a bit better breathing, but I don't push the car hard. It's a rare day when my tach needle gets familiar with the area past 4000 rpms.
But if I had an extra $128 sitting in my bank account, I'd buy one of these
On race day, I just hang a mesh bag full of ice cubes down in front of that intake and get my own custom cool-air intake system...j/k
I'll probably drill a couple of holes in the filter cover for a bit better breathing, but I don't push the car hard. It's a rare day when my tach needle gets familiar with the area past 4000 rpms.
But if I had an extra $128 sitting in my bank account, I'd buy one of these
Last edited by trooplewis; 11-03-2010 at 02:51 PM.
#639
I was looking at the engine bay just now, with plans in my head to remove the NWP Torque Link Connector for winter... when I got this idea. Why not have the center hexagonal bar powder-coated to match the Black Chrome FSTB brackets?
Roy, you've got this engine brace, too. What do you think?
Roy, you've got this engine brace, too. What do you think?
#640
trooplewis, I really like the two tone on the cover. I was just thinking about this the other day as I've never seen it done, but it kinda made me think once I saw the new GT-R engine cover...