big maf tuning
agreed
im gonna search now on the install and such but since ill have this first then the dyno will be aways away, is there someone that has what the settings should be for vq35 that has just these mods (so its a "safe" tune before it gets tuned on the dyno):
test pipe
bbmaf
sri
vias delete

im gonna search now on the install and such but since ill have this first then the dyno will be aways away, is there someone that has what the settings should be for vq35 that has just these mods (so its a "safe" tune before it gets tuned on the dyno):
test pipe
bbmaf
sri
vias delete
if my afc doesnt allow me to edit v/t unmt what should i do? i did not install the knock sensor wire because some one in the 4th gen had issues cuz of that. is that the reason why?
and do i have to edit it to 10%.
thanks tedo im kinda pissed i wasnt the first to figure it out. but atleast some one had an answer to it. props
and do i have to edit it to 10%.
thanks tedo im kinda pissed i wasnt the first to figure it out. but atleast some one had an answer to it. props
^^^ well much props goes to you also, you started the thread and actually stick with it unlike most of us who quit after a few frustrations.... u made me wanna go an install mines... hopefully tedo's setup work for you too
we will find out today.....i got the coupler I have been needing so I will be street tuning today and fine tuning at the track. so we will see what improves if any
^^^ ill check that but i was wondering on how the II has i think the 24 positions and the I just has 12. would that make a huge difference.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6135.pdf
on the manual on pg. 31 it has the inf q45 from yrs. 89-97 in which that states a hot wire as well. so it states it would be 1 in but where do you find what out would be? So in essence it seems this may work for adding the BBmaf. This is encouraging.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6135.pdf
on the manual on pg. 31 it has the inf q45 from yrs. 89-97 in which that states a hot wire as well. so it states it would be 1 in but where do you find what out would be? So in essence it seems this may work for adding the BBmaf. This is encouraging.
)So, in essence, all I really need to do is apply a -x% where x is the same value throughout and I will again have a flat AFR @ the new ratio. TS is 13.0 from them.
Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17
Thanks to tedo this should officially be a sticky
I'll consult with nismology and perhaps also add Moncef's tuning thread.
To anybody is thinking about doing BBMAF. Try to get the VAFCII or SAFCII. 24 point helps a lot. I prefer SAFCII. Reason for is that SAFCII OUT SENSOR can go up to 17 and VAFCII only goes up to 14. SENSOR 17 is for VQ35. SENSOR 4 is for VQ30. This is the only reason why I use SENSOR 4 and second reason is that I got the VAFCII for 60 bucks from ebay lol.
And using someone else's settings is like trying to treat a sickness with somewhat similar symptoms the same way just because you heard that your friend treated it that way. Environmental circumstances such as temperature and elevation play a role in tuning and the design difference of different parts and even variation in how each engine runs. From the posts I read from you, you invested quite some money already into the car and plan on doing more in the future. Wait a month, spend another $180 on a wideband and then have a sick car instead of trying this and that, running the risk of screwing something up and then getting discouraged from modifying your car or having to waste more money on repairs.
Anticipated pleasure outweighs contemporaneous disappointment =)
EDIT:
I was careless when I read your post previously and didn't see that you are planning on getting the Wo2 soon. So until then stop messing with your stuff man and get excited for when you get it!!!!
)
Last edited by McSteve; Aug 13, 2010 at 02:57 PM.
http://www.aemelectronics.com/no-wel...-2-5-inch-1174
Looks pretty good if exhaust shops in your area charge an arm and a leg for simple stuff.
Not to be rude and I understand your excitement in trying to install it already, but I think trying to tune the A/F ratio of a car without having a way to know what the A/F ratio is, is really pointless.
And using someone else's settings is like trying to treat a sickness with somewhat similar symptoms the same way just because you heard that your friend treated it that way. Environmental circumstances such as temperature and elevation play a role in tuning and the design difference of different parts and even variation in how each engine runs. From the posts I read from you, you invested quite some money already into the car and plan on doing more in the future. Wait a month, spend another $180 on a wideband and then have a sick car instead of trying this and that, running the risk of screwing something up and then getting discouraged from modifying your car or having to waste more money on repairs.
Anticipated pleasure outweighs contemporaneous disappointment =)
EDIT:
I was careless when I read your post previously and didn't see that you are planning on getting the Wo2 soon. So until then stop messing with your stuff man and get excited for when you get it!!!!
)
And using someone else's settings is like trying to treat a sickness with somewhat similar symptoms the same way just because you heard that your friend treated it that way. Environmental circumstances such as temperature and elevation play a role in tuning and the design difference of different parts and even variation in how each engine runs. From the posts I read from you, you invested quite some money already into the car and plan on doing more in the future. Wait a month, spend another $180 on a wideband and then have a sick car instead of trying this and that, running the risk of screwing something up and then getting discouraged from modifying your car or having to waste more money on repairs.
Anticipated pleasure outweighs contemporaneous disappointment =)
EDIT:
I was careless when I read your post previously and didn't see that you are planning on getting the Wo2 soon. So until then stop messing with your stuff man and get excited for when you get it!!!!
)
I'm at the track now.....my times have actually dropped... .2 on et and 2 to 3 miles per hour at the trap. I got it tuned almost perfectly -6 on wide throttle running about 13.2 avg afr
my .02 cents
I was going to buy the AEM UEGO wideband, I would have gotten a killer deal on it. But it has no software and nothing to tell you anything about RPM. So it will be difficult to tune with it unless you have something to tell you what your AFR is at X RPM. Otherwise you have no idea how much fuel to add/subtract at those RPM's
I'm with Nmexmax on this one, the zeitronix wideband is the best bang for the buck. Easy to install, comes with cd and software. It has data logging built in so you know exactly what the AFR is at all RPM's. It makes a really cool graph and plots RPM vs AFR so it's simple to interpret the data.
I've been itching to install my BBMAF but I need to learn the EB software end and I'm not comfortable with playing with the numbers yet. I would love it if SR20DEN could chime in and tell me what setting on the EB is the Q45 MAF setting and I wouldn't have to retune the car. It would need a fine tune, because my BBMAF is only 80mm with the Q45 being 82mm.
I was going to buy the AEM UEGO wideband, I would have gotten a killer deal on it. But it has no software and nothing to tell you anything about RPM. So it will be difficult to tune with it unless you have something to tell you what your AFR is at X RPM. Otherwise you have no idea how much fuel to add/subtract at those RPM's
I'm with Nmexmax on this one, the zeitronix wideband is the best bang for the buck. Easy to install, comes with cd and software. It has data logging built in so you know exactly what the AFR is at all RPM's. It makes a really cool graph and plots RPM vs AFR so it's simple to interpret the data.
I've been itching to install my BBMAF but I need to learn the EB software end and I'm not comfortable with playing with the numbers yet. I would love it if SR20DEN could chime in and tell me what setting on the EB is the Q45 MAF setting and I wouldn't have to retune the car. It would need a fine tune, because my BBMAF is only 80mm with the Q45 being 82mm.
well what i was trying to do was install it and use the dyno shop's wideband to get my AFR straight but i couldnt even get it running o.k to get to the shop, the shop wouldve charged me to put the intake on up there so i was tryna get it one to just go about 10-15mi down the street
Profit?
And this is on a DEK FTW...
Last edited by NmexMAX; Aug 13, 2010 at 07:30 PM.
Install it at the dyno, get results, go back to OEM and dyno again, see results, have more motivation for getting a WB, leave shop with OEM set-up with hopes for a WB..
Profit?
Sticky time ... may need to clean this thread up a bit ... but yeah, it's headed there (stickys that is).
And this is on a DEK FTW...
Profit?
Sticky time ... may need to clean this thread up a bit ... but yeah, it's headed there (stickys that is).
And this is on a DEK FTW...
my verdict
ok i have been analyzing my results and its actually progress... so here goes track info:
3 runs of a 10.3 on the 1/8 (homestead speedway)
1/4 mile results the weekend of the 26th (bradenton)
60' - 2.53, 2.55
trap speed: 70.7, 70.5, 70.8
stock maf housing:
ET is in the same area around 10.3-10.5
my 60ft time were 2.6 and 2.7 seconds
trapping at 72- 73 mph
THe verdict: more power down low. its a consistent amount of power through the power band. Although my trap speed was slower i still hit the same time so it shows that im gaining more torque of the line but sacrificing a little up top. I will be moving to a bigger filter next time i drag and see if it helps get more air in the higher rpms.
With the stock housing it would feel slow at first and once 4500 rpm hit it would rip through similar to a vtec feel. So i think the 3.5 engines would benefit more from the bbmaf than my 3.0. simply because the vias.
I had no need to turn on the vtec cont. setting it automatically switches over for me i can give my final tune info another time i need to go to sleep.
hopefully this is enough info. dont expect me to dyno ill leave it up to some one else.
3 runs of a 10.3 on the 1/8 (homestead speedway)
1/4 mile results the weekend of the 26th (bradenton)
60' - 2.53, 2.55
trap speed: 70.7, 70.5, 70.8
stock maf housing:
ET is in the same area around 10.3-10.5
my 60ft time were 2.6 and 2.7 seconds
trapping at 72- 73 mph
THe verdict: more power down low. its a consistent amount of power through the power band. Although my trap speed was slower i still hit the same time so it shows that im gaining more torque of the line but sacrificing a little up top. I will be moving to a bigger filter next time i drag and see if it helps get more air in the higher rpms.
With the stock housing it would feel slow at first and once 4500 rpm hit it would rip through similar to a vtec feel. So i think the 3.5 engines would benefit more from the bbmaf than my 3.0. simply because the vias.
I had no need to turn on the vtec cont. setting it automatically switches over for me i can give my final tune info another time i need to go to sleep.
hopefully this is enough info. dont expect me to dyno ill leave it up to some one else.
Last edited by rayac88; Aug 13, 2010 at 10:00 PM.
ok so i found the reason why its not ripping through 4k to the limiter. its cuz i was running a 3"intake opening to a 3.5. i changed the filter and put back on an old spectre filter and took all the extension/ minimizer coupler and left it at the 3.5". once i started driving the car was running lean so i new there was more air coming in now. also since i removed the couplers the air from the filter is going directly to themaf housing now. so now there should be no bottleneck effect up top. so when i run the 1/4 mile i should gains in both my 1/8 mile times and my 1/4 mile.
just to give you guys an idea of how much just changing the coupler size did... i had it tuned to lean 5 points gas at WOT not i am adding gas @ about 9 points.
just to give you guys an idea of how much just changing the coupler size did... i had it tuned to lean 5 points gas at WOT not i am adding gas @ about 9 points.
its only cuz im still configuring things. im determined to run a 10.0 in the 1/8th while staying n/a.
i will be probably changing the filter again and going with one of the jim wolf ones since it has been shown to be pretty good. this spectre doesnt seem like it flows to well for me. the AEM dryflow i had on i like alot more i may try and find one of those with a bigger inlet
i will be probably changing the filter again and going with one of the jim wolf ones since it has been shown to be pretty good. this spectre doesnt seem like it flows to well for me. the AEM dryflow i had on i like alot more i may try and find one of those with a bigger inlet
Hey hustle I used 3.5" monte carlo SS intake and filter I bought from EBAY. I use that to flow air more better. It was like $30 or $35 shipped and it came with breather filter.
ok so i found the reason why its not ripping through 4k to the limiter. its cuz i was running a 3"intake opening to a 3.5. i changed the filter and put back on an old spectre filter and took all the extension/ minimizer coupler and left it at the 3.5". once i started driving the car was running lean so i new there was more air coming in now. also since i removed the couplers the air from the filter is going directly to themaf housing now. so now there should be no bottleneck effect up top. so when i run the 1/4 mile i should gains in both my 1/8 mile times and my 1/4 mile.
just to give you guys an idea of how much just changing the coupler size did... i had it tuned to lean 5 points gas at WOT not i am adding gas @ about 9 points.
just to give you guys an idea of how much just changing the coupler size did... i had it tuned to lean 5 points gas at WOT not i am adding gas @ about 9 points.
BBMAF + same diameter piping + matching TB (think VQ35 TB) = win for us DEK guys?
I went from a whole helluva lot of different piping sizes (from 2.75" to 3.25" back to 2.75" then to TB, then another application was (3" to 3.25" to 2.75" then to TB) and never noticed any driveability problems.
I've also noticed the obvious (needed to remove fuel when going to stock airbox, and add when going aftermarket intake, all with a large MAF housing).
But IMO the theory was important and valid enough for me to try and stick with a similar ID size for the entire intake, so that's why I removed the LRMAF and currently and rocking a 3" ID MAF piece. (TB/Helmholtz/MAF/JWT POP) all are about 3"ID. Now all I need to do is dyno or compare MAF logs.
Although, right now there is a small length of pipe (2" or so) that goes from (3" to 3.25" back down to 3") so I plan on fixing that with a sleeve of some sort.
I've also noticed the obvious (needed to remove fuel when going to stock airbox, and add when going aftermarket intake, all with a large MAF housing).
But IMO the theory was important and valid enough for me to try and stick with a similar ID size for the entire intake, so that's why I removed the LRMAF and currently and rocking a 3" ID MAF piece. (TB/Helmholtz/MAF/JWT POP) all are about 3"ID. Now all I need to do is dyno or compare MAF logs.
Although, right now there is a small length of pipe (2" or so) that goes from (3" to 3.25" back down to 3") so I plan on fixing that with a sleeve of some sort.
But as I've always said, etc, even JUST the added benefit of throttle response on an A33B is enough to justify a 'non' constant intake ID.
Since this is the device this thread is about figured someone may be able to jump on this if they are close. More towards Grand Hustle but whoever is near here. i was looking for the safc 2 and found one for 100. Except its in the Huson valley area. To far for me. here is the link
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/pts/1898841199.html
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/pts/1898841199.html
Hmm interesting... ill definately look itnto that... I have the neccesary parts just not the most important part.... the wideband o2




