Dealer failed to solve this , Please help me
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,382
From: Maryland
Dealer failed to solve this , Please help me
Please I need your opinion and help with this issue....
My car , 02 6mt, needed an oil pan and some maintenance done on it ... So I took my car to my mechanic (whom which I am always next to him the whole time he's working on my car)...So everything went relatively smooth that day ,
1.Oil pan replaced with OEM nissan pan with oil change (filter in Nissan , fairly new , so I didn't replace it)
2.Radiator fluid with Prestone 50/50 changed
3.Gear oil (Amsoil 75w90 GL4) , took 2.5 quarts exactly..
4.Changed both neutral position and reverse light switches....
The mechanic had to remove the stock air box (and ofcourse disconnect MAF) to reach both the neutral and reverse switches....the reverse was easy but he had a hard time replacing the neutral switch...However,I tried to clean little amount of gunk from the outer side of the TB (which was exposed after the airbox disconnected),the mechanic rushed and said he will clean it for me(and I was stuped and agreed
) he moved the plate open several times and cleaned with TB cleaner and a rag for 3-4 min... I felt wrong about that in the moment .... He return everything back on the car again and I doubled checked after him that everything is in place..
OK...So I took the car and was heading home,I noticed that that when push the clutch all the way (like when shifting to neutral to stop for a light) the RPM would shoot to 1500-1600 then slowly goes to around 1000 or 900 (over 3 to 4 seconds).... Another thing is that when I'm on gear like in 2nd , 3rd or 4th and let the gas completely and press it gently again the car makes a little jump (re-pressing the gas isn't very smooth like it was before that job) ... Cold start idle is around 1600 and settles slowly to 1000 after fully warms up .... NO CEL
I was afraid that the mechanic messed up the TB when he cleaned it , I felt very sad to let him do that
....So I return to the .org and tried to reset the ECU , the throttle reset and relearn procedure...After several trials and it didn't do anything (same idle and surge when re-pressing the gas)...So I felt misrable and took the car to Nissan delaership and asked then to hook up the CONSULT and do idle relearn ..... They went ahead and did it , and .... the chief of the service department told me an hour later that they did that but they failed to reset the idle to factory setting .... He adviced me to leave the car for the rest of the day with them and they will do more thorough research on this issue....He called me the next day saying that he is sure that the throttle body is the cause and needs to be replaced....I told him I would not pay for it if the problem isn't corrected and he agreed on that.....
So today , the dealer replaced the TB , did the relearn procedures again and guess what !!!! they failed again to reset the idle ... I told them I would take the car for now and bring it back to them later....They didn't charge me for that and adviced for further work up on it.....
Although the car now is more responsive in acceleration , the idle issues and the surges and jumpy peddle is almost the same ....
Now please tell me what do you think about the cause of the problem .. SURE the TB is ruled out now ..... could be MAF ? the engine revs very strong to red line , and performance is almost the same like before ... gear problem ? is it by any mean related to the switches replaced at the back yard shop ?
thanks and sorry for the long post.......
My car , 02 6mt, needed an oil pan and some maintenance done on it ... So I took my car to my mechanic (whom which I am always next to him the whole time he's working on my car)...So everything went relatively smooth that day ,
1.Oil pan replaced with OEM nissan pan with oil change (filter in Nissan , fairly new , so I didn't replace it)
2.Radiator fluid with Prestone 50/50 changed
3.Gear oil (Amsoil 75w90 GL4) , took 2.5 quarts exactly..
4.Changed both neutral position and reverse light switches....
The mechanic had to remove the stock air box (and ofcourse disconnect MAF) to reach both the neutral and reverse switches....the reverse was easy but he had a hard time replacing the neutral switch...However,I tried to clean little amount of gunk from the outer side of the TB (which was exposed after the airbox disconnected),the mechanic rushed and said he will clean it for me(and I was stuped and agreed
) he moved the plate open several times and cleaned with TB cleaner and a rag for 3-4 min... I felt wrong about that in the moment .... He return everything back on the car again and I doubled checked after him that everything is in place..OK...So I took the car and was heading home,I noticed that that when push the clutch all the way (like when shifting to neutral to stop for a light) the RPM would shoot to 1500-1600 then slowly goes to around 1000 or 900 (over 3 to 4 seconds).... Another thing is that when I'm on gear like in 2nd , 3rd or 4th and let the gas completely and press it gently again the car makes a little jump (re-pressing the gas isn't very smooth like it was before that job) ... Cold start idle is around 1600 and settles slowly to 1000 after fully warms up .... NO CEL
I was afraid that the mechanic messed up the TB when he cleaned it , I felt very sad to let him do that
....So I return to the .org and tried to reset the ECU , the throttle reset and relearn procedure...After several trials and it didn't do anything (same idle and surge when re-pressing the gas)...So I felt misrable and took the car to Nissan delaership and asked then to hook up the CONSULT and do idle relearn ..... They went ahead and did it , and .... the chief of the service department told me an hour later that they did that but they failed to reset the idle to factory setting .... He adviced me to leave the car for the rest of the day with them and they will do more thorough research on this issue....He called me the next day saying that he is sure that the throttle body is the cause and needs to be replaced....I told him I would not pay for it if the problem isn't corrected and he agreed on that.....So today , the dealer replaced the TB , did the relearn procedures again and guess what !!!! they failed again to reset the idle ... I told them I would take the car for now and bring it back to them later....They didn't charge me for that and adviced for further work up on it.....
Although the car now is more responsive in acceleration , the idle issues and the surges and jumpy peddle is almost the same ....
Now please tell me what do you think about the cause of the problem .. SURE the TB is ruled out now ..... could be MAF ? the engine revs very strong to red line , and performance is almost the same like before ... gear problem ? is it by any mean related to the switches replaced at the back yard shop ?
thanks and sorry for the long post.......
Last edited by mahanddeem; Nov 19, 2010 at 11:31 PM.
I really don't have much to say based on the information given. This is a tough one. A few points I can respond to:
1. I would be curious to see your service order from the dealership. No charge for a throttle body? Even with the service manager's agreement... it's hard for me to believe they actually did this.
2. The neutral safety switch and back up lamp switch should have no direct relation to the idle and surging issues you have.
3. I'm am always a little leery of mechanics that just 'do' without prior knowledge. If he doesn't know the proper procedures for cleaning a DBW tbody, what else does he not know? Honestly, I would have had a serious issue with this especially when you started having problems unrelated to the original repairs. Who knows what else he did wrong?
It's puzzling that you don't have a CEL. Try to get that service order scanned so we can check out what Nissan documented on the repair attempt.
1. I would be curious to see your service order from the dealership. No charge for a throttle body? Even with the service manager's agreement... it's hard for me to believe they actually did this.
2. The neutral safety switch and back up lamp switch should have no direct relation to the idle and surging issues you have.
3. I'm am always a little leery of mechanics that just 'do' without prior knowledge. If he doesn't know the proper procedures for cleaning a DBW tbody, what else does he not know? Honestly, I would have had a serious issue with this especially when you started having problems unrelated to the original repairs. Who knows what else he did wrong?
It's puzzling that you don't have a CEL. Try to get that service order scanned so we can check out what Nissan documented on the repair attempt.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,382
From: Maryland
actually , I have not been charged for that as I brought the car back home , but the case is stil open , they adviced I bring it back to them soon , and I would be embaressed not to do so because frankly speeking their attetude was really onest , til the moment ofcourse...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,382
From: Maryland
I think if you search carefully you will find its the throttle body reset wouldnt take cuz the ECU didnt think the idle is abnormal.
I remember someone said about unplug one of the coils to create a low idle and CEL then reset the throttle body position and relearn the idle.
I remember someone said about unplug one of the coils to create a low idle and CEL then reset the throttle body position and relearn the idle.
actually , I have not been charged for that as I brought the car back home , but the case is stil open , they adviced I bring it back to them soon , and I would be embaressed not to do so because frankly speeking their attetude was really onest , til the moment ofcourse...
I think if you search carefully you will find its the throttle body reset wouldnt take cuz the ECU didnt think the idle is abnormal.
I remember someone said about unplug one of the coils to create a low idle and CEL then reset the throttle body position and relearn the idle.
I remember someone said about unplug one of the coils to create a low idle and CEL then reset the throttle body position and relearn the idle.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,382
From: Maryland
I tried to do the relearn procedure (all of it) and disconnected the battery for 12 hours , stil no luck ... Idle now is between 900-1000 fully warmed...this is not the bad part as I can (although not much) live with it...But the shooting of RPM to 1300-1400 each time I put gear to neutral or depress clutch , then idle backs up to 1000-900....Waiting for others to chime in...
Last edited by mahanddeem; Nov 22, 2010 at 02:16 PM.
When you did the relearn procedure, what "all of it" did you do?
I keep a copy of these in my car, 'just in case'.
How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima's
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning Procedure
1) Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2) Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4) Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure
1) Turn ignition switch ON.
2) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure the throttle valve moves during the above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure
1) Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
3) Confirm the accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
4) Repeat the following procedure quickly 5 times within 5 seconds.
1) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
2) Fully release the accelerator pedal.
5) Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL goes off.
6) Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
7) Start engine and let it idle.
8) Wait 20 seconds.
9) Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
I keep a copy of these in my car, 'just in case'.
How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima's
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning Procedure
1) Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2) Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4) Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure
1) Turn ignition switch ON.
2) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure the throttle valve moves during the above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure
1) Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
3) Confirm the accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
4) Repeat the following procedure quickly 5 times within 5 seconds.
1) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
2) Fully release the accelerator pedal.
5) Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL goes off.
6) Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
7) Start engine and let it idle.
8) Wait 20 seconds.
9) Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,382
From: Maryland
/\
eaxctly as you said....I also have a copy of those instructions in my glove box now....
As I was searching through the FSM , it sais check CMP and CPK ?
What is CMP ?
I assume CPK is crank position sensor ?
could the idiot mech. who worked on the car at first (who changed the neutral and back-up switches) messed some harness or connector during his work ? are they close to the area under the stock airbox ?
eaxctly as you said....I also have a copy of those instructions in my glove box now....
As I was searching through the FSM , it sais check CMP and CPK ?
What is CMP ?
I assume CPK is crank position sensor ?
could the idiot mech. who worked on the car at first (who changed the neutral and back-up switches) messed some harness or connector during his work ? are they close to the area under the stock airbox ?
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