Obx header install
12-08-2010, 02:59 PM
#1
Obx header install
I just received my obx v2(3?) headers. Gonna be install them this weekend. I think I know what I gotta do, I'm going off the write-ups done by other org members. If you got any tips for me b4 I start please let me kno I could use them. I was confused by some people's install times. I saw some got it done in 3-4 hours, others 8-12 hours. How long should this thing take? I rather not leave my car on jacks for more than a day.
12-08-2010, 03:04 PM
#2
Also after the install I guess I won't be needing my warpspeed y-pipe any more, anybody interested in it shoot me a pm. It's got <9000 miles. I'll consider any offer. Local pick up preferred but I'll ship at ur expense.
12-08-2010, 03:19 PM
#3
Soak everything in PB Blaster the night before. Trust me...just do it. It'll save you a lot of frustration.
By the way, I wouldn't believe 3-4 hours unless you've got a lift and air tools. It took me three days with jackstands and hand tools.
By the way, I wouldn't believe 3-4 hours unless you've got a lift and air tools. It took me three days with jackstands and hand tools.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; 12-08-2010 at 03:21 PM.
12-08-2010, 04:12 PM
#4
Thanks for the tip. I know what you mean, I live in south Florida and I still had problems with rust when I did my y-pipes. Had to cut the heat shield off and it was a pain in the *** to get the precat bolts off. Im doin the install at my friends he has airtools but I'm not sure if the compressor is working. I'm just hoping I can get it all done in one day.
12-08-2010, 07:06 PM
#10
12-09-2010, 07:36 PM
#13
12-10-2010, 05:42 AM
#15
These are the instructions I followed
Whats up bro... saw your max killin it on the OK meet page. Anyways... I wrote up (with help from others) an OBX install writeup a long time ago (as you'll see it on older pages of the ver2 OBX header thread)
I didn't wanna sh** on the other guy's parade but since youre looking to get these I figured I'd pass on my writeup to ya. It's a little more detailed:
1. Remove the radiator fans off the radiator
(These are secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car.)
2. Remove the lower splash shields.
3. Remove the motor mount bolts
(They go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket.)
4. Then remove the cross member.
5. After that remove your 02 sensors
(Use a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket.)
6. Then remove the whole y-pipe off the car.
7. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold
(You will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold.)
8. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat
9. Get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold
(You are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with ease.)
10. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat.
(It all depends on how you want to do the job.)
11. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block.
(The 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar to bend the support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts)
12. Remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts.
(There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block.)
13. Use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat.
(Reuse the factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers. They are metal and will not leak.)
14. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight.
(You can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs)
15. Then bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds.
(OBX are already connected)
16. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as hell and tighten the Ypipe.
(If you tighten the manifolds tight as hell 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to because the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when you install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off.)
18. Install your primary 02 sensors.
(Using 24 gauge wire… Cut, extend, and solder the single wire BEFORE the plastic connector, the one that leads to the ECM. Just ziptie the plastic connector and wire safely away from any heat sources.)
19. Install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors
(Don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lengthened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).
NOTE- SPRAY every factory bolt you will remove with *PB BLASTER* it works a lot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.
Whats up bro... saw your max killin it on the OK meet page. Anyways... I wrote up (with help from others) an OBX install writeup a long time ago (as you'll see it on older pages of the ver2 OBX header thread)
I didn't wanna sh** on the other guy's parade but since youre looking to get these I figured I'd pass on my writeup to ya. It's a little more detailed:
1. Remove the radiator fans off the radiator
(These are secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car.)
2. Remove the lower splash shields.
3. Remove the motor mount bolts
(They go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket.)
4. Then remove the cross member.
5. After that remove your 02 sensors
(Use a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket.)
6. Then remove the whole y-pipe off the car.
7. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold
(You will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold.)
8. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat
9. Get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold
(You are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with ease.)
10. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat.
(It all depends on how you want to do the job.)
11. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block.
(The 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar to bend the support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts)
12. Remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts.
(There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block.)
13. Use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat.
(Reuse the factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers. They are metal and will not leak.)
14. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight.
(You can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs)
15. Then bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds.
(OBX are already connected)
16. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as hell and tighten the Ypipe.
(If you tighten the manifolds tight as hell 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to because the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when you install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off.)
18. Install your primary 02 sensors.
(Using 24 gauge wire… Cut, extend, and solder the single wire BEFORE the plastic connector, the one that leads to the ECM. Just ziptie the plastic connector and wire safely away from any heat sources.)
19. Install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors
(Don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lengthened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).
NOTE- SPRAY every factory bolt you will remove with *PB BLASTER* it works a lot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.
12-10-2010, 04:19 PM
#18
These are the instructions I followed
Whats up bro... saw your max killin it on the OK meet page. Anyways... I wrote up (with help from others) an OBX install writeup a long time ago (as you'll see it on older pages of the ver2 OBX header thread)
I didn't wanna sh** on the other guy's parade but since youre looking to get these I figured I'd pass on my writeup to ya. It's a little more detailed:
1. Remove the radiator fans off the radiator
(These are secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car.)
2. Remove the lower splash shields.
3. Remove the motor mount bolts
(They go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket.)
4. Then remove the cross member.
5. After that remove your 02 sensors
(Use a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket.)
6. Then remove the whole y-pipe off the car.
7. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold
(You will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold.)
8. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat
9. Get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold
(You are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with ease.)
10. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat.
(It all depends on how you want to do the job.)
11. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block.
(The 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar to bend the support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts)
12. Remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts.
(There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block.)
13. Use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat.
(Reuse the factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers. They are metal and will not leak.)
14. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight.
(You can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs)
15. Then bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds.
(OBX are already connected)
16. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as hell and tighten the Ypipe.
(If you tighten the manifolds tight as hell 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to because the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when you install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off.)
18. Install your primary 02 sensors.
(Using 24 gauge wire… Cut, extend, and solder the single wire BEFORE the plastic connector, the one that leads to the ECM. Just ziptie the plastic connector and wire safely away from any heat sources.)
19. Install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors
(Don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lengthened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).
NOTE- SPRAY every factory bolt you will remove with *PB BLASTER* it works a lot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.
Whats up bro... saw your max killin it on the OK meet page. Anyways... I wrote up (with help from others) an OBX install writeup a long time ago (as you'll see it on older pages of the ver2 OBX header thread)
I didn't wanna sh** on the other guy's parade but since youre looking to get these I figured I'd pass on my writeup to ya. It's a little more detailed:
1. Remove the radiator fans off the radiator
(These are secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car.)
2. Remove the lower splash shields.
3. Remove the motor mount bolts
(They go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket.)
4. Then remove the cross member.
5. After that remove your 02 sensors
(Use a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket.)
6. Then remove the whole y-pipe off the car.
7. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold
(You will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold.)
8. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat
9. Get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold
(You are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with ease.)
10. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat.
(It all depends on how you want to do the job.)
11. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block.
(The 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar to bend the support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts)
12. Remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts.
(There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block.)
13. Use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat.
(Reuse the factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers. They are metal and will not leak.)
14. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight.
(You can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs)
15. Then bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds.
(OBX are already connected)
16. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as hell and tighten the Ypipe.
(If you tighten the manifolds tight as hell 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to because the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when you install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off.)
18. Install your primary 02 sensors.
(Using 24 gauge wire… Cut, extend, and solder the single wire BEFORE the plastic connector, the one that leads to the ECM. Just ziptie the plastic connector and wire safely away from any heat sources.)
19. Install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors
(Don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lengthened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).
NOTE- SPRAY every factory bolt you will remove with *PB BLASTER* it works a lot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.
Last edited by Fxrevolution; 12-10-2010 at 04:22 PM.
12-10-2010, 04:23 PM
#19
once you start working at it, it will become apparent...headers are quite straight forward to install...just running into snags like bolts and ****ty tools is whats going to kill your time
12-10-2010, 04:25 PM
#20
Doing my headers was one of the most frustrating undertakings. The fact that OBX designed the rear manifold and y-pipe as one piece makes things that much harder during install, trying to find the right angle to get the mani up onto the engine block.
By the way, on the rear motor mount near the firewall, there's no need to grind it down. Just take an air hammer and break the welds on the shield. Remove it completely...you don't need it. That's what I did, and it gave me a lot more room to move around.
By the way, on the rear motor mount near the firewall, there's no need to grind it down. Just take an air hammer and break the welds on the shield. Remove it completely...you don't need it. That's what I did, and it gave me a lot more room to move around.
12-10-2010, 04:28 PM
#21
Awesome write up thanks. Does make it sound easy. However I'm in the middle of installing a turbonetics turbo system on a friends g35 and one thing I've learned is that this kind of work is anything but easy. We are 2.5 days into the build and i don't think we're anywhere near done. But this will help alot now I just gotta figure out what parts of the motor mount bracket I got to cut out. Oh and for any of you thinking of doing a complicated turbo on your car yourself, one word of advise, DON'T! Holy **** I've never been more frustrated under a car. Thanks again guys.
Doing my headers was one of the most frustrating undertakings. The fact that OBX designed the rear manifold and y-pipe as one piece makes things that much harder during install, trying to find the right angle to get the mani up onto the engine block.
By the way, on the rear motor mount near the firewall, there's no need to grind it down. Just take an air hammer and break the welds on the shield. Remove it completely...you don't need it. That's what I did, and it gave me a lot more room to move around.
By the way, on the rear motor mount near the firewall, there's no need to grind it down. Just take an air hammer and break the welds on the shield. Remove it completely...you don't need it. That's what I did, and it gave me a lot more room to move around.
12-10-2010, 05:07 PM
#22
Can any body give me a 'how to' on extending the o2 sensors without soldering? I just can't do electrical or welding. I can however turn any simple task into a ridiculously complicated process 
and it's ok to use normal wire as long as I heat protect it, right?
and it's ok to use normal wire as long as I heat protect it, right?
12-10-2010, 05:09 PM
#23
Just cut, strip, and splice a length of wire in between all three wires. Works just fine. All I did was use butt connectors and then wrapped the wires up tightly with electric tape. The wires don't have to be heat-proofed. Just make sure you zip tie them clear of the collectors.
FWIW, I used speaker wire to extend my O2 sensors. No issues whatsoever.
FWIW, I used speaker wire to extend my O2 sensors. No issues whatsoever.
12-10-2010, 05:13 PM
#24
that with heat shrink tubing around it...put wires in each side and crimp with vise grips or a good electricians tool (crimpers)
12-12-2010, 12:54 AM
#25
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Baltimore,MD
Posts: 165
I just ordered my obx headers today I was wondering should I get a brand new main cat cause I heared they get clogged from my pre cat goin up and should seafoam through brake booster afterward to get the best result. Lastly the pb blaster is a spray someone said soke the headers in it, how do I go about doing this
12-13-2010, 04:05 AM
#26
I'm guessing you would remove your heat shields the night before you start the project and then spray on all the bolts (header, precats, y-pipe, and cat). Overnight the pb blaster should penetrate well enough that it'll be 1000x easier to take them off.
12-18-2010, 10:52 PM
#27
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: bergen county nj
Posts: 143
spent 7.5 hours today installed obx v2, nwp spacers, poly mounts(front and rear only for now) cooling flush and changed the oil and oil pan.. id say it was a good day... oh and i had a lift with hand and air tools
the biggest pain was removing the shields, one the crossmember was out i was able to access 4 bolts on the rear manifold from the top and the other 2 from the bottom and the front manifold all came out easy when the rad. and fan were removed
it also helped that i removed the intake manifold while doing this (nwp spacers)... killed 2 birds 1 stone
overall fairly satisfied i like the sound performance feels the same
the biggest pain was removing the shields, one the crossmember was out i was able to access 4 bolts on the rear manifold from the top and the other 2 from the bottom and the front manifold all came out easy when the rad. and fan were removed
it also helped that i removed the intake manifold while doing this (nwp spacers)... killed 2 birds 1 stone
overall fairly satisfied i like the sound performance feels the same
12-22-2010, 08:03 PM
#29
spent 7.5 hours today installed obx v2, nwp spacers, poly mounts(front and rear only for now) cooling flush and changed the oil and oil pan.. id say it was a good day... oh and i had a lift with hand and air tools
the biggest pain was removing the shields, one the crossmember was out i was able to access 4 bolts on the rear manifold from the top and the other 2 from the bottom and the front manifold all came out easy when the rad. and fan were removed
it also helped that i removed the intake manifold while doing this (nwp spacers)... killed 2 birds 1 stone
overall fairly satisfied i like the sound performance feels the same
the biggest pain was removing the shields, one the crossmember was out i was able to access 4 bolts on the rear manifold from the top and the other 2 from the bottom and the front manifold all came out easy when the rad. and fan were removed
it also helped that i removed the intake manifold while doing this (nwp spacers)... killed 2 birds 1 stone
overall fairly satisfied i like the sound performance feels the same
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