I need to replace my drivers side wheel bearing , I went to the local parts house they gave me a sealed bearing. My question is this the correct bearing for a 2k2 with a 6mt? Also does the bearing need pressed in? I searched but I only found a how to for a inner/ outer bearing setup.

 

You should look at the FSM, which you can download at this link
http://carservicemanuals.blogspot.co...4-service.html
Yes, the bearing is sealed, so no separate outer and inner seals are required on the installation, just an inner and outer circlip which hold the bearing in place..I've always managed to re-use the same circlips. Yes, the bearing will need to be pressed in, and in fact the old bearing will need to be pressed out of the steering knuckle once the circlips have been removed. Either get it done at a shop after you remove the steering knuckle from your car, or if you have access to a press, be careful how u press it in...press into the knuckle by applying pressure to the outer bearing race only, then press the hub into the bearing/steering knuckle by supporting only the inner bearing race.

 

Thanks for the quick response , and for the info ! Is there anything I need to watch out for when removing the hub?
Just to be safe I will probably just take the assembly to a machine shop to have them press it in ! Can't be without the max.
It's making a horrid noise now and has a good amount of play.

 

Removing the hub is usually fairly easy once you've slipped the axle end out of the steering knuckle. Once you have access to the back of the knuckle, you simply drive the hub out.It will usually come out with the outer half of the inner bearing race still attached, and this can either be removed by slicing a notch in the race with a grinder then snapping it open with a hammer and chisel inserted in the notch, or have it pressed off by the shop when you bring it to them. Have a good look at the hub surface where the bearing sits-if it's scored, do yourself a favour and replace it. Scoring will mean play when everything is re-assembled, and your bearing will wear out prematurely. I think I remember seeing a wear limit for the hub surface which was fractions of a mm-in other words if you have score marks that you can feel with your finger nail, replace the hub. Shop around a bit if you do need to buy a hub- for reference autoparts123 has Dorman(930-700) hubs for $48 (just bought one) or look at Courtesy of Conicelli for OEM Nissan(less than $70).In my experience local parts stores charge stupid prices for hubs. I like to have a hub on hand to avoid any delay. A few other suggestions. First, don't try and remove the abs sensor from the knuckle as the FSM suggests,as you'll probably destroy it in the process-disconnect the wire at the clip and slip the wire through the fender wall. then remove the knuckle with the sensor intact.Make sure whoever presses the bearing in and out is careful and doesn't break the sensor either. Also, I like to compress the spring on the strut and then remove the whole strut assembly to give myself more room to work. Last thing-be careful when u remove the bracket bolts for the brake caliper. They're beefy, but I still managed to snap one once-no fun since you then need to buy a bracket, or drill out the broken bolt. I now use a propane torch on most bolts before I try to loosen them.

 

 

You've mentioned this to prevent separation of the bearing caused by supporting just the knuckle and not the inner bearing race, when pressing in the hub correct?

 

Correct. The first time I changed a wheel bearing I learned from experience. If when u press the hub into the knuckle/bearing,you support only the knuckle or outer race, you are applying lateral pressure to the inner races that can result in them shifting. It's crucial on a 4th generation bearing since the inner races jutt out a bit further than the outer races, but on a 5th I think you can probably actually support inner,outer and seal together, since there's no difference in clearances, but the FSM also states to support just the inner races. Whatever you do on your 5th gen, make sure the inner is supported when u press the hub in. I hope that makes sense, I'm still on my first cup of joe.

 

It makes total sense. Damnit! I think this is what's wrong with my left front then. I get pretty bad wheel wobble and it's a brand new bearing, less then a month's worth of driving. I did both sides, and basically my whole front end is brand new, so I was having a hard time pinpointing the issue.

My car was the 1st time I pressed out/in new wheel bearings, and the only time I supported just the knuckle when pressing the hub back in. I did notice a little separation and play between the hub and knuckle at the bearing when I was done, but it was very minimal and thought it to be normal.

I provided this service here for others and have only done a few, but after my experience with my own, I supported the inner race just like you mentioned, and didn't have any play on them like I did with mine. (I'm glad to know I did all of those properly).

Thanks for mentioning that, as I think might be what my issue is. When I was on the rollers on the dyno you could actually see that wheel wobble as it increased speed, and I was wondering what was causing that. I'm going to jack the car up and see if I can't do the bearing test, as I hope that's what it is. It's also noticeable on the road when I'm getting on it, and as the speeds climb higher. I'm 90%+ sure this is the problem. Thanks again for the insight!

 

Jeez, I feel for ya! As I said, been there, done that...I was in such a hurry to get everything together that first time that I didn't think it through, nor read the FSM properly. On the bright side, that FCPimport carries Beck Arnley wheel bearings and that sale might get you a discount on an already good price. I seem to recall they are manufactured by an OEM supplier, but I forget who.

 

I get a pretty good Tier discount from Nissan from a good buddy of mine, so I went with oem when I bought these. Rockauto had really good prices on a brand called Tiken, which I pressed in for others and they seemed to still hold up pretty well. I'm going to have to order another one as well now.

 

So just to clarify there is no difference between the auto and 6mt hub assemblies?
Because there is only one listed on autoparts123. Thanks!

 

Correct.

 

I ended up buying the dorman hub with 2 day shipping off of amazon for 60 bucks, still 120 bucks cheaper than autozone for the same damn part.
I decided to just be safe and get myself a new hub . If the old one is still good I will have a spare!

 

Should have called Dave B for OEM parts.... I'm doing my hub and bearing this weekend.

Some of the aftermarket bearings are cheaply made. Hope yours turns out okay.

 

I didn't cheap out on the bearing. I bought a National brand bearing I have never had a problem using them in past cars.

 

If you want to save some down time... I have spindle/hub assemblies (100K). You can have the the new bearing pressed in and offer your spindle/hub assmeblies to another orger?

 

Did my driver side front bearing yesterday...holy crapola. When I drove the hub out of the knuckle(which was a pita) and had a look at the outer side of the knuckle/bearing I wanted to scream!! Lots of corrosion, and I spent 20 minutes just clearing away enough rust to see the damned snap ring, then another hour to get the thing out. Heated it with an acetylene torch but it wouldn't budge, so eventually had to cut a little notch on the outer edge of the knuckle then use a punch to get the little bugger out. I didn't even touch the inner snap ring, and pressed the bearing from in to out, which is opposite to what the FSM suggests, pressed in the new bearing and installed a new snap ring. (Note to self- always have spare snap rings on hand when doing a 5th). The hub looked perfect, with no scoring, but I pressed in the new hub-I'll clean up the old and keep it as a spare. I'm thinking Nissan should not have omitted the seals on the 5th generation knuckle hub assembly design despite the sealed bearing. To the OP, I hope yours goes/went better than this.

 

^ What a PITA. I'm about ready to tackle this job as well........again. I hope it goes as smooth as the first time. I've had my front end apart about 20+ times so it shouldn't be too bad.

 

did this a few months ago.
the most difficult part is pressing out and in the new bearing.

if you're a DIY'er i would recommend removing the whole knuckle and taking it to a machine shop and have them press out and in the new bearing.

it just saves you around 30 minutes ( the setup alone can take awhile if you dont have the adapters ) and all you would have to do is remove and replace the knuckle ( very easy on our cars )

 

Ditto...but never on this particular car, and never seen corrosion like that around the bearing.The passenger side was changed a year ago by the previous owner, and I'm guessing the driver side was due shortly after, but didn't get done. It was noisy when I test drove it, so I expected to find a worn bearing, I was just surprised when I saw all that rust behind the hub-I'd never seen a rusted snap ring before. In future I'll make sure I have spare snap rings on hand before I tackle a wheel bearing. Yours will be a walk in the park Dd, since you had it apart in the recent past. Cheers.

 

I am trying to do this job right now, but am having trouble getting the spindle out of the hub...anyone have any tips on trying to force this this out, ie. which way to press/hit it out is the easiest?

 

Is the balljoint/tie rod/Lower strut mount still connected?
Once those are disconnected, the caliper is unbolted, and you've unplugged the ABS connector, and fed the wire toward the hub, the whole assembly just comes right off, no hitting of axel spindle or hub necessary (sometimes the axel needs a light tap to get it started but that's it.)

And sometimes the Control arm is stiff, you may need to pry down on the control arm a bit to get the ball joint free from the hub.

 

I am also doing this job right now and this is helping me understand it all, along with the fsm.
http://motorvate.ca/node/65

 

Easiest way to remove the hub is to remove the entire knuckle and put it in a vice, get a ball peen hammer and put the round head into the back of the hub and use another hammer to hit the flat side of the head. In 2 or 3 good hits it comes right out.

I'm not sure how some of you guys are doing this without a press, the only other way I know how would be to use a hub tamer which eliminates removing the knuckle.