BC Racing Coilovers Discussion
01-07-2011, 05:48 PM
#42
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D2 Coilovers are a much better choice then the BC. Some points:
-D2 are made in Japan
-D2 has indivudal adjustability to adjust each coilover as 1 unit
-D2 uses pillowball mounts made with steel bearings. Rubber is crap.
-D2 uses 52mm shock bodies. BC does not.
-All D2 Coilovers have locking collars.
-Fully rebuildable in the U.S. with an outstanding customer service and 2 warehouses in the United States.
BCR is made in China. The rear lower mounts on BC are all steel where as the rear lower mounts on D2 is aluminum. Aluminum is more expensive and lighter.
I believe only the top of the line model has the 53mm shock bodies.
-D2 are made in Japan
-D2 has indivudal adjustability to adjust each coilover as 1 unit
-D2 uses pillowball mounts made with steel bearings. Rubber is crap.
-D2 uses 52mm shock bodies. BC does not.
-All D2 Coilovers have locking collars.
-Fully rebuildable in the U.S. with an outstanding customer service and 2 warehouses in the United States.
BCR is made in China. The rear lower mounts on BC are all steel where as the rear lower mounts on D2 is aluminum. Aluminum is more expensive and lighter.
I believe only the top of the line model has the 53mm shock bodies.
BC racing coilovers are manufactured in Taiwan, possibly by Apexi (unverified).
BCs can be adjusted individually, and the rears even include remote adjustment.
BCs have locking collars.
BCs also have the choice of either pillowball mounts (default) or the rubber ones, and include camber plates.
The shock bodies are 53MM.
They are rebuildable in the US at their Florida location.
lol?
99% of this info can be had at http://www.bcracing-na.com/bcproduct.html
01-07-2011, 06:02 PM
#46
Anyhow basically whether you go with BC, D2, K sport, Greddy, Tanabe, Megan, and about 10 other companies, they are still the basic level coilovers. Unless your doing serious racing and upgrading to the more sophisticated designed coilovers its all pretty equal. A few differences here and there. If you really want something that will make a difference Tein SS or KW. None of the other companies come close to match either the KW or Tein. We run the KW on our track car and the TEIN SS EDFC on our other car.
WE have used Megans, we have used D2, K sport, etc. Save a few extra weeks pay and go for a company like that if you want quality and performance
WE have used Megans, we have used D2, K sport, etc. Save a few extra weeks pay and go for a company like that if you want quality and performance
01-07-2011, 06:16 PM
#47
spelt
01-07-2011, 09:13 PM
#51
Aluminum also wears out quicker when in a location that is prone to movement, because it is a softer metal.
The Aluminum ALLOY that Tein and Tanabe use is higher grade than that used by D2.
Anyways, I'm somewhat interested to see what you could do for a GD, although I have to admit I'm Leary about taking your personal advice on products after the clear lack of knowledge about those products.
That aside, interested in a price, I would consider a set for the proper $, I'm in the market right now.
I have seen good reviews on dealing with you from a business stand point.
As far as recommendations, I'll stick to the forums gurus and a swift mouse.
01-07-2011, 09:35 PM
#52
Follow up on 'maintenence for Inverted'
From BCR RE: Inverted BC Coil overs:
Personal note to MaximusTi : Apparently you were more correct than I gave you credit for, this is not something I was aware of. I was aware of needing to grease, etc, but had no idea it was this extensive.
Sounds like we should investigate 'coilover maintenence' a bit closer, I know I will be.
-Matt
Matt,
The upkeep is mostly making sure you repack the outer cartridge of
grease. It requires not only removal, but disassembly of the coil over
as well. They aren't intended for daily driving and are more prone to
pop a seal if ran into potholes or speed bumps. Typically this is caused
due to the faster compression build ups from street rated springs. We
personally did a full season on our entry level br's to prove the br is
capable of track and street.
The upkeep is mostly making sure you repack the outer cartridge of
grease. It requires not only removal, but disassembly of the coil over
as well. They aren't intended for daily driving and are more prone to
pop a seal if ran into potholes or speed bumps. Typically this is caused
due to the faster compression build ups from street rated springs. We
personally did a full season on our entry level br's to prove the br is
capable of track and street.
Sounds like we should investigate 'coilover maintenence' a bit closer, I know I will be.
-Matt
01-07-2011, 10:40 PM
#53
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Here's something interesting. I was reading on the Tein and BC Racing websites... Tein advertises their SS pistons to be "large" at 22mm... But BC Racing says their pistons are 46mm. That's quite a difference! Does this matter? Wouldn't bigger be beefier and better, or am I not looking at this the right way?
Here's something else: Tein says that the maximum drop is 3.1f and 2.7r. I'm almost certain BCs have more lowering potential. Is this correct? (not that I'd actually ride lower than that on a daily basis, but it'd be nice to have the option for the occasional show etc.)
Here's something else: Tein says that the maximum drop is 3.1f and 2.7r. I'm almost certain BCs have more lowering potential. Is this correct? (not that I'd actually ride lower than that on a daily basis, but it'd be nice to have the option for the occasional show etc.)
Last edited by jowo9; 01-07-2011 at 11:05 PM.
01-08-2011, 04:42 AM
#54
^good question. i've seen some on Tein SS and they look pretty slammed...but i dont know if they max'd out the drop or not..same with the setups ive seen on BCs...but i do know that D2s go sick low...
i'm guessing larger Diameter pistons mean thats its able to withstand 'shock' better....i dont know. ask both companies about why they used their pistons sizes and why they didnt go smaller or larger...respectively.
i'm guessing larger Diameter pistons mean thats its able to withstand 'shock' better....i dont know. ask both companies about why they used their pistons sizes and why they didnt go smaller or larger...respectively.
01-08-2011, 05:52 AM
#55
D2 drops 3.5 inches on most applications but I know megan also has that drop. Your difference though is with ride quality and I know the tein ss handle great slammed. I actually have pictures I will post with a tib on D2 coilovers that is not much more than a lock/unlock controls diameter off the ground
Last edited by JM AUTO RACING; 01-08-2011 at 05:57 AM.
01-08-2011, 05:55 AM
#56
01-08-2011, 05:57 AM
#57
its been noted in a link i posted in another thread from nycmaximas...that because of the comfort aspect of the Tein SS, handling is sacrificed. seems that the only coilover to achieve Tein SS comfort with D2 handling (figuring that D2s aspect of making theirs are handling, not from experience) are the JIC FLT-A2s, which has been said, not only by that thread, but a few members that i know, are the best coilovers hands down. but you also pay the price of those.
01-08-2011, 06:09 AM
#59
not saying the Teins dont handle well at all, but from what i have read...when you go to a maxima that has the Tein SS, then you go to a car that has the D2s...you can tell a difference in handling capabilities. i'm sure they handle well, but not as good as the D2s...which is why i'm saying that the JICs would be PRIMARY for someone INSISTING on superb comfort and handling. i believe teh BCs i purchased will easily tickle my fancy with comfort and handling...and pocket lol
01-08-2011, 06:27 AM
#60
Here's something interesting. I was reading on the Tein and BC Racing websites... Tein advertises their SS pistons to be "large" at 22mm... But BC Racing says their pistons are 46mm. That's quite a difference! Does this matter? Wouldn't bigger be beefier and better, or am I not looking at this the right way?
Here's something else: Tein says that the maximum drop is 3.1f and 2.7r. I'm almost certain BCs have more lowering potential. Is this correct? (not that I'd actually ride lower than that on a daily basis, but it'd be nice to have the option for the occasional show etc.)
Here's something else: Tein says that the maximum drop is 3.1f and 2.7r. I'm almost certain BCs have more lowering potential. Is this correct? (not that I'd actually ride lower than that on a daily basis, but it'd be nice to have the option for the occasional show etc.)
I could be wrong, just a guess based on the measurments. There is no way the rod is 46mm right?
01-08-2011, 06:31 AM
#61
01-08-2011, 06:44 AM
#62
http://www.bcracing-na.com/products.php?view=Technical
"Larger piston diameter for strut type front and rear (22mm)"
http://www.tein.com/products/super_street.html
Well over four times the piston surface area for the BC's. Interesting.
01-08-2011, 07:02 AM
#63
claim to be rebuilt or recently rebuilt, some have blown dampers etc.
Brian Catts also eluded too the fact the many of the coilovers offered for the maxima need
frequent maintenance.
01-08-2011, 07:58 AM
#64
I've never personally done this but let's do shock dynos on a few of these which will really give some valuable info. I know there are people that are skeptical of these but can't hurt. I can deff get a shock from D2 and my relations at tein are pretty strong so I can try to get one of those. I will also contact BC and any other company you want. I doubt jic will send one so probably will be out of the test
01-08-2011, 08:04 AM
#65
That's something I've noticed in my research. Many of the used coilover setups for sale also
claim to be rebuilt or recently rebuilt, some have blown dampers etc.
Brian Catts also eluded too the fact the many of the coilovers offered for the maxima need
frequent maintenance.
claim to be rebuilt or recently rebuilt, some have blown dampers etc.
Brian Catts also eluded too the fact the many of the coilovers offered for the maxima need
frequent maintenance.
There are also alot of other factors that cause coilovers to go faster. Proper maintenance of the car including your control arms, bushings etc help prolong its life
01-08-2011, 08:37 AM
#66
A refurbished coilover is not like a refurbished phone. Unless you blown your original CO buying used coils is a bad idea. You don't know the driving habits of the previous owner and there could be more problems lingering.
There are also alot of other factors that cause coilovers to go faster. Proper maintenance of the car including your control arms, bushings etc help prolong its life
There are also alot of other factors that cause coilovers to go faster. Proper maintenance of the car including your control arms, bushings etc help prolong its life
I was responding too Rochester's question about the frequency of maintenance.
01-08-2011, 09:11 AM
#67
I've never personally done this but let's do shock dynos on a few of these which will really give some valuable info. I know there are people that are skeptical of these but can't hurt. I can deff get a shock from D2 and my relations at tein are pretty strong so I can try to get one of those. I will also contact BC and any other company you want. I doubt jic will send one so probably will be out of the test
01-08-2011, 09:36 AM
#68
"Coilovers use 46mm pistons and 53mm shock housings, the enlarged shock cartridges with specially designed pistons and rods provide a wide range of damping force."
http://www.bcracing-na.com/products.php?view=Technical
"Larger piston diameter for strut type front and rear (22mm)"
http://www.tein.com/products/super_street.html
Well over four times the piston surface area for the BC's. Interesting.
http://www.bcracing-na.com/products.php?view=Technical
"Larger piston diameter for strut type front and rear (22mm)"
http://www.tein.com/products/super_street.html
Well over four times the piston surface area for the BC's. Interesting.
bigger is not necessarily better. I will elaborate when I don't have a screaming baby in my arms
-Larger the Shaft (rod) the softer the compression/rebound (ON THE SAME PISTON DIAMETER AND VALVING)
-Balance is key here, there are math equations, testing, and strength of Metal used to consider.
As I stated before in this thread, if it's stronger steel, it can be smaller without comprimising strength, and vise-versa.
There is much more to consider than Piston Diameter. Besides, the piston diameter has very little to do with the overall 'strength' of the coilover system. The rod diameter is more important for strength (assuming the same steel was used)
Piston is on the end of the rod (just like an engine) for those of you who are confused. You cannot see the piston unless you dissasemble the shock
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 01-08-2011 at 09:54 AM.
01-08-2011, 09:44 AM
#69
01-08-2011, 12:11 PM
#70
A Twin Tube internal design is utilized for increased piston stroke for improved handling and comfort during street use. Another major feature of the Twin Tube design is that is more durable in the case of damage to the actual damper body
^I believe this is why.
01-08-2011, 05:17 PM
#73
I've never personally done this but let's do shock dynos on a few of these which will really give some valuable info. I know there are people that are skeptical of these but can't hurt. I can deff get a shock from D2 and my relations at tein are pretty strong so I can try to get one of those. I will also contact BC and any other company you want. I doubt jic will send one so probably will be out of the test
I'll see if I can dig the thread up...but the results were pretty surprising. They tested all four sides on each set of coilovers, and found that the rebound rates for all four were pretty different when put next to one another.
In other words, each damper was rebounding more or less aggressively than the other. On the same setup.
The best results they got actually came from a set of Koni Yellow strut inserts.
For daily driving, obviously this isn't a big deal. But for anyone going into road course racing/autocross, it might be a minor annoyance.
01-08-2011, 05:30 PM
#74
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This is interesting. I found a comparison by Tein of a twin-tube (Tein) vs. mono-tube (BC) shock design... it states that the twin tube design is better for street use. I've heard Teins are the best for street use because of this, and I've come to this conclusion simply based their reputation for durability... I also assume that the reason people say the Teins ride great slammed is because of this twin-tube design. It allows for better stroke (shock travel) because the oil and gas chambers aren't positioned serially (see comparison in link). What do you guys think about this?
http://www.ek9.org/forum/suspension/...info-tein.html
Like Tein says in this comparison, each type has it's application. I guess these particular coilovers are called "Super Street" for a reason. And, like we were discussing earlier, the BC piston is larger... but that's only because the mono-tube design has a larger piston. It doesn't mean it's better at all! Just a different design.
Anyway, sounds like Tein FTW for my needs (street use)... Wahoo!! I'm that much closer to redeciding on Tein SS's.
http://www.ek9.org/forum/suspension/...info-tein.html
Like Tein says in this comparison, each type has it's application. I guess these particular coilovers are called "Super Street" for a reason. And, like we were discussing earlier, the BC piston is larger... but that's only because the mono-tube design has a larger piston. It doesn't mean it's better at all! Just a different design.
Anyway, sounds like Tein FTW for my needs (street use)... Wahoo!! I'm that much closer to redeciding on Tein SS's.
Last edited by jowo9; 01-08-2011 at 06:03 PM.
01-08-2011, 08:09 PM
#75
This is interesting. I found a comparison by Tein of a twin-tube (Tein) vs. mono-tube (BC) shock design... it states that the twin tube design is better for street use. I've heard Teins are the best for street use because of this, and I've come to this conclusion simply based their reputation for durability... I also assume that the reason people say the Teins ride great slammed is because of this twin-tube design. It allows for better stroke (shock travel) because the oil and gas chambers aren't positioned serially (see comparison in link). What do you guys think about this?
http://www.ek9.org/forum/suspension/...info-tein.html
Like Tein says in this comparison, each type has it's application. I guess these particular coil overs are called "Super Street" for a reason. And, like we were discussing earlier, the BC piston is larger... but that's only because the mono-tube design has a larger piston. It doesn't mean it's better at all! Just a different design.
Anyway, sounds like Tein FTW for my needs (street use)... Wahoo!! I'm that much closer to redeciding on Tein SS's.
http://www.ek9.org/forum/suspension/...info-tein.html
Like Tein says in this comparison, each type has it's application. I guess these particular coil overs are called "Super Street" for a reason. And, like we were discussing earlier, the BC piston is larger... but that's only because the mono-tube design has a larger piston. It doesn't mean it's better at all! Just a different design.
Anyway, sounds like Tein FTW for my needs (street use)... Wahoo!! I'm that much closer to redeciding on Tein SS's.
That is a wicked link, great illustrations too! Good find man.
This also speaks to the longevity of Tein shock absorbers. It also has pretty much made up my mind.
The reason why it made up my mind, is the excessive pressure exerted on Mono tube Shock seals, I will be riding in extreme cold and poor weather.
This also explains why most seals/etc. blow in cold weather on most coil overs.
It further explains why Tein's have such a good rep in Canada.
-Matt
01-08-2011, 08:10 PM
#76
I want to note too, I found out most of the Coilover manufacturers DO NOT reccomend putting chemicals/grease, etc on the coilover to 'protect' it.
Apparently most of the stuff you would put on (grease especially) will wear down the protective coating they apply at the factory, and/or cause a chemical reaction causing deterioration FASTER then if you would have just left it alone.
Best recomendation is to keep those puppies clean, clean, clean.
I would assume vaseline is still safe.
I am also investigating other products that can be used, because zinc coating just doesn't last (most use Zinc) in my experience.
Apparently most of the stuff you would put on (grease especially) will wear down the protective coating they apply at the factory, and/or cause a chemical reaction causing deterioration FASTER then if you would have just left it alone.
Best recomendation is to keep those puppies clean, clean, clean.
I would assume vaseline is still safe.
I am also investigating other products that can be used, because zinc coating just doesn't last (most use Zinc) in my experience.
01-08-2011, 08:30 PM
#77
I WANT SHOCK DYNOS 
For real though, if shock dynos can be shown for D2, MR, KS, BC, Tein, JIC, etc that would help for those who are interested in handling.
I read a thread about shock dynos for several popular aftermarket dampers, including Tokico and KYB units. Those aren't even consistent. Hell, this article I read claimed that the only damper having any consistency was Konis. And it also said, forget about having a linear dampening increase with these one piece coil/damper setups, because the Konis are the only dampers actually increase dampening linearly/predictably... 
Need dynos of the D2s, maybe I'll buy a all new set if the results are favorable.
Quick notes here, NEX GT uses a twin tube setup as well, if I remember correctly. I'd consider the SS or GT models of NEX coilovers, they are affordable, have a good reputation for smooooth ride and the twin tube setup has been shown to hold up better in the winter time than the monotube setup. I spoke to another member here (4th gen) who had the GTs through multiple NY winters without issues at that time. They are also rebuildable.
For real though, if shock dynos can be shown for D2, MR, KS, BC, Tein, JIC, etc that would help for those who are interested in handling.
I don't think it was here on the org, but I believe it was on another Nissan forum, a bunch of guys did shock dynos on Megans, D2s and Ksports.
I'll see if I can dig the thread up...but the results were pretty surprising. They tested all four sides on each set of coilovers, and found that the rebound rates for all four were pretty different when put next to one another.
In other words, each damper was rebounding more or less aggressively than the other. On the same setup.
The best results they got actually came from a set of Koni Yellow strut inserts.
For daily driving, obviously this isn't a big deal. But for anyone going into road course racing/autocross, it might be a minor annoyance.
I'll see if I can dig the thread up...but the results were pretty surprising. They tested all four sides on each set of coilovers, and found that the rebound rates for all four were pretty different when put next to one another.
In other words, each damper was rebounding more or less aggressively than the other. On the same setup.
The best results they got actually came from a set of Koni Yellow strut inserts.
For daily driving, obviously this isn't a big deal. But for anyone going into road course racing/autocross, it might be a minor annoyance.
Need dynos of the D2s, maybe I'll buy a all new set if the results are favorable.
Quick notes here, NEX GT uses a twin tube setup as well, if I remember correctly. I'd consider the SS or GT models of NEX coilovers, they are affordable, have a good reputation for smooooth ride and the twin tube setup has been shown to hold up better in the winter time than the monotube setup. I spoke to another member here (4th gen) who had the GTs through multiple NY winters without issues at that time. They are also rebuildable.
01-08-2011, 08:46 PM
#78
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Now you're on the trolley!!
That is a wicked link, great illustrations too! Good find man.
This also speaks to the longevity of Tein shock absorbers. It also has pretty much made up my mind.
The reason why it made up my mind, is the excessive pressure exerted on Mono tube Shock seals, I will be riding in extreme cold and poor weather.
This also explains why most seals/etc. blow in cold weather on most coil overs.
It further explains why Tein's have such a good rep in Canada.
-Matt
That is a wicked link, great illustrations too! Good find man.
This also speaks to the longevity of Tein shock absorbers. It also has pretty much made up my mind.
The reason why it made up my mind, is the excessive pressure exerted on Mono tube Shock seals, I will be riding in extreme cold and poor weather.
This also explains why most seals/etc. blow in cold weather on most coil overs.
It further explains why Tein's have such a good rep in Canada.
-Matt
01-09-2011, 06:11 AM
#79
Quick notes here, NEX GT uses a twin tube setup as well, if I remember correctly. I'd consider the SS or GT models of NEX coilovers, they are affordable, have a good reputation for smooooth ride and the twin tube setup has been shown to hold up better in the winter time than the monotube setup. I spoke to another member here (4th gen) who had the GTs through multiple NY winters without issues at that time. They are also rebuildable.
And shock dyno's aren't as much use to most of us daily drivers anyways. If you're tweaking for the track it makes sense to play with the dynos.
I'd still be interested in viewing them though.
Shock dyno's are used by the manufacturer more to make sure they meet specs before leaving the factory (QQ) than to prove the quality of the shock set up.
01-09-2011, 12:11 PM
#80
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I'll have to look at them a bit too. They are the only option I haven't explored, wasn't able to find much info the first time around...
And shock dyno's aren't as much use to most of us daily drivers anyways. If you're tweaking for the track it makes sense to play with the dynos.
I'd still be interested in viewing them though.
Shock dyno's are used by the manufacturer more to make sure they meet specs before leaving the factory (QQ) than to prove the quality of the shock set up.
And shock dyno's aren't as much use to most of us daily drivers anyways. If you're tweaking for the track it makes sense to play with the dynos.
I'd still be interested in viewing them though.
Shock dyno's are used by the manufacturer more to make sure they meet specs before leaving the factory (QQ) than to prove the quality of the shock set up.