colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

I just put on the OBX headers on my 03 Max on Wednesday and when I shift hard I noticed the RPM needle bounces violently from about 5-6k like 4 times before it begins to move normally. The car doesn't jerk though nor do I feel any unusual jerking from the motor. The needle is also a little jerky when I am slowing down, but again the car isn't. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Also I have the o2's in with out any spacers or anything and I'm not throwing a code yet. Could the car not yet have adjusted to the headers yet? It feels as if I lost a little low end power but gained high. Is that normal?

One other question, where can I buy o2 simulators or an o2 elbow?

datsunzcar84

iTrader: (1)

O2 elbow ? Sorry can't help there but this site sells dual output sim's
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

www.o2simulator.com

I didn't have any symptom like yours after I install mine. Did u put the front 2 primary o2 sensors? I would double check the headers bolts make sure its not loose.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

That site is still up and takes your money, but does NOT ship out any O2simulators anymore. If you go to the forums on that website, you can see at least 1-2 years of people rage posting.

I ordered my most recent set of O2 sims off amazon after my O2sim.com one failed.

By elbows, i think he means to say spark plug defoulers. They work great if you have bungs. All you need is 2 spark plug defoulers and drill them out for the O2 sensor to fit, or you can order "premade" ones at a relative premium.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for the o2sim.com tip lol

By elbow I mean an elbow that goes into the o2 bung then 90's so your o2 sensor can be at a different angle. I had a spec that I used the spacer on. The header bolts are all nice and tight.

VQ'rInWLA

iTrader: (83)

A damn good heads up. I was getting ready to order a few for my install....

Thanks for that sparks!

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

All you really need is defoulers to fool the O2 sensors unless you have some clearance problem and really need an elbow.

I think what he meant by the header bolts is to go back in 2-3 weeks and check them again. They can work loose.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

I do have some clearance problems so I am going to go with the elbow. If I put my elbow on the top bung with my secondary in it then my primary in the next bung will everyhting be ok? My theory is that the primary will still get a good af reading and the secondary will be spaced enough to be getting a different reading then the primary, even know the secondary will come first.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Yeah it probably won't matter much. I left my secondary O2 sensors zip tied in the engine bay for 6+ months without any codes. Eventually, when winter started setting in, it finally threw the code, so I installed simulators.

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Idk sparks I ordered from them in January. They gave me a tracking number and everything. The sim works well too.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Have seen way more evidence to the contrary on top of the prematurely failed sim that i got from them the first time. If you say they're actually shipping, then I guess OP can just order at his own risk.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

ok, I am going with the elbow.

Any ideas why my tach needle would be bouncing all over the place with out any jerking from the car or motor?

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Not something I've experienced or heard of. Can you get some video?

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

I can't get a vid till tomorrow but, I know this will sound odd, if you were to hold a cheese stick and wave it in the air and then stop, thats what it looks like....lol if you can imagine that, that is what is basically doing.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Mine bounces a little bit when I'm flat foot shifting at the track, but that's a ceramic clutch forcing the engine ~1500 RPMs lower just about instantly. I can imagine what you're saying, but i don't see why headers would cause it really.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

That makes sense but I'm not saying the headers caused it. I think it just so happened that it started a day after the headers went on. You think it could be possible that a combo of horrible wheel hop, lots of vibration from the impact wrench, and the coilovers over time could have caused it to come loose?

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Must be all the wheel spin on upshifts with all that power you got from the headers.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

clutch slip?

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

That's usually something that you feel and hear. Bit of a sickening feeling.

Sneaky Green

Don't know if this may help but I got this from my man Scott Diesel aka Scottwax

6MT hesitation TSB: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-022.pdf

basically try a new MAF

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

As far as I can tell from OP's description, he's saying that the engine isn't missing, randomly changing RPMs, or hesitating, but the RPM needle is doing strange things without the engine following along. I could be wrong, but if it's just the needle and not the engine having problems, MAF won't help.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

lol you pretty much nailed it sparks. How hard is it to take off the part of the dash around the cluster to get to the needle? Can the needle just be loose?

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

Does the needle sit accurately on idle? I highly doubt the needle is loose though, because this situation started after you changed to headers. A video clip of it will help for sure.

Bassbreaker

iTrader: (8)

your car is nearly 9 years old. There could be a chance that something is going wrong with the tach. I mean over those past years, i'm sure the car has had it's fair share of bumps...

Did you do this yourself? or did you get a shop to install them?

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

I put them on myself. Thats what I'm thinking, that over the years it has just got loose, but idk how the tach works, like is it just a bolt that could be loose or what.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

So I can't send a video with my phone for some reason. It keeps saying file to big even though its only 9 sec long....ugh

Lsgun1

iTrader: (1)

Open a photobucket account and post it there then set up a link to it.

VQ'rInWLA

iTrader: (83)

Via text? Try emailing it to yourself and uploading to a photobucket, etc from a pc. If not, then best bet is to follow above posters advice.

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

Well the good news is I know what is wrong, just not how to fix it. When I shut my car off I wanted to see if it was loose by tapping the top of the dash above it. I hit it and it bounced, then hit it a little harder and it bounced enough to go all the way around. lol

So how do I take the dash apart to fix the needle and tighten it?

OnOiShNo0dl3Z

iTrader: (2)

Taking off the dash isnt too bad. You can probably find out with a quick search. There's a couple screws below the steering wheel and around the gauges. Then lower your steering wheel all the way and pull it out slowly.

Colin, did you get the OBX V2's? Did you have any fitment issues? Someone said that the new ones dont need any modifications to the car to fit.

tdabboud

iTrader: (6)

^ hit the nail on the head.

-There are 2 screws at the top of the guage cluster bezel; going to have to angle your screwdriver so you can get to them.
-The bezel now only has 4 clips holding it in position along the bottom. You're going to have to pull on the bezel to unlatch the clips just be careful not to snap the bezel itself. (make sure you pulled out any swithes that were on it first.) the bezel should now be able to be pulled out.
-You can take apart the steering column trim to make it easier to pull the bezel out but its not necessary
-Then there are only 3 screws left. one above the guage cluster, and 1 on each side at the bottom.
-once these are out the guage cluster should be free to pull out

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

Sweeet! thankyou.

I had the V2 headers and you do need some mods for it to fit. I had to shave down the cross member a little and I got an elbow for the rear bank one o2

colin_SE

iTrader: (5)

So I got the cluster out and took it apart and found that the tach as 100% play. Just flops around. Is there anyway to fix just the rpm needle or do I need a new cluster?

MaximaMan77

Had the same issue today. I happened in 3rd after redlining 1st & 2nd. The needle just sorta fluttered when it hit 4k. It fell down and up a couple times before reading normal again at around 5k. Foot was to the floor the whole time and I didn't hear or feel anything odd from the car at all.

I just put leds in the cluster could that be the cause? I don't see how it could but it's odd that the leds went in on 4/9...

Did you find a solution?