Just installed some new tweeters
08-14-2011, 02:55 PM
#1
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Just installed some new tweeters
I chose the Infinity 1031T reference tweeters by recommendation. Nice upgrade! I can actually hear symbols and even a hint of imaging now.
This is on the factory system and I had to knock down the level of the tweets to match the factory system as they were way too loud out of the box. They are rated @ 93 db and I cut them by about 5 db.
Very worth while if you want to retain stock system and improve sound quality IMO. Only took about 3 hours total and that included going back in to do the attenuation circuit.
This is on the factory system and I had to knock down the level of the tweets to match the factory system as they were way too loud out of the box. They are rated @ 93 db and I cut them by about 5 db.
Very worth while if you want to retain stock system and improve sound quality IMO. Only took about 3 hours total and that included going back in to do the attenuation circuit.
08-15-2011, 01:47 PM
#4
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Right now i have the factory Blose system's treble on 4 so i guess you can say i want some high sounds. Would any new tweeters just hook directly up to the wires or would all new tweeters require pass filters to be hooked up if they are included?
08-15-2011, 02:05 PM
#5
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You need the pass filter whether they're included or not. The filter blocks the low frequencies from getting through which would quickly destroy the tweeter. The filter can be as simple as the factory one-a single capacitor.
This gives you a first order crossover.
Second order would consist of a capacitor and an inductor. The 1031T tweets actually come with a little circuit board network.
I had my treble set on + 5; the highest setting. With the Infinity tweets and an approximate 5 db cut, I now have the treble set to 0. They're way too loud without the 5 db loss L-pad.
This gives you a first order crossover.
Second order would consist of a capacitor and an inductor. The 1031T tweets actually come with a little circuit board network.
I had my treble set on + 5; the highest setting. With the Infinity tweets and an approximate 5 db cut, I now have the treble set to 0. They're way too loud without the 5 db loss L-pad.
08-15-2011, 04:18 PM
#6
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Nice.
I had the Infinity 1021's in the Max, but one just stopped working. I was tempted to go with a set of 1031's, but went with the Pioneer TS-T110's. They aren't as "bright" or as loud as the older 1021's, but they still sound decent.
It took under an hour to install and I have them just mounted with double sided tape that I picked up at Michael's.
The ones I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009QOU5
I had the Infinity 1021's in the Max, but one just stopped working. I was tempted to go with a set of 1031's, but went with the Pioneer TS-T110's. They aren't as "bright" or as loud as the older 1021's, but they still sound decent.
It took under an hour to install and I have them just mounted with double sided tape that I picked up at Michael's.
The ones I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009QOU5
08-16-2011, 08:26 AM
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08-16-2011, 05:06 PM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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You need the pass filter whether they're included or not. The filter blocks the low frequencies from getting through which would quickly destroy the tweeter. The filter can be as simple as the factory one-a single capacitor.
This gives you a first order crossover.
Second order would consist of a capacitor and an inductor. The 1031T tweets actually come with a little circuit board network.
I had my treble set on + 5; the highest setting. With the Infinity tweets and an approximate 5 db cut, I now have the treble set to 0. They're way too loud without the 5 db loss L-pad.
This gives you a first order crossover.
Second order would consist of a capacitor and an inductor. The 1031T tweets actually come with a little circuit board network.
I had my treble set on + 5; the highest setting. With the Infinity tweets and an approximate 5 db cut, I now have the treble set to 0. They're way too loud without the 5 db loss L-pad.
I cant tell you how many times i have seen the factory tweeter pics and never noticed the capacitor/inductor. And just so im sure, if tweeters have the heatshrunk capacitor "bulge" already in-line then i am OK to hook it right up to the wires? I ask this because i see some tweeters that come with crossovers that are in large plastic housings. (i assume they both do generally the same thing?)
08-16-2011, 06:13 PM
#16
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Yea, sorry guys, I definetly should have took pics. Rather selfish of me.
If the inline wiring has a "heat shrink bulge", then 99% that's the crossover and your good to go.
However, you must take into account the impedance and the efficiency of the new drivers compared to the exisitng system.
Tweeters are generally more sfficient than mid/bass drivers, so they may need to be tamed down a little in order to make them blend properly.
If the inline wiring has a "heat shrink bulge", then 99% that's the crossover and your good to go.
However, you must take into account the impedance and the efficiency of the new drivers compared to the exisitng system.
Tweeters are generally more sfficient than mid/bass drivers, so they may need to be tamed down a little in order to make them blend properly.
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