Lightweight pulley for the DE-K
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
Lightweight pulley for the DE-K
My crank pulley busted, since I have to replace it I figured I would look into an upgrade/lightened one.
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I found a few but not sure if any one is better than another.
Personally for price I thought the OBX Racing one is not bad, I can get it off ebay.
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I found a few but not sure if any one is better than another.
Personally for price I thought the OBX Racing one is not bad, I can get it off ebay.
The UR pulley new is $231 direct. (Underdrive only. They stopped making the OEM diameter lightweight pulley.) It's a steep price for what you get out of it, which is a very small reclaimed gain down low. It feels like something for a few days, and then it's just the new normal.
As an upgrade... meh. But if you have to buy one anyway because your OEM crank is busted, then it's an opportunity. And if you can get a new one off eBay for $65, then it's a no brainer.
Buy the thing.
As an upgrade... meh. But if you have to buy one anyway because your OEM crank is busted, then it's an opportunity. And if you can get a new one off eBay for $65, then it's a no brainer.
Buy the thing.
The UR pulley new is $231 direct. (Underdrive only. They stopped making the OEM diameter lightweight pulley.) It's a steep price for what you get out of it, which is a very small reclaimed gain down low. It feels like something for a few days, and then it's just the new normal.
As an upgrade... meh. But if you have to buy one anyway because your OEM crank is busted, then it's an opportunity. And if you can get a new one off eBay for $65, then it's a no brainer.
Buy the thing.
As an upgrade... meh. But if you have to buy one anyway because your OEM crank is busted, then it's an opportunity. And if you can get a new one off eBay for $65, then it's a no brainer.
Buy the thing.
The UR pulley new is $231 direct. (Underdrive only. They stopped making the OEM diameter lightweight pulley.) It's a steep price for what you get out of it, which is a very small reclaimed gain down low. It feels like something for a few days, and then it's just the new normal.
As an upgrade... meh. But if you have to buy one anyway because your OEM crank is busted, then it's an opportunity. And if you can get a new one off eBay for $65, then it's a no brainer.
Buy the thing.
As an upgrade... meh. But if you have to buy one anyway because your OEM crank is busted, then it's an opportunity. And if you can get a new one off eBay for $65, then it's a no brainer.
Buy the thing.
Don't get the obx one.
When my buddy was doing his 3.5 swap a few years ago, his car would never run properly. It sounded as if it had jumped timing. He re-timed the motor 3 times and it still did the same thing. To make a long story short, it turned out to be the obx pulley he bought on eBay. It was bent ever so slightly and there were a few slight things that were off when holding the pulley side by side with a stock one. He pulled an OEM one from the junk yard, intalled it, and the car ran like a bat out of hell.
When my buddy was doing his 3.5 swap a few years ago, his car would never run properly. It sounded as if it had jumped timing. He re-timed the motor 3 times and it still did the same thing. To make a long story short, it turned out to be the obx pulley he bought on eBay. It was bent ever so slightly and there were a few slight things that were off when holding the pulley side by side with a stock one. He pulled an OEM one from the junk yard, intalled it, and the car ran like a bat out of hell.
How much does Nissan want for the OEM pulley brand new? That has to factor into the decision, right?
I tend to agree with Hustler's assessment on the cost/value proposition. And I bought a UR pulley brand new 3 years ago... just as a FYI for where my head is at.
I tend to agree with Hustler's assessment on the cost/value proposition. And I bought a UR pulley brand new 3 years ago... just as a FYI for where my head is at.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ralco-RZ-Pul...item4832858045
http://autospecialties.com/import.html
I have my OEM 03 crank pulley which might be different....I gave them my 1990 Maxima pulley which they used to build a new pulley in their existing Nissan line.....Call and have them build you either a UDP or an OEM lightweight pulley! Let me know if you need my assistance they're in the Houston Surrounding area...Pm me!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
Well after thinking about it and searching only two of the UDPs didn't have any negative reviews, the UR and DMS ones. I emailed DMS but never heard back and the last thing they posted on here was a group buy from 04.
So I found the UR one on ebay for $230 with free shipping and that also includes the two replacement belts. Much more than I planned on spending after initially finding the $65 one and the Cosmo racing one but those seemed to have some people who questioned the quality and I really need to be back on the road ASAP.
Thanks for all the help guys. CMax I would still be happy to donate my busted OEM to ASP if that would be helpful/wanted.
So I found the UR one on ebay for $230 with free shipping and that also includes the two replacement belts. Much more than I planned on spending after initially finding the $65 one and the Cosmo racing one but those seemed to have some people who questioned the quality and I really need to be back on the road ASAP.
Thanks for all the help guys. CMax I would still be happy to donate my busted OEM to ASP if that would be helpful/wanted.
Last edited by ffcbairn; Jan 11, 2012 at 11:28 AM.
I've had the UR on since 02', never a problem except the slight belt size difference. I haven't had to replace the blets since then either, so I haven't had either off and don't remember which one it was, but the factory size belt will fit... oh wait I do remember it was the power steering one the belt you have to have is slightly smaller than "factory" and it was kinda hard to get on. I think I had to bump the motor to get it on. Nevertheless, it was a big difference in weight when you held the two. It was like Rochester mentioned, you tell the difference the first few days... then it becomes the norm. My instructions at the time stated to pull negative battery cable for 24hrs (2000 Max) to reset the computer adaptives, as it has to relearn (or helps it) relearn the lighter crank.
So how did it bust? I wouldn't think rust since you don't live in a northern, salty, area. Was it running when it went?
So how did it bust? I wouldn't think rust since you don't live in a northern, salty, area. Was it running when it went?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
It busted by the rubber inside the pulley rotting away. Once it did that it began to spin like a coin does when it stops rolling and it threw the belts off. The power steering belt snapped while the regular belt just hopped off and didn't suffer too much damage.
That was why I ordered the UR pulley, it comes with the smaller replacement belts so it made it easier to make the decision.
Below you can see where the rubber has come off the pulley:
That was why I ordered the UR pulley, it comes with the smaller replacement belts so it made it easier to make the decision.
Below you can see where the rubber has come off the pulley:
wow, well good luck with swap. it is a fairly easy job, the nut holding your orig. crank on is a bish, and IIRC turns "right" not left to loosen. i think i had to bump the motor with the break over bar on the nut to get it off, because the motor would just turn, with the crank, as i tried to loosen. also remember to torque the nut on the crank back down to spec. and again IIRC there is a groove the crank has to sit it so make sure you get it in that groove so it sits flush back up against the motor.
I found some old write up I saved about changing one, maybe it will help you...
More UDP information
I installed a prototype ASP underdrive and here are some instructions I wrote for the job along with the belt lengths I used on my 2K2. If I had it to do again it would be a piece of cake!
1. If a lift if not available jack car up sufficiently to perform work under car. Use jack stands for safety.
2. Remove front passenger wheel and tire.
3. Remove passenger side plastic splash guard for easy access to pulley.
4. Loosen 12 mm locking bolt on power steering adjuster. Head of bolt is facing toward inner fender well, perpendicular to adjuster bolt and just to the rear of power steering pulley. Access to this bolt is best from under car.
5. Loosen 14 mm power steering pump rotator bolt on engine side of pump. It is accessible behind rear precat with a swivel or series of swivels and long extension from center of vehicle. The oil line to the oil filter is directly in line with this bolt.
6. Turn 12 mm adjuster bolt clockwise, as in tightening, to loosen belt. This bolt faces towards the ground and is located on bottom of adjuster. Use a long extension and swivel for access.
7. Loosen 14 mm ac/alternator tensioner pulley bolt. This bolt is in the center of the pulley and holds the pulley to the tensioner bracket. With bolt loose tensioner pulley is free to slide up and down on bracket within the limits of the 14 mm adjuster hex bolt. Turn 14 mm adjuster bolt counter clockwise to loosen belt and clockwise to tighten.
8. With both tensioners in the loose belt position, remove both belts.
9. Use a pneumatic impact wrench remove 19 mm center bolt holding crank pulley to shaft. Pulley is free to remove.
10. Use motor oil to lubricate ASP underdrive crank pulley seal ring on pulley hub. This insures lubrication to the crank seal when installed. Install pulley by hand locating keyway groove to key. Insure that pulley bottoms out on the crank shaft.
11. Reinstall crank bolt and torque to 140 ft/lbs. Locktite 242 thread sealer is recommended on threads.
12. For ease of belt installation, adjust both belt tensioners to insure plenty of free play to belt. Install Gates belt part number K040292 (or equivalent) on power steering and K060408 on ac/alternator. Insure both belts are properly positioned in grooves in all pulleys.
(I'm guessing on this one, I just tighten it until it felt right to me. Might have to refer to shop manual for belt tightening)
13. Tighten belts until belt has 1/4" movement at center of belt. Do not over tighten. Remember the power steering pump 12 mm bolt turns counter clockwise, as in loosening, to tighten belt.
14. Reinstall splash guard and wheel.
I installed a prototype ASP underdrive and here are some instructions I wrote for the job along with the belt lengths I used on my 2K2. If I had it to do again it would be a piece of cake!
1. If a lift if not available jack car up sufficiently to perform work under car. Use jack stands for safety.
2. Remove front passenger wheel and tire.
3. Remove passenger side plastic splash guard for easy access to pulley.
4. Loosen 12 mm locking bolt on power steering adjuster. Head of bolt is facing toward inner fender well, perpendicular to adjuster bolt and just to the rear of power steering pulley. Access to this bolt is best from under car.
5. Loosen 14 mm power steering pump rotator bolt on engine side of pump. It is accessible behind rear precat with a swivel or series of swivels and long extension from center of vehicle. The oil line to the oil filter is directly in line with this bolt.
6. Turn 12 mm adjuster bolt clockwise, as in tightening, to loosen belt. This bolt faces towards the ground and is located on bottom of adjuster. Use a long extension and swivel for access.
7. Loosen 14 mm ac/alternator tensioner pulley bolt. This bolt is in the center of the pulley and holds the pulley to the tensioner bracket. With bolt loose tensioner pulley is free to slide up and down on bracket within the limits of the 14 mm adjuster hex bolt. Turn 14 mm adjuster bolt counter clockwise to loosen belt and clockwise to tighten.
8. With both tensioners in the loose belt position, remove both belts.
9. Use a pneumatic impact wrench remove 19 mm center bolt holding crank pulley to shaft. Pulley is free to remove.
10. Use motor oil to lubricate ASP underdrive crank pulley seal ring on pulley hub. This insures lubrication to the crank seal when installed. Install pulley by hand locating keyway groove to key. Insure that pulley bottoms out on the crank shaft.
11. Reinstall crank bolt and torque to 140 ft/lbs. Locktite 242 thread sealer is recommended on threads.
12. For ease of belt installation, adjust both belt tensioners to insure plenty of free play to belt. Install Gates belt part number K040292 (or equivalent) on power steering and K060408 on ac/alternator. Insure both belts are properly positioned in grooves in all pulleys.
(I'm guessing on this one, I just tighten it until it felt right to me. Might have to refer to shop manual for belt tightening)
13. Tighten belts until belt has 1/4" movement at center of belt. Do not over tighten. Remember the power steering pump 12 mm bolt turns counter clockwise, as in loosening, to tighten belt.
14. Reinstall splash guard and wheel.
Well after thinking about it and searching only two of the UDPs didn't have any negative reviews, the UR and DMS ones. I emailed DMS but never heard back and the last thing they posted on here was a group buy from 04.
So I found the UR one on ebay for $230 with free shipping and that also includes the two replacement belts. Much more than I planned on spending after initially finding the $65 one and the Cosmo racing one but those seemed to have some people who questioned the quality and I really need to be back on the road ASAP.
Thanks for all the help guys. CMax I would still be happy to donate my busted OEM to ASP if that would be helpful/wanted.
So I found the UR one on ebay for $230 with free shipping and that also includes the two replacement belts. Much more than I planned on spending after initially finding the $65 one and the Cosmo racing one but those seemed to have some people who questioned the quality and I really need to be back on the road ASAP.
Thanks for all the help guys. CMax I would still be happy to donate my busted OEM to ASP if that would be helpful/wanted.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
Got my UDP. Just want to give an update. Got the pulley bolt off pretty easy using the breaker on floor/blip method. I have the UDP on and now is the part where I must loosen the power steering pump.
I HATE that 12mm bolt!
I HATE that 12mm bolt!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
I just don't understand what I'm not getting about the power steering pump. I loosened both 12 mm ones and the 14mm one in the back. The two 12mm piece was so loose it came off and the 14mm is loosened to the point that it is not threaded just sitting in there. Still I can't move the whole thing, not sure what I'm doing wrong here.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,245
The lightweight pulley is way lighter than the stock. Most mechanics will tell you don't waste your money to get it because it doesn't do anything performance wise. But I mean if your OEM pulley is broken it would be cheaper to replace it with a lightweight pulley.
My boy said his lightweight pulley cracked and it was from ebay. The other name brands light stillen are pretty pricey. I got mine from cosmoracing. But good luck
My boy said his lightweight pulley cracked and it was from ebay. The other name brands light stillen are pretty pricey. I got mine from cosmoracing. But good luck
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
Question, has anyone who installed the shorter power steering belt done so in combination with the aftermarket power steering hose. I believe that hose is keeping me from rotating down the power steering pump enough to fit on the new short belt.
The lightweight pulley is way lighter than the stock. Most mechanics will tell you don't waste your money to get it because it doesn't do anything performance wise. But I mean if your OEM pulley is broken it would be cheaper to replace it with a lightweight pulley.
My boy said his lightweight pulley cracked and it was from ebay. The other name brands light stillen are pretty pricey. I got mine from cosmoracing. But good luck
My boy said his lightweight pulley cracked and it was from ebay. The other name brands light stillen are pretty pricey. I got mine from cosmoracing. But good luck
Holding an OEM in on hand and an UDP or lightweight pulley in the other is the only thing I had to do too know I just took a load off my crank....and a lighter recip assy equals less friction more power....since I basically lighten the load the crank spins
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
From: Pullman, WA
FINISHED! So I ended up using the smaller replacement alternator/compressor belt and the original size power steering belt (using replacement I had bought and never used)
No idea how in the hell anyone has gotten that smaller belt on, I had the power steering pump all the way loosened and I still couldn't get the belt even halfway on the PSP pulley. The original size fit on nicely and is good and tight with the tensioner tightened down.
That was really what dragged the whole project out, I spent hours trying to get that smaller PS belt on before I gave up and used the original sized belt. The worst part was when I accidentally undid the PS tensioner too much and it came off, that was difficult to get back on.
My review: I agree it's not the biggest upgrade but it is definitely noticeable. If you put it in gear and let your foot off the clutch without giving it gas it doesn't struggle as much. Don't really notice as much driving but I am with CMax, all you have to do is hold one in each hand and you will know you made the right move. Even if you don't feel it driving, you've taken 5+ pounds right off the crank. That is 5 pounds per revolution of the engine, as long as durability is not a concern you can't argue with that.
No idea how in the hell anyone has gotten that smaller belt on, I had the power steering pump all the way loosened and I still couldn't get the belt even halfway on the PSP pulley. The original size fit on nicely and is good and tight with the tensioner tightened down.
That was really what dragged the whole project out, I spent hours trying to get that smaller PS belt on before I gave up and used the original sized belt. The worst part was when I accidentally undid the PS tensioner too much and it came off, that was difficult to get back on.
My review: I agree it's not the biggest upgrade but it is definitely noticeable. If you put it in gear and let your foot off the clutch without giving it gas it doesn't struggle as much. Don't really notice as much driving but I am with CMax, all you have to do is hold one in each hand and you will know you made the right move. Even if you don't feel it driving, you've taken 5+ pounds right off the crank. That is 5 pounds per revolution of the engine, as long as durability is not a concern you can't argue with that.
Last edited by ffcbairn; Jan 14, 2012 at 02:16 PM.
I remember using the Oem belt on one of those as well cause it was too short, but I couldn't remember with belt cause it was installed almost 9 years ago....(same set still installed and still no cracked belt ribs!
Because of you guys I'm suddenly finding myself wanting a UDP smh. I'm already not getting a lightweight flywheel so 'some' crank weight loss is still desired, even if it's negligible.
Too bad I don't have the same excuse as the OP
Too bad I don't have the same excuse as the OP
My crank pulley busted, since I have to replace it I figured I would look into an upgrade/lightened one.
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I found a few but not sure if any one is better than another.
Personally for price I thought the OBX Racing one is not bad, I can get it off ebay.
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I found a few but not sure if any one is better than another.
Personally for price I thought the OBX Racing one is not bad, I can get it off ebay.
I would need a stock pulley. We can make one or 30 whatever you need.
Performance Machine Works ( ASP )
DBA Auto Specialties
Po Box 2300
Conroe TX 77305
936-588-3117
sales@aspracing.com
Try these.
http://www.radioactivemotorsports.co...ize-_p_36.html
He sold me his Unorthodox Light weight pulley before he started making these.
http://www.radioactivemotorsports.co...ize-_p_36.html
He sold me his Unorthodox Light weight pulley before he started making these.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
I've had the UR for many years now with no problems.
Pulleys are one part where I'm very leery of inexpensive versions. If using something other than UR, I would make sure you've got a few people who have used them before to verify durability and performance.
Pulleys are one part where I'm very leery of inexpensive versions. If using something other than UR, I would make sure you've got a few people who have used them before to verify durability and performance.
If you need a UDP made for your VQ30DE-K, same as a VQ30DE, you can send in a stock pulley and they can make 1 or 30 of them.....here's the email reply they sent me:
I would need a stock pulley. We can make one or 30 whatever you need.
Performance Machine Works ( ASP )
DBA Auto Specialties
Po Box 2300
Conroe TX 77305
936-588-3117
sales@aspracing.com
I would need a stock pulley. We can make one or 30 whatever you need.
Performance Machine Works ( ASP )
DBA Auto Specialties
Po Box 2300
Conroe TX 77305
936-588-3117
sales@aspracing.com
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