They're good. I use them exclusively. KYB mounts are crap. But I like their struts. Go figure.

 

I should take a pic of the condition of the oe stuff the garage put back on after the coilover failed you would rtfotf the front mount is so bad the shaft moves around in it and the rears have boot pieces stuck inbetween the shaft and the tube going inside and now the car sits like 5" higher and bounces like its riding on egg shaped wheels

 

I've seen worse

 

I'll be replacing all 4 struts and mounts on my 99 MAX when they get delivered this week. Will I need another alignment? I just had an alignment done last fall when I replaced the LCAs, outer tie rods, and sway bar end links.

 

Yes, you'll definitely need an alignment.

 

I just got a set of d2 coilovers to replace a set of eibach springs on blown stock shocks. What difference will I feel?

I'm also replacing in the same installation the following.

Control arms with ES bushings/Moog ball joints
ES sway bar bushings
ROCA sway bar endlinks
Moog tie rod ends

I hear so much squeaking and creaking and every bump feels like my dash is going to break off

 

I've ran into a set of Megan Racing Coilovers, I was wondering if they're worth it. I've heard megan racing springs aren't that great so that leaves questions about their Coilovers.

But as my car goes, I would love to keep my Titanium wheels, which obviously are 17"s.

I would like to know whats the best drop (which will probably be mild) for someone who lives in the NYC area where pot holes are a dime a dozen.

And at some point i would like to get a Stillen classic lip, so i would have to factor with the lip and without the lip.

Also I don't like how factory wheels look when the car is dropped, they look sunken inwards, which spacers would be best to run?

 

I'm going to lower my 02 Max with H-Tech springs, I currently have KYB GR-2s, do I need to cut my bump stops in the front and/or rear?

 

Yes, first rung in the front and half the stop in the rear.

 

I am looking to buy new control arms since i was told that the bushings on mine are shot. Also, my right sway bar links can be hand moved and it looks like the hole on the lca that it attaches to is stripped. What brand should I buy> I dont have a press to press out the bushings and put in es ones. Also the moogs have r-series and problem solver which are $45 more. Are raysbestos a good brand? Should I get a cheaper brand and pay to press in es bushings and a better quality ball joint?

 

Hey man I got the Tein SA coilovers and they ride great during normal and freeway cruising. But when Im in boost the car squats and rear and front will bounce too much making the car sway all over the road. I even got the stiffer springs 9kg front and 8kg rear (come with 7kg front and 6kg rear) with the damping on FULL HARD they are way way too soft for performance driving. With the Teins you cant adjust the preload and height separetly. The more you lower the car the more it uncompresses the spring and the softer it gets (more bounce). I was thinking about going with BC coilovers. they come with 9kg front and 7kg rear. I was thinking about going 10kg front and 10kg rear and order them like that. I need something more performance geared. I mean if I was all motor and just wanted to chill out and cruise then the Teins would be GREAT. But I plan on tracking the car and having some weekend fun....and having that thing swerve all over the place is dangerous. And, YES, they were aligned on a machine at a shop too. What has been your experience with BC coilover installs, if you've done any. Not trying to spend no $2k on no JICs......

 

Are u sure u got tein street advanced coilovers? Cause it sounds like u got the tein basic. The street advanced adjusts the height without reducing spring travel and the basic does not.

Either u got the models mixed up or ur adjusting them the wrong way. Post a pic of ur coilovers or a link to the model you got.

 

Hey DJ, what would be common signs that LCA bushings have gone substantially bad? I suspect them to be bad, but am not sure how much play when pried on is acceptable.

As far as I know, most suspension bushings and components are all original oem, with the odd oem spec replacement, ball joint, end links etc... Car has 220k kilometers, and my plans depending on a few things, is to do a whole front end refreshment soon to precede a suspension upgrade, of either a spring/strut combo or coils.

Should be getting an extra set of used LCA's to clean up, and press in some es bushings, moog ball joints, as well as some es sway bar bushings and tourqe mount inserts to install.

 

When turning full right. I hear a creaking moaning noise from the right wheel. Is it suspension related or something else? Only happens on extreme right turns all the way locked.

 

I do control arm renovation services..basically a core swap type thing. Let me know if interested. I only do it for ES bushings/Moog Ball joints.

Otherwise, just get decent aftermarket replacements - should be $50-$75 per arm. Let Raybestos stick with brake pads.

 

BC's are great, no issues. And the fact that they DO allow for separate height/dampening will be your saving grace. IMO keep front spring rate the same but firm up the rear to 9kg. The springs SHOULD be interchangeable with TEIN/BC so see which stiffness works best for you on the BC.

 

Aside from the power steering leak which is known to eat through the front passenger LCA bushing, just general usage. You're in canada which sees tremendous changes in temperature + salty roads. You probably won't feel anything specific unless they're completely shot, but you will feel a difference when replaced.

 

will need to replace front driver side axle, what else should I be getting beside the axle? car is a 03 max AT.

tranny fluid? any seals or gaskets needed?

thanks

 

I feel ignored x2

 

Nope the street advance do not allow you to adjust height without unloading the spring. It even says that on their website. That sucks....thats a goofy design. Why would you do that? It's all good I ordered some TDMI Coilovers anyway. Gonna sell the Tein's and EDFC.



Per Teins Website on the Tein Street Advance......

"Ride Height Adjustable -Vehicle ride height adjustable via a threaded shock body and adjustable spring seat. The threaded sleeve is welded to the actual shock body and then Zinc coated for added protection. TEIN engineers have performed vigorous testing to ensure the best possible position and range of the spring seat to ensure the most adjustability. Aluminum spring seats are utilized to reduce ceasing of spring seat to threaded body, and for improved durability."

Now the Tein Flex says this:

"Full Length Adjustable -Vehicle ride height and spring pre-load can be adjusted independently. Ride height is adjustable in two ways: a. adjustable shock length, and b. adjustable spring seat. a.The lower mounting bracket can be adjusted, thus changing the overall length of the shock, and therefore altering the vehicle's ride height. This also allows the user to determine suspension travel and droop. b.The adjustable spring seat allows for independent adjustment of spring pre-load without affecting vehicle ride height. Aluminum spring seats are utilized to reduce ceasing of spring seat to threaded body, and for improved durability."

 

Control arm bushing, sway bar link. Sure it's not just power steering pump moaning?

 

Just axle seal if you want to. Pain to replace it and seated properly. Plenty of people leave it as-is.

 

do you mean not replace the axle at all?

or the axle seal?

 

Do I need to replace the lca? What brand would you recommend that cost 50 to 70 dollars

 

The obvious will apply here. Ask someone to turn your steering wheel while you go have a look to find out what's making the noise.

 

 

Hi djfrestyl.....

i am ready to install my BC coiover with help of friends is it possible to make the height adjustment on the Coilovers before you bolt them on the car or do you have to install it then let it set for few days then lower them?

also what other part do you recommend that i replace while i am at it i am rocking stock suspension both front ball joint were replaced like 5k miles ago and LCA were good.

many thanks

 

Coilovers don't need to settle. Set your preload and ride height when installing.

Sway bar links and bushings are a good thing to do. Subframe collars as well.

 

How often do shocks/struts need to be changed? I'm not lowered yet, but I hear creaking from rear passenger side whenever I go over a speed hump, or hit a dip in the road. I've never put any on this car in the 3 yrs I've owned this one.

 

Too many variables to identify a specific timeline - anywhere from 60k-150k.

If you're hearing creaking in the rear I'll bet your strut has sucked part of your shredded dustboot into the piston seal.

 

So as of now since I'm going to lower it anyway, I'll just stick it out until I decide if I want to go coil overs or springs.

 

Hey dj, I'm in the midst of trying to pick a new suspension set-up to install in the near future. My goal is to even up the wheel gap, aswell as freshen up the handling, since everything is original, while maintaining a relatively stock ride comfort. I'm also doing every bushing, link, tie rod, ball joint etc... And SFC's.

I'm torn between a spring and strut combo or just doing coilovers, obviously Im on a budget or it would be an easy decision of the coils.

For the spring strut combo, I would most likely go with H&R's/GR-2's as suggested but found a combo on eBay for around $600 shipped that comes with the vogtlands instead. What's your opinion on that set-up?

Also there are a set of Megan EZ-street coils shipped for under $800, what's your experience with the quality of those?

If you were me on a budget

 

Found my answer

 

To do this properly, you're looking at at least 800-1000 including installation costs.

Setting these factors as constant:
cost (approximately)
comfort (approximately)

It boils down to this:
Coilovers: Much better handling. Less longevity. Requires more maintenance.
Spring/Strut: Slightly less handling capability than coilovers. More 'set it and forget it' setup. Will last longer than coilovers.

So are you the "I don't want to deal with it" type? Or are you the tinkerer that can put in the time to maintain your coilovers and are willing to give up the longevity in return for better handling? It sounds to me you're more of a spring/strut guy based on your comments bolded above.

 

djfrestyl, after installing 4 struts myself, I found my ride height differs among 4 wheel wells (ground to the top). They are all within 1/2 inch. Is this correctable? if yes, do you have the procedure?

 

Struts only? Or springs + struts? What other parts did you replace?

I wouldn't worry about it as long as everything is aligned properly, spring is sitting on perch cleanly, etc. That's the only way to 'correct' it.

 

Just installed 4 struts/shocks and dustboots. That is it. Everything else is reused. I made before-marks and efforts to align everything with the old imprints. I guess it is pre-existence then.

 

Alright well, apparently you know a thing or too about this... You assumed right. Lol

I was leaning towards coils for the slightly better ride quality, and the height adjustment since I HATE the uneven stock look. But, since I have no intention of slamming it and the the vogtlands or H&R's are fairly even/modest drop's, I don't think the coils are necessary.

Not to mention longevity is a big thing for me, I don't wanna be rebuilding struts.

I'm pretty capable myself, along with the org as my savior, so I would probly be doing the install myself. I'm also Canadian, so my price for that set-up is probly a little more expensive. Where would you recommend picking these up from?

 

I pretty much buy all my parts from Amazon. I have a Prime account so shipping is free and delivery is practically immediate lol. Prices are generally low enough that it's not worth shopping around to save 1-5%.

 

Installing my rears (Illumina drop kit ILK246) I have two nuts as part of the rear kit (one larger one smaller) and I think they both thread at the top of the strut, but the OEM nut was one larger one.

Stock 99SE, should I double-nut the thing? It looks like I have plenty of room to do so. I'll try and get a pic for you (I called you on the phone) but I've got minimal coverage here in hickville, Idaho