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djfrestyl's DEFINITIVE "I HAVE A SUSPENSION QUESTION" THREAD!!!

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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:58 PM
  #681  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
They're poly. And price differential is nominal. I always recommend ES sway bar bushings.

Correct, 23mm. ES 7.5125 is the model number.
I'm going to go with 9.5159 so that I can grease them to keep from squeaking.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=9.5159
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 04:17 AM
  #682  
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RTA bushings are bigger. Instead of pushing using a C-clamp, try a bolt though the middle and pull it out. IMO it works better than pushing to remove bushings.

Oh, and have hacksaw blades ready.
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #683  
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Originally Posted by DjHackStyle
I know retarded price on the rears. I have kyb front dust boots and they suck but i guess it does the job. U do hear them crunching on speed bumps.
if that's all they do is scrunch, I can live with that.

My stockers are still there, but the very bottom of them is pretty well disintegrated. Are they supposed to adhere/snap on to the spring perch? I know on my GP, my stock ones snap around the bottom for a good full seal.
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #684  
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They don't just crunch. I've seen some groan.

The OEM's will link into the top of the perch and will hang.
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 08:27 PM
  #685  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
They don't just crunch. I've seen some groan.

The OEM's will link into the top of the perch and will hang.
Yea i have some groaning too, no idea what it is.
Old Jun 18, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #686  
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Hey guys any idea on the name of the tool to remove tre...?
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 05:16 AM
  #687  
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Assume 'tre' = Tie Rod Ends. And assume you are referring to Inners, as outers need no special tool.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uller/_/N-2654

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...ller-1752.html

Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 648692 Small Tie Rod Puller: Home Improvement Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 648692 Small Tie Rod Puller: Home Improvement
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:01 AM
  #688  
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Yes the outer,i got the slotted nut 19mm and the one behind the rod 22Mm loose...car has 187***mi.so both of the rubber bushings on them are shot...but i cant get enough torque with the 13mm on the iner to loosen the outer tie rod end(tre) :0 If that makes sense...unless im doing it wrong which i think is the probable cause...lol
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:40 AM
  #689  
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Heat. Start with a small propane bottle. then pb blaster while warm so it can creep in. Let that sit over night or a few days. Heat again. Then a hammer to knock it around.
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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Two vice grips - one on the tie rod to prevent it from spinning, the other on the OTR itself.
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 01:16 PM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by AWeb80
Heat. Start with a small propane bottle. then pb blaster while warm so it can creep in. Let that sit over night or a few days. Heat again. Then a hammer to knock it around.
Well i really hope it don't come down to this... thorch ...

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Two vice grips - one on the tie rod to prevent it from spinning, the other on the OTR itself.
Thanks for the tip djfrestyl...tried it and they spun like a record :laugh. ...and a special thanks to all those who make this (.ORG) Possible.

Ok to those of you who might know,before i take the car to get the alignment, should i do my brakes first? Or it doesn't matter..their just worn out it has nothing to do with the job i performed (o.tre)..

Last edited by NmexMAX; Jun 19, 2013 at 01:54 PM.
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 01:54 PM
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brakes don't matter regarding an alignment
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 02:10 PM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
brakes don't matter regarding an alignment
Thank You i taught so...just wanted to make sure...well 4more bolts a lil bit of grease,put on the tires and of to the shop to get an alignment...OuterTieRod $35per,ceramic pads $45(ONLY FRONT)=$90 with Tax if that...alignment $60 should be..so $150 total...some elbow grease and my fellow members...priceless..lol It makes me want to vomit just thinking how much the quote at the dealer would have been..
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 06:01 PM
  #694  
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Is there an install thread for the Control arm poly bushings? Mine are here and I plan on doing them friday night. I have done CA bushings in my GP and it was a bit of a pain but I'm sure I can figure it out. But any input would be appreciated.
Old Jun 21, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #695  
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hi djfrestyl..

finalley lowerd the car about a week ago using bc coilover the car is setting 25 inches from the ground to the fender all around... the problem now is the ride is harsh i tried alot of setting even the softest setting seems harsh, if the roads are smooth it drives smooth but when it comes to bumbs and little craks on the road u can feel it all. i am positive i get it installed properly the only thing i skipped was the preload i didn't mess with it, the spring are firm not moving around no noises/bottoming out just harsh very stiff... should i set the preload to 5mm like bc recommend.. also alignment was done it feels little bit better.. thanks man any help is appreciated
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 05:22 AM
  #696  
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You answered your own question
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 06:31 AM
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So my new moog strut mount bearings were bad

Can freely spin only one bearing by hand, the other binds up.

Replaced with OEM and no more clicking/creaking when turning the wheel at low speeds or stopped.
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #698  
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Not the first time I've heard of this - but glad you got it squared away.
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 07:42 AM
  #699  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
So my new moog strut mount bearings were bad

Can freely spin only one bearing by hand, the other binds up.

Replaced with OEM and no more clicking/creaking when turning the wheel at low speeds or stopped.
How much did they cost you?
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 07:55 AM
  #700  
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OEM strut bearings are roughly $14 IIRC.
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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15 each from Nissanpartsasap. Plus 10 or so for shipping...list is 21 each. I just paid list from a local dealer that had 'em in stock
Old Jun 28, 2013 | 06:40 PM
  #702  
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I looked through here and think you suggested the answer, but I want to make sure.

I just replaced my Tokico Illumina front struts (after about 80k miles on ****ty roads, my right one finally gave out so I replaced them both). Replaced the upper strut mounts as well. Now, my steering basically gets "stuck" in whatever direction I last turned, and it pops/bangs when turning the wheel at low speeds. Almost looks like the spring is hanging, but I can't tell for sure. Checked the spring seat on the left side, and OUT is facing out. The right side was the same when I replaced it, but I didn't have time to take that one off the other day as well. It's really hard to tell where the sound is coming from, but in the last couple of days it seems it's gotten worse. Now my gas pedal shakes like a bastard when driving down the road as well. I'll check the right spring seat tomorrow or Sunday, but could it be anything else?
Old Jun 28, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #703  
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what brand strut mounts did you use? Did you re-use or get new strut mount bearings?
Old Jun 28, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
what brand strut mounts did you use? Did you re-use or get new strut mount bearings?
Bought 'em from O'Reilly (new). The originals had been destroyed (rubber separated, etc). I think they were Moogs, and they included the bearing. I re-inspected those when I took the strut off as well, nothing was out of place.
Old Jun 30, 2013 | 08:53 AM
  #705  
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Something is not installed properly. Hard to tell whether it's the spring not sitting right or in the right orientation, strut mount, strut bearing, upper perch, lower perch, spring isolator, etc.

Originally Posted by jeisai
I looked through here and think you suggested the answer, but I want to make sure.

I just replaced my Tokico Illumina front struts (after about 80k miles on ****ty roads, my right one finally gave out so I replaced them both). Replaced the upper strut mounts as well. Now, my steering basically gets "stuck" in whatever direction I last turned, and it pops/bangs when turning the wheel at low speeds. Almost looks like the spring is hanging, but I can't tell for sure. Checked the spring seat on the left side, and OUT is facing out. The right side was the same when I replaced it, but I didn't have time to take that one off the other day as well. It's really hard to tell where the sound is coming from, but in the last couple of days it seems it's gotten worse. Now my gas pedal shakes like a bastard when driving down the road as well. I'll check the right spring seat tomorrow or Sunday, but could it be anything else?
Old Jul 11, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #706  
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Bump!
Old Jul 12, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #707  
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djfrestyl..

just wanted to say thanks i finalley got a chance to adjust the preload on my bc coilover and the car is driving lots better the front one were preloaded too much from the factory causing me very stiff ride.. thank you
Old Jul 13, 2013 | 05:02 AM
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 07:45 AM
  #709  
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I finally got my lower control arms w/ ES bushings installed and all i can say is what a job!! 650 ft lbs of torque wasnt enough for the ball joint nut. Torch and cutting was involved.

Anyways just for ppls future reference i want let everyone know the silver rear part of the control arm must be on the correct arm, the left and right are different, dont mix them up like i did. I couldnt bolt the arms on to the car and spent much time figuring it out but the removing of the bushings and swapping them around wasnt too bad. Lesson learned.
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 07:49 AM
  #710  
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Glad it worked out.

Don't know what kind of space-age metal your ball joint nut was - or how many years your car was parked in an ocean, but damn that sounds like a pain.
Old Jul 21, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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Dj theres a 4th gen guy who i think need some of your guidance its the new suspension thread

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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 02:59 PM
  #712  
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I think he's got it figured out
Old Jul 21, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
I think he's got it figured out
I never seen a strut mount seperate like that

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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #714  
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OEM strut boot

I'm planning on replacing my struts with KYB-GR2's, stock springs, Moog strut mounts and OEM strut boots. I'm having a hard time finding the OEM strut boots online. Does anyone have a part number or know where I can get them the cheapest? Also, none of this has ever been replaced and I have about 180,000 miles on the car. Is there anything else I should replace besides the strut, mount and bellow? BTW, I have a 99 maxima and just noticed this is in the 5th gen forum so not sure if there is a similar thread in the 4th gen forum?

Thanks!
Old Jul 22, 2013 | 05:51 AM
  #715  
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Part numbers (first half of them) are 54050 and 55240. One is front, one is rear. You need two of each.

www.nissanpartsasap.com - drill down to front/rear suspension and you will find them. Often called "BUMPER ASSY BOUND" or something like that.

What you mentioned is necessary for 'core suspension'. You could always add in sway bar bushings (ES), sway bar link (Moog) to the job. Sky is the limit from there...next steps would be subframe collars, control arm bushings, etc etc etc.

No similar thread but the concepts are all the same. Part numbers vary slightly, of course (but not for the boot part #'s above)

Last edited by djfrestyl; Jul 22, 2013 at 05:56 AM.
Old Jul 22, 2013 | 08:22 AM
  #716  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Part numbers (first half of them) are 54050 and 55240. One is front, one is rear. You need two of each.

www.nissanpartsasap.com - drill down to front/rear suspension and you will find them. Often called "BUMPER ASSY BOUND" or something like that.

What you mentioned is necessary for 'core suspension'. You could always add in sway bar bushings (ES), sway bar link (Moog) to the job. Sky is the limit from there...next steps would be subframe collars, control arm bushings, etc etc etc.

No similar thread but the concepts are all the same. Part numbers vary slightly, of course (but not for the boot part #'s above)
Thank you kind sir! Yes I also will be replacing sway bar endlinks with Moog, and ES control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. Just need to order the struts and boots and will then have everything to start.

Thanks again!
Old Jul 22, 2013 | 08:36 AM
  #717  
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K9786 is your strut mount part too, just in case you don't have that yet
Old Jul 22, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #718  
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Originally Posted by metalgod3082
Thank you kind sir! Yes I also will be replacing sway bar endlinks with Moog, and ES control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. Just need to order the struts and boots and will then have everything to start.

Thanks again!
Happy to help. You should consider buying a spare tire from me to thank me for my help

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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 11:02 AM
  #719  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
K9786 is your strut mount part too, just in case you don't have that yet
Yep got the Moog strut mount already from rockauto, thx!

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Happy to help. You should consider buying a spare tire from me to thank me for my help

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I'm unable to see your sig (possibly because i'm at work). I already have a full size spare. What exactly are you selling? Wheel well cover?
Old Jul 22, 2013 | 11:27 AM
  #720  
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http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...tion-sale.html

Works only on donut spares, but check it out anyway.



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