I will be replacing the passenger side mount as I have it in hand already. So if the mounts aint clunking/knocking then that means theres something esle wrong huh.

 

Yes. Possibly control arm bushing. Have you ever had a power steering leak?

 

Ive had the car for about 10 months now. No power steering leak. So how hard is it to replace the lower control arm bushings?

 

Generally you just replace the entire arm. They're about $60 for a decent one, and includes a new ball joint.

Only reason to replace the bushing is if you're pressing in ES poly bushings, and then you'd still need a ball joint.

 

And what would be a decent brand?

 

Ok, so I spent my Saturday afternoon doing the struts, and I'm glad I did. It took me a while because I was taking my time, but I did it. Not a hard job, but compressing the springs seemed to take the longest time. For anyone doing this themselves, an impact wrench is a MUST. There is no way I would compress the springs without one. That would have made the job a lot longer using just a socket wrench. Another annoying thing was no matter which way I turned the spring compressors, they would either A) get in the way of the top part of the strut and make it hard to get the top bolt on, or B) the spring compressor bolt would be too close to the spring and I couldn't get my impact socket on there. I had to fight with it, but I got there. Each strut took less and less time when I got into the groove.

Needless to say, my struts were SHOT (all 4), even though they passed the "bounce" test. Replaced them with KYB's and they seem to be working fine. I used Moog strut mounts and OEM dust boots for the front and back. Like Dj said, I was able to reuse everything else. Only thing I read when looking in the FSM was that I was NOT supposed to reuse the nut on the lower rear struts at the bottom. Not really sure if this is a big deal or not, but the nut looks fine to me. Should I order some new ones and replace them?

The car def handles better and it doesn't sound like my tires are coming off when I hit a bump. I forgot how this thing was supposed to handle! I wish I had kept my Potenzas instead of the Turanzas I have now. Next up will be lower control arms, inner tie rods, and passenger motor mount (I think that is where my other little noises are coming from) Plus I can see that they are shot as well. I didn't know my inner tie rods were shot until I replaced the outers.

Thanks to Mr. Dj and his suspension thread. I just saved some big time cash. Now for an alignment...

 

I have a Question. My 5.5 gen is lowered on tein ss & im currently buying parts to fix my front end. I know alot of guys here went from oem endlinks to moog endlinks. I've been doing some research & I've read that longer sway bar endlinks are better for lowered maximas to keep the sway bar in the proper position which eliminates binding. Then I came along a tread on here saying some 4th gen guys use shorter endlinks. Have anyone else here used longer endlinks on their 5th gen maximas? On the ES site they offer adjustable universal sway bar endlinks in different sizes. Im interested in knowing what is best for lowered maximas.

 

Moog makes a nice control arm. Others would be your typical aftermarket brands - Beck/Arnley, ACDelco, etc.

 

I reuse that bolt every time. Not sure why the FSM says to replace.

Happy to help. These are the types of experiences that make a thread like this worth it. Great job!

 

I don't have personal experience with adjustable or longer sway bar links in the 5th gen, but something doesn't make sense to me:

If the car is lowered, it means the control arm sits higher, which means the sway bar is in a heightened position. In order to dial the sway bar position back to where it originally was, shouldn't the sway bar link be shorter than OEM? The control arm dictates the position of the sway bar, not the other way around.

Maybe I'm missing something. Can you link to some of these threads you've been reading?

 

Hey dj,

I have a line on a mint 01 auto for a parts car that has a bunch of new parts on it, and I was just wondering if some parts will be compatible with my 02 SE 6mt.

Im mainly concerned about the steering rack/tie rods, and front struts?

 

Struts will fit however the mounting bracket for ABS line will be slightly different - nothing a zip tie cant fix.

I'm 90% sure the rack will fit, and 95% sure the tie rods will fit.

 

Ok I figured, thanks dj

 

 

The steering racks for all 5th gets on the parts diagram from courtesy nissan shows the same part number, but there are a few different priced ones?

Hopefully they are the same.

 

Nissan part system is messy. They have multiple versions/iterations of the same part which are often differently priced.

 

Yah I'm just gonna go for it, I'm picking up an 01 with new struts, tie rods and control arm, good summer and winter tires for $500. I was just pricing all of those parts out (except winters, but I'll need em next winter), and once I pick this car clean I'll get $250 for scrap, can't go wrong.

If that steering rack will work, I'm really gonna be happy.

 

Part it out in the classifieds youll make some money on a few parts

 

I thought of that, but I'm up in the great white north (Canada), and I'm not into shipping.

 

Can u please post a pic of the correct way to install TDMI Bump Steer Kit. The oem outer tie rod goes on top of the spindle. The TDMI Bump Steer Kit goes under the spindle as the correct way according to TDMI pics. My mechanic installed the bump steer kit. After installation the car has excessive camber issues. Its unstable plus the steering wheel doesn't come back to the neutral position. Please help. Thanks

 

Plus my bump steer kit is blue. Every other pic I see they are red. Thanks

 

I would reach out to TDM on the color, not sure about that.

This is the correct way to install (pics stolen from clintb3astwood's thread):




It should definitely be installed UNDER the knuckle. This is to aleviate the severe angle on the tie rod end when aggressively lowered.

 

Those are the pix i was referring to. Thanks.
That is exactly what I thought.
& That is exactly what how my mechanic installed it.
Maybe because im not aggressively lowered im mildly lowered. Hmmm

 

I think the real question is if the mechanic understands the reason and usage of these. My bet is "no." He likely just installed them based on standard protocol, not being educated on what these are and their purpose.

If you're mildly lowered - then chances are you can get away from normal ITR's. But if with the mild drop you're still experiencing serious bump steer, then you need these.

And if so, they should be installed in the fashion they were designed.

 

Wuz up djfreestyl,
Well after the suspension overhaul car has been good only problem is on the rear end when i rock the vehicle back and forth there's what i would consider more movement that should be there.
Any tips on replacing and removing parts on the rear suspension? I've done the rear struts im more interested on the lateral link i think its called...thanks

 

Yeah he doesn't understand. He's a regular nissan mechanic. I Dont think im lowered enough for this mod.

 

Thanks for the info. U r a suspension guru.

 

This doesn't quite make sense. You are rocking the car back and forth as in - forward and back? If so, lateral link does not come into play.

The only time lateral link comes into play is when you are rocking the car up and down. Not even side to side.

In terms of rear suspension parts. 9.5 times out of 10, struts are the culprit. The other 5% of the time, its the trailing arm bushings. I've honestly never seen a single car that NEEDS a lateral link replacement.

Also, lets talk about how the car actually HANDLES. Any issues seen there?

 

What are you lowered on?

Happy to help!

 

Sorry for the confusion i ment side to side,i can hear a like clicking noise that seems to be from the shims on the calipers while i rock it side to side on the corner of the rear bumper.


Car feels very grounded and stiff, bumpsteer issues gone along with any other noises that it had,no more going over imperfections on the pavement and have me feel like I'll loose control.

While simulating the "me running late for work scenario" and taking my usual lane down 360 hwy the first time after installation ,it was amazing ,i never had felt so satisfied

 

So - this leads be to believe its a brake noise issue, and suspension is tight as possible.

 

It might be,but the noise wasn't my concern since it can only be replicated by a pretty good rockin motion not in normal driving conditions.I have not heard it in the cabin.

The side to side motion its my concern because it take little effort to get the motion going. I'll try to post a vid when my phone charges a bit more

 

You might just be pushing too hard and assuming something is wrong when there isn't, but post the video and I'll have a look.

 

It was impossible for me to hold the phone and video while trying to replicate my concerns, but once again
I think you're exactly right, when i got under there and started rockin it there was no movement on the suspension components front or rear, it was the walls of my worn out tires the only thing that gives movement.

 

Im on Tein SS. 245/40/18. Just to even out the wheel gap.

 

My bump steer kit is blue & it doesn't have that bolt next to the red part as in the pic. It's one solid piece. Is the red one adjustable where the bolt is cause mine isn't.

 

Ok, I have done some reading and it seems I need to ask the gurus on here. My 2003 maxima is in need of some front end work to stop the shaking it's driving me insane.

My passenger side lower control arm is destroyed and I just figured while I'm there, I might as well take care of the entire suspension parts. Anyway I decided to purchase every bushing available then do the motor mounts later. So here is my question, if I purchase the moog lower control arm, http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...=MOOG-RK620355 I do I still have to purchase the bushing set http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118

(trying to avoid having to press the old ones out). Tried to chat with the guys there but they don't seem to know exactly what's going on.

Secondly, should I be worried by the sway bar end links? If I don't how much total time would I need to complete the entire task. I am not doing the rear trailing arms bushings yet till I get a sway bar first.

I was looking for this thread and for some reason I couldn't find it. Had a massive head cold yesterday so I was home sick so maybe that's the reason. Anyway thanks DJ!

 

^^ Your links aren't working, so let me generalize.

With control arms, there are generally two approaches. What you're eluding to is a combination of both approaches, which is not advisable. What people do is one of two things:
1. Replace entire control arm with a quality aftermarket replacement such as Moog or any of the other respected aftermarket parts makers. These new arms already have fresh bushings and ball joint installed. Simple plug and play/bolt on replacement. This is the more common approach. Approx cost is $50-$60 per arm, + labor.

2. Replace the current shot bushings in your current control arm with Energy Suspension bushings. And replace the ball joint your current arm with a new ball joint. Approx cost is $60-$70 for the bushing set (which includes both sides), then another $30-$45 per ball joint, then labor. This is the less common approach. You would either have downtime while you 'refurb' your current arms, or you would have to get a set of donor control arms, refurb them, THEN replace your current. You'd have to find someone with a press.

ES bushings are fantastic. The additional effort for the bushings are worth it to some people, and not worth it to others. In the end it's your call.

If you're replacing control arms, you might as well replace sway bar links. You have to partially disconnect the link to get to the arm, so one more nut to remove won't hurt anything.

 

DJ I think you got exactly what I was saying and I used the mobile app and I don't know if I messed something up. The link to the moog control arm is
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...=MOOG-RK620355

and the link to the bushings is
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.3118

Which option do you think is better, I know second option is more of a pain but is it really worth the extra downtime?

In addition to that do you think replacing the tie rods would be beneficial? I was thinking of getting rid of the car but she still has some fight to her so I would like to keep it for as long as possible.

Again thanks for all the help.

 

Let's lay it out in terms of doing both arms.

Option 1: Moog Control arms.
- Price btw is way too high. You should be able to get these for $60 each.
- Assume labor is roughly $75/hour. Shops would probably charge an hour per side to swap out.
- Comes out to roughly $300, parts and labor.

Option 2: ES bushings
- ES Bushing set: $60 for both arms
- Moog Ball joints: $40 each (need 2)
- Assume labor is roughly $75 per hour. I'm thinking for press work, a shop would charge 1.5 hours per arm to press out the bushings and ball joint, and install.
- Comes out to roughly $350, parts and labor.

So...for an additional $50, and assuming you can find a shop that can do press work, same day, the ES is well worth it.

There are alternative approaches though. You can find a cheap pair of busted arms, have a local machine shop press them out, you can refurb them with some paint, pop in the new bushings, and swap in the new arms if you're a DIY guy. Or you can do the same but have a shop swap the arms. Just a matter of preference. The hard part with ES is finding a shop to do the press work - and potential downtime. That is why some choose the Moog arm route.

Ok, I rambled on enough. Hope this helps to provide the info you need to make a decision that works for you.